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Vol. XXXIV. No. 1 



JANUARY, 1922 




Playing Carck will 

Increase Your Small wares Sales 

Sports Series 

Most people who are in your store 
from day to day use Playing Cards. 



e it easy for them to buy from 



by a prominent display of our 



ium-priced cards. 



have bsen manufacturing these 

Consolith Series 


s in Canada for the trade for over 


30 years. 






On request, we will t send you 

Patience Cards 

our latest show card, which will 
assist vou in vour displays. 


^■"'Lithographing and Manufacturing Co Lttl. 

Montreal, Canada. 




k n " * — = 


Carpets, Oilcloths ,Linoleums and Draperies 

for Spring 1922 

We have on hand now in such goods, the 
largest and most complete range it has ever been 
our privilege to offer to the trade. 

Our showing comprises the very newest de- 
signs and colorings and we make it a point to 
see that our values are not bettered anywhere. 

You may see samples with our representative, 
or a letter will bring them by return, or a visit 
to our warehouse would pay you well" 

John M. Garland, Son 
& Co., Ltd. 

Ottawa - Canada 

Wholesale Dry Goods 









DAWEL /Scotland 





Guaranteed absolutely fast to&un cmclhtos/j. 

The Colour element in these \vbrld-Knovm E\brics 
is indestructible, and the finished product -from 
coal tar anthracene to colour and from raw material 
to finished fabric - is our own throughout . 





A Bulletin 
of Values 
For You in — 


Our travellers are now 
on the road with a full 
range of samples. We 
solicit through them your 
esteemed orders. 

Letter orders filled 
daily with prompt des- 

We shall be pleased to 
have you visit our ware- 
house when in the city. 




Something New 


Ladies' Hosiery 

We have added two new numbers to our 

line — 
Number 500 

Double fabric silk hose for winter 
wear, combining the comfort of 
cotton, the warmth of wool, and 
the auty of glove silk. Patents 
penct • 

Number 350 

A beau in ul novelty in silk and wool 
two-tone effects; clocked. 

The Finest Trc ly "Winsome Maid" 

Allen Silk Mils Limited 

43 Davies Ave. Toronto 

A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee 

Make the New Year profitable in your Hosiery 
Department by handling the universal favorite — 


For Men, Women and Children 

These lines give satisfaction : 

For Children- 
Beautiful pure thread silk, 1 

and 1 rib. 
Silk and wool, 1 and 1 rib. 
Cashmere in heather mixture, 

three-quarter length sock 

with roll top. 
Cashmere, plain weaves and 

new shades in heather. 

All seamless, with reinforced heels and toes 

For Men and Women — 

Silk and wool mixtures, many 
combinations of colors. 

Cashmere — plain weaves and 
new shades in heather. 

Allen Bros. Co., Limited 

883 Dundas St. E. Toronto 


Profit by the Teachings 

of The Successful Stores 

UNITS" ■permit the gradual 
evolution of a turfy modern 
store interior at a small in- 
itial cost, and are described 
and illustrated in a special 
catalog for Dry Goods and 
Men's Furnishing stoi-es, 
which is yours for the asking. 

—by applying the proven principles of 
their success to your own business. 

A careful study of the more successful Dry Goods 
stores will reveal many important factors of the 
utmost value in the successful managing of your 

own business. 

Outstanding- among these many business "principles 
of success" is the absolute necessity of an attractive, 
expertly planned, adequately equipped store interior— 
an interior equipment that utilizes every foot of floor 
space, that affords unlimited display, and from every 
angle is an irresistible invitation to buy and "call 

Knowledge, painstakingly accumulated in planning and 
equipping many successful Dry Goods stores, awaits 
your command in the Kent-McClain organization — 
whether it is but a single show-case you require or 
special plans and equipment for an entirely new, 
outstanding store. 

(TbRwroSffowCASFCo) Ulfflted 

J 83 Car law Ave. 

Off Queen St. E. 

" Inter-Place-Able " Units. 





Owing to the progressive policy of the Tianufacturers 

Wayagamack Pure Kr^ft Papers 

Glazed and Unglazed 

have in the short space of eight years earned a 

World-wide Reputation 

'V r OU protect yourself only if you demand an article 
•*- that has always given satisfaction. 

There are, of course, many imitations, therefore when 
ordering wrapping paper, paper bags and paper con- 
tainers of all descriptions 

Insist on being supplied with 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 

which means 

Strength and Security 

It is stocked by and can be obtained from all the prin- 
cipal paper wholesalers from Halifax to Vancouver. 






A Few of the Uses to which 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 

may be put 

As a Wrapping Paper for:- 



















Bags Manufactured from 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 


are invaluable as containers for:- 





As Covers for:- 


Backing for Picture Frames 

Linings for Barrels 

Linings for Sugar and Salt Sacks 

Also used largely for:- 

Linings for Railway Cars 
Linings for Packing Cases 

Moth Proof Bags 
Laundry Bags 
Newspaper Wrappers 

Insist on being supplied with 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 

which means 

Strength and Security 


%!^^ i ] n ii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiii 1 1 1 1 


v W/^/y/*w^^^^^ 




\Ve Are Specialists 

Mona Lisa Veils — 

All shades. From $18.00 per £ross up. 
Buy in quantities. Stock limited. 
You will sell more at the new price. 


Stoffels Organdy and Dotted Swiss — 

The daddy of them all. 

72 newest shades — twice as many as shown by 
any other manufacturer, and each one correct 
■Colors must be seen to be appreciated. 

Dynamo Maline- 
All shades. Reduced prices. 

Buy From Headquarters 

Our salesmen are the only ones showing complete ran&e. 
A card will insure you seeing these &oods. 

vvrite Us Immediately 


84-86 Wellington Street West, Toronto 

5 5 

s s 

* IA Ayr V 

y ////////;/;/;;;M;;/;/;///M//////////MMW^^^ 




The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics in 



Batistes Nainsooks Jaconas Fancies 

Fine Muslins Voiles Crepes Dotted Swisses 


— the finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie 


To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only 


77 York Street - Toronto 








Double or Single Mesh 


JEC1 S - 

Mail Orders Promptly Attended To 


H. G. Tod Company 

78 Bay Street, Toronto 



Is concentrated on the supply- 
ing of distinctive 


as well as 

Travellers are now on the road 
with new Spring Samples. Be 
sure to see our line. 


324 Empire Building 

64 Wellington St. West 




True Irish Linen 

Ask for the Linen 

You are entitled to a guar, 
antee when you pay for 
True Irish Linen made of 
pure flax yarn. 

Not only you 
customers too. 

but your 

The Irish Linen Society 
adopted the use of the 
Linen Hallmark for this 
very purpose. 

Any member of the Linen 
Society may use the Seal 
on pure flax goods — in 
addition to private brands 
or trade marks. 



True IrishLinen 

You can feature, display 
and advertise the use of 
the Seal to your customers 
without any suggestion of 
pushing one manufactur- 
er's individual brand. 

The Hallmark is as imper- 
sonal — and in its relation 
as valuable — as the Do- 
minion government's 
imprint which makes 
legal tender out of other- 
wise meaningless bits of 

Tell the next linen sales- 
man who calls on you 
that you want the Linen 
Hallmark on all pure flax 




American Office, 5231j West 39th Street 
New York City 



Buy What You Can Sell Quickly 

T^detallic Laces 
7\ew Designs 
New Prices 

J\ew designs will 
he ready shortly. 

J\ew friends are made for your store by offering Better Value than your Competitor*. 

You will be interested in the lines being shown in our new department 
which is now in an outstanding position to give you excellent service in all the 
latest European novelties in : Radium, Metal and Chantilly Laces, Sequin 
and Bead trimmings, Fancy Voiles, Dotted Swiss Muslins, plain Organdies 
and Swiss Neckwear. 

H. P. Ritchie fe? Company 

Manufacturers — Metallic Laces — Handkerchiefs — 



"Buy From the Maker" 

^1 ■' 9ti JIT lSHk 

intern Jfc"x 

yvrite or vvire 

^^^iL #4jP^"~ M: H 

"Merre Maid" 
the dress that 

our Salesman 


is different. 


^,^fl <*| 

For children 

1/ ■ 

two to six. 

Er 1 


" W hen Customers 



There is something in the Ritchie Silk Range that keeps the trade coming 
throughout the year. — Camisoles — Env elopes — Night Gowns — Negligees — 
Step-ins — Bloomers — Underskirts. 



The number of Ritchie customers who have repeated their order is one evi- 
dence of the splendid quality and value offered. 

The Ritchie policy of seeing that you are satisfied still and always will hold 

38-42 Clifford Street, Toronto 

— Embroideries — Silk Lingerie and Children s Dresses 




The Trade Mark "OH Bleach" 
is stamped on every article 
■except Table Damasks, which 
have the above mark woven 
in four corners. 

A special interest is being shown in 
"Old Bleach" embroidery linen 
throughout the Dominion. 
Make a store display of "Old Bleach" 
merchandise. It will attract many po- 
tential customers, and help to build a 
bigger turnover in your Linen Depart- 



R, S < Trad. Mark 

23-25 East 96™ Street New York 



22 West Wellington Street, Toronto, Ont. 




9fe G/ovQ? and IHoSlQW 7/oU6V <gf Qanctda 

Gloves, Hosiery & Underwear 

For Fall 1922 

\j /OUCS* ^k gloves will not be any lower in price as the season advances. A 
glance at the chart shown on an editorial page of this issue illustrates 
the trend of prices in raw silk. As raw silk purchases will only cover 
production for a very limited time the wise merchant will see the 
necessity of placing his requirements early. Silk lingerie is similarly 

MM OSICm y • Increases on raw material made necessary a stiffening of prices 
on all lines of hosiery on December 1 st. Cashmere hose increased 
2 to 1 per cent. Silk 1 to 15 per cent. With the tendency to- 
ward improved conditions any retrograde movement is unlikely. 
Furthermore, there is a marked scarcity of cashmere yarns and 
heather combinations bid fair to be just as popular for next fall. 

\J TXCLQlXJuQClV I Though perhaps not as marked as in hosiery there is a 

noticeable increase in underwear prices. However, next 
fall will come with very small stocks carried over because 
of the light placing done this past season. 

Therefore, an intelligent observation of conditions indicates the advisability 
of placing requirements at the first opportunity. 

' Representatives will shortly be on their territories for Fall 1 922 placing. 

Richard L. Baker & Co., Limited 








The Success of 


Silk Gloves 

ACHIEVED in the short period of seven years has been more than gratifying. 
We believe it has been due to two things primarily; first: the strict adherence 
to a standard of quality that permitted of no compromise on even the smallest 
detail. Second: a recognized leadership in style and novelty of design. 

Success has been the lot of merchants who depended on Queen Quality for 
their glove department. 

Make sure of pour share for Fall 1922. 

iiniiiiiimmii urn 


Glove Silk Lingerie 

IS MADE OF the same fabric as Queen Quality gloves. Thus its extraordin- 
ary lasting qualities. 

This beautiful silk fabric lends itself to many beautiful designs whose appeal 
to women on the score of daintiness is only equalled by their practicability in 
milady's toilette. The utmost comfort in wear with the quality of allowing the 
gown to fall in perfect lines is an added attraction it is well to feature. 


lines are in the hands of our representatives who will be on their way shortly. 





°7/w Glov&s and Tiosioty 7/ou&e <g/ Ganadg 

Griffin Glove 



CHAMO Suede means fabric gloves of attractive original design 
in a wide variety of shades and contrasting effects, perfect fit, 
long wear, washability, economy. 

This all means business with a capital B for the glove department 
that is well supplied with Griffin Chamo Suede for Fall 1922. 

We are showing new designs and effects that are in themselves a 
reason for seeing the full range at the first opportunity and securing 
your requirements. 




Sole SoUtna Agents 

Richard LBaker^Ga 


84 Wellington StWest 


94? O/ov&s and Hosioty 7/ou<?e <©/" Ghnaob 



Clocked Hosiery 

THOUGH it made its bow late this fall, it met 
with such a reception that production in this 
line as well as regular Venus hose in plain and 
ribbed tops was soon sold up. Venus reputation grows 
constantly, and as production must necessarily reach 
its limit at some stage, it is a case of the early bird 
gets delivery. 

Venus Silk Hosiery Mills 





for Fall 1922 

T NCLUDES a beautiful assortment of the fancy lovatt's and heathers for 

men and women, and hosiery of quality in such variety of cotton, lisle, silk 

lisle, cashmere, fibre silk, for all the family that a London Hose Department 

will be a complete department. 

Samples for Fall 1 922 are with our representatives now. They are on the way. 



Made in 

London Hosiery Mills 




The Mark of Fine Merchandise 

With Spring and Sum- 
mer comes the renewed 
demand for 




J (Reg 1 




•^ (Rea'd) 

Unshrinkable Flannels 

for use in the ever-popular 
wash-blouse, sport-skirt, 
etc. Our Spring 1922 
price list shows further 
reductions and is avail- 
able on request, together 
with samples. 

Stock in Toronto 



62 Front Street W., Toronto 

Wm. Hollins & Co., Inc., 45 E. 17th Street, New York 

"Canadian Made" 

The higher grades of 
snow-white Cotton Bat- 
ting are being demanded 
by retail customers. 


Small Size Batts 


Comforter Size Batts 
are superior to the finest 
imported Batts and the 
price to the merchant is 
especially attractive in 

Your wholesaler will sup- 
ply you with these lines, 
also the following 




Small Style 

K. P. 

Style Battins 





Helpful Hints For the Silk Salesman 

Origin of Silk Goes Back to China — Broad Silks Woven in Europe 
in Fourteenth Century — Reached England in Sixteenth Century — 
British Silks Become Rival of Continental Productions — Arti- 
ficial Silk and Its Various Uses — Where it is Manufactured 

TO THE successful salesman of silks 
knowledge of the origin, texture and 
quality of the materials, is one of the 
essentials of successful salesmanship. In 
this article, these points are constructively 
dealt with. 

The origin of silk seems in all ages to have 
been associated with China. Some authori- 
ties even tell us that the name "China" has 
been derived from the Chinese name for 
silk, 'Ssu.' From China it was brought west- 
ward through Persia and India and the Med- 
iterranean, in the earliest times. 

Broad silks were not woven in Europe 
much before the fourteenth century. It is 
possible that the religious institutions gave 
some attention to this branch of weaving — 
for it was these orders which introduced 
many of the trades as well as the arts — 
but silk weaving was not established on a 
commercial basis until about 1455. The in- 
dustry was introduced into the British Isles 
by the Dutch and Flemish immigrants, who 
fled from the rule of Charles V. and Alva 
in the sixteenth century. Settling in London, 
Norwich, Manchester and Ipswich, they 
improved upon all the methods of textile 
weaving which were used in England. In 
the southern provinces of France, the silk 
industry had reached , at this time, even great- 
er perfection. The French, with their apti- 
tude for learning quickly, had made silks 
which rivalled the work of the Italians 
who taught them the trade. When the 
French Huguenots, who were for the most 
part the inhabitants of the southern provinc- 
es, emigrated to England, in the early seven- 
teenth century they were received in that 
country with open arms. The direct result 
of their coming was that the silks of Britain 
now rival the productions of the continent. 
The raw silk imported into Britain during 
1920 totalled over £35,000,000. Hand- 
weaving has given place almost universally in 
England, as in other countries, to machine 
work, but there are authorities who believe 
that the old method was, in many ways, 

Artificial Silk 

Artificial silk is the most recent addition 
to the world's important textile fibres. 
Although it has only been used commercially 
in America for about ten or twelve years, it 
is now a staple article among commercial 
fabrics. Artificial silk was, at one time, any 
product made to resemble natural silk; 
it is a term now applied only to the cellulose 
silk. This artificial silk is cellulose almost 
in a pure state and is obtained by dissolving 
vegetable fibres, of which cellulose in the 
chief constituent. The solution is forced 
through minute apertures into a fixing bath 
which coagulates the cellulose and removes 
all other matter. As the solution dissolves 
from each tiny hole and solidifies, a contin- 
uous filament is formed which can be reeled 

and combined with other filaments to form 
a thread. There are several processes used 
in making this cellulose material, which dif- 
fer only in the fixing material used and in 
raw materials. Some use cotton as a base 
and others wood-pulp in making the cellu- 

Artificial silk is so unlike natural silk, 
both chemically and in physical appearance, 
that there has not been direct competition, 
so far between the two. The high lustre of 
artificial silk, which is generally superior to 
the natural product, and its lower price, 
have enabled it to fill a unique place between 
mercerized cotton and natural silk. It has 
of course, much less elasticity than the nat- 
ural product but it is from 10 to 20 per cent 
heavier. Natural silk is practically unalter- 
ed by contact with water, while artificial 
silk swells rapidly and loses about 60 per 
cent of its strength, unless handled with 
great care. This weakness is, however, 
overcome by many manufacturers by com- 
bining the artificial fibres with other raw 
materials which can stand wetting. It is 
still impossible to guarantee perfect results 
in dyeing artificial silk. 

Present Uses of Artificial Silk 

AT ONE time, this fabric was restricted 
to braids, millinery and dress trimmings 
because it was inflammable and perishable 
in water. Both of these defects have been so 
improved upon, that it is now used for hos- 
iery, sweaters and in fact all kinds of knit- 
ted goods. It is woven with natural silk, 
cotton or other fibre, into dress goods, 
such as satins and fancy silks and into 
shirtings and tapestries. Plushes, carpets 
and imitation furs are now being made of 
artificial silk and many kinds of fringes, 
tassels and novelties. It is even valuable 
in the manufacture of gas mantles, elastics, 
shoe laces and other articles of minor im- 
portance. Powder bags and gas masks were 
sometimes constructed during the war with 
a combination of this and other materials. 

So far, artificial silk has supplemented 
rather than competed with natural silk. 
The present condition of the silk market, 
however, offers the possibility of severe 
competition between artificial silk and the 
lower grades of natural silk. The field of 
mercerized cotton is also being encroached 
upon by artificial silk. The latter has not 
the wearing qualities but it has the silky 
appearance which favors its substitution. 

Great Possibilities for the Process Used 

Since labor rather than raw material is 
the principal item in making artificial silk, 
manufacturers believe that in the future, 
when these costs have been reduced to 
a minimum by means of more perfected 
machines, other materials may be made. 

By increasing the size of theapertur throughe 
which the cellulose solution is forced, arti- 
ficial hair may be produced. Artificial 
straw, leather, ribbons, and cloth are things 
to be expected of the process. 

The chief countries in the world engaged 
in the production of natural silk are France, 
Belgium, Germany and Switzerland. Italy, 
England and the UnitedJStates have now 
begun its manufacture in real earnest. 
Even Japan, the home of natural silk,|is 
undertaking artificial silk on a small scale. 
The present big demand for this material 
is for hosiery, particularly in the United 
States and Canada. 

Canadian Buyers 

To Attend Fair 

Plans For British Industries Fair Are 

Progressing Well — Facilities 

For Overseas Men 

That many Canadian buyers will 
visit the eighth annual British Indus- 
tries Fair, to be held in London and 
Birmingham from 27th February to 
10th March, was the statement made 
in an interview by the British Trade 
Commissioner in this district. Buyers 
believe that the market is more stable 
and that a renewal of their overseas 
purchasing visits is due. This Fair is 
Britain's annual display of her manu- 
factures and industries and the trade 
buyers' opportunity of selecting good* 
for the ensuing season's trade. 

A very large number of industries 
will ibe represented at the Fair and a 
descriptive pamphlet containing a list 
of such will be mailed to intending- 
visitors, tog-ether with a compliment- 
ary admission card, on application to 
the British Trade Commissioners in 
Canada. Their addresses are: — 248 St. 
James Street, Montreal; 260 Confed- 
eration Life Building, Toronto; and 610- 
Electrical Railway Chambers, Winnipeg. 

The function of the British Indus- 
tries Fair is to bring buyers and sell- 
ers together and to facilitate business 
between them. Goods can be inspect- 
ed, prices compared and definite order* 
placed at the Fair. 

The promotion of a successful trade 
fair cannot be achieved by good organ- 
ization alone. Of greater importance 
are quality and price of the goods 
shown. In both London and Birming- 
ham the management of the Fair has 
itlhe advi|ce of Oommittees which in- 
clude the names of (prominent ! >usi- 
(Continued on page 27) 



The Cotton Trade in 1921 

Sir Charles W. Macara Summarizes Conditions in 
1921 — Believes That World Supply Adequate For 
1922 And Price Tendency Will Be Upwards — 
Cost of Production Will Remain Higher Than In 
Pre-war Days — Difficulties To Be Faced 

SIR CHARLES W. Macara is a noted 
world authority on cotton, and as this 
material is basic to many of the 
lines handled by dry goods and men's 
wear dealers his summary of the condi- 
tions affecting the cotton industry dur- 
ing 1921, together with a forecast of 
conditions in 1922 is well worth consider- 
ing. He says: — 

The year for cotton has been one of 
the worst we have ever known. In ad- 
dition to a strike, we have experienced 
a long spell of short time, due partly to 
the extremely high prices to which cot- 
ton goods soared, causing an unprece- 
dented reduction in consumption. It has 
always to be borne in mind that cotton 
fabrics are the clothing of the poorest 
people all over the world, and conse- 
quently the great rise in prices affected 
the people who could least afford to 
buy cotton goods. 

Then, when trade might have begun 
to prevail, we had a campaign of 
"slump," which started in America at 
the latter end of 1920, and destroyed 
confidence all over the world. People 
were given the idea that great reduc- 
tions in the prices of goods were bound 
to follow immediately upon reports of 
cheaper cotton, whereas, had they but 
known it, there could be no substantial 
fall owing to the high costs of produc- 
tion and the fact that much time must 
elapse before the raw material becomes 
the finished article. In the case of the 
finer goods, the processes often extend 
over a period of twelve months or more. 
These stupid slump reports, therefore, 
were responsible for leading the trad- 
ing community and the consumer to 
cease buying, and many of those in the 
trade, equally misled, declined to take 
up goods that had been ordered from 
the manufacturers and merchants. The 
result has been chaos, and many noted 
firms, which from the nature of their 
business are obliged to carry large 
stocks and have heavy commitments, 
have incurred serious losses. 

For some time to come, we are not 
likely to be in any special difficulty with 
respect to the over-production of ma- 
chinery; what is troubling the cotton 
spinner and manufacturer just now is the 
instability of the prices of the raw ma- 
terial and the uncertainty there is as 
to the growing of cotton later on. Ow- 
ing to bad trade and the reduction in the 
output of our mills during the past twelve 
months, we have no anxiety as to the 
cotton available at present, despite the 
feverish operations that have followed 
the issue of the disappointing report 

'.-n the American cotton crop issued by 
the Washington Bureau of Agriculture 
at the beginning of September. There 
can be no immediate cause for worry, 
seeing that the cotton in hand and in 
view is equal to the amount available 
in the super-year of 1914-15. Then the 
amount of the American crop was of- 
ficially reported to be 15,100,000 bales, 
but I have reason to believe the figure 
to have been in reality round about 17,- 
500,000 bales. My' views are corroborat- 
ed by the great carry-over we have at 
present. The Bureau now reports that 
the crop for the present season, owing 
to the restriction of acreage of the 
planters, will be 7,037,000 bales only, 
but even so, taking these figures as 
reliable (and I have found that these 
American cotton figures should always 
be taken cum grano salis), there would, 
with the second carry-over of 9,194,000 
bales from last season, be no less than 
16,231,000 bales disposable. Even should 
a portion of this be unsuitable for the 
spinner, we are likely to have enough 
and to spare of cotton for the next 12 
months, seeing that for the last three 
years the total world's consumption of 
American cotton has averaged but a 
little over 11,000,000 bales a year. 
Trade in the Future 
The disturbing factor is as to the at- 
titude of the planter with regard to the 
next and subsequent seasons, seeing that 
he has been so scared by our near-sight- 
ed policy of allowing cotton to fall below 
the cost of production. I have shown 
over and over again, both before and 
during the war, how suicidal it must 
be for the manufacturer to get his cot- 
ton at a price which would not pay 
the grower to produce, and how in the 
end it would result in cotton not being 
in sufficient quantity to meet the world's 
demand for cotton fabrics. To obviate 
this, I have counselled the storing of 
cotton in years when, owing to one cir- 
cumstance or another, we have had a 
big surplus, but my advice has been 
disregarded. This season what I pro- 
phesied has happened, planters having 
allowed nearly half their cotton acreage 
to go out of cultivation. Our big carry- 
over is our salvation at the moment, 
but what is to happen if we only get 
half a crop next year and the year af- 
ter that? It will he n errim lesson to 
not only Lancashire but to the whole 
world. The costs in the plantations, as 
everywhere else, have been enormously 
increased of late years, and the grow- 
ers must either be compensated or go 
out of business. 

Four facts, therefore, emerge with 
clearness. One is that cotton in future 
is bound to be dearer than in the past; 
another, that the cost of the production 
of cloth will remain much higher than 
in pre-war days; thirdly, that the world 
will have to make up its mind to pay a 
higher figure than formerly for all ar- 
ticles of cotton manufacture, seeing that, 
with all the "writing down," goods in 
stock and in process of manufacture 
are still double what they were before 
the war; and, fourthly, that as England 
and America, the two principal factors 
in the cotton industry, have reduced their 
working hours to 48 per week, and there 
is a possibility of other cotton countries 
falling into line, we shall have to face 
a permanent reduction in output of ai 
least 15 to 20 per cent. 

What we in the cotton trade in Lanca- 
shire fear more than foreign rivalry 
is that, when the long overdue revival 
does come, we shall have a repetition 
of the conditions of the first few months 
of 1920, when, owing to the wild state 
of the markets, it was not a question of 
price, but a question of delivery. This 
would be disastrous for everybody, and 
would prevent the trade from settling 
down to a long, steady period of work. 
I must say, however, that, unless the 
standard of clothing in the world is to 
be reduced very materially, I cannot see 
how, when the demand starts, it is to 
be supplied adequately with the present 
reduced hours in the mills and a con- 
siderable proportion of the cotton ma- 
chinery on the continent of Europe still 
out of working order. 



(Continued from Page 26) 
ness men Who devote much time and 
thought to the arrangement of the 
Fair, thus insuring a display of goods 
complete, alike from the point of view 
of diversity and excellence. 

The progressive man of business, 
whether buyer or seller, has recognized 
in the trade fair an essential element 
in the machinery of modern commerce. 
It is at the British Industries Fair 
that new ideas in manufacture are 
found displayed alongside well-known 

The Fair provides a great stimulus 
to competition. With many manufac- 
turers in an industry exhibiting their 
products side by side, rivalry is keen, 
and the buyer pro! it * accordingly. 

Every possible facility is at the 
disposal of Canadian buyers who visit 
the Fair which will be found to be 
the finest display of quality goods in 
the world. 

Novelty metal girdles show great promise 
for sprine. They are replacing those of 
self material especially on the dark col- 
ored suits and gowns. 



"Where to buy British Goods" 

A directory of some of the lines made by British firms advertising in this issue. 


Marcus Riches, London. 


John Watson, Manchester, "Linwear 


Priestley Brothers, Halifax. 


James Carr & Sons, Ltd., Manchester. 


The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchester. 

Kirby Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 


The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchest- 

Jauffred & Gariel, "Lion Crest Brand" 

John King & Son, Glasgow. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow. 

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 

Jennens' Welch & Co., Ltd., Hudders- 


Studd & Millington, Ltd., London. 
J. & J. M. Worral, Ltd., Manchester. 

Horrockses, Crewdson Co., Ltd., Man- 

Browne, Jackson & Co., Manchester. 


Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 


Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

Jauffred & Gariel, Manchester. 

"Lion Crest Brand." 

John Watson, Manchester. 

0. Balthasar & Co., London. 

W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham. 

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not- 

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow. 

Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 


John Watson, Manchester. 


Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd., 


The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 


Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 


0. Balthasar & Co., London. 


Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 


John Watson, Manchester. 


Studd & Millington, Ltd., London. 

Jennens, We'ch & Co., Ltd., Hudders- 


Marcus Riches, London. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchestei-. 

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd., 

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchest- 

Infants' Footwear Ltd., London. 


James Carr & Sons, Ltd., Manchester. 


The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 


Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 


John Watson, Manchester. 


Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 

Wm. Gibson & Co., Ltd., Nottingham. 

F. Newton & Co., London. 

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 


The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 



Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham. 


Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham. 


Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham. 

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham. 


Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham. 


Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 


Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick. 

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd. Manchester. 


Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick. 


Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 

0. Balthasar & Co., London. 

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

Riggs Bros. Ltd., Manchester. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 


Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 

Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester. 
Horrockes, Crewdson & Co.. Man- 


Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester. 

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

Joseph Hovle & Son, Ltd., Longwood. 



SV1 £W 




Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 


Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow. 

Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 
Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 

The Hoi ins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 
Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow. 
Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man- 

Gillett & Ewer, London. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 
The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 
The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not- 
W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham. 
C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow. 

Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 
Dobsons & M. Browne & Co., Ltd., Not- 

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 

Studd & Millington, Ltd., London. 


Jennens We'ch & Co., L*:d., Hudders- 


Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd., Man- 


Thos. Potter & Son, Manchester. 
John Watson, Manchester "Linwear" 


Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 


Wi'son, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 


John Watson, Manchester, "Eagledown 


Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 


Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 


Gille t & Ewer, London. 


Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 
Scott Bros. & Co., Hawick. 


Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 


Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen. 


John King & Son, Glasgow. 


Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 


The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 
Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester. 
Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man- 
Thos. Potter & Son, Manchester. 


The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man- 


Jennens We'ch & Co., Ltd., Huddeis- 


Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 


James Carr & Sons Ltd., Manchester. 
F. Newton & Co., London. 


Studd & Millington, Ltd., London. 

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood, 


Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick. 

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester. 

Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen. 

James Carr & Son. Ltd., Manchester. 

Geo. H. Wheatcroft & Co., Wirksworth. 

O. Balthasar & Co., London. 

The Island Spinning Co.. Lisburn, 

Gillett & Ewer, London. 

Gillett & Ewer, London. 

Thoa Potter & Son, Manchester. 

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick 

Wm. Gibson & Son. Nottingham. 

Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham. 


Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham. 

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick. 

Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham. 

James Carr & Sons Ltd., Manchester. 


The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd., 


J. & J. M. Worrall, Ltd., Manchester. 

Joseph Hoyle & Sons, Longwood, 


Browne, Jackson & Co., Manchester. 

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London. 

J. & J. M. Worrall, Ltd., Manchester. 

W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham. 

Wilson & Co., Glasgow. 

Studd & Mi lington, Ltd., London. 

Jennens Welch & Co., Ltd., Hudders- 


Riggs Bros. Ltd., Manchester. 

James Can- & Sons. Ltd., Manchester. 

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not- 


John King & Son, Glasgow. 


John King & Son, Glasgow. 

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd. Longwood, 


Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen. 


Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham. 

Marcus Riches, London. 


J. & W. Bastard, Leicester. 


J. & W. Bastard, Leicester. 


J. & W. Bastard, Leicester. 


J. & W. Bastard, Leicester. 

J. Carmichael & Co., Leicester. 


Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester. 






W. H. Steley, 22 W. Wellington St., Toronto. 


The J. & W. Bastard (Boston) Co., 184 Sumner St., 
Boston, Mass. 


S. M. Hansher, 35 Wells Hill Ave., Toronto. 

Ontario and Quebec 

J. L. & A. Iddon, 505 Carlaw Bldg., 28 Wellington 
St. W., Toronto, and 30 St. John St., Montreal. 
Manitoba and Saskatchewan 

Cleat & Co., 708 Builders' Exchange, Winnipeg. 
British Columbia and Alberta 

McMaster & Co., Ltd., 301-321 Cordova St. W., Van- 
couver, B.C. 


D. F. Moore, Manchester Bldg., Toronto. 

H. E. Walker, 601 Mercantile Bldg., Vancouver. 


Mr. Alf. J. Burrows, travels Canada. 

J. Dudgeon & Co., 809 Unity Bldg., Montreal. 


Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto. 


C. W. Dunning, Empire Bldg., Toronto. 


Canadian Branch Office, 62 Front St. W., Toronto. 


John E. Ritchie, 591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal. 

Archer Robertson, 327 Board of Trade Bldg., Mont- 

G. S. McConnell, 1,754 Barclay St., Vancouver, B.C. 

Walter Williams & Co., Ltd., Montreal, 508 Read 

Bldg.; Toronto, 20 Wellington St. W.; Quebec, 533 
St. Valier St.; Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg. 


G. H. Napier, 417 Coristine Bldg., Montreal. 
A. Wilson, 91 Albert St., Winnipeg. 


Campbell Smibert & Co., 329 Craig St. W., Montreal. 
Campbell Smibert & Co., 76 Bay St., Toronto. 


Mclntyre, Son & Co., Ltd., Victoria Square, Montreal. 


H. Ward Dibb & Co., 505 New Birks Bldg., Montreal. 
H. Ward Dibb & Co., 30 Wellington St. W., Toronto. 


E. W. Dean & Son, 32 Seymour St., Vancouver. 
Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland, 25 Toronto St., 


Edgar Fenton, 718 Empire Bldg., Toronto. 

James B. Jamieson, 108 Wellington St. W., Toronto. 


C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St. W., Toronto. 

R. C. Poyser, 41 King's Hall Bldg., St. Catherine St. 

W., Montreal. 
Halley & Mackay Co., Hammon Bldg., Winnipeg. 

Vancouver to Winnipeg 

E. W. Dean & Son, 325 Howe St., Vnacouver. 

Toronto to St. Johns 
John F. Snarr, 64 Wellington St. W., Toronto. 


R. H. Ball & Co., 716 Empire Bldg., Toronto. 
J. F. Hughes, 30 St. John St., Montreal. 


Walter Williams & Co., Ltd., Montreal, 508 Read 
Bldg.; Toronto, 20 Wellington St. W.; Quebec, 533 
St. Valier St.; Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg. 


G. B. Oliver, 116 Mail Bldg., 106 Bay St., Toronto. 

The Byard Manufacturing Co. Ltd. 

Telegrams: "Halo," Nottingham. Code: A.B.C. 6th Edition 5 letter. 

Manufacturers of 






See Directory of "British Agents in Canada" for Our Representatives 


3 1 


The Fine Scotch Underwear 
with the Fine Scotch Finish 

ii t ■ A00 much of a good thing" 
can never apply to the 
Pesco productions. The 
lady, for instance, who has become 
familiar with the quality and com- 
fort of Pesco Underwear will in 
all probability insist on buying 
Pesco Hose. 

Pesco Hose offers the same delight- 
ful wear to women, and the same 
advantages of ready sale to deal- 
ers, as Pesco Underwear itself. 
Theirs also is the quality appeal. 
Sheer merit in making, shaping, 
seaming, splicing and finish is evi- 
dent in every number in the range. 

Pesco Hose are obtainable in pure 
wool and silk and wool, and in all 
colours and mixtures. For dress and 
sports wear there is nothing like 
them. Nor is there anything in 
Hosiery that will so easily satisfy 
or so surely hold a client. 

Sole Makers : 


Hiwick, Scotland 

London (England): Carey House, Carey Lane, E.C 2 

Agents in Canada : 
Messrs. C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St. West, 
Toronto. Mr. R. C. Poyser, 418 King's Hall Build- 
ing;, St. Catherine St. W., Montreal, Messrs. Hanley 

& Mackay Co., Hammond Building, Winnipeg. 

Showcards, Window Tickets and Literature Supplied 

Enquiries invited. 

Obtainable in Pure Wool and Silk 
and wool textures — 

For Ladies — Combinations, Vests, 
Spencers, Bodices. Drawers, Knick- 
ers, Nightdresses. Kib Vests, etc.. 

For Children — Combinations, Night- 
dresses, Sleeping Suits, Shirts. 
Trousers, Knickers, etc., etc. 

For Infants — Binders, Wraps, KUt- 
lets, Gowns, etc. 

For Gentlemen — Shirts, Trousers, 
Combinations, etc., etc. 

Pesco Hose and Half Hose in Black, 
Colours and Mixtures, and 

Pesco Sports Coats, Jumpers, Under- 

vests. Sweater Coats, Scarfs and Caps 

in the latest styles and colour effects. 

Guaranteed Unshrinkable 






have been made for one 
are recognized throughout 
most saleable shading. They 
are unshrinkable, fast colors 
and widths. To insure get 
ers are advised to Examine 
Also inside Holland Tab on 
that each bears name of 

hundred and forty years and 
the world as the best and 
are unequalled for quality, 
and made in all colorings 
ting genuine goods, custom- 
Tickets and Paper Bands. 
end of each piece and see 
"John King & Son." 


Made by 



Established 1775 
Canadian Representatives : CAMPBELL, SMIBERT & CO., MONTREAL and TORONTO 

Robert Morton & Sons 


34 Albion Street, Glasgow 


Buckrams - Sparteries - Marlys 



Cables: Morton, Glasgow 

Code: Marconi 


At the First Sign of Spring 

At the first sign of Spring, there will be a big 
demand for India Long Cloths, Nainsooks, 
Cambrics, Diaphalene, and other fine cottons 
for which HORROCKSES are famous the 
world over. 

There is no advantage in holding your orders, 
as all placed NOW will receive the benefit of 
any reductions in price before shipment from 



591 St. Catherine Street West, Montreal. 
Branches in Toronto and Vancouver. 

Wri(?ht & Graham Co.. 110 Franklin St.. New York City 


Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers. 




— the distinguishing symbol of the Bradford 
Dyers' Association — lifts a product out of 
the purely competitive class and makes it a 
standardized staple for 

This Season — Next Season — Always 

Fabrics with the best dye and finish — 
Fabrics of greater beauty, finer texture and 
longer life — these are some of the business 
recommendations back of the world- 
known symbol — 



Bradford Dyers' Association: 

master bhxdford loi^on 


, 6 OXrORO S T 
S^ PETERS 59. 

Dept. 43 
39 WELL 5' 

128 O 129 






We keep up our large variety in 27in., 30in., and 50in. 
Casements. Best value on the market. 


Extensive range in 30in. Domestic and Sateens. 

Specially in 50in. Reversible and 50in. Taffeta Duplex. 
High class and latest styles. 

Through Wholesale and Shipping Only. 


Manchester, England. 

George H. Napier, 417, Coristine Building, MONTREAL 
Andrew Wilson - - - 91, Albert Street, WINNIPEG 

Established over *a Cenlury-and-a-halj 




Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers 

Head Office and Warehouse : 

Telegraphic Address : "Wigibson. Nottingham" 

Factories: — 

Lincoln Street, Nottingham. Cromford Street, 
Nottingham. Castle Donington. 

Gent's, Ladies' and Children's Under- 
wear in Cotton, Lisle, Union Mixture 
and All Wool, in weights to suit all 

Plain and Fancy, Striped and Em- 
broidered Hose and Half Hose, Seam- 
less and Fashioned. 

Registered Brands : 

Agents for Canada: — 

Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto 












Sheets and Sheetings 







'Wardibb, Toronto. 

"Adelaide 1802' 



mfa&mv mmtfmjmmmm 

The British Government 

(Department of Overseas Trade) 

Announces that the eighth annual 

British Industries Fair 

Will be held at 

London and Birmingham 


27th February to 10th March, 1922 

All Canadian buyers are cordially 
invited to attend. 

A particularly fine and comprehen- 
sive range of 

Fancy Goods, Toys, Perfumery, 
Carpets and Linoleum 

will be shown in addition to many 
other lines of manufactured goods. 

Goods can be examined, values 
compared and contracts concluded 
at the Fair with the minimum of 
trouble and the greatest saving of 

Full information and complimentary 
admission cards are obtainable from : 

H. M. Senior Trade Commissioner 

248, St. James Street, Montreal. 

H. M. Trade Commissioner 

260, Confederation Life Building, Toronto. 

H. M. Trade Commissioner 

610, Electric Railway Chambers, Winnipeg. 

■;-JF *"■ 


Our many Canadian friends 
are invited to write for sam- 
ples and prices of our velvets. 

We can promise prompt at- 
tention to all Canadian en- 
quiries as we give our export 
department special consider- 

Our well known "Elysian' 
Velvet is, of course, a name 
that guarantees quality and 


121, Princess Street 


Telegraphic Address: 

Intense - Manchester 

Agent for Canada: 


35 Wells Hill Ave. 




Codes.-AB.C. 5 T .? Marconi Bentleys 

Decorations by 


(The Amalgamated Firm^ 

Wholesalers and 
Importers onlv 

. • Factories^-" 

Meadows MilLNoitirtfliam 
Anglo-Scoiian Mills 

■ Beeston ■ 

Victoria MiIlsJ)raycoit, 

Burn'Road Mills, 

" Darvcl^.B." 

■Head Offices:- 
Station Street 




IT'S NOT worth while 
paying good money for 
good cloth unless you en- 
sure that it is properly 
shrunk. Weave and weight 
are readily tested and the 
maker's name may not mat- 
ter. It's the shrinker who 
handles it last, and you need 
his guarantee. 

The best of all guarantees 
of perfect shrinking is the 
stamp of 


London, Huddersfield, [Bradford 

— the world's premier firm of cloth 
workers, shrinkers, finishers, etc., 
who are also the proprietors of the 
renowned JENKWEL Waterproof 
Rubberless Finish, applied to 
tweeds, serges, coverts, fancy 
worsted costume cloths, etc. 


SpringwoodpWorks, Huddersfield 


Soft Sole Shoes 
in Kid, Silk, 
Poplin, Wool, 
etc., and Hard 
Sole Shoes, 

Children's Woolly-Wear, Bonnets, 

Gaiters, Mitts, etc 





11 Milk Street Bldg., Cheapside 
London, E. C. 2. 

(Established In 1860) 

Specialists in, and direct importers of all make? 
of— Lace Curtains, Hand Made Lace Goods- 
Including French and Italian Linen and Lace 
Tea Cloths, Duchess Sets, Bedspreads, Etc. 

Represented By 

W. H. Steley 

22 West Wellington St., Toronto 



Tickets of admission can be 
obtained from the office of 
this paper. 





MAR. 28-AP. 7 


APR. 24-MAY 5 



cables: promenade AVE. lomdois 




Autograph Albums 


Marcus Riches 

(10 Years Factory Manager of T. W. Alderman & Co.) 

Fancy Leather Goods Manufacturer 


Illustrated Booklet sent on application. 

Please mention paper. 



Cables : "Woollens Aberdeen" 




London Office : 59 Gresham Street, E. C. 2. Established 1773. 



rp-r ; r t t n i i i i i i i i i i .■ i i ; : » i i i r i i i i t 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 n i i 1 1 i n i j n i it 

Regisfered No 262 005 



Pure Irish Linen Threads 

Manufactured by 





for manufacturers of Clothing, Boots and Shoes, 

The combination of strength, smoothness, dura- 
bility and reasonable prices is found in "Fountain 
Brand" Thread. 

Qualities for every purpose kept in stock. 
Ask for samples and prices. 

Walter Williams & Co. Ltd. 


508 Read Building 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St. 

VANCOUVER, 217 Crown Building 

The Hall-Mark of 

Maximum Comfort and 
Durability at Minimum Cost. 


Manufactured on THE GRADUATED 
PRINCIPLE, and Commencing with TWO 
THREADS in the TOP. it increases in 

and the HEEL and TOE FIVE, 
making it essentially 



To be had from any of the Leading Wholesale Dry Coods Houses. 

^i ri iii i iii m iiiii i i iiTr i i i i t m i mi i iTrnFii ii nnt i m i mii iiT i ' 



mmmmmt&e)mjmm%'«i)&ffl wmm 





from one of 

organisations . 


MATERIAL plays as large a 
part in the production of a 
"selling" suit as the "cut"— 
— nothing so conduces to a 
shabby appearance as second- 
rate fabrics. 

The TWEEDS produced by 
Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., are 
made under ideal conditions by 
highly skilled labour. Every 
care is employed in the selec- 
tion of the right grade of wool 
and scrupulous attention paid to 
the weaving and finishing. 

The dyes are fast to wash and to 
sun, and the material as a whole 
may be entirely relied upon to 
give sterling service under the 
most strenuous conditions. 









Prospect Mills, LONGWOOD, YORKSHIRE, Eng. 

7 '< lephonc : 



London Office : 
Telephone : 
P. O. CENTRAL 377 






The Oldest Tie House in Wood Street. 

Exclusive West End Designs 

All Ties specially cut and made up for each order, special 
attention being given to customer's own ideas. 

We are showing at the Clothing and Outfitting Exhibition 
at the Agricultural Hall, March 28 — April 7th, and shall be 
pleased to see you at our stand No. 239 at the corner of the 
gallery. Look for the Black and White stand. 

If you cannot visit the Exhibition our full range can always be 
seen at 



Telephone, City 8336 




IMIMlMl^ MMIMllMlMl^l^ 


Rigg's Motto: Quality at a Consistent Price 




-the standard product of the British 

Market— 99 

Steadily maintain that irreproachable quality which 
has rriade them famous and appreciated throughout 
the world. 

The reputation of the makers is a guarantee of the 
worth of Rigg's Sheets. 

Made only of specially selected pure cotton. Contain 
no filling matter whatever. 

RIGG'S SHEETS give most wear with the highest 
degree of comfort. They neither shrink nor roughen. 

Look for the name "Rigg's Sheets" on the selvedge. Accept no substitutes. 

Canadian Agents: 

From Vancouver to Winnipeg: E. W. Dean & Son, 82 
Seymour Street, Vancouver, B.C. 

East of Winnipeg: Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland. 
25 Toronto Street, Toronto. 

Sole Manufacturers: 

Rigg Brothers, Limited 

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers 

since 1836. 

6 Mo8ley St., Manchester, Eng. 

Cables: Rigg Brothers, Manchester 




A B.C 5"<s6:"£"f WESTERN UNION (5 LETTER), 









Offering Well-Known Goods 
Makes Selling Easier and Trade Steadier 

KIRBY, BEARD & CO., Limited, 


Is an old name, one that is known and inspires confidence because every product is 
made with a view to strengthen the reputation won through 200 years of dependable 




a partner and traveller in the house of Kirby, Beard & Co., who died October, 1823. 

Brass Pins, Steel Pins and Plated Pins, Hair Pins, Hairpin Boxes, Cabinets, Safety 
Pins, Needles, Needle Cases and Work Boxes. 


Mclntyre Son & Co., Limited 

Victoria Square - - Montreal 



®mmmmmn8mmm$mmm rmm 

Coats for 
Appearance and Service 

Cut and made by experts our productions stand 
for all that is best in style, quality and durability. 
The man who demands the best should lose no 
time in getting acquainted with us. 



Toronto to St. Johns — 

J. F. Snarr, 64 Wellington Street West, 

Vancouver to Winnipeg — 

E. W. Dean & Son, 325 Howe Street, 








For Service & Satisfaction 

Manufactured by 

George H. Wheatcroft & Co. 

Wirksworth, Eng. 



Like other goods of Eng- 
lish manufacture, Super 
India Shrunk Tape is 
unequalled for strength 
and durability. Also, it 
does not shrink and will 
not stretch. 

All W'rlrVis snd pr'V"« in 
other qualities of Speed- 
well Tapes. 


Walter Williams & Co. Ltd. 

Montreal Toronto Quebec 

508 Read Bldg. 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St. 

Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg. 





Ecru and Colored Madras Muslins, 
Coin Spots and Figured Harness 
Book Muslins Robe Muslins 


Anglo-Swiss and Broche Muslins, 

"Wilsco" Lawns, "Zelette" 





Calicoes, Flannels, Blankets 
Linens and Towels 
Scotch and Soft Furnishing 
Curtains and Curtain Nets 
Dress Goods 
Printed Cottons 
Flannelettes (Dyed and 

Mantles and Costumes 


Dress Skirts 
Laces and Embroideries 
Handkerchiefs and Neck- 

Silks and Velvets 
Flowers and Feathers 
Trimmed Millinery 
Straws and Semi-Trimmed 


Hosiery and Woven Under- 

Furs and Umbrellas 


Buttons and Trimmings 


Sports Coats 

Ladies' and Children's Out- 

Every attention is given to all enquiries, and a cordial 
welcome is extended to those buyers visiting the Old Country 


Address : 




9, St. Pauls Churchyard, LONDON, E.C.4 

Ttlejrjmi: "PAWSON, CENT, LONDON.' 

'Prion.: 828 CITY (t ltn«3) 

4th and 5th 

and W.U.T. 
Codes used 





C-on-M Manchester - England 

Manufacturers of 


Embroidered and lace insertion 




Eagle Chamoisette Dusters and 


Sole proprietor of " LINWEAR" 

(Reg.) a high class cotton cloth with 

the wear and appearance of 



Messrs. R. H. Ball & Co. 

716 Empire Buildings 
64 Wellington Street West 
Toronto, Ontario 

mmmmmm m 


87 McAlpine Street 




A. B.C. 

5th & 6th Editions 

Manufacturers of Lace Curtains and Piece 
Goods, Casement Nets, Ecru and Coloured 
Madras Muslins, Delhi Muslins, Fast Stitch 
Lace Nets, Fast Colour Madras Muslins. 

Represented by: 

Central Canada : 

Edgar Fenton, 718, Empire 

Buildings 64, Wellington Street. 

W.. Toronto. 

Western Canada and New- 
foundland : 

James B. Jamieson, 108, Wel- 
lington Street, W., Toronto. 



Manufacturers of 

Lace Curtains 
Fancy Nets 

\ it rages 

Brise Bise Blinds 


Messrs. J. Dudgeon & Company 

809 Unity Building, 






Manufacturers of all classes of Webs, 
Cords and Bindings, in cotton, wor- 
sted and linen; Curtain Webs, Edg- 
ings, Layon Borders, Blind Cords, 
Carpet Binding, Cotton Banding, etc. 

Original Patentees of 


Agent for Canada: 

Mr. D. F. Moore 

Manchester Building, Melinda Street 


MMMmm m®&m<,mmmmmm. 



Also at : 






116 Mail Buildings, 106 Bay St., 


Cablegrams :- 

' ' *'' P 

Dress Linings, Satins, Plain & Printed. White & Grey Calicos & Sheetings. 

Tent Ducks, Drills, Ripple Cloths. 

Plain & Frilled Pillow Cases. 

Woven Striped Ducks. 



Fancy Vestings. 

Colonial Suitings. 

Woven Satin Drills. 

White and Dyed Crossovers. 

Plain and Hemstitched Sheets. 

White & Dyed Drills. 


Casement Cloths. 




Ducks & Piques. 

Ribbon Cloths. 

Ginghams, etc. 

Tailors' Linings 

Dyed & Printed Twills, Jeanettes, Satins, Cambrics, Single & Double Warp 




Prepare fully for Spring Trade — by 
visiting our warehouse at Montreal. 

There are good reasons why it will pay you. 





Dry Goods /wptbh? 

Volume XXXIV. 


Number 1 

Hard Work, Close Economy, Sound Judgment ; 
These Three Lead Back to Normal Conditions 

Credit Conditions During 1921 and Outlook for 1922— Not so 

Many Failures as Anticipated — Reasons for Failures Due to Lack 

of Proper Store Systems and Careless Stock-taking — Stocks 

Should be Written Down During Inventory 

Written especially for Dry Goods Review by A. S. Crighton, Secretary Canadian Credit Men's 

Association, Limited, Toronto. 

17*9^ those engaged in merchandis- 
IH ing, the year just ended has been 
A perhaps the most difficult ever ex- 
perienced in the history of Canada and 
that so few, comparatively speaking, 
have failed to weather the storm is evi- 
dence of the ability and sound business 
judgment exercised by the great ma- 
jority of our retail merchants. 

During the prosperous years of the 
War and subsequently until the middle 
of 1920, money flowed freely. High 
wages were paid for all classes of la- 
bour and the public spent as freely as 
they earned. Manufacturer, wholesaler 
and retailer prospered. Gradually, 
however, business began to slow up. 
Shelves, emptied during the War, be- 
came stocked to repletion with merchan- 
dise bought at the peak. Buying at the 
peak means selling at the peak and' in 
spite of the general slowing up in busi- 
ness, signs of unemployment and a 
tightening of money, high prices were 
still maintained. 

Then came the buyers' strike. Out- 
most exclusive citizens talked of wear- 
ing overalls — not that they ever did, 
but they talked about it. The public, 
however, began to think they were be- 
ing robbed. Of all successful strikes 
the buyers' strike was probably the most 
successful. Prices not only fell — they 
tumbled, rolled and bumped each other 
like a regular avalanche all the way 
down the hill. 

Has the bottom been reached? In 
the opinion of the writer, speaking gen- 
erally, it has. Some lines wi 1 go still 
lower, others will stiffen again, but for 
normal requirements the retailer is 
safe in buying freely. Price fluctuations 
are inevitable, but this is a condition 
we have to face when business is norm- 

The Future Bright 

What has the future in store? For 
Canada — peace, prosperity and plenty. 
Anyone who has travelled the length 



In placing the Annual Spring 
Number of Dry Goods Review in 
the hands of our readers we wish 
to direct special attention to the 
Neiv Goods Section which follows 
the General Section of six pages. 
This is an editorial section, not an 
advertising section of the issue. It 
is something that has never before 
been attempted on such a scale in 
any Canadian Trade Neivspaper, 
and we have spared no effort to 
make it as attractive and, at the 
same time, as useful as it could 
possibly be made. In illustrating 
these new articles of merchandise, 
collected from many Canadian 
manufacturers, we are showing 
many of the latest things to he- 
found in the market, and we are 
showing them in such a way that 
credit will be done to the enter- 
prize of the manufacturer and 
some good selling points placed in 
the hands of the Canadian retailer. 

This is only a part of the feast 
of this January issue. The very 
latest information on style and 
business development in the var- 
ious departments covered by Dry 
Goods Review has been gathered 
and presented in. such a way that. 
our readers may have a corrtvre- 
hensive grasp of the whole situa- 
tion as it has unfolded itself thus 
far along the road to what we hope 
may lead to a satisfactory Spring 
business for the trade. 

and breadth of our great Dominion and 
has watched its development for t 
past twenty years is a pessimist indeed 
who cannot see prosperity in s'ght. Out- 
natural resources are boundless and 
their development is as yet only com- 

mencing. With a return of confidence, 
capital will loosen up and work will be 
provided for all. This does not mean, 
however, that the average merchant is 
ever again going to enjoy such business 
and profits as were his during the 
fictitious prosperity of the War period 
and it is altogether likely that for some 
time to come quiet business is likely to 
prevail. To meet this condition, it is 
going to be necessary to get right down 
to hard pan in the matter cf reduction 
of everhead expense o the lowest pos- 
sible minimum. 

Causes of Failure 

The granting- of indiscriminate credit- 
by many retail merchants is the cause, 
in some cases, of absolute failure and in 
many cases, of a failure to reach that 
measure of success which they would 
otherwise attain. Under existing con- 
ditions the wise merchant is he who ex- 
ercises a firm hand in the collection of 
his accounts and the greatest discrimin- 
ation in the granting of credit to his 

In the writer's experience as admin- 
istrator of businesses in financial diffi- 
culties, it has been found frequently 
that these difficulties might have been 
avoided had a proper (merchandising sys- 
tem been in effect. In numerous instances 
it has been found that stock is allowed to 
accumulate until it becomes out-of-date 
and almost unsalable and, in some cases, 
it seems to have been the policy to push 
to one side good salable merchandise in 
order to make room for new incoming 
stock. The writer has in mind two in- 
stances in particular of serious financial 
difficulties, resulting almost in bank- 
ruptcy, brought about by no other cause. 
In both these cases inventories, taken at 
replacement value in the summer of 
1921, showed more stock on hand than 
the actual volume of sales for the year 

(Continual on age 113) 



Dry Goods Review 

The Hudson Bay Company of Calgary 

One of the Early Trading Posts of the West — Advertising Through 
the "Movies"— How They Entertain the Children— Methods of 
Introducing New Fashions — Treatment of the Staff and Hospi- 
tality to Competitors— The Winter Golf Course 

MERCHANDISING in the west, 
as everyone knows who has read 
Canadian history is so inextric- 
ahly interwoven with that good old pion- 
eer company The Hudson Bay, that its 
activities are really part and parcel 
with the story of the growth of the 
frozen North from an unexplored waste 
of land to what has become, a wonder- 
ful land of enterprise, trade and manu- 

When one enters any one of the pala- 
tial Hudson Bay stores from Winnipeg 
on through all growing western cities 
and realizes that this company began its 
activities with a few trading posts 
among the Indians, even the march of 
years is hardly sufficient to justify its 
enormous development. 

And with it all the pioneer trading- 
posts of the far north are still in exist- 
ence, and sturdy little steamers that p.y 
their way over the swift running cur- 
rents of the northern rivers in the open 
season, are still loaded with packs of 
glistening- furs to be made into beau- 
teous garments for the fair shoppers who 
frequent the tempting shops. 

"Movies" For Advertising 

One had a chance to see these far 
north trading posts, the rushing streams, 
the glorious mountain and lake scen- 
ery, the Indians on snow shoes, and pad- 
dling their canoes, the Hudson Bay 
steamer with a full load on, in a series 
of films which the company has spec- 
ially taken last year, and of a truth 
it was an educaton to even a near-east- 
ener. What the steamer means to the 
isolated Indians as it draws in laden 
with the things they need, flour, rice, 
wearing apparel, is evident by the vio- 
lent demonstrations of joy with which 
they greet it, and of the eagerness — and 
yet shrewdness— with which they barter 
their precious pelts. A great deal of 
diplomacy is still necessary on the part 
of the far-north factors in dealing with 
these brown bro hers. They are chil- 
dren, and while a great deal has been 
done for their instruction there is still 
a virgin field, for the endeavors of the 
factor and his great ally the missionary. 

Th? Calgary Store 

Taking the Hudson Bay store in Cal- 
gary as one typical of its sister stores, 
a few words about its development may 
not be out of place at this anniversary 
season. A glance at >he first little 
store where from 1884 to 1891 The Bay 
did its pioneer bus ; mss in Calgary takes 
the Old Timer 'way back to the days 
when the buffab and bear were not un- 
known, and Indian visiters more fre- 

The Hudson Bay store at Calgary, 1884—1891. This is a long way from 
the magnificent six-storey building which they occupy at the present time, 
but somehow it is an apt illustration of how the history of this company is 
interwoven with the history of the development of Canada. 

quent than welcome. Even in those 
days the Bay had treasures to offer 
though, for behold the exceeding fancy 
baby buggy, the wonderful sulky cart, 
the rocking horses and sleighs display- 
ed. This surely must have been a 
Christmas display to judge from the toy 
window which brings one with a bound 
to the Hudson Bay Christmas demon- 
strations of to-day in Calgary. 

Theatre for Chl'dren 

This year was a particularly festive 
occasion for the little people. Thousands 
of them were entertained by Old Santa 
himself in the spacious tea rooms at the 
Bay, and not only that but there were 
four special matinees put on at the Cap- 
itol Theatre when the children were ad- 
mitted by ticket — procured free pre- 
viously by a grown-up member of the 
family — and Santa made them happy 
not only by a real speech, a little chat 
with many of them and a gift of some 
s >rt or o her, to say nothing of the 
film thrown in for the benefit of the 
youngsters. Yes, quite a change since 
1881, though perhaps the little ones 
were just as happy then with the sim- 
pler delights. So widely were the Santy 
Clans Hudson Bay Christmas parties 
for the children in favor this season that 

to the regret of the management they 
had to ask that no more names be sent 
in for invitations quite early in Decem- 
ber. It was simply impossible — large 
as the space is — to handle all the child- 
ren, and the management made a point 
of allowing no larger number to gather 
at one time than could be properly 
handled and seated — in real grown-up 
fashion — at the "really" party, so some 
of the little people are looking forward 
to Old Santa's visit to the Bay next 
Christmas, and they will be sure to get 
in an application for an invitation bright 
and early next time. 

Introducing Fashions 

Christmas festivities though of course 
are only an iota of the planning demand- 
ed by the management of a huge es- 
tablishment such as the Calgary Hud- 
son Bay store. Opening time for in- 
stance is alays planned for months 
ahead, and the fall fashion display of 
the Bay for 1921 was one tha f will not 
soon be forgotten by the shopping pub- 
lic. This season the fashions were shown 
from the stage of the Capitol theatre, 
a special "gang-way" being built out 
over the orchestra pit in order that the 
mannikins might display all the beauty 
(Contined on page 61) 

Dry Goods Review 



The Markets At a Glance 

Keen Merchandisers Look For Possible Improvement the Last 
Half of the Year With the First Half as Good as Year Ago — Start 
Out on Better Basis — Advances Recorded in Some Lines — Ad- 
vance Showings of Millinery, Ready To Wear and Accessories 

Get Good Business 

«« ^ ONSCIOUS OPTIMISM" is the expression that 
I - one keen merchandiser used to Dry Goods 
^-* Review in trying to get a long-distance view of 
trade during 1922. The expression might mean a num- 
ber of things, perhaps: but this man intended it to 
mean that everyone, has a right to be an optimist in 
Canada but that there are times when one should be 
very conscious of one's optimism, to the point where 
many things must be taken into consideration before 
it can be labelled 1 "sane optimism." This man's op- 
timism looks to us like sane optimism because he re- 
gards the rising value of the pound sterling and the 
Canadian dollar, the effort being made to establish 
European credits, even ihe settlement of the Irish ques- 
tion, as hopeful signs which must have their effect upon 
the commercial situation. On the other hand, he is 
not unmindful of the unemployment situation in this 
country, of the low prices obtaining for farm produce, 
of the number of small holders of Victory Bonds who 
are throwing them on the market, indicating their de- 
pleted pocket book->. And his conclusion is that, with 
a good' crop assured and these hopeful signs pointing to 
a betterment of world conditions, the last half of the 
year will see a marked improvement in the trade. 

Starts Out Well 

Other than this, trade starts out with the beginning 
of the year as well as it did a year ago with more 
healthy conditions back of it. Stocks are cleaned up 
and the same necessity for forced sales with little or no 
profit does not obtain. It may be a year when les* 
merchandise is actually sold, but with more profit at 
the end of it. Some of the houses have had their 
travellers out for a week since the turn of the year and 
the indications are that the retailer will continue to 
buy what he sees he has a market for, There will he 
no speculating — that would be dangerous. But there 
is one other danger hardly less destructive of a man's 
business, that is, failing to have the actual requirements 
of the trade. There is no occasion to lose sales ; mer- 
chandise is to be had, and a starved stock may mean 
a shattered business. Live merchandising men will be 
into the market frequently, aiming at quick turnovers 
and not too large margins of profit. These are the men 
who will watch the curtain fall on 1922 with a degree 
of satisfaction. 

Woollen Dress Goods 

Wholesale houses state that they have, up to this 
time, booked more Spring business than they did a 
year ago. They think that it will be a good piece goods 
season and that tihe habit manv young women have 
got into of making their own dresses will be a factor 
in the year's trade to their benefit. Plain materials 
have gone fairly well but the more pronounced demand 
has been for novelties in checks and stripes and with 
fairly bright colors. One specialty boos? i* finding 
it hard to supply the demand for novelties of this kind 
and they state that staple lines, up to now, are moving 
very slo'wlv. Conditions in the market, generally, arc 

becoming much more stable and there is a feeling that 
if there are no more avalanches of distress merchan- 
dise, prices may l>e considered to have reached a stable 
basis. There will probably be fluctuations, though 
not of a disastrous character. 


The demand of hosiery manufacturers for raw >ilk 
has been so great that it has made piece goods so high 
that jobbers are staying out of the market except for 
their barest necessities. For instance, a 12 m. pongee 
that has sold in Toronto wholesale houses as low as 50 
cents a yard is now $1.00 in Japan. The advance in 
the last six months has been almost 100 per cent on 
many lines of Japanese silks. On other lines there has 
been an advance of about one-third within the la^t few 
months, that is, on European silks. 

Travellers that have been out since the first of the 
year are booking some very good business and they all 
say that silk stocks are low on the retail shelves. They 
state, however, that buying is conservative, generally. 
While reports from the West are to the effect that little 
buying is being done in the three prairie provinces gome 
good orders have been received in silks. 

Linoleums, Oilcloths, Draperies 

►Since the first of the year there have been some 
downward revisions in table oils and in importd lines 
of linoleums and inlaids. The 0-4 table oil that was 
formerly $6.32 is now $5.52 and all other widths show 
the same proportionate decrease in price. _ The drop in 
the prices of imported linoleums and inlaids is 20, 
221/2 and: 25 per cent, audi it is the first drop that has 
taken place since the peak days immediately after the 
war. These drops have been long in coming but they 
represent a substantial reduction. 

Many of the drapery houses have been getting some 
nice orders from large hotels that are refurnishing from 
cellar to garret in carpets, curtains, draperies, etc. Some 
new styles in curtain draping is also responsible for 
some good sales in curtain materials. Prospective mar- 
riages and building programs are always of interest to 
the carpet and furnishing men and there is a feeling 
amongst them that this year will be a better one than 
last becatise building will be cheaper than it was during 

Some wholesalers have been disappointed in deliv- 
eries of English lines of cretonnes and flowered sateens. 
Merchandise that was to have been delivered by the 
first of December has not even been heard of by the 
middle of January and there is no word of explanation 
regarding them. 


Toronto houses are delayed in getting their travellers 
on the road with Spring millinery and only a few of 
them — special men — have sone out at this time of 
writing. Some very good orders have come in from the 
West. Wholesale bouse-; state that the trade are 
(Continued on Page 113). 



Dry Goods Review 

3&vv #oobsi &ebteto 


Issued the 15th of each month 

Published by 


143-153 University Avenue Toronto, Canada 

Branch Offices: 

MONTREAL— 128 Bleury St. 

WINNIPEG— 901 Confederation Life Building. 

VANCOUVER— 314 Carter-Cotton Building. 

LONDON, England— 88 Fleet St., E.C. 

NEW YORK— 1606 St. James Bldg., 1133 Broadway. 

CHICAGO— 405-6 Transportation Bldg.; 608 Dearborn St. 

BOSTON— 734 Old South Building. 

Subscription Rates: 

In Canada, per year $2 . 00 

Outside Canada, per year $4 . 00 

Single Copies, 25 cents. 

Vol. XXXIV. 

TORONTO, JAN. 1922. 

No. 1 


Nineteen hundred and twenty-two, for the great bulk 
of the trade, starts out with a clean sheet. ' Nineteen 
hundred and twenty-one will go down in history as the 
clean-up year. January, a year ago, was fraught with 
many apprehensions. Stocks were heavy, much of 
them high-priced, and there was a noticeable indispos- 
ition on the part, of the general public to buy. Goods 
moved slowly from the -helves of the retailer to the 
consumer. The man who had a long distance view of 
the situation knew that prices had to come down a good 
deal and that meant heavy losses all along the line ' To 
stimulate consumer buying on a falling market has 
been the constant problem confronting the dealer dur- 
ing the past year. Those who took their losses during 
the first months of the dlecline in prices — and these were 
the heaviest losses — were in good shape to take advan- 
tage of distress merchandise and turn it over at a slight 
profit to themselves. Such merchants have come 
through the year successfully, lakinn heavy losses of 
course, hut making a sufficient profit to. in some cases. 
more than off-set them. 

The in-coming year begins under favorable auspices. 
Stocks are clean. Trade will sharply reflect consumer 
demand, for the retailer is still committed to the policy 
of buying from hand to mouth. It k therefore, advis- 
able that the retailer stndv his held carefully, that he 
work it systematically, thai lie seek out new merchan- 
dising plans that will attract new friends to his store, 
as well as retaining the old ones. It will he a merchan- 
dising year in a nvw sense. The old stocks have gone. 
But if ''school is to keep." profit must be made and this 
must be made on the turnover of new merchandise. Tt 
should he a lively year. In one of his la-test reports 
Raibson said the next \'rw years would gee merchandis- 
ing plans in operation thai were never before even 
thought of as being possible. Nineteen hundred and 
twenty-two may sec the first of them. 

Competition and Fixtures 

A certain Canadian fixture manufacturer known to 
us has just closed the most successful year in his history. 
His business in comparison with 1020 shows an in- 
crease of thousands of dollars. At first glance it might 
seem that Canadian merchants, during a business de- 
pression, would be unlikely to spend much money in 
fixtures. That is not the case, so it develops, and it is 
worth while glancing for a moment at the reason for 
it not being the case. 

This manufacturer believes that the reason for his 
increase in business is to be found in the relationship 
between competition and fixtures. In other word?, 
keen competition has forced merchants to adopt every 
conceivable method of legitimate merchandising. First 
impressions are gained through the eye. and they are 
very lasting. It is safe assumption that the most at- 
tractive store in any locality has a distinct advantage 
over its competitors. Many merchants are coming into 
a deeper realization of this fact and axe making their 
stores more attractive. It is part of the expanding 
idea of better service to the consumer, for up-to-date 
fixtures not only mean better service but a much more 
attractive store. 

Many of the people who drift to the larger cities to 
do their buying are attracted by the up-to-dateness of 
city stores, by their very attractiveness to the eye. 
This asset to successful merchandising can be brought 
rigid to the door of every consumer. It would- seem 
that the year just (dosed made many old fashioned 
-tore- into up-to-date ones. It was money well spent. 

Economy of Operation 

The National Bank of Commerce of New York in 
its forecast of business conditions of the year 1922 says 
that "profits will depend more on economy of operation 
than on expansion of volume." Their statement goes 
on to advise that with the many favorable factor- now 
operating, business men should not fear to make plans 
for the new year, but they should plan with care and 
conservatism and with constant effort toward reduction 

of costs." 

That is good advice. At the same time, the mean- 
ing of economy should be well understood. Cutting 
out advertising, slashing salaries and the like are cer- 
tainly means of saving money — but they may not 1»- 
economy. They may mean suicide in a business way. 
li seems to us that the safest way to economize on oper- 
ation is to decrease the percentage of operating costs by 
increasing the volume of business. Thai, at least, 
should be an ideal to keep ever before the mind during 
1922. We do not urge that the knife should not he 
applied to operating costs. But it should not le used 
to the point of rendering less efficient every arm of the 
store service. The year 1922 will certainly not be a 
year when less efficient methods will stand the merch- 
ant in good stead. Competition will be extremely keen 
both locally and from mail order houses. A perfect 
organization will be a greater factor in successful 
merchandising during L922 than it has been for some 
years. To cut down operating costs to a point bevond 
which the best possible service can be rendered wool I 
not be economy. 

Dry Goods Review 




(Continued from page 58) 

of their costumes to full advantage. 
With the colored lights playing over 
the beautiful tints of ihe gowns and 
wraps, the graceful figures of some of 
the best suited Bay employees to the 
occasion, the soft music, even the most 
hard-hear. ed husband wished it were in 
his power to make his wife happy with 
some of the delightful women's wear 
shown. Good advertisers? Indeed yes, 
the Hudson Bay Co. are that every time. 
With the six marvellous floors of the 
store towering one above the other, with 
everything from notions to the most 
beautiful of house furnishings occupying 
its proper place, with the Elizabethan 
dining room — a triumph of artistic ar- 
rangements — in constant demand for all 
kinds of entertainments as well as the 
regular luncheon patrons, with the enor- 
mous auto delivery, with the open air 
playgrounds and roof garden above the 
sixth floor, with the splendidly arranged 
rest rooms, and beautiful display par- 
lors, this store is most certainly an as- 
set to a growing city and what is true 
of the Calgary s L ore holds good with 
little variation through the entire chain, 
the new Vic oria, B. C. establishment 
being the latest to open. 

Co-ope ation With Employees 

And one of the features which claim 
the respect of the general public to- 
wards this company is he markedly 
humanitarian manner in which they 
treat their employees. Co-operation 
marks the workings of the store, each 
department manager being keenly in- 
terested in the employees under his par- 
ticular superision, and every arrange- 
ment possib'e being made to give the 
men and girls a chance to attain their 
best in working- for the company. The 
Calgary Athletic H. B. association is 
one of the -mest remarkably successful 
that has been inaugurated; fullv 90 f ;v 
of the staff took out active membership 
in this club, and the Company saw to 
it that a club house was erected, a golf 
course marked out, tennis, basket ball, 
and all the other out door sports provid- 
ed for. The Club House is within easy 
distance of the citv by street car, but far 
enough out to make the girls and men 
forget they ever saw the inside of a 
store. It is beautifully situated on the 
Elbow River with the rolling foothills 
within sight, and many happy weekly 
Wednesday half-holidays did the club 
members spend there to say nothing of 
the long summer evenings. The club, 
too, got on to a self-supporting basis 
after the Comoany had set it going, 
showing- that the staff really armreciat- 
ed it and were making it their own. 
In the winter there are skating parties, 
driving parties and what not, and the 
club house with its gramaphones, and 
ever hot coffee a Mecca to the holiday 

Welfare Association 

Not content with a "For-Fun" or- 
ganization though, a week before Christ- 

mas of 1921 the first annual banquet 
of the Hudson Bay Welfare association 
took place, and as one was privileged 
to look around among the 500 bright 
faces of this "store family," to listen to 
the splendid Christmas message given 
by the newly installed manager, Fletch- 
er Sparling, one could not but think that 
these boys and girls and men and 
women were being given every chance 
to make good in whatever department 
they had chosen to cast their activi- 
ties. The Welfare association is one 
with a big "W,' - and means not 
only co-operation among the employees in 
he. ping one another, but also means co- 
operation on the part of the company 
should misforutne or illness take a hard 
toll from one of their number. Just as 
a mark that there was nothing in the 
world small about the new Welfare lea- 
gue, Mr. Sparling had asked to be pres- 
ent three former managers of the store, 
one of whom was P. J. Parker of Park- 
er's Limited, the big store just across 
the way from the Bay, opened by Mr. 
Parker after he left the Bay, and its 
strongest present opposition in the city. 
Mr. Parker was given a real ovation 
from his old friends, and must have left 
ihe entertainment feeling that this 
good-will business was more than on the 
surface when it was extended to him — a 
first rate rival — so heartily. 

Yes, the Hudson Bay stores mean 
much; to the west. The puiblic does 
not forget the rough and tough pioneer- 
ing days, and many of the employees 
ran trace back fathers and grandfathers 
in the sei'vice of the company. Court- 
eous attention, quick refunds, certain 
exchange of goods if requested always 
marks the dealing of the Bay, and as 
an influence for the bettering of the 
merchandizing community, these stores 
can be relied upon to jet a high 
standard for their less extensive com- 
petitors. The personnel of the manage- 
ment has always meant much to the 
business life of Calgary. In Board of 
Trade matters, in Public Welfare, and 
organized charity, the men at the head 
of the Bav affairs have ever been ready 
to lend a good right hand. 
H. B. Golf Course 

The latest thing in Calgary to-dav in 
he line of sport is the Hudson Bay 
Indoor Golf course. This has been ar- 
ranged in a corner of one of the spacious 
floors wh°re there is lots of sunlight 
with an object of giving relaxation to 
golf attaches who aie derived of their 
favorite pastime in f he winter months. 
The course is canvass enclosed, there be- 
ing room for three "courses" and a 
green. Demarkation lines are painted 
on the forward canvass to give the dis- 
tance and accuracy, thus making it pos- 
sible for the plavers 'o have as close a 
game as though in the open. Putting', 
driving and mashie work either a'one or 
in tweso res or foursomes is the order of 
the day, with an instructor in attendance 
for "hose who need him. The fee is 
moderate, and many of the business men 
have taken advantage of this unique in- 

Convention to 
be a Big Affair 

Amalgamated Convention And Textile 

Show Promises Big Influx Of 

Business Men 

PREPARATIONS are well advanced 
for the Amalgamated Convention 
of Ontario retailers to be held in 
Toronto during week of February 13- 
17 in conjunction with the Textile Pro- 
ducts Exhibition. The different branch- 
es of the retail trade — Dry Goods, 
Merchants, Clothiers and Furnishers, 
Furriers and Hatters, Merchant Tailors 
— are organizing their conventions, ar- 
ranging for speakers and for the dis- 
cussion of topics of practical and cur- 
rent interest to the men of the trade. 
The dry goods convention will be held 
on Monday, February 13th; Clothing 
and Furnishing men will hold their con- 
vention on Tuesday and) Wednesday, 
February 14th and 15th; while the Mer- 
chant Tailors will meet on Thursday, 
February 16th. Furriers and Hatters 
hold their convention on Friday. 

Object of Exhibition 

The purpose of the forthcoming ex- 
hibition primarily is to demonstrate and 
emphasize the quality and attractive- 
ness of Made-in-Canada textile products 
to the retailer so that he, in turn, may 
be ini a stronger position to emphasize 
to the customer the national character 
of the textile trades. 

Eighty-one booths on the mezzanine 
floor of the King- Edward Hotel have 
been arranged for this exhibit and at 
this time of going to press more than 
fifty per cent, of them have been en- 
gaged by, Canadian manufacturers from 
many centres of the Dominion. Within 
twenty-four hours of the launching of 
the plan, the Hawthorne Mills, Ltd. of 
Carleton Place had engaged their booth 
and in quick succession the Forsyth 
Shirt Co., Ltd. of Kitchener and the 
Deacon Shirt Co., Ltd. of Belleville had 
followed suit. Not only fabrics but 
garments as well will be shown, of all 
kinds in which fabrics are shown. There 
will also be ranges of overalls, oiled 
garments, raincoats, silk goods, hats 
and caps, fabric gloves, neckware, sus- 
penders, cottons and woolens. Although 
it will touch but lightly upon the wide 
field of women's wear, caterers to the 
costuming requirements of the sex are 
far from being disinterested in its suc- 
cess. There are reasons on this occasion 
for the general restriction of displays 
to men's wear although cloths and other 
women's suit materials will naturally 
figure . in the showings of representa- 
tive woolen manufacturers, knitting 
mills and smalware producers. 


Not the least pleasant feature of the 
Amalgamated convention will be the 
(Continued on page 63) 



Dry Goods Review 

Retiring R. M.A. President is Honored 

B. W. Ziemann, President of the Ontario Branch of the Retail 
Merchants' Association, is Recipient of a Presentation on His Re- 
tirement at the Closing Session of the Annual Convention — 

The New Officers 

TORONTO, Jan. 13.— Following the 
visit of the deputation of the exec- 
utive of the Ontario Retail Mer- 
chants 1 ' Association to the office of the 
Hon. H. C. Nixon, provincial secretary, 
at the parliament buildings on Wednes- 
day morning, the convention of the 
association was called together in the 
auditorium of the Prince George Hotel. 
President B. W. Ziemann was in the 
chair. Reference was made in last week's 
issue to the hearing before the Provin- 
cial Secretary and the various questions 
there brought up, were dealt with. 

One of the Best Years 

Opening the first regu'ar session on 
Wednesday afternoon, Mr. Ziemann stat- 
ed that 1921 had been one of the best 
years in the organization despite the 
fact that it had been a hard year for 
many retailers. He referred to the news- 
paper statements alleging that the re- 
tailers were responsible for holding up 
prices, stating that the buyers' strike did 
not bring down prices, but on the other 
hand brought about a disorganization of 
business, and that as a result retailers 
could not sell goods and so could not 
give business to wholesalers. In turn the 
manufacturer was forced to curtail with 
the resu't that unemployment resulted in 
a large measure. 

"No one body can act alone in the 
commercial world," said Mr. Ziemann, 
"and what affects one affects every 
branch, and the worker, who is the ulti- 

FOR 1922 

The following officers were 
elected by the Ontario R.M.A. for 
the ensuing year: president, W. J. 
McCully, Stratford; first vice- 
president, Wilfred Hodgins, Lon- 
don; second vice-president, T. A. 
Sharp, Midland; third vice-presi- 
dent, R. A. Stephens, Ottawa; 
treasurer, D. W. Clark; secretary, 
W. C. Miller. Officers to the Do- 
minion executive council, Henry 
Watters and R. A. Stephens, Ot- 
tawa; representatives on the Na- 
tional Exhibition Board, D. W. 
Clark and T. Bartram, Toronto; 
and auditor, W. S. Ball, Toronto. 


Of Preston, who has retired from the 
presidency of the Ontario R. M. A. 

mate consumer, is going to feel it just 
the same as the retailer, wholesaler and 
manufacturer. The people by this time 
have come to the conclusion that the re- 
tailer is not responsible for high prices 
and the retai'er cannot break away by 
himself from the situation. I venture to 
say that there is not a retailer who is 
not taking his loss day after day and not 
saying* anything about it. We have had 
high priced goods on our shelves and the 
only way to take advantage of lower 
prices has been to clear out the old goods 
at any price and stock up on the new. 
This process has been general through- 
out the country and retailers are not in 
league to keep up prices. There are so 
many retailers, and all anxious to do 
business, that this competition regu- 
lates prices to a 'arge extent. I believe 
we have reached the turning point in the 
road. I believe from now on we will find 
the people throughout the country are 
gaining confidence. We find that factor- 
ies are beginning to operate more steadi- 
ly than in the past year." 

Increased Membership 

Secretary Miller's report showed a 
total of 3.D95 members, a net increase of 
685 for the past year. He briefly review- 
ed legislative matters taken up during 
the year including the eight hour day, 
transient traders, motor vehicles, amend- 
ments to minimum wage law, female 
help, damage to stores from riots, trade 
section meetings, auto dealers' delega- 
tion to Ottawa concerning the tax on 
automobiles, etc. In regard to this latter 
matter he stated that the manufacturers 
had agreed to absorb 50% of the tax 
which was demanded by the Government 
from dealers on cars in stock at time of 
application, but the adjustment had not 
been satisfactory and a full refund of 
the amount was asked. Concerning the 
minimum wage regulations Mr. Miller 

pointed out that in most cases the wages 
paid by retailers are higher than the 
minimum wage suggested. 

His report showed that five new trade 
sections had been organized in Toronto 
in the year. Assessment matters were 
also being taken up and it was stated 
that in future more care would be ex- 
ercised in assessing retai'ers' properties. 
The help which the association had been 
to merchants in connection with the In- 
come Tax was also dealt with, it being 
pointed out that whereas some mer- 
chants had been penalized $50 for laxity 
in making returns, representations had 
been made and this fine reduced to $10 in 
most cases. 

The report of the Treasurer, D. C. 
Clark, showed a very substantial balance 
on hand. 

Henry Watters, Dominion treasurer, 
speaking for E. M. Trowern, Dominion 
secretary, pointed out that it was the 
plan to appoint provincial advisory com- 
mittees to bring pressure on the Domin- 
ion Government in connection with 
national problems. He stated that an 
assistant secretary had been appointed 
on the Dominion Board for the purpose 
of keeping in close touch with various 
Government departments. 

Govt. Should Pay Inspection Fees 

Referring to the fees charged for the 
inspection of weights and measures, he 

(Continued on page 93) 

Of Strut ford, Ont., who is the new presi- 
dent of the Ontario Retail Merchants' 

Dry Goods Review 



December Business was Satisfactory 

Dry Goods Merchants, For The Most Part, Did Same Volume of 
Business With Slightly Decreased Cash Returns — Some Cases 
Better Than A Year Ago— Stocks Are Well Cleaned Up— The 
Coming Year to be Careful One With Chances Favoring Better- 
ment If Crops Good 

THAT is, in brief, the verdict of 
dry goods merchants throughout the 
country on Christmas trade. To many, 
it was better than they had expected in 
comparison with what they had done in 
1920. During the year there had been 
more unemployment, there was evident 
a greater disposition on the part of 
people who had money to conserve it 
and prices have fallen during the twelve 
months of 1921 to a much greater ex- 
tent than in the corresponding months 
of 1920. The value of merchandise had 
dropped about thirty-three per cent on 
the average; it was necessary, therefore, 
to increase the sales by iabout that much 
to come out with a balance sheet that 
showed the same cash returns as in De- 
cember of 1920. There would not have 
been very bitter complaints if the Christ- 
mas business had shown a considerable 
falling off. 

Volume About the Same 

By means of a questionnaire and by 
personal contact with merchants in a 
number of the leading centres of this 
province, Dry Goods Review has gath- 
ered information which shows that the 
volume of mercandise sold during the 
month of December was equal to that 
sold during the same month of 1920. 
In a few cases, it was even greater. 
More customers were waited on, except 
in a few isolated centres where local 
■conditions — such as Niagara Falls, for 
instance — had greatly decreased the 
purchasing power of the consumer, if 
not actually decreased the number of 
■consumers. Some reports were to the 
vffect that customers sought smaller ar- 
ticles of merchandise than they did a 
year ago and the heavier, lines suf- 
fered thereby, though there are one or 
two centres where grim winter is a 
force to be reckoned with, where furs 
sold better than a year ago, presumably 
because the prices were down. 

Some Cases Better 

There are a few cases where business 
in both volume of merchanise and cash 
receipts were better than a year ago. 
One large department store in Hamil- 
ton known to us increased its sales over 
75 per cent during the last week before 
Christmas in comparison with the same 
week a year ago. Another store re- 
ports their volume of merchandise 
greater but their cash returns 16 per 
cent. less. These stores did some very 
active advertising during the month and 
pulled hard for business. Still another 
store in reporting an increase of 19 ^ 
per cent, in volume and 8% per cent, in- 

crease in cash receipts stated that they 
spent less on newspaper advertising but 
devoted more attention to better win- 
dow and interior dislay. A large store 
in eastern Ontario reports the volume 
of business greater but the cash returns 
exactly the same as a year ago; while 
another one states that their cash re- 
turns were within five dollars of those 
of December 1920. A leading firm in 
Northern Ontario stated that their vol- 
ume of business was about the same as 
a year ago and that the demand was 
more for necessities than a year ago, 
while their cash returns were about 
three-quarters of what they were in 

Some Feel the Pinch 

Some of the stores throughout the 
country have felt the pinch of the year 
and report the volume of sales as less, 
as well as the cash returns. One mer- 
chant reports the volume 90 per cent, of 
that of a year ago and the cash receipts 
75 per cent, of those of December 1920. 
Still another says volume was 80 per 
cent, and cash receipts 60 per cent, of 
a year ago. A merchant from northern 
Ontario says he served 25 per cent, few- 
er customers and his cash returns were 
50 per cent, below those of a year ago. 
A number of other reports are to the 
effect that the volume of business was 
about the same with the cash returns 
lower by from 5 to 25 per cent. 

Stocks are Clean 

There is almost a unanimity of opinion 
from all parts of the country as to the 
condition of the stocks in the retail 
stores. They have been well cleaned up 
and merchants state that their 
stocks are in the best shape they 
have been in for some time — some say 
for years. In the departments handling 
the smaller articles on which there is al- 
ways a big Christmas rush, and this 
Christmas a particular one, stocks are 
in many cases, nearly wiped out. Al- 
ready merchants have had to go into the 
markets to replenish their depleted 
stocks. The heavier departments did not 
fare so well, but with the sales that 
have been run and the extra efforts put 
forth to dispose of surplus stocks, they 
are pretty well cleaned up. 

These reports confirm articles that 
have appeared in Dry Goods Review be- 
fore to the effect that the merchants be- 
gan the year 1922 with their stocks in 
good condition. This view has been sub- 
stantiated by the Financial Post which 
sent a questionnaire to over 400 bank 

managers throughout the country and 
received answers to the effect that many 
merchants' stocks were actually below 
their requirements. 

A Careful Year Ahead 

In conversation with many merchants 
with regard to the year upon which we 
have just entered, the opinion is gather- 
ed that care will be exercised through- 
out; it will be a "Watch your step" year 
in which the consumer demand will be 
carefully noted and reflected in the buy- 
ing policy of many keen merchandising 
men. One merchandising manager stat- 
ed to Dry Goods Review that before any- 
buying was done, the fullest and complet- 
est knowledge would be at his disposal 
with regard to stock on hand in quan- 
tities, sizes and styles, so that no over- 
buying would result. On the other hand, 
he does not expect to lose sales because 
of fear of buying. Requirements will be 
placed without fear, knowing that the 
store with the depleted stock has little 
chance of retaining its customers. Deal- 
ers are optimistic, though not foolishly 
so. They look for the gradual return of 
normal times. When the extent and 
value of the next western crop is known 
and if it is favorable they expect better 
times to set in. Where local conditions 
are such that employment will be p.enti- 
ful on account of public works or build- 
ing of private homes, merchants feel that 
they will do good business. On the 
whole, as good a year as 1921 is look- 
ed for with the chances largely in favor 
cf a better one. 


(Continued from page 61) 

entertainment for the visiting delegates. 
It is hoped that between 1,500 and 
2,000 business men from all sections of 
the Province will be in attendance dur- 
ing a part or a whole of the week. 
Arrangements are being made for their 
entertainment in such a way that it 
cannot he said that time hangs dully 
on their hands when the arduous 
duties of the day are over. Banquets 
and theatre parties will be the order 
of the day. 

John Christie, advertising and sales 
manager for the firm of Hodgson, Sum- 
ner, Montreal, has 1 left on an extended 
trip through the western states for the 
purpose of studying conditions there 
and visiting the leading firms of Chicago. 



Dry Goods Reel, u 

Open Golf School in Their Store 

New Departure by Blumenthal Sons of Montreal by Which They 
Expect to Draw Trade From Enthusiastic Golfers — Initial Outlay 
of the Firm Very Small — The Plan Described — Getting Women's 
* Trade as Well. 

ANEW and profitable departure in 
store features has recently been 
inaugurated by the Montreal firm 
of Blumenthal Sons, Limited, which 
promises to become one of the most suc- 
cessful they have yet tried. The idea in 
question is the installation of a large 
and very complete golf school in the la e- 
ment of the store, which occupies an 
area of more than 6000 square feet of 
floor space, and which is unique in that 
it is the only golf school conducted in a 
retail clothing establishment. 

Explaining the idea to a staff member 
of Men's Wear Review, a member of the 
firm spoke of the intens ; enthusiasm 
which is manifested by beginners at the 
game and the real need that exists for 
a good indoor course on which they may 
keep in practice throughout the winter 
months. It has long been a custom in 
leading departmental stores to feature 
such indoor courses, and in New York 
every representative store such as Wana- 
maker's, McCreery's and Gimbels and 
also, the sporting goods stores and lead- 
ing hotels feature miniature links on 
which beginners and more advanced 
players may keep in trim for the real 
season. Montreal stores have featured 
these indoor courses with such mccess 
that the idea has come to be looked upon 
as a logical department wherever space 
is available. Wherever the game of golf 
is played there is an opportunity to open 
an indoor golf school and the value of 
this school as a drawing card to the 
clothier is not to be overlooked in any 
locality, no matter how small. 

In each of the indoor golf schools 
conducted by Montreal stores, the state- 
ment was made that the demand for ex- 
pert instruction is becoming increasingly 
popular and the engagement books of 
the professionals under whose supervi- 
sion the courses are operated, show not 
a single idle moment from early morning 
to closing time. 

Value To Retailer 

The particular valu° to th« clothier 
in one of these indoor courses lies in the 
fact that they cost little to construct, 
they do not necessarilv require a large 
area of floor space, they bring people 
into the store who may have never 
entered it before and they stim^.ate the 
sale of sports clothes and furnishings. 
In the case of the Smart Set Golf Course 
erected in the Blumenthal store, so nam- 
ed by the way, in honour of the range 
of clothing featured &? the store's lead- 
ing line, there are three compartments 
fcr practising driving, nearly a dozen 
putting greens, as well as bunkers and 
other aids to pleasurable exercise. In 
addition a workshon is maintained 
wherein all types of clubs are made and 

Some months ago, Men's Wear 
Review urged Canadian retailers 
to get after the golfers' business. 
The game of golf is becoming ever 
and ever more popular and cater- 
ing to the needs of the well-dress- 
ed golfer is opening up a new av- 
enue of profits for a number of 
the most aggressive men's wear 
dealers throughout the country. 
The accompanying article dealing 
with a new idea just put into op- 
eration in the Blumenthal store in 
Montreal is one that might well 
command the earnest attention of 
many retailers who are ynerelian- 
dising in a centre that is becoming 
more and more popular as a golf 

fitted to the heads by an expert m this 
work, and these are also for sale. 
Points To Remember in Layout 
The main essential to success, plenty 
of light, has been provided for in the 
Blumenthal store course and innumer- 
able overhead globes shed direct light 
on each section of the floor. The ser- 
vices of professional are, of course, also 
essential and two are thus employed 
on the Smart Set Course, both of whom 
are well known to Montrealers at large 
on account of their association with two 
cf the most fashionable golf courses in 
Quebec. The arrangement made with 
the professionals is usually on the basis 
that the store furnishes the space and 
equipment which in the case of the Blu- 
menthal course cost about $100 only, 
and the instructors make a charge of $15 
for lessons. There is a membership fee of 
$5 for the season as well. These fees 
pay the instructors while the advertis- 
ing and the nrestige resulting from the 
presence of the school in the store pays 
the latter equally. New goods peculiarly 
suitable for sports purposes are promin- 
ently displayed on the course and special 
displays of other goods are arranged 
along the corridor leading to the course 
which likewise exercise not a little at- 
traction uoon the players. That the idea 
of the indoor coui'se is very profitable 
is made clear by th? fact' that all estab- 
lishments in which it is conducted find 
it worth while to feature the indoor 
course year after year with ever increas- 
ing popularity. 

How The Course Is Planned 

Although the Blumenthal course is 
located in their spacious basement, the 
usual plan in force in most stores is to 
use an upper floor, or the roof, or any- 
where that good lighting is available. 
The apparatus consists mainly of a 
framework of wood about 18 x 20 and 

this is enclosed by wire netting or heavy 
canvas, a bull's-eye is put up at the far 
end of each practice course, and the be- 
ginner drives off from a mat at the 
opposite end. The balls strike the bull's- 
eye and after dropping to the floor roll 
back to the player by means of a slightly 
inclined floor designed for this purpose. 
Here is undoubtedly a cue for the re- 
tailer who carries any type of sports 
wear. If there is a golf club in the vicin- 
ity of his town, there is a valuable oppor- 
tunity for him to open a practice course 
this winter at little cost for equipment 
and with only a moderate demand for 
space. By this means he can stimulate 
the sale of golf suits, sweaters and 
hosiery as well as the street clothing 
or formal clothes that many men seem 
to prefer in Canada for general wear. 
The presence of such a golf course in the 
town invests it with a decidedly metro- 
politan atmosphere and gradually, the 
name of the store observed on such 
things as smart neckwear, shirts or top 
coats, will come to be associated with 
that subtle something vaguely associat- 
ed with correctness in people's minds. 
Blumenthal Sons are planning to arrange 
special displays of new goods all round 
the course to serve both as a decorative 
feature as well as a means of promot- 
ing the sale of sports goods. The major- 
ity of golfers, it is stated, are constant- 
ly complaining of the dearth of suitable 
supplies in regular stores. The small 
town retailer therefore has an excellent 
opportunity provided he can obtain the 
requisite space to win to his store all 
the golf enthusiasts in his community. 

Getting Women's Trade in Addition 

The main object is to have the en- 
trance through the store and to play 
up the character of the store itself along 
with the sport. There is no reason why 
women should not become as numerous 
as men players, especially as they have 
more time to devote to the game, and a 
ladies' dressing room will prove an ap- 
preciated asset if possible. The women 
who natronize the indoor golf school 
will in all probability do as much pur- 
chasing as they Dossibly can in the store, 
in order to save time. If the store carries 
chauffeurs' supplies an invaluable oppor- 
tunity presents itself to display uniforms 
and accessories in a prominent corner 
of the golf course. 

The Union Clothing store is the name 
of a new business recently opened ;it 
267 St. Paul street, St. Catharines. 

R. H. & J. Dowler conducted a "Pros- 
perity Drive" sale in their four stores 
during the latter part of November. 

Dry Goods Review 



Novel Contest of Regina Trading Co. 

Gave Away Over 100 Tons of Coal Free — Managing Director 
Says It Resulted In Large Increase of Sales At Nominal Cost — 
Three Tons Given Away Each Day — Store Decorations In Har- 
mony — Rules of the Competition and Reasons For Holding it. 


1. Each voucher will ba dat'id, 
and must be presented to the Frea 
Coal Office on, or before, that 
date. Vouchers must not be accum- 

2. Each voucher when presented 
will be stamped with the time it 
was received. FIRST three vouch- 
ers presented giving nearest cor- 
rect estimates will win. 

3. A voucher is given with each 
full dollar you spend. Use transfer 
cards to get advantage of the odd 
amounts of your purchases. 

4. Employees of The Regina 
Trading Company are debarred 
from the competition. 

5. Should you not require coal 
you will be given instead a paid- 
up transfer shopping card to the 
value of the coal, $13.50. 

6. The vouchers you receive on 
Saturday, the first day, must be 
turned in to the Free Coal Office 
not later than Monday at 6 o'clock. 
The vouchers you receive on Mon- 
day must be turned in by Tuesday 
at 6 o'clock, and so on, during the 

7. You will estimate on Satur- 
day's voucher the number of words 
that will appear in Wednesday 
morning's advertisement. On Mon- 
day's vouchers you will estimate 
the number of words appearing in 
our Thursday advertisement, and 
so on. 

8. Each figure in the advertise- 
ments is to be count?d as a word 
(dollar and cent figures, as well 
as punctuation marks, such as 
dashes, rules, etc., are not count- 

9. Write your name and address 
plainly on each voucher. 

10. The correct estimate and the 
winners of each day will be pub- 
lished in The Evening Post. The 
announcement of the first winners 
will appear in Wednesday's Even- 
ing Post. 

11. The words of the advertise- 
ments will be counted by the Ad- 
vertising Department of The Lead- 
er Publishing Company, and re- 
checked by The Regina Trading- 

12. No one person will be allow- 
ed to receive more than 5 tons of 
coal during the entire competition. 

13. The coal supplied is being 
purchased from Whitmore Bros. — 
Gait Lump Coal, valued at $13.50 
a ton. 

14. Remember it costs you ab- 
solutely nothing to estimate in 
this competition 

flourishes on the spirit of compe- 
tition in contests has been tried 
out very successfully by the Regina 
Trading Co. Ltd., of Regina, Saskat- 
chewan. It was associated with some- 
thing that is a very great necessity in 
the western part of Canada — coal. Three 
tons of this precious substance were 
given away each day to three people 
who came nearest to guessing the exact 
number of words appearing in their 
daily advertisements. We need not go 
into a more elaborate explanation of the 
plan than is given elsewhere on this 
page in which the whole plan is outlin- 
ed and the rules of the competition giv- 
en in full. One or two things might b 
pointed out, however. The fact that 
each customer had to spend a dollar be- 
fore receiving a permit to vote would 
have the tendency, no doubt, to turn 
such purchases to the Regina Trading 
Co. when there was an off-chance th^ 
a free ton of coal would be forthcoming 
if the lucky guess were made. In the 
second place, it directed the attention 
of the reader to the advertisements ap- 
pearing daily over the name of the Re- 
gina Trading Co. That, of itself, was 
a good idea and would, doubtless, bring 
custom to the store aside altogether 
from the possibility of being a good 

How it Succeeded 

A. F. Little, secretary-treasurer and 
managing director of the firm, in writ- 
ing to Men's Wear Review regarding 
the plan and how it worked out said: "It 
has proven to be a splendid merchandis- 
ing scheme and gave us a large increase 
of sales at a very nominal cost. There 
being three winners each day receiving 
a ton of coal each, you can readily un- 
derstand the vast number of boosters 
there were as the competition progress- 
ed; neighbors conveyed the good news 
to neighbors, and it was a current topic 
of conversation. 

"Huge blocks of coal were placed 
throughout the various departments, 
and in our display window with the in- 
scription, 'Free Coal' written thereon in 
white letters. A free coal office was 
built on the main floor where vouch- 
ers were received." 

Many Contests Running 

During the month of December there 
have been many contests in progress 
over the country and there are those 
who believe it will be one of the factors 
of a successful business year during 
1922. This plan is worth studying. 


It is a fact that every progress- 
ive firm spends thousands of dol- 
lars each year to bring customers 
to their place of business. In 1921 
we are spending approximately 
$30,000 a year in advertising — 
commencing October 1st, and con- 
tinuing during the month, or un- 
til further notice, we have decided 
to adopt a new plan — a plan where- 
by our customers reap the bene- 
fit. Our aim is to give away 100 
tons of coal, which will be deliver- 
ed to your doors, should the win- 
ners live in the city. 

Each day, commencing October 
1st, we will give away 3 tons of 
coal — one ton to each of three cus- 
tomers who buy merchandise at cur 
store on that day. To determine 
who shall win this coal each day 
we have arranged this unique 

We are going to use on the back 
page of each issue of The Morning 
Leader, a space 17 inches square — - 
a different copy will appear each 
day — that is, new lines of merchan- 
dise will appear each day, or a 
new layout of copy. Each day's 
advertisement will be as nearly as 
possible an average advertisement, 
without cuts, such as appears in 
the press. The main headlines of 
each advertisement will be in large 
type; the headlines of each separ- 
ate line of merchandise will be in 
display and medium type. Our 
usual name plates will appear on 
the bottom of each advertisement. 
There will be no cuts of garments, 
or merchandise used in the display. 
The prices of lines advertised will 
be in heavy type figures in most 
instances. The balance of the body 
of the advertisement will appear 
in usual news type. This adver- 
tisement is a typical example of 
the advertisements that will ap- 

Commencing October 1st, and 
continuing until further notice, we 
will give to each customer a blank 
voucher for each dollar he or she 
spends in the store. On each vouch- 
er the customer may estimate the 
number of words appearing in our 
advertisement in the issue of The 
Leader three days hence. 

The first three correct estimates 
or nearest correct estimates, will 
entitle the owners of same to one 
ton of Gait Lump Coal free. 



Dry Goods Review 

The aeroplane used by the E. Plante Clothing Company in their scheme to 
attract custom by giving air-drives with purchases of merchandise at their store.* 

Aeroplane as a Business-Getter 

Ernest Plante Clothing Co. of Montreal Successfully Work Out 
Novel Plan — A Free Ride in the Air With a Twenty-five Cent Pur- 
chase — Getting New Customers and Holding Them — Will Enlarge 
Upon the Idea — Makes a Good Net Profit During the Time 

Scheme is in Operation 

WHAT is believed to be one of 
the most original "stunts" used 
in the men's wear field was that 
used by the Ernest Plante Clothing Co., 
161 Craig St. West, Montreal, P. Q. 
This idea is taking purchasers of goods 
in his store for a spin in an aeroplane. 
At first the offer was made that all 
purchasers of fifty dollars or more at 
one time would be given a ten minute 
trip in the plane out afterwards that 
arrangement was made thar all pur- 
chasers of twenty-five cents or more 
would be entitled to a trip. At first, 
one might think that this was a foolish 
move as many would com e in and make 
any kind of a small purchase and then 
ask to be given a ride, but such was not 
the case. While there were a few who 
asked to be taken up who had bought 
only a small amount of gods, the 
majority of the sales of would-be joy 
riders averaged at least two dollars. 

The idea of taking up anyone who 
made a purchase was that if onc e they 
started coming- to the store they would 
continue and it was this attractive offer 
that spread the news around and gave 
the stoi-e such wide advertising. With 
very few exceptions, customers who 
started to come to the store while the 
"stunt" was on and took advantage of 
the ride have continued to buy there. 
During the interview with Men's Wear 
Review, Mr. Plante told of four chaps 
who had been among the curious and 
wishing to have a rid e had made pur- 
chases, which totalled, did not exceed 
five dollars and yet all had their ride. 
Since their experience all have returned 
and are now regular customers and up 
to the time of the interview had spent 
over fifty dollars between them in fur- 
nishings.' "This," said Mr. Plante, "is 
where the idea pays the returns." 

The avei^age cost of each trip was 
twenty cents and while this was not 
always covered by the profit on the sale 
it was a wonderful advertisement. To 
further stimulate interest, Mr. Plante 
offered to all purchasers of fifty dol- 
lars or more to give them some stunt 
flying and to wind up the trip by cir- 
cling under the Victoria Bridge, which 
spans the St. Lawrence River, the bridge 
being a mile and a half long and hav- 
ing abutments every few hundred feet. 
There were only eight during the 
whole season who would chance this 
trip. This offer was only made after 
it had been decided to give the rides 
to the smaller purchasers also. 
A Good Net Profit 
The plane used was Canadian built 

and cost two thousand dollars at the 
point of building. Beside the pilot it has 
seating capacity for two passengers. As 
a result of the use of this plane the total 
sales in the Plante st re exceeded 
seventy-five thousand dollars for the 
time it was in use. After all costs had 
been figured and twenty per cent, al- 
lowed for the deterioration of the mach- 
ine, there was a net profit of three 
thousand eight hundred dollars. This 
result was very pleasing to Mr. Plante. 

While Mr. Plante does not personally 
take his customers for their rides, he is 
nevertheless, a capable pilot himself. 
He first took up flying himself in 
the city with a friend who had a plane 
and when he bought his own machine he 
drove it from Toronto to Montreal, him- 
self, after having been up in the air five 
hours previous to his star-ting on the 
trip. When the season closed, Mr. 
Plante had four machines in operation, 
these being used for commercial work 
throughout the city and province. As 
his first lieutentant, Mr. Plante has, in 
the person of J. A. Mondor. one of the 
cleverest pilots that served with the 
Canadian Air Force in France. 

To Expand Scheme 

It is Mr. Plante's intention, next year 
to put a ten passenger flying boat in 
this service and offer the free trips to 
the customers of the store as this year. 
This, in his opinion, will mean bigger 
business thon ever for the store. 

Mr. Plante succeeded his father in 
the business at his death, two years ago. 
"I am a great believer in these 'stunt' 

ideas," said Mr. Plante. "for they will 
cause people to look at your store when 
ordinary methods fail." One of the 
best advertising methods used was to 
drop pamphlets down occasionally from 
the plane over the business section of 
the city. There was no advertisement 
of this event carried in the daily news- 
papers, although our representative 
failed to learn the reason, but each 
month there was a full page used in 
an aero paper which is circulated among 
the Canadian pilots. Aside from this, 
Mr. Plante relied entirely on his window- 
advertising which played up the scheme 
to a very large extent. The store is 
located about twenty-five feet from one 
of the busiest comers in the city and 
there are people changing cars here at 
all hours of the day. 


Canadian dealers will shortly be offered 
the product of a new manufacturing organi- 
zation, though not a new firm. E. & S. 
Currie, Ltd., of Toronto, have installed the 
very latest machinery for the manufacture 
of suspenders, garters and arm bands and are 
bringing into being an organization that 
promises to be energetic in the prosecution of 
this new arm of their organization. The 
trade will soon be offered their new product 
as models are now well under way and ready 
f or showing. 

Currie's have let a contract for webbing 
for their new factory which is being made to 
their special order. Special attention is 
being devoted to trimmings, which will 
match, and to the metals used, which will be 
guaranteed rust proof. The standard 
length of their suspenders will be 38 inches. 

Dnj Goods Revievj 



No I. 

Ho 2. 

Paris Haberdashery In 

Figure 1 illustrate* a smart new 
shirt imported from Paris featur- 
ing the new ivide tucks and French 
double cuff*. This shirt is shown 
in hotli plain white pique or in per- 
cale with a striped front, and. is a 
popular style with well dressed men 
of Paris. 

Figure 2 shows some novelty 
braces made of tie silk with fasten- 
ing tabs of knitted silk. A single 
piece of elastic at the back provides 
sufficient stretch and comfort. 
These come in a variety of colors, 
mostly gay, as befits Parisian ori- 

Figure 3 is a new pyja/ma de- 
veloped in either silk or linen, 
striped in blue, fastened with white 
hand-made frogs. The monogram- 
med pocket is a novel touch. 

Figure U represents some start- 
ling but extremely artistic novelty 
handkerchiefs, featuring border 
((nd ring designs in a multitude of 
colors intermingled. 

Figure 5 typifies the style of un- 
derwear affected by men of France 
to accompany shirts of the same 
material, carrying out the "set" 
idea. Pyjamas may also be ob- 
tained in the same patterns. The 
waisted effect is particularly 
strong at present in Paris. 

Figure G depicts two of the new- 
est ideas in silk handkerchiefs for 
men. The various colors used are 
blended softly together until blues 
greens, orange and reds are scarce- 
ly distinguishable in a faint blur, 
like Dresden china. The creators 
name this novelty the "lava" de- 

All novelties sketched by our ar- 
tist at the Exhibit of French Pro- 
ducts by courtesy of M. Chassagne 
of Montreal, who represents the 
nuikers, J. Hay em et Cie, of Farm, 

Ho 4. 

No. 5 





Dry Goods Review 

Find It Necessary To "Keep On Our Toes" 

So Say Scott & Foster Of Smiths Falls 

Large Part of Their Business Is With the Railway Men — Do Not 

Find That Sensational Methods Have Much Effect With This 

Class of Trade — Conservative Methods Preferred 


HERE is only one worth whiie 
location for the men's wear 
shop in a small town and that 
is close to the post office and the mov- 
ies. If located conveniently to both 
places the retailer gets the benefit of a 
steady stream of pedestrians at all 
hours of the day and evening, and many 
of these will be glad of the opportunity 
to study a good display of new merchan- 
dise if they have a few minutes to put 
in before the mail arrives or the sec- 
ond show commences." Such is the 
opinion of H. G. Scott, of the firm of 
Scott & Foster of Smiths Falls, Ont., 
expressed during an interview with a 
member of the staff of Dry Goods Re- 

Caters to Railway Men 

In a town such as Smiths Falls which 
is a prominent railway centre through 
which pass daily transcontinental lines 
in four directions, there is naturally a 
large population of railway men who 
require a considerable amount of mer- 
chandise suited to their individual needs, 
both for work and leisure requirements. 
How t» cater most satisfactorily to this 
important class of customers is the 
question which Scott & Foster have set 
themselves to answer in a practical 

Keeping Up Turnover 

"We are finding business good," ex- 
plained Mr. Scott, "but we must keep 
on our toes constantly to give the best 
service demanded. This place is known 
as a 'mail-order terminal' which means 
that it is a distributing point for the 
many thousands of catalogues which 
come through for this section of the 
country, and consequently, we have our 
strongest competitor right in the 
freight cars which unload their contents 
into our local post office. As may be 
imagined the advent of the catalog 
is the signal for local merchants to 
speed up their efforts to offer exception- 
al prices, ,and that we have not yet gone 
behind in turnover is proof of the fact 
that our efforts are not in vain. Our 
most successful plan of combating the 
probem is merely to supply the self- 
same merchandise at a few cents less 
and lay the goods before the customer 
as proof. The catalogue pictures al- 
ways look so inviting and attractive, yet 
the merchandise never seems to come up 
to expectations somehow." 

"Railway men are good spenders." 
continued Mr. Scott, "and they want 
the best, whether it is for work or for 
play. They also appreciate truthful ad- 
vertising in any form and are quick to 
criticise any attempt at misrepresenta- 
tion. They are not like the farmers 

who want more value than ever for their 
dollar but ask merely for a square deal, 
that is to say, the best kind of goods 
procurable and they make no kick about 
the price but prefer to look over things 
themselves. We have found the best way 
of selling working gloves, for example, 
is to keep a full range of the wanted 
kinds in a small fixture right beside the 
front dooor, where a man can see at a 
glance the kind he wants, can try them 
on himself and has o^y to bring them 
over to be wrapped and change given if 
necessary. There is scar?e'y a day that 
this convenient little salesman does not 
dispose of several pairs of gloves and 
the idea of 'help yourself is probably 
the reason." 

"We have found that sensational 
stunts carry no weight with this class 
of custom," continued Mr. Scott, "and 
for this reason we do not feature sales 
of any sort, any clearances that may be 
desired being effected by sharp price 
cutting in the ordinary way." 

Ties and Jewellery Accessible 
Appearance counts for much in the 
store also, and a cheery bright atmos- 
phere fairly radiates from it. The walls 
are calsomined a soft green with a con- 
ventional border stencilled in black. 
Table displays of bright scarlet sweat- 
ers here and there picked out in yellow 
or white provide a note of striking con- 
trast as well. All the merchandise is 
under glass with the exception of neck- 
wear and jewellery articles, which are 
displayed upon the usual racks easily 
accessible to the customer who desires 
to try the effect of several different 
kinds. The partners believe that ties 
should be close to the hands of custom- 
ers not to be admired at a distance, and 
they also feel that such small articles 
as studs, cuff links or collar pins are 
twice as interesting when they can be 
picked up and examined closely than 
they are when viewed through glass. 
These are goods which appeal to a man's 
sense of vanity if you will, and are not 
so much necessities as impulse mer- 
chandise, bought without previous 
thought being given to the need for the 
article. When a shirt is being sold, 
how easy it is to slip one of the new 
monogrammed cuff buttons into the but- 
tonhole and let the customer judge of 
the effect. Few men can resist an ad- 
ditional purchase presented in this way, 
be they railway men or business men. 
There is no need to say much in intro- 
ducing goods in this manner, for the 
mere act of showing the combination 
of the studs with the shirt or a tie-clip 
with a cravat, or a silk muffler inside an 
overcoat should be sufficient. In fact 

there is no class of merchandise which 
cannot be effectively supplemented with 
some little extra, and it is the total cost 
of these little extras which help to roll 
up a goodly amount in '.ollars and cent? 
in the course of the year. 

The Friendly Spirit 

Friendliness wins customers in a rail- 
way town, too, explained Mr. Scott, be- 
cause most of the men like to be called 
by their first names and dislike the term 
"Mister" as savoring of "high-browness." 
Even though customer and store-keeper 
may not be friends of life-long stand- 
ing, they are usually "Tom" or "Jack" 
to one another before very long. Court- 
esy to customers is insisted on as one 
of the primary principles of merchandis- 
ing in the Scott & Foster store and al- 
though familiarity is encouraged, there 
is not the slightest fear that its at- 
tendent failing of lack of respect may 
become noticeable in the relations be- 
tween customers and sales staff. 

Conservative Methods Preferred 

As an example of the rare efforts 
made by Scott & Foster to employ meth- 
ods savoring of the unusual was cited an 
instance when they gave away fountain 
pens with boys' suits. The pens were 
exceptionally good, yet no greater busi- 
ness was done than would have been or- 
dinarily the case and ever since the 
firm has found it unnecessary to stim- 
ulate their particular class of trade by 
such means. "The wives of railway men 
are thrifty and capable buyers but are 
among the best customers any store 
can wish for," said Mr. Scott. "They 
want smart, good quality merchandise 
whether it is for son, father or brother, 
and they are willing to pay for it with- 
out quibbling over prices." 

In the fiscal year 1921, wool export ship- 
ments from Canada totalled in value $2,168,- 
256, and in 1920, $5,472,236. In 1921, 7,- 
128,065 pounds went to the United ftates, 
130,169 to the United Kingdom, and 29,689 
to Newfoundland. In the year previous 
8,859,682 pounds were exported to the Un- 
ited States, 195.081 to the United Kingdom, 
and 29,964 to Newfoundland. Canada has, 
however, always been the principal market 
and consumer of her own wool products and 
still remains so. It is worthy of note that 
up to the Middle of October, sales cf the 
Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers to the 
Canadian trade exceeded the total sales of 
last season by some 500,000 pounds. 

W. H. Cole has opened up a men's 
wear store at Bowmanville, Ontario. 

llni Goods Review 





HERE is something par- 
ticularly pleasurable in 
the sensation of awaiting a 
surprise, of anticipating new 
and delightful things. The 
world, in its industrial sense, 
revolves by seasons, and in 
the particular industries 
which cater to the adorn- 
ment of the Canadian wo- 
man there are but two which 
signify, the openings of 
which are awaited much as 
an expectant audience 
awaits the rise of the curtain upon a new play. 

And so each year there are but two acts in the 
drama of fashion, the Spring and Fall seasons — 
Spring eternally youthful, evanescent and joyous; 
Autumn bedecked in scarlet and gold, the pomp 
of maturity. In Spring the desire to be free of 
Winter's restrictions leads us inevitably to fling 
aside cumbersome wraps and furs and to don col- 
ors such as Nature herself puts on in early May. 
The new season is now slowly revealing herself 
to us accompanied by an entire concourse of 
charming possibilities in the matter of dress and 
its accessories. 

And as if in realization of the fact that so 
many perplexing problems have been happily 
solved, while others are on the high road to solu- 
tion, the guiding minds of industry have evolved 
products which express the universal longing to 
be free from the "Winter of our discontent." Can- 
ada's workrooms once more are busy and from 
them are pouring forth such captivating novelties 
— dainty, original, artistic, in honour of this return 
of Spring. 

But though certain rules of fashion may be 
decreed, it must be remembered that the last word 
is seldom if ever pronounced, despite all the boasts 
heralded as the "dernier cri de Paris," so that 
throughout everv month of the twelve, many 
?mall additional style points, subtle variations 
upon color effects or lines are worked out by 
versatile brains and fingers. And these are de- 
veloped gradually as Spring gives way to Sum- 
mer, towards the one end of achieving individual 
distinction and even perfection. 

Then too, there are innumerable delights to 
contemplate in the matter of accessories both for 
the costume and the home — all those little but 
vastly important trifles which have such tremen- 
dous value in the achievement that becomes fin- 
ally, the perfect whole. It does not pay to lose 
sight of a single delightful change, for, after all, 
the perfect garden is that one in which the beauty 
is constantly renewed, in which, by the time the 
tulips and lilacs are beginning to fade and lose 
their fragrance, the rosy shoots of peonies are 
well out of the ground ; in which, when the 

peonies have in turn ceased 
to bloom, the golden rod is 
almost out. Thus, there are 
always flowers to pick, dif- 
ferent ones from month to 
month. So the discovery of 
each new and delightful 
change adds the happiest 
zest to the inspiriting busi- 
ness of accenting feminine 
individuality for each is a 
foil to set off the nuances of 

To those who follow the 
intriguing flux of the every varying mode, DRY 
GOODS REVIEW offers in the following pages 
a selection of representative models of many and 
diverse kinds, which have been chosen here and 
there as typical of the best that Canadian makers 
have devised for Spring 1922. It is no mere idle 
phrase that is used throughout the country in ref- 
erence to the approaching season. All retailers 
will have to make very special efforts to mer- 
chandise goods during the Spring months, bear- 
ing in mind the fact that there is still a marked 
tendency on the part of consumers to buy with 
care and discrimination with a keen eye on price 
tickets. Retailers of dry goods and kindred lines 
however, have one powerful aid, namely, the dic- 
tates of Dame Fashion. Style is the one quality 
which can create sales and which enhances the 
value of the merchandise in the eyes of the con- 

How to buy style goods so as to have what his 
public will accept, is the special aim of the suc- 
cessful merchant. To do this, he must have an in- 
timate knowledge of fashions as well as of styles. 
It should be remembered that fashions are created 
in Paris and are variously adapted and modified 
on this continent developing into "styles" as we 
know them. The merchandise illustrated in the 
Art Section which follows, has been selected be- 
cause it is the kind of merchandise created by 
Canadians for Canadian women and their homes, 
interpreting the mode in all its various branches, 
whether in ready-to-wear, millinery, gloves, un- 
derwear or house furnishings, and most of all, be- 
cause it is the kind of merchandise that retailers 
throughout this country will want to buy and sell. 
It is essential that the merchant should study the 
trend of the new fashion and its style variations 
that he may go ahead with confidence during the 
months of spring. 

Complete summaries of the mode in its different 
lines will be found in the various sections of this 
issue, and a close study of the facts thus presented 
will demonstrate that all are admirably exempli- 
fied in the numerous illustrations which embellish 
this annual Spring number. 


Dry Goods Revit » 

Biot Again 

HpHIS Toronto girl is wearing a 
-*■ toque of black cellophane straw 
with a mount of orange biot feath- 
ers. It is a particularly chic hat 
for a young model. ■ — SHOWN By 
The Dominion Ostrich Feather 
Company, Limited, Toronto. 


are the latest fashion note whether 
on gloves, hose or hats. Here an 
unusual treatment of narrow tubu- 
lar silk is woven to show checks 
of navy blue and grey on a In- 
coming upturned brim. The hat is 
developed in taffeta with a soft 
crown. — Hat Shown by Courtesy 
of Debenham's (Canada) Ltd., of 

Drv Goods Review 



Peacock Blue 

was the delightful Spring color em- 
ployed to develop this smart hat of 
tuhular braid and Givs de Lon- 
dres silk. The upturned brim is 
shaped in the new batwing outline 
pierced with a metal arrow. The 
crown is softly draped. This par- 
ticular type of hat is almost uni- 
versally becoming to youthful faces 
and is designed for wearing at a'l 
informal affairs. — Hat BY Cour- 
tesy of Farrell Belisle and Com- 
pany of Montreal. 

'TPHIS unusual little model of 
-*■ black slipper satin is designed, 
in petal-shaped tabs which arc /e/ 1 
supple to conform to the decree 
for softness of outline. A double 
chain of jet bugles dangles non- 
chalantly over the right car t> 
prove that beads are quite correct 
in any position. — Hat by Courtesy 
of Debenham's (Canada) Ltd.. 



Dry Goods Review 

A French Creation 

By Basselin-Villetard. This tri- 
corne is of allover haircloth and 
the feathers so charmingly arrang- 
ed are biot. It is all black and one 
of those models which are becoming 
to almost every face. — Shown by 
D. McCall Company, Limited, 




/? 1 






/ ( I ] 


iv -™ 



• \Jr? 


\ U " 


^^^ am 





Paris Sponsors the J'eil 

and when it is draped over a close- 
fitting hat of navy cellophane 
stratv with an applique of velvet 
roses, one's appearance is beyond 
reproach. The embroidery on the 
veil is especially effective. — Hat 
and Veil by Farrell, Belisle Co., 
of Montreal. 

Dry Goods Review 



Approved by Parisiennes 

HpHE extreme simplicity of cut 
■*- and the unusual embroidery 
about the classic square neck and 
elbow sleeves, make this chemise 
de nuit distinctive and charming. 
The little cap which accompanies 
it is developed in a combination of 
sheer net, filet and Valenciennes 
laces with little iving-like exten- 
sions that are stiffened to stand 
out from the wearer's profile. The 
edge is encircled with satin ribbon 
to match one's negligee. — Gown 
and Cap from J. Hayem and Cie 
of Paris, France. — Shown by 
Courtesy of M. Chassagne, of 

Pyjamas Are The Thing 

T^VERY woman going South this 
- L/ year has at least one set of 
pyjamas in her wardrobe trunk. 
They are seen in every style and 
in all colors. 

This one is of a wonderful color — 
a blue which is midway between a 
spray and a Venice blue. Baby 
Irish insertion is combined with 
hand-embroidered net. The frilly 
edging of the crepe itself makes 
it one of the most alluring gar- 
ments of the year. — Shown by 
Ladies' Wear Limited, Toronto. 



Dry Goods He-view 

A Novelty Negligee 

'T^HE Canadian trade is looking 
-*■ now-a-days for novelties such 
us are seen in Paris or Neiv York. 
This garment of crepe de chine is 
closed at the bottom. It slips over 
the head with an opening for the 
feet at the sides. Domes fasten the 
openings securely, makina this 
negligee a delightful coverall. It is 
made in all the pastel shades. — 
Shown by the Lingerie Company 
of Canada, Toronto. 

Lingerie of Gossamer 

is here portrayed for the Spring 
ivardrobe. The seated model is 
wearing one of the neivest slio-on 
tailored corset covers of pale flesh 
crepe de chine, made with a doubl? 
yoke and filet medallion, insert. The 
step-in draivers are also of crepe 
de chine with an elastic ivaist, 
edged irith fine ecru net lace. The 
straight combination worn by the 
other model is of crepe de chine 
trimmed with fine ecru lace, while 
the waist is slightly gathered by a 
pastel-tinted ribbon tie. Both the 
combination and the cover feature 
the new neck lines shoivn for next 
season. — Lingerie from the Kas- 
sab Kimona Company of Mon- 

Dry Goods Review 



They Go In Sets 

'"PHIS year most manufacturers 
-*■ of fine lingerie arc making 
complete sets instead of separate 
garments. These knickers and 
chemise in pink crepe de chine. The 
points are put into the seams by 
hand. — Shown by Ladies' Wear, 
Limited, Toronto. 

With Summer Frocks 

this underskirt of white wash-satin 
should be very desirable. The con- 
trasting border may be of black, 
pink, red, blue, mauve, yellow or 
grey. The double hemstitching and 
the scalloped edge are two very at- 
tractive features of this petticoat. 
— Shown by H. P. Ritchie Com- 
pany, Limited, Toronto. 



Dry Goods R'-vieiv 

The Indispensable Sweater 

serves a two-fold purpose when it is worn with a smart 
skirt of knitted wool in a smart contrasting shade. This 
simple but practical costume is entirely knitted and com- 
bines a tuxedo coat of black with a skirt of white pin- 
striped in black. The business woman as well as the f 'or- 
dinate visitor to mountains or seaside will find a knitted 
costume an invaluable possession. — Costume by Courtesy 
of Knitters Limited op Montreal. 


By 1* f5£n wl M 



y VI 

y mm 


Her Sunday Dress 

Above — This charming little frock is desigyied for smaV 
tots from two to four gears of age. It is of fine white 
over underslip of silk. The latter may be blue, white, pink 
or yellow. Valenciennes lace and insertion along with 
two-toned ribbon to blend with the color of the slip, 
make it a simple but effective little garment for best 

occasions. — Shown" by H. P. Ritchie Company, Limited. 


Left — This unusual little suit is named the Butterfly Capi 
Coat by reason of its wing-like sleeve effect. Although it 
is nothing but a short cape, yet. by reason of its unique 
design, it passes muster as a box coat. Underneath is 
worn a simple sleeveless frock of Poiret twill, the entin 
costume being of navy blue with b'aek horn buttons and 
silk tassels. The lining is of gaily patterned Radium silk. — 
Costume by Lazare & Novek of Montreal. 

Dry Goods R 





in immaculate white velours knickers ar.d smart coat of 
emerald green, the sports woman is well equipped for the 
links. The same natty outfit is appropriate for riding or 
any outdoor sport. The knickers are finished with a deep 
cuff at the knee which is covered by the woollen hose. — 
Costume by Courtesy ok Greenberg, Smith Company, 

The severity of a sports suit often requires the softening 
influence of a hand-made blouse of white voile, hand- 
drawn and with the collar and cuffs edged with real filet 
lace. Fashion insists that the blouse be tailored and 
hand-made if possible for the coming summer. — Blouse 
from the American Waist and Dress Company, Mon- 
treal. I i 

Sweet Sixteen 

She will look enchanting in this ultra new frock or navy 
a/nd tan creponge fabric with its novel cowl collar. The 
sliaht flare of the cuffs and the lowered waist line are 
typical of Spring fashion dictates. — FROCK TROM THE M. 
Gardner Comfany of Montreal. 



Dry Goods Review 

"Miss Springtime" 

T) IGHT — One of the smartest furs on the choker 
*^-<yrder is the stone marten. This girl is wearing a 
two-skin marten., light and dark shades of which are 
particularly effective with a Spring costume. — 
Shown by the W. N. Ward Company, Toronto. 

Cape-Dress For the Very Young Lady 

\ BOVE — New York is showing many models for 
■^ * the little girl and the one who has jtist reached 
her teens, like those for the older woman. While 
this one is after the style of grown-ups, it is very 
youthful. It is of navy taffeta with hand-embroidery 
in a contrasting shade. Though designed originally 
for street wear, many buyers intend to feature it 
for afternoons during the next two months. — Shown 
by Dresses Limited, Toronto. 

Snail Shells Are Decreed by Paris! 

"n\IFFICULT to believe that the delicate and pearl- 
*-^ like shell clusters so effectively used on this 
smart Spring hat of brown cellophane and cire 
satin really belong to the humble snail, but such is 
indeed the case. The superb neckpiece is of European 
Fitch in double strand effect which can be worn in 
many different ways and is ideal as the summer 
fur "par excellence." — Hat Shown by Courtesy op 
the Exclusive Hat Company of Montreal, and 
the Neckpiece by Courtesy op Boulter Waugh 
Company op Montreal. 

Drjj Goods Review 



The Finishing Touch 

io the Spring costume is added when a pair of French kid 
skin gauntlets neatly strapped at the wrist are worn. The 
fit and finish of the new French kid gloves is a marked fea- 
ture of this season. Together with gloves the woman of 
fashion must possess a new bag and nothing more attractive 
and appropriate can be selected than this new model of black 
moire silk, lined in beige corded silk. The shape is altogether 
new, combining a soft effect with a snap purse in the centre 
A slender cord provides the correct note by which the ba r i 
is suspended from the arm. — Gloves from the Alexandre 
Glove Company of Paris — Bag from the Federated Lea- 
ther Company of Montreal. 

When April Showers Come 

Madame may select one of these new umbrellas with 
which to ward off the unwelcome drop;*. The three 
models with convenient attachments for carrying will 
commend themselves to up-to-date women, there being 
a model for every occasion, formal or informal. A 
striking example of a ivell designed umbrella for men 
is shown in the handle of curved design, fitted with a 
simple gold band for engraving. — -UMBRELLAS BY COUR- 
TESY of the Eclipse Umbrella Company of Mon- 

The Elusive Handkerchief 

will ever be at its j)ossessor's beck and call when it is 
dropped into such an intriguing little bag as this one, 
which matches exactly its owner's smart little hat. 
Developed in black Canton creoc end decorated with 
ribbon roses, bag and hat are easily detected as dating 
from Spring 1922. — Hat and Bag FROM Farrell, Bel- 
isle Company, Montreal. 



Dry Goods Review 

A Canadian Idea 

To answer the demand for silk hose no matter 
how cold the weather and to give a certain amount 
of warmth, this stocking has been made double. The 
inner one is of cotton and the outer silk. They are 
attached only at the seam at back and along the 
foot. The cotton gives an added histre tj the silk. 
The greatly reinforced toe and heel is another fea- 
ture. — Made by the Allen Silk Mills, Toronto. — 
Patent Applied For. 

For Indoors or Outdoors 

This simply designed knitted coat will be equally 
suitable. Developed in an effective mixture of silk 
ayid ivool in shot effect, its shaggy colloyr and cuffs 
impart a charmingly youthful appearance. The 
length is another smart point about it and the color 
is a soft dull blue through which a fleck of whiU 
is just perceptible. — FROM THE FAINER KNITTING 

Company of Montreal. 







!£* . 

:.*£■&& \ 

For the Bride's 

Here are two new 
kinds of curtains char- 
acterized by simplicity 
and good taste. The 
right hand one is of 
mercerized marquisette, 
hemstitched and trim- 
med with insertion and 
dado of fine filet late 
in rose and butterfly 
design, finished with 
real linen lace edging. 
The curtain at the left 
illustrates a unique and 
novel method of apply- 
ing border trimmin /.- 
by a "zig-zag" much inc. 
The entire trimming of 
this model is real liru n 
lace so that it is one 
of the most practical 
and durable curtain* 
made. — Both Designs 
ORiGiNATEr &• Shown 
by Courtesy of Daly 
& Morin Company of 

Dry Goods Re 




THESE three bags were chosen as representative of some of the Spring designs in handbag lore. The one on 
the left is the newest type of swagger, made in beaver calf with safety overlapping frame and flap. The 
centre one is a beauty bag in fancy hippo leather and the bag on the right is of velvet crocodile leather, featur- 
ing a new sliding mirror. — Shown by Western Leather Goods Company, Limited, Toronto. 

HERE are six striking new examples of gloves for next winter illustrating new dress and sports effects. The 
first pair shown are one pearl dome pique kid with the new premier points, shown in staple shades. The 
fringed wool gauntlets are in angora wool with a wide ribbed cuff. The third pair are of mocha with elastic 
wrist and heavy trimming of real fur and a wool lining. A new strap wristed gauntlet is shown next, also trim- 
med with fur and made in sable and slate mocha. The fifth pair are of washable kid in pale pastel shades for dress 
occasions, finished with fine black stitching. Last of all is shown a striking novelty in heavy pure wool gauntlets 
for winter sports featuring a checked cuff in several colo rs. The gloves shown feature yellow upon white. — Gloves 
Shown by Courtesy op Dent, Allcroft and Company of Montreal. 



Dry Goods Review 



Cushions, hangings: 
and artistic bed cov- 
erings are to a room 
what gloves, hat and 
neckwear are to a 
costume. It is the 
final touch achieved 
by the use of the 
right accessories 
that imparts a smart 
appearance both to 
madame herself and 
to her boudoir. So, 
these superb cush- 
ions, covered in 
brocades, rich silks 
and damasks as well 
as the magnificent 
down puff depicted 
in the centre, also of 
French damask with 
a panel figured in a 
shadow effect, will 
provide that exclus- 
ive note to Madame 's 
room, bespeak'ng ut- 
ter comfort iv con- 
junction with all 
that is artistic and 
novel. — Cushions 
and Puff from" 
Greenshields, Ltd.. 

For the Homebuilder 

Black warp colored Scotch 
madras, in closely woven tex- 
ture resembling the weave of 
an expensive tapestry. This 
beautiful design can be pur- 
chased in royal blue, old gold, 
mulberry, sage green and 
light gold grounds with con- 
trasting color combinations. 
Shown by Alexander Jam- 
ieson and Co., Toronto. 

Dry Goods Revit w 



Hand Blocked Print made in 
France especially for Ca adian 
trade, in three different designs, 
among which such brilliant effects 
as mustard, cream, blue and black 
are employed as grounds with vari- 
colored foliage and bird designs 
used as contrasts. The remarkable 
feature about these superb drap- 
eries is their price which is 
less than one dollar a, yard for 30 
inch widths, a matter of 33 per 
rent lcs than the price °f regular 
block prints. — Shown Exclusively 
by Daly and Morin Company of 

The Art of Making 

Windows Beautiful 

can be easily learned when such 
beautiful reproductions of Euro- 
pean panellings are obtainable. The 
curtain on the right is of fine mar- 
quisette, inset with filet crochet in- 
sertion and motifs, each section be- 
ing ten inches wide but vat ying in 
depth up to 2V 2 yards long. The 
curtain on the left is a striking 
sectional voile panel of real linen 
lace treated with filet and Point 
Venice motif fs. Each section is 
11% inches wide. For the stately 
reception hall or the period draw- 
ing room could anything more ef- 
fective be devised. — Created and 
Shown by Courtesy of Daly & 
Morin Company of Montreal. 



J>rij Goods Review 

\ T ERY clever shades are now made 
* for the ivory lamps which pleased 
the trade so well last Fall. This shade 
of dark blue georgette over gold satin 
is modelled on the lines of the night- 
lamps which are so popular. — SHOWN 
By French Ivory Products Limited. 

A Canadian Truck 

n^IIIS truck is just like one for grown-ups-. The pedis 
-*- are well made and carcfidly put together. It is paint- 
ed in blue and red. — Shown by the Coleman Fare Box 
Company. Limited, Toronto. 

NEARLY all of the ivory articles made for this Spring are distinctively novel — they must be in order to attract business 
to a line which has had a run for so long. The tlower-bas; ct and the tray illustrated here are of ivory woven to resemble 
wicker. The two powder holders attached to the tray are alco novelties. The man's collar box is a new departure in the 
manufacture of ivory. — Shown by Carl Austin and Company, Toronto. 



Interesting 117 A T^ A. C* C* ^"\ /*** f\ T* TP ^\ TWT O in the 

Display of 


Offices of 

Alphonse Racine Limited 

Trade Mark Reg'd 

/^\NE of the finest displays of Wabasso 
Cottons ever made in Canada was 
in the General Offices of this progressive 
wholesale house, who, as large distributors 
of Wabasso Cottons, adopted this new and 
enterprising method of prominently display- 
ing this line. 

The Wabasso Cotton Company 


Three Rivers, P.Q. 











145 Carling Si 


50 Wellington St 

44 Years Established 

Alphonse Racine Limited 

Growing With Canada 

RETAINING our many old customers, 
OBTAINING many new customers, 
MAINTAINING the confidence of both old and new 
by Service for Satisfaction. 

Do You Know Our Personnel? 

during 1922 we purpose 

Describing The 14 Different Departments 


Introducing to You the Manager of Each Department 

DEPT. A — Staple Cottons — Domes- 
tic and Imported, Whites and 
Greys, Sheetings, Pillow Casings, 
Shirtings, Apron Cloths, Tickings, 
Batting, etc., etc. 

DEPT. Ax — Flannelettes — Cotton 
Yarns, Pound Goods, and special 
jobs of all kinds in cotton piece 

Location — Just inside the main 
entrance turn to your right, three 
Separate Departments in one Big 


Manager Depts. "A" and "Ax* 



72 Bay Stree. 



Lister Chrabrs. 


C. B. 

269 Charlotte St. 


N. S. 
119 Roy Bldg. 

Manufacturers and Wholesale Distributors of Dry Goods 

60-98 St. Paul St. West, Montrea 

FACTORIES:-Beaubien St. Montreal, 
St. Denis, Que., St. Hyacinthe, Que. 




are absolutely certain 
with — 

(DO A AAA A A McLean and Garland, 

«pZU,UUU.UU Winnipeg, Man. 

(SHC A AAA AA Belleveau P eace Co., 

«PUU,UUU.UU Winnipeg, Man. 

$15,000.00 Calgary, Alberta. 

$15,000.00 "^"'S o*. 

(t?£C AAA AA MaxBeauvais 

«PU0,UUU.UU Montreal, Quebec. 

The T. K. Kelly Sales System 


U. S. A. 




Dry Goods Review 

New homespun patterns which are meeting with approval in New York. 

They co-me in a wide range of colors and combinations of colors. Shown 

by Hawthorne Mills, Carleton Place, Ont. 

Many New Crepy Weaves in Silks 

Montreal Houses Show New Materials For More Elaborate Gowns 

For the Trousseaux — High Colors in Georgette — French Sports 

Wear Silks Among the Spring Offerings — Silk Jersey in 56 Inch 

Width— A New Synthetic Silk 

THE crepy weaves in silk are to be 
the leaders next Spring and Sum- 
mer, if present indications are to 
be relied upon, according to Montreal 
silk importers. But this must not be 
taken to mean that there will be no 
change to speak of in the existing de- 
mand in which crepe weaves take a 
prominent part. Instead, it is thought 
that Cantons of the regulation type will 
take second place in preference to crepe 
satins, crepe morrocain, crepe radio and 
"onde faconne," which last resembles a 
brocaded crepe and is very sumptuous 
and unusual. These fabrics are of course 
destined for more elaborate gowns and 
will undoubtedly be included in all the 
smart trousseaux of 1922, but at the 
same time, it is interesting to note that 
crepe de chines are coming back better 
than ever, particularly in high shades, 
and the demand even at this early date 
augurs well for the success of a color- 
ful season to supersede the prolonged 
session of all black to which devotees 
of fashion have remained so long faith- 

Orders received toy leading wholesalers 
this month for crepe weaves are far 
greater in volume than for any other 
class of silk, and crepe de chine ranks 
with taffeta in popularity with the 
average trade to such an extent that it 
would appear as though all lingerie, 
waists and frocks for Spring are to be 
made of this material if the supply is 
to be absorbed. The high colors will 
have the preference in georgette too, 
as well as in crepe de chine, and the 
former fabric will come out of its semi- 
obscurity for the purpose of forming 
effective trimmings to the more sombre 
note of the gowns and blouses them- 
selves. "Georgette is the only satis- 
factory answer to the universal demand 
for something cool and serviceable for 
hot weather wear," remarked a silk 
importer to Dry Goods Review, "and 
whether it is decreed by fashion or not, 
it simply cannot be improved upon for 
supplying a dressy garment requiring 
a minimum of trouble in keeping it 

Crepes For Sports Wear 

Fancy crepe weaves for sports wear 
are now offered for Summer selling, and 
these are featured in heavier weaves 
than in other years. An important 
shipment of French sports si'ks is due 
to arrive in Montreal shortly, in which 
many stunning checked effects will be 
offered. Krepe-Knit or Chinchilla-Knit, 
as it is more commonly known in Can- 
ada, is assured of a wide popularity for 
all manner of frocks on account of its 

extremely practical nature and dura- 
bility. It could not have been expected 
that tricolette should survive another 
season of supreme leadership, and hap- 
pily Chinchilla-Knit cloth comes just in 
time to form a satisfac orv subs itute. 
The colors in which it is offered are all 
leading shades in the Textile Color 
Association's list and include bobolink, 
verdigris, (which is the new name for 
jade) fuchsia, peacock, hollyhock, prun- 
ella, bon-fire, wall-flower and rubellite. 
Tile blue is said t > be the most popular 
shade for next summer While the three 
candy shades, especially "fudge" and 
"taffy" brown will be close seconds. 

Taffetas will be in demand in the 
usual shades, especially in navy, black 
and nigger brown, while for novelty 
purposes and for the quaint old-fash- 
ioned style of frocks, the new sprigged 
taffetas in "Raye" effect are considered 
very promising. The latter ran?e are 
generally in white grounds striped in 
black with gay little nosegays liberally 
besprinkled over the striping. 

Silk Jerseys Now 56 Inches Wide 

Silk jersey is again shown in white, 
navy and black only, in a 56 inch width, 
which is decidedly satisfactory for mak- 
ing sports skirts, etc. This new jersey 
has a ribbed back and is of British man- 
ufacture, greatly superior to any ether 
line yet receved here. 

More Artificial Silk 

There will be a greater amount of ar- 
tificial silk than usual offered to the 
trade and these fabrics are always sure 

of a warm welcome on account of their 
striking appearance. Radium-glo, the 
latest development in British made ar- 
tificial silks, features a shot effect 
which enhances still more the natural 
glossy surface of the material. Speaking 
to an authority on silk fabrics, a staff 
member of Dry Goods Review was in- 
formed that these artificial silks are no 
longer a thing of the future; they have 
arrived. "The worst thing about arti- 
ficial silk," said this man, "is its name. 
It should be called constructed or syn- 
thetic fibre. There is more artificial 
silk than natural silk being produced to- 
day, and in ten years from now I think 
there will be 25 times as much arti- 
ficial silk as natural silk produced. Take 
the knitting trades alone, they consume 
a great volume c f this fibre, for about 
90 per cent, of the knitted silk sweaters 
we see to-day a e of artificial silk." 

An Interesting Novelty 

There is a new synthetic silk on the 
market which has recently been brought 
out by a leading Scotch firm. It is 
claimed for this knitted fabric that, un- 
like artificial silk, it is made, not from 
wood fibre, but from a wool base; that 
it is practically as warm as wool, and 
that it will wash like linen without any 
shrinkage, retaining its silk like gloss- 
iness, after washing and ironing. The 
shades are guaranteed sunfast and wash- 
able. This new material comes in a 
number of different weights, construc- 
tions and patterns suitable for under 
Continued on page 113 

Dry Goods Review 



Domestic Fabrics For Spring 

Mills Are Well Sold Up on Spring Materials— Knitted Tweed Will 

Be Very Popular — Many New Colors Are Introduced — Price Will 

Be Drawing Card — Homespuns Again Strong 

TWO DOMESTIC made fabrics will 
be an outstanding feature of the 
dress goods trade in 1922, accord- 
ing to a prominent Ontario manufactur- 
er interviewed this month by a staff 
member of Dry Goods Review. "We are 
completely sold up on homespuns and 
jersey cloths for next spring and are 
receiving enquiries from New York re- 
garding both fabrics. Many of our new 
designs for next season are regarded as 
too extreme for the trade on this side 
of the border but the New York makers 
are eager for them. In this line-up of 
knitted fabrics we expect knitted tweed 
to be the most popular in all its differ- 
ent shades, showing a Donegal fleck just 
like the regulation imported material. 
But this knitted tweed wnl wear infinite- 
ly better, will never sag or stretch or 
wear smooth and will be ideal for busi- 
ness women and sports wear by anyone." 


The price of these new fabrics is an- 
other great point in their favor. As 
the process of manufacture is infinitely 
cheaper than in woven goods, it follows 
that the knitted fabric will be the choice 
of the majority of women who desire a 
smart garment at a minimum of cost, 
furthermore, since it combines more 
warmth with less weight, it is the ideal 
cold weather fabric as well. 

These knitted fabrics which are selling 
for immediate requirements have the fa- 
culty of tailoring to perfection and keep- 
ing in shape with little or no pressing. 
So steadily is the demand for knitted 
cloths in all weights increasing that this 
manufacturer predicts that they will be 
in universal demand within a few years, 
to the exclusion of alll other materials 
for utility wear. 

Knitted fabrics are manufactured in 

weights varying from seven to thirty 
ounces ajid are suitable for every type 
of outer garment from the afternoon 
frock to the heaviest wrap. The new 
jumper blouses are being developed in 
knitted fabrics also this season, and in 
consequence the same materials are be- 
ing called for to make up separate skirts. 
An enormous range of mixtures is 
shown in these fabrics, reproducing prac- 
tically every known style of tweed fin- 
ish in a manner scarcely distinguishable 
from the original. 

Home Spuns Again to the Fore 

Next to knitted fabrics in popularity 
rank the new homespuns shown in both 
plain and colors and innumerable dainty 
stripes and plaids. Very pretty effects 
are achieved in dark grounds upon which 
double over-checks are imposed in a 
bright contrast, such as combinations of 
rose, brown, blue and grey on grey 
grounds. Opinion is divided as to 
whether the bold stripings or the plain 
soft colors will be most fashionable next 
summer for skirts, dresses and suits, 
but possibly the prediction that Cana- 
dian women will continue to adopt the 
quieter, inconspicuous solid shades while 
Americans will prefer the stripes and 
checks, will hold good. 

Two New Blues 

The line-up of solid colors in these 
light weight home spuns includes the 
following; mauve, tangerine, rose, sand, 
slag, gunmetal myrtle green, Westmin- 
ster purple, and two new blues known as 
Byng and Madeleine, of which the form- 
er is a duplication of the widely known 
Harding blue, rechristened in honor of 
Canada's leading lady. The latter is a 
soft greenish-blue tone, somewhat like 
the color known as Myng or Chinese 

blue, last year. The two latter shades 
are promised a wide vogue for 1922. 

Duvetyns in New Colors 

Duvetyns are still being called for 
both for immediate and future require- 
ments and will continue to lead for dres- 
sy suits, wraps and frocks. Out of thir- 
teen shades offered by a leading Can- 
adian manufacturer whose products are 
widely known throughout America, nine 
are variations upon the neutral tints, 
ranging from the lightest tones down to 
the darkest brown. The new shades are 
named Goblin, clay, beaverpelt, olive, 
drab, pilgrim, bamboo, rabbit, madura, 
and mocha and in this order they de- 
scribe very accurately the scale of tones 
from light to dark. 

The remaining four new colors are all 
blue, two of which are quite vivid and 
two rather sombre. The bright tones 
are called Byng and mallard, while the 
darker ones are known as corsair and 
admiral, the last being a rich navy. 

A leading Montreal wholesaler in 
speaking of the trend of dress fabrics 
for the coming season ventured the opin- 
ion that the sports development will re- 
main uppermost and that colors will be 
strong and conspicuous. He believes 
this to be true of both knitted fabrics 
and homespuns, but predicts that white 
will also be in greater demand than for 
some time. 

Another importer speaks of a vogue 
for mannish saxonies for costume cloths, 
with and without colored checks and 
stripes for spring and states that worst- 
eds are being bought sparingly although 
garberdines still continue to command 
considerable interest with many buyers. 
Ordinary cheviot tweeds are out of fa- 
vor for spring suits owing to the mark- 
ed demand for jerseys. 


Because of its possibilities for lingerie purposes, this is the name given to the 
cloth illustrated here. It is made in three patterns — a wide stripe, a plain 
ground and a narrow stripe. The lustre is permanent even after washing and 
the goods are 36 inches wide. There are twelve shades in the color range. 
— Shown by Fred. Buttkrfield & Company, Inc., New York. 


Hawthorn Mills, Car'eton Place, Ont., 
are opening up direct territorial selling 
branches all over Canada instead of 
agencies as formerly. When at all 
possible, there will be showrooms in 
connection, where the trade can see 
model garments made of the fabrics 
which the mill sells. In this way, mer- 
chants will be able to obtain a better 
idea of the styles into which the Haw- 
thorn Mills materials may be made. 

F. W. Miller is in charge of these 
various branches and H. R. Henderson 
is manager of the Ontario district sales 
branch, which has just been opened in 
the McKinnon Bldg, Toronto. 



Dry Goods Review 

Swiss Silk Goods in Canada 

Silks Constitute Great Bulk of Her Export Trade to Canada — 

Prices Steadily Increased From 1913 to 1920 — Prices Dropped 

21.2 Per Cent. During First Six Months of 1921 as Compared 

With Corresponding Months of 1920 

AS SWISS SILKS are an important' factor to Canadian 
trade, it will be of interest to the readers of Dry Goods 
Review to study the following' article on the question of 
Swiss silks in Canada. This article was written for Dry Goods 
Review by the Swiss Consul General, Carl P. Huebseher, of 

It would mean carrying coal to Newcastle should I attempt 
to give Canadian importers of the dry goods branch, informa- 
tion about their silk trade with Switzerland, as a great 
number of them have been in continual touch with the Swiss 
manufacturers since some thirty years. 

The main bulk of Swiss export to Canada has indeed al- 
ways consisted of silk goods, as the following figures from 
Swiss statistics will show: (Swiss Frs. 5.19 = $1.00). 

Swiss Silk Goods Exported 
to Canada 
(Ribbons and Silk in pieces only) 

Total Swiss Exports 
to Canada 




Swiss Frs. 

Swiss Frs. 

Swiss Frs. 

Swiss Frs. 

Swiss Frs. 

Swiss Frs. 

21,83 million 

24,48 million 

31,77 million 

30,96 million 

30,45 million 

90,19 million 

Swiss Frs. 
Swiss Frs. 
Swiss Frs. 
Swiss Frs. 
Swiss Frs. 
Swiss Frs. 

It appears from a comparison of the above figures with the 
quantities of the silk goods exported to Canada that the 
prices have steadily increased from 1913 to 1920, and it i3 
interesting to see, for instance, that the 3059 quintaux of 
silks (1 quintal = 100 kgs; 1 kg. = 2.2 lbs.) exported to 
Canada in 1913 had a value of about 13 million francs, while 
the only slightly greater quantity of the same goods exported 
in 1920, namely, 3440 quintaux, had a value of more than 
50 million francs. This explains the considerable increase of 
the Swiss exports to Canada. 

The year 1920 began, as far as the silk trade between Swit- 
zerland and Canada is concerned, with sudd n price ad- 
justments and it needed great effort on both sides to come 

to understandings. Losses, which were frequent, caused a 
number of smaller Canadian silk importers to stop pay- 
ments. However, readjustments took place; Canadian buyers 
were seen in Zurich and Basle as before, and if the trade is 
slow it is partly because the labor conditions in Switzerland 
as in other European countries, did not permit such wage re- 
ductions as had been adopted in Canada. 

So far the statistics for the first half year 1921, only, are 
available. They give, however, very interesting information 
regarding the silk trade if they are compared with the data 
for the first half year 1920. Thus, were exported from Swit- 
zerland to Canada: 

First % Year 1920 First % Year 1921 
Quantity in Value Quantity in Value 
quintaux Francs quintaux Francs 

Silk in pieces 2,239 31,766,697 1,130 12,613,000 

Silk ribbons 345 6,446,317 105 1,972,000 

Total 2,584 38,213,014 1,235 14,585,000 

This shows that the exports from Switzerland to Canada 
have greatly decreased. 

We also find that the value of one quintal of silk in pieces 

For the first half year 1920—14,187 Franks, while 
For the first half year 1921—11,162 Francs only. 

Or, in other words, the prices of silk in pieces imported 
from Switzerland into Canada have dropped 21.2'7<:. 

A similar calculation for the prices of silk ribbons gives 
the astonishing result that the price of one quintal for the 
first half year, 1920, was 18,733 Francs, and for the first 
half year, 1921, was 18,780 Francs, i.e., the prices of silk 
ribbons imported from Switzerland into Canada have not 
undergone any change since 1920. 

Swiss Consul General. 

Fine wool tweed cloths in the six patterns illustrated her . There are twenty-one color combinations in each pattern 
and these are warranted fast. Shown by Kenwood Mills, Limited, Arnprior, Ont. 

Dry Goods Reviei 



Revival of Dressmaking in Spring and Summer 
Promises a Record-breaking Wash-goods Season 

Montreal Houses Say Demand is For Vivid Colors in Tub Fabrics 

— Organdy Likely to Take the Lead — Many New Designs in 

Voiles — Printed Batiste is Strong in New York — Demand for 

Ginghams Likely to Create Shortage 

WASH fabrics are occupying a 
very large space in the wholesale 
houses this month and buyers 
state that business is decidedly good in 
this line with orders coming in as fast 
as others are shipped out. Both staple 
and fancy lines are attracting wide- 
spread attention as it is predicted that 
the Spring and Summer of 1922 are 
going to witness one of the biggest re- 
vivals of dressmaking that has been 
experienced in many years. Department 
stores are planning to inaugurate home 
sewing campaigns just as soon as the 
usual sales and Winter rush is done, 
and it will not be their fault if every 
woman dees not make up her mind to 
purchase a few yards of gayly checked 
gingham or dotted Swiss and contrive 
for herself a dainty Summer dress. 

According to a leading Montreal 
wholesale firm the greatest demand is 
for vivid colors in tub fabrics, and they 
enumerate the wanted shades in this se- 
quence: cinnamon, shrimp, maise, French 
pink, tomato, helio, seafoam green and 
all white. The last named, however, will 
rank possibly among the most popular 
tone in all classes of fabrics and several 
buyers have commented on the fact that 
it looks like a "white Summer." 
Organdy Retains Its Prestige 

The queen of fabrics is undoubtedly 
organdy, especially in the Swiss perman- 
ent finish which is now obtainable at 
prices greatly reduced from last year's 
quotations. The hand embroidered or- 
gandies are particularly lovely, since 
they feature a very varied assortment 
of dots, both small and large, as well 
as dainty little figures, and these may 
be obtained in contrasting colors or in 
white on different shades including all 
those above mentioned. It is impossible 
to obtain the same effect in finish in 
American made organdys and the Swiss 
are still supreme in the manufacture 
of this lovely Summer fabric, which is 
unequalled for all purposes. 

Dotted Swiss will show a decidedly 
increised range of patterns and ons 
Montreal wholesale house is showing 
no fewer than nine different sizes 
of dotted effects, not only in the usual 
white dot but also in black and 
colors woven on grounds of contrasting 
tone. A big demand is anticipated for 
the flocked dot tub fabric of either mus- 
lin or voile which imitates the woven 
dot so closely that it can scarcely be de- 
tected even by close examination. Navy 
blue muslins are especially smart when 
flecked in white pin dots and should go 
far in supplying the perennial demand 


Fancy Raye or striped chiffon taffe- 
tas shown for Spring and Summer 
by Mark Fisher Sons and Co., of 
Montreal. This silk has a black stripe 
with which is combined a formal 
nosegay motif in. a variety of colors, 
chiefly rose and blue. This novel silk 
will be largely used for frocks, mil- 
linery and fancy work on account of 
its suitability for reproducing the 
modes of olden time ivhich are being 
so widely revived. 

for hot weather fabrics that will not 
soil too quickly, at a low price. 

New Designs In 1922 Voiles 

Voiles show a complete transforma- 
tion in the matter of desilgns. The vogue 
for floral patterns seems to have dimin- 
ished in a rather remarkable manner 
and instead are to be found small neat 
geometrical figures, plaid effects closely 
resembling ginghaims and the ever dainty 
flocked designs which this year imitate 
chenille or wool, so fluffy and raised! 
is the pattern. Group designs appear to 
lead in popularity and small clusters of 
dots are grouped in squares, ovals and 
large all-over patterns, to resemble 
beading and stitchery in white and 
colors. The gingham patterns are the 
newest and smartest of the collection, 
particu^rly those in lattice checks and 
over-checks with a ratine finish. 

Crepette and ginghamette are two 
very new wash fabrics for lingerie and 
sheer frocks especially designed for 
children's wear, which come in pastel 
shades and white and feature shadowy 
checks in self color. Cross barred mus- 
lin is another leader in this class of 
materials and shows a novel treatment 
of Swiss embroidery in blue, pink or 

New York Demands Batiste 

Printed batistes are predicted tj be 
slated for one of the biggest seasons in 
years, as New York has set its seal 
of approval upon the dotted and checked 
designs as especially appropriate for 
Summer 1922. Having a crisp organdy 
finish and coming in bright colors, these 
batistes will make delightful little frocks 
for almost any occasion. One line of 
Joffre blue, checked in white, has a dot 
in the centre of each check, providing a 
most unusual effect when seen at a 

There is a good demand for sprigged 
dimities in pastel shades for the making 
of kiddies' party dresses, and for neg- 
ligees and lingerie. The new rose bud 
patterns developed in palest yellow, 
shell pink and baby blue are exquisite 
and quite irrestible to feminine eyes. 

The fad for sleeveless fr cks is said 
to be by no means dead yet and the 
coming Spring materials are providing 
ample scope to feature new ways of 
developing these useful and smart little 
costumes. Ramie cloth and beach cloth 
will be used in this way, while ratine is 
back on the market in unusual and 
arresting color effects. Bright colors 

Con inued on page 112 



Dry Goods Review 

There is no doubt that tweeds are showing splendid promise for Spring and Summer. Suits, skirts, dresses and sporting 
togs will be either homespun or tweed. Both stripes and checks are good though there will probably be more of the latter. The 
striped pattern illustrated here is in blue and white, the check on the lower left is fawn and navy arui the one on the loner 

right is black and white. — Shown BY DAVID W. ROSS, TORONTO. 

Dry Goods Review 




Continued from page 62 
expressed the opinion that this should be 
borne by the government as such inspec- 
tion was in the interests of the peop'e. 
Postage rates on mail order catalogues 
was also taken up and it was suggested 
that the government investigate the sub- 
ject to ascertain the cost to the country 
of this service which enabled the distri- 
bution of merchandise under such cir- 
cumstances as gave little opportunity 
for competition by retailers. In giving 
an argument for branch associations, Mr. 
Watter , stated that the Eastern Ontario 
and Ottawa District Ass'n had increas- 
ed its membership to 442 this year and 
had a surplus of $927 on hand. 

Thursday's Session 

The feature of the convention on 
Thursday was the presentation to the 
retiring president, B. W. Ziemann, 
Preston. D. R. Clark, treasurer of the 
Ontario association and an active work- 
er in the Toronto grocers' section, in 
making the presentation of a handsome 
club bag, referred to the great interest 
that Mr. Ziemann had taken in the work 

of the association. He had been untiring 
always in his activities on behalf of re- 
tailers. His abilities of leadership, and 
his advice had always been at the service 
of the organization. For the past 
twenty years he had given a great deal 
of his time to the work, and it was 
pleasing to know that with his retire- 
ment from the office of president, he 
was not ceasing to be as interested in 
the work. It was fitting that his services 
should be appreciated in some tangible 
form and it was with a real sense of ap- 
preciation of what Mr. Ziemann had 
done, that he made the presentation. 

The re iring president in expressing 
his gratitude, declared that he had al- 
ways tried to serve the best interests of 
the retail merchants of Ontario and the 
Dominion. He had enjoyed the work, and 
he had formed friendships that would 
endure as long as he lived. He had al- 
ways had the co-operation of his fellow 
officers, and while at times, the work 
represented a thankless job, 'here were 
compensating features. He would ever 
be ready to serve, even though not as 
president, the interests of the Retail- 
ers' Association. 

200 Eastern Ontario Retailers 

Meet in Convention in Kingston 

Large Delegation of Merchants Attend From 
Ottawa — Retailers Want to Confer With Manu- 
facturers in Fixing Resale Price — Banquet in the 

KINGSTON, Jan. 17.— (Special)— 
With upwards of two hundred 
de egates in attendance, the 
fourth annual convention of the Retail 
Merchants' Association of Eastern On- 
tario opened in the Y.M.C.A. hall this 
afternoon at 4 o'clock. President Henry 
Watters, Ottawa, presided. The Ot- 
tawa delegation was the largest from 
any single city, a party of forty mer- 
chants coming from there. Mr. Wat- 
ters was accompanied by the officers 
and executive, including R. Craig, 
Brockville, second vice-president; T. 
W. Col, ins, Ottawa, treasurer; Alexan- 
der Phillips, Ottawa, auditor; J. C. 
Campbe'l, Ottawa, secy.; Mr. Beale, or- 
ganizer; E. A. Stephens, president and 
G. G. Crabtree secy., of the Ottawa 
Branch. B. W. Ziemann, past president, 
W. C. Miller, provincial secretary, Tor- 
onto, Norman S. Jones, Hamilton, Clar- 
ence A. J., Ottawa, were also in 
attendance. Addresses of welcome were 
given by Mayor S. S. Corbett on behalf 
of the city of Kingston, and W. Y. Mills 
on behalf of the Kingston branch. 
President Watters replied on behalf of 
the officers and thanked the Mayor and 
President Mills of the local branch for 
the warmth of the greeting which was reciprocated by all. 

Resolutions Passed 

During the afternoon session, two re- 
solutions were passed. One resolution 
asked the Provincial Legislature to pass 

an act giving an interpretation to define 
all trade sections. The other resolution 
asked that the Board be given power to 
confer with all manufacturers who fix 
the retail seLing prices of standard 

Banquet in the Evening 

Tonight's banquet tendered the dele- 
gates by the local retail merchants was 
marked by an eloquent appeal from 
Major-General MacDonnell, commandant 
of the Royal Mi.itary College, for a 
United Canada. Over one hundred 
business men sat down to the Banquet. 
W. Y. Mills, president of the local 
branch of the Retail Merchants' Associa- 
tion, presided, and the speakers includ- 
ed Major-General MacDonnell, who pro- 
posed the toast to "Canada" and which 
was responded to by Brigadier-General 

A. E. Ross. President Watters gave an 
excel. ent address on the principles of 
the Retail Merchants' Association, show- 
ing the enormous amount of work ac- 
complished during the past two years. 
The toast to the visitors was proposed 
by R. J. Rogers, and responded to by 

B. W. Ziemann, W. C. Miller and Bry- 
and White, Ottawa, and Major Corbett, 
Kingston. The business session will be 
continued on Wednesday. 


A Toronto manufacturer of skirtings 
declares that these will be as strong as 
ever in the Spring, with this deference — 
stripes will share honors with checks. 
Instead of 85 per cent, stripes and 15 
per cent checks as it was last Fall, the 
proportion will be fifty or sixty per 
cent, checks and the remainder stripes. 
Black ami white will be worn but there 
are rival colors in the field. Fawns and 
navys in combination are the favorites. 
There will be skirtings with fawn 
grounds and navy stripes or checks, 
and those with navy grounds and fawn 
stripes or checks. The white, in the 
black and white materials, will be a 
little more prominent than the black. 
High-colored Homespuns 

Already, women planning trips to the 
South, are causing quite a flurry in 
homespuns. They are choosing the 
very brightest shades in single colors 
and in combination. All the yellow, rose 
and blue tones are in tiemand. One 
wholesale house at least, is carrying bags 
to be worn with suits or gowns of this 
material. They are homespun, too, and 
are sold to the retailer, lined or unlined, 
as he prefers. Some of them are plain 
and others have floral or conventional 
designs after the fashion of those made 
by hand last season. The wholesale 
trade is already finding a good market 
in homespuns because of the publicity 
it gets through these handbags. 

The sport and Summer suits this 
season, will be made up with contrast- 
ing materials. Sometimes the skirt will 
be plain and the coat striped or checked. 
Again these will be reversed. The more 
conservative models show a plain color 
for both skirt and coat with collar and 
cuffs of a small checked pattern. What- 
ever the choice, the chief note will be 
the high color. In fact, Miss Springtime 
will walk down the main streets of our 
towns in a glory of shades resembling 
a veritable rainbow. 

From Beer, one hears predictions of 
short paletot suits, made of wool crepe 
or popeline in gray and in beige. — From 
Women's Wear, N. Y. 


Organization of a Retail Saleswomen's 
association, claimed to be the first venture 
of its kind in Canada was effected at a meet- 
ing of Winnipeg saleswomen. A represent- 
ative number of women, from the leading 
business houses in that city, were present, 
and heartily endorsed the objects of the 
association, and will co-operate to the fullest 
extent with the men in their educational 
work. Arrangements have been made to 
have J. T. Knox, of Cleveland, Ohio, de- 
liver a course of short lectures in salesman- 
ship and business efficiency in the science 
theatre of Manitoba university, on Jan. 31, 
and Feb. 1 and 2. 

A directorate composed of the following 
officers was elected: Misses A. Parker, 
F. O'Grady, L. Livingstone, F. Miles, F. 
Smith, of the Hudson 's Bay Company ; Misses 
M. Smith, E. Wright, M. C. McElivee, I. 
Nichols, of J. Robinson & Co; Miss K. Brad- 
shaw and Miss E. Garrick, of Holt Renfrew; 
Mrs. G. Mcllveen and Miss L. Gunn, of 
Hollingsworth Limited. 



Dry Goods Review 


New lines for the new season 



Your mail orders given prompt attention. Salesmen are now on the road with our 
complete lines. Buyers while in the city are asked to call and see our splendid 
range of merchandise. 





It's Winter by the calendar 
but Spring in our Showroom 

XlfE'VE assembled a most wonderful array of Kimonas and 
' ' Lingerie for our Spring line — you really can't appreciate 
just how fine they are until you see them. 
We've spent many thoughtful hours on the matter of ma- 
terials, workmanship and attractiveness and what will, we 
are sure, interest you most — is the price. 



Breakfast Gowns 
Combing Jackets 
Night Gowns 

Boudoir Cars 

The Lingerie Company 


80-82 Wellington St., West 

See us while in Toronto at the Textile Exhibition 

Dry Goods Review 



This is the season of the year when 


The ultimate choice of 
the PRUdent housewife 

are in the greatest demand. Housewives are 
now taking stock of their sheets and pillow 
cases, towels, counterpanes, underwear and 
other materials and are preparing for the 
annual renewals. 

Take an inventory now of your needs — take 
a census of the white goods on your shelves. 
Then lay in a plentiful supply of " Prue 
Cottons " and display them on your counters 
and in your windows. They are the best — 
price for price, and therefore the cheapest — 
quality for quality. 

They are made in Canada t> 3? Canadians 








Dry Goods Review 

Greenshields Limited 

Woollen Department 

We wish to announce to the trade that our Spring line of 
Woollens is now in stock for your inspection. Our range 
having been supplemented by the stock of Messrs. Gault 
Bros., Ltd., we are now in a position to deliver more prompt- 
ly and satisfactorily than we have been for some time past. 

The range consists of Fancy and Staple Suitings in Wor- 
steds and Tweeds from the best British Manufacturers also 
a splendid range of Serges including "Belwarps." 

We also carry a full line of newest fabrics in Ladies' Coat- 
ings, Skirtings and Sport Suitings, 

"If you can't get it anywhere else you can get it here." 


"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada!' 

17 Victoria Square Montreal 

Sales Rooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific 


Dry Goods Review 



Dress (Soods 

SPRING 1922. 

We are showing a large range of exclusive Novelty designs in Cos- 
tume and Skirt Cloths including the following: — 

COLORS (All Wool) 






The leading shades for SPRING are SAND — ROSE — TAUPE — 

We have also a complete stock of FRENCH and BRITISH all 
wool Dress Goods in all colors in the following lines — Coating 
and Botany Serge, Poplins, Ottomans, Nun's Veilings, All Wool 
Cashmeres, Taffetas, Wool Crepes, Tunis Crepes, Habit Cloth, 
Tricotines, Gabardines, Striped and Plain Armures, Fancy Skirt- 
ings, Checks and Stripes. 


"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada." 

17 Victoria Square Montreal 

Sales Rooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific 




Dry Goods Review 


///'/ //// 

With a Great 
1Q21 Record 

in Back of us* 

Dry Goods Review 



Novelties Seen in Spring Trimmings 

Mother of Pearl Turns Out to Be Shell of Humble Snail— Calci- 

mined Ostrich — Paris Novelties to be Introduced Later in Season 

• — The Place for the Trimmings Indefinite — Trade Looks for 

Good Season 

THERE is a decided note of novel- 
ty about the mil.inery trimmings 
which are being exploited by Mon- 
treal designers for early Spring millin- 
ery. During the course of several vi- 
sits to the different show rooms Dry 
Goods Review was impressed with the 
fact, in this connection at least, "that 
things are not what they seem," to quote 
the well known poem. One suffers a 
considerable shock to discover that the 
delicately tinted bits of mother of pearl 
which are used in such profusion to 
form clusters of flowers or studded like 
beads here and there, are nothing more 
or less than the shell of the humble 
snail, but such we are assured is the 
case. Snail shells therefore may be 
seen upon some of the season's smart- 
est hats and add not a little to their 
distinction, being sponsored by no less 
an authority than Lanvin of Paris. 

But designers profess to believe that 
there never was such a spring for lav- 
ish use of flowers and fruit as the 
spring of 1922, and bring forth num- 
berless charming creations which are 
nothing but bouquets ablaze with color. 

Next to Lowers in popularity we find 
fruits calling for attention, including 
grapes, cherries, gooseberries and cur- 
rants, cleverly reproduced in either 
black or natural colors and arranged 
in the most realistic clusters imaginable. 
A very frequent trimming on some hats 
is one Large blossom in a flame or rose 
shade with which is placed a cluster of 
one of these fruits in black or dark 

"Calcimined" Ostrich for Spring 

Going still further afield in the search 
for novelty in trimmings we find the de- 
signers using all sorts of feather novel- 
ties which are scarcely recognizable in 
their new form. Calcimined ostrich is 
well spoken of and is nothing more or 
less than "whitewash" applied to the 
quill of the ostrich, making a somewhat 
bizarre effect but none the less interest- 
ing. Many designers comment particul- 
arly on the so called "plastered" feath- 
ers which mean precisely the same 
thing. Pasted feathers arranged in fiat 
effects and in bright colors are also 
good, while clipped ostrich pompoms are 
frequently used with glycerined ostrich 
in brim trimmings. Glycerined ostrich 
will be somewhat used alone but only in 
the new "twisted tail" arrangement that 
gives a stiff appearance when upright 
but when used in pairs in a side trim- 
ming gives the drooping effect. Curled 
quills are used for the tailored type of 
hat and another type of novelty pom- 
pom appears with the tips of the feath- 
ers radiating outwards instead of being 

caught together in the centre as a stem. 
The tips are stripped to form points. 
Lacquered feathers are well liked) too, 
especially in the red shades. 

Beads of All Sorts 

Closely allied to the vogue for tiny 
sheLs as hat trimmings will be found 
beads of all sorts, which will he shown 
as spring advances. Wooden beads in 
particular are lavishly used in different 
sizes, in strings and entire cabochons, 
or singly upon brims or wherever a 
place can be found' for them. There are 
white beads, jet, g'.ass and steel varie- 
ties, long and fancy shaped beads, etc. 
Among the colors for beads, red and 
crange seem to be most favored. 

Ribbons will be extensively used, eith- 
er pleated into smart cocades or else 
tied in dashing bows. Double faced rib- 
bons and corded varieties will lead in 
popularity. The treatment of very nar- 
row ribbons is novel, as rosettes or flat 
flower effects are usually made and 
sewn on the hat by the edge only, so 
that the ribbon stands out free. Wide 
satin ribbons are cleverly used to drape 
matrons' turbans, lending a more grace- 
ful appearance to the hat than could be 
obtained by the use of fabric alone. 

What Paris is Using 

As the season advances there will be 
introduced some of the novelties which 
Paris is sponsoring at present, such as 
tinfoil trimming or "etain," parrots in 
bright green or red, "match sticks" 
which are small spikes tipped with a 
bright bead, sealing wax flowers and 
opalescent motifs. 

Among the more elaborate models no- 
ticed in preparation for the spring open- 
ings which will occur around the end 
of February was a hat of visca all-over 
of deep brown and metallic threads 
trimmed with silk piping and a ribbon 
card. Another was of checked visca 
braid made very soft and pliable as 
though made of fabric. Hair cloth ap- 
pears quite frequently in models of dif- 
ferent colors, such as one noticed of 

brown designed in the shape of a small 
tunban with two ribbon loops crossed 
on the top. 

No Definite Position for Trim 

None of the designers have yet agreed 
as to where the trimming definite. y be- 
longs on the spring hat. It is still too 
early to predict with sureness, but as 
Paris has decreed high trimmings and 
New York is partial to dro'oping ef- 
fects, it may be safe to say that each 
type of hat will be a law to itself. 

There is an ever increasing interest 
in sports hats, especially as an early 
season item. Braids introducing wooj 
and straw, all wool braids and com- 
binations of silk fabrics and braids are 
most prominent. 

A great deal has been done with an- 
gora braid and angora hair braid will 
undoubtedly become more generally pop- 
ular in the near future for sports hats. 
Trade is Confident of Successful Season 

There is a feeling of confidence mani- 
fest throughout the millinery trade, con- 
fidence that the advancing spring sea- 
son will find business conditions as close 
to normal as they have desired them, 
confidence that is based upon the first 
facts obtainable relative to the spring 
demand. While this feeling has by no 
means led the manufacturers and im- 
porters of millinery to indulge in the 
reckless expenditures of war time pros- 
perity, it has nevertheless called them to 
work harder than ever in their prepara- 
tions for the advancing season, in the 
sincere be'ief that values will find a 
ready market. Reluctance on the part 
of the retailer to place orders in the 
quantities that are asked by over an- 
xious salesmen is no longer character- 
ized in the wholesale trade as a "buyers' 
strike" but the new attitude is rather 
that any reluctance in ordering is a 
sign that the customer is a sane and 
conservative buyer and one who is prob- 
ably in a better financial position than 
others who place more generously. 

Sane but not too conservative buying 
policies are admirable assets to the mil- 
linery buyer this season. 


Manchester, Robertson, Allison, Ltd. of 
St. John, N. B. have recently inaugurated 
an educational course for all its employes 
which will cover a period of one year and give 
a more thorough knowledge of salesmanship. 
The course has been inaugurated as tending 
towards better service for the customer and 
greater interest and appreciation on the part 
of the employe. In its initial stages it has 
been very well received and very successful. 



Dry Goods R&view 

Fabric Combinations for Easter 

Extreme Diversity of Styles Characterizes Spring Millinery — 

Shapes, Fabrics and Colors Give Promise of Gradual Changes — 

Horse Hair Lavishly Used — Blocked Shapes Quiet 

The year's at the spring, 
The spring's at the morn, 
The morning's at seven, 
The hilltop's dew-pearled; 
The lark's on the wing, 
The snail's on the thorn, 
God's in his heaven, 
All's right with the world. 


WITH the dates for the whole- 
sale millinery openings in Mon- 
treal still unsettled, there is 
little really definite information as to 
what will he worn when once the 
Spring season opens. However, there 
is plenty of news to be gathered in the workrooms where nimble fin- 
gers are now busily employed in mak- 
ing up the samples for the Easter 

Interviews with leading millinery de- 
signers bring out the fact that hats in 
fabric combinations or fancy braids will 
predominate this season. But apart 
from that no one knows what will be 
worn because there is something new 
being introduced every week in New 
York and the consumer is adopting 
the attitude of buying simply what 
she likes, not what is shown in great 
quantity, which attitude is creating a 
difficult situation for 'buyer and die- 
signer alike. The average woman to- 
day walks into a millinery department 
and 'asks, "What haive you new 'to- 
day?" and if she calls a week later 
she repeats the same question. It is 
all a question of having something for 
everyone and not too much of anything. 

Individuality therefore may be taken 
as the keynote of the Spring season as 
local millinery designers see it and 
they point to the lack of uniformity in 
styles to corroborate this fact. How- 
ever, while turbans and toques will 
lead as always, a feeling is expressed 
that shapes will be a trifle more un- 
usual, especially regarding the direction 
and angle which the 'brims take. At 
the present moment the demand is new 
for "off the face" shapes but the new 
styles coming in each week from New 
York show cloche and poke outlines 
fairly frequently. The crowns in all 
cases are soft and supple, with either 
sectional construction or a coronet effect. 
A few new sihapes are entirely briimless 
and allow a good opportunity for feat- 
uring flower appliques of which many 
little hats are entirely constructed. 

To return to the fabric of the hat 
itself, there will he something for every 
taste and every costume from present 


Is the new color which is used effective- 
ly o7i this smart black satin model yith 
turned up brim,. The scrolls of ribbon 
are an unusual trimming, the color note 
beiyig merely suggested by the inter- 
weaving of Canna hued threads with 
black. The crown is quite soft. Hat from 
Debenham's (Canada) Ltd., Montrea'. 

indications. Throughout the rest of 
February and early March satin hats 
will of course hold sway, particularly 
in the heavy cire satins, shoe satins, and 
baronet eires developed in black and the 
wood shades. Failles are also employed 
to a considerable extent. With the ad- 
vent of April, and Easter which falls 
upon the 16th, just at the right time 
to introduce mi'linery of a real Spring- 
like character, the novelty braids will 
be seen in prolusion. 

The great demand is for novelties of 
all sorts, particularly for the new hair 
cloth or horse-hair in black and in a 
bigh glossy finish. Cellophane allovers 
in a finely woven effect, novelty mix- 
tures of wool and silk, silk metalasse, 
Gros de Londres, allover Visca and em- 
broidered Cantons are all expected to 
be popular. Then there are two new 
silk fabrics which will be lavishly used 
in combination with fancy braids. These 
are pebbled satin and creponge. The 
former is a heavy satin with a pebbled 
surface and a cire finish, and the latter 
is a knitted silk with a ratine surface 
one side and a smooth back. Used with 
these new allovers will be found visca 
and straw braids, cellophane satin 
braids and wool mixtures. Very often 
the crowns are made of the braids while 

the brims are covered in the fancy all- 
over. When this is the case the crowns 
are frequently cleverly devised to imi- 
tate draped effects gathered into each 
side, or else the braids are interwoven 
in such a way as to combine several 
tones or color effects. 

Mohair is spoken of as a certainty 
for early summer wear and it is exten- 
sively employed now to veil flower 
brims on small hats which might ap- 
pear too summery otheiwise. The trans- 
parent effects are more truly summer- 
like in character than are fabric hats 
and it is not expected that they will 
suffer the same eclipse which overtook 
them last Summer. 

So far not a word is being said 
about blocked shapes although the 
usual number of sailor hats will be 
featured in early Spring. Rough straws 
will predominate with smart tailored 
bows, but for the most part designers 
are maintaining a discreet silence upon 
the subject of entirely blocked hats. 

The colors for Spring are quite charm- 
ing and will reflect a desire to get 
away from too much use of black for 
a few months at least. Brown is spoken 
of in the lighter wood shades on ac- 
count of the number of costumes in 
heather mixtures or deer shades that 
are being worn; periwinkle blue is an- 
other very lovely shade universally be- 
coming to blue-eyed people, whether 
fair or dark, as it is not pronounced 
but rather faintly toned down with a 
touch of grey. Canna, pumpkin, bonfire, 
beige and poppy red run the gauntlet of 
wara shades and it is said that there 
will be a call for grey later on. 

Owing to the lavish use of flowers to 
form entire brims on Spring hats the 
contrasting fabric used in the costruc- 
tion of the hat proper will of course be 
subdued in tone to show up in better 
effect. Small hat flower petals are like- 
wise used singly applied in overlapping 
effect and centred by beads, to form a 
multicolored brim facing. 

In the general enthusiasm over color- 
ful effects in millinery, it must not be 
forgotten that the all black hat has a 
distinct place in every wardrobe and 
not only for matrons but for the young 
girl as well. Among the latter styles 
for older women are shown exception- 
ally striking models of black hair 
cloth in a high draped effect in com- 
bination with Canton crepe and trimmed 
with fruit in shaded effects. Grapes 
will be frequently seen in conjunction 
with toques of haircloth in matrons' 

Dry Goods Review 



First Showings Bring Business 

New York Behind in Deliveries to Canadian Houses 

— Report of First Showings Encouraging — Three 

Favorites in Ready To Wear — Late News of New 

York Hat Showings 

MILLINERY buyers are very 
much enthused with what New 
York had shown them this spring. 
They say that their customers will have 
to buy just ais vhey had to, when they 
saw the alluring models in the wholesale 
houses of the metropolis. The difficulty 
will be in getting the merchandise over 
at the usual time. New York is very 
much behind this year and, although 
some Toronto buyers have had their or- 
ders in for two or three weeks, many of 
the samples they require have not yet 
reached here. 

Very few travelers have gone out but 
those who are on the road, are sending 
in very good reports. One sa.esman who 
has reached Edmonton with thirty-five 
of the first sample hats, has sent in or- 
ders for every one of these numbers. 
The manager of one house says, however, 
that he will require brisk business all 
this season to counteract the losses of 
the slack pre-Christmas period. 

Three Favorites in Ready-to-Wears 

One Toronto manufacturer has brought 
over three hats which, he says will cover 
the requirements for the first spring 
hats. One is a five-end Milan in canna 
red, the straw sti:ched with white 
thread. This is done to give the two- 
toned effect which is being carried into 
all the smartest designs in millinery. 
When blue or black s.raw is used, the 
contrast effected with the white thread 
is even better. 

The second mode! has a crown of crepe 
de chine with an off-the-face briim of 
mohair braid arranged to give the tubu- 
lar effect which is the most used design 
in trimming this year. Mohair lends it- 
self best to this shape because of its 
wiry nature and for that reason it is 
seen on almost every type of hat shown. 

The third hat is a combination of taf- 
feta and cellophane s raw. The crown 
is of taffeta and the whole brim of ir- 
idescent black celophane. 

That staple hats in ready-to-wear are 
to be worn very considerably, is evident 
from the large numbers of orders com- 
ing for all the sailor and turban s raws 
which have been shown. One manufac- 
turer dec'ares that there will be enough 
business to keep his house working all 
spring without stressing the novelty 
numbers which are coming out every 

New York is Talking Horse-hair 

Next f o flowers, the American whole- 
sale houses are stressing horse-hair 
most of all. This resembles the old- 
fashioned material used on the furniture 
of a generation ago, except that it is 
very fine. No doubt much of the popu- 
larity which horse-hair is enjoying, is 

due to its shiny appearance, because 
anything which is iridescent or glazed 
wi 1 sell, whether it is straw, satin or 

Designers who have just returned 
from Paris, say that in tailored models, 
Frenchwomen prefer plain hats. They 
choose allover chapeaux of cellophane, 
cired materials or horsehair and they 
put nothing else on them. In New York 
this fad is considered a little severe, so 
milliners are placing ornaments on most 
of their creations. 

Quite in keeping with the vogue for 
glistening and iridescent materials, is 
the popularity of the metal-edged ribbon. 
Wonderful little ribbons of all colors and 
widths have edges of gold-colored 
metal, which stand out in splendid con- 
trast against the bright cired ha^s. These 
ribbons very often hang on the left side 
this season. 

Irregular brims are growing in favor 
as the season advances, particularly 
with the hats which have no trimming. 
The yellows are probably the best colors 
ju&t now but the next few weeks will 
find a call for canna, mahogany or terra, 
bonfire, tile blue, and perwinkle blue. 
The last color is expected to outdo al' 
the other blues in summer millinery. 

Merchant's Will 

Makes Large Gifts 

Late Thomas Ritchie Makes Many 

Generous Bequests— $40,000 

To Nurses' Home 

The late Thomas Ritchie, of Belh- 
ville, left an estate of $126,547.64, 
among the principal items being: life 
insurance, $7,665.48; stocks, $39,000; 
bonds, $21,268.12; residential property 
(Bridge and John Streets, Belleville), 
$10,000; and the store property at 46 
and 47 west side of Frcnt Street, valued 
at $40,000. The bonds included $10,000 
in Victory b nds, $6,000 debenture 
bonds of Fort William, and $5,000 of 
the Canada Bread Co. His chief stock 
holdings included 50 preferred shares 
of' the Ritchie Co. of $500 each, and 
10 preferred shares of Canada Cement 
Co., $900. 

To Mary Ritchie, his wife, are be- 
queathed the household goods and fur- 
niture. In addition she is given the 
rent of the store building and the in- 
come frcm investment of the life in- 
surance. Forty thousand dollars is 
bequeathed to the Belleville Women's 
Christian Association, according to the 
will but it must be used in the erection 

of a nurses' home in connection with 
the hospital. After the death of his 
wife and after the sale of the store 
building shall have been made by the 
trustees, the will directs the trustees 
to pay the further sum of $20,000 to 
the Women's Christian Association for 
extending the uses of the hospital. 

Other Extensive Legacies 

The $5,000 legacy to the Children's 
Aid is in trust, to be invested for in- 
come purposes in assisting in the pro- 
curing of suitable clothing for the 
wards of the Children's Aid upon their 
leaving the Shelter to go to foster 
homes. A. second fiegacy of $10;000 
to be invested by the Children's Aid 
Society, the income therefrom to be 
used to assist in the work of the 
Society. Other bequests include: Albert 
College, a legacy of $5,000 and $5,000 
more after the death of Mrs. Ritchie 
and the disposal of the store property; 
C. M. Reid and the city of Belleville, 
$7,000 in trust, to invest, and use the 
income from such investment to assist 
in the expense of instructors for small 
children in the public playgrounds in 
East and West Belleville, the same as 
Mr. Ritchie had for some little 
time. A further legacy to the city in 
this connection is $5,000. Miss Jessie 
Hay, nurse, receives $1,000; Joseph 
Baker, of St. Ola, Ont., $500 and fish- 
ing tackle, boats, guns, etc.; to each — 
Frank P. Thompson, James Henry 
Bryant, Hector Poste, James Buchanan, 
Samuel Maguire and Jane Bishop are 
left two common shares of the Ritchie 
Company on c mpletion of three years' 
further association with the Ritchie 
Company. Fourteen employees of the 
company will receive a legacy of $100 
each; the:e have bean employed for fcha 
year prior to his death. The residiue 
is divisible .' mong the Women's Chris- 
tian Association, Albert C liege, the 
Children's Aid Society, the city of Belle- 
ville, Murie', Marjorie and Isabelle 
Gregg, giandnieces and niece of Mrs. 
Ritchie, and Miss Bessie Stewart. 

To the Editor of Dry Goods Review 
Dear Sir: — 

At this season of the year when 
most merchants are invoicing their 
stocks, we find many articles which 
are unsalable, because they are out 
of style or shop-worn. They are only 
an expense to keep insured and they 
take up valuable space. 

My practice is to sort these out 
and send them to the Salvation 
Army or some provident association 
in the large cities where they can 
always be used for the alleviation 
of suffering among the poor. 
Yours very truly, 
A. L. Potter 

Independence, Kansas 
U. S. A. 



Dry Goods Review 

Firm Omits Formal Opening 

The Arcade of Hamilton Dispensed With Its For- 
mal Opening in Millinery And Secured Better 
Business — Getting Rid of the Idea of a Selected 
List of Customers — The Invitation — Tried It In 

SPRING and fall openings are two 
important functions in the life of the 
retail store. Great preparations at 
considerable cost are gone to to make 
this a successful as well as a profitable 
event in these two important seasons of 
the year. The store puts on its "best 
bib and tucker," so to speak, as an in- 
ducement to its friends to see the 
newest creations for milady in the mil- 
linery world. Elaborate displays are 
staged throughout the store, both interi- 
or and exterior. It costs a lot of money. 
And then there are many stores that 
have an advance show for a selected 
list of patrons who might be expected to 
make early selections of the finest and 
most expensive hats of the whole show. 
They are on the "inner circle" of the 
store's friends; they have first choice 
and they take advantage of it, no doubt. 
But what of those who are not on the 
selected list? who do not come in on 
the first show? 

The Arcade, Hamilton. 

These are questions which agitated the 
minds of the directors of The Arcade, 
Hamilton, Ontario. So they decided to 
try out a season without a formal show- 
ing, though they had no intention of al- 
lowing it to be thought that they did not 
have the best they could get in millin- 
ery for their customers. What they 
wanted to get rid of, if they could with- 
out harm to the store's business, was a 
good deal of expense at a time when it 
became necessary to cut down the over- 
head, to get rid of the idea in many peo- 
ple's minds that they had a favored list 
of customers whose requirements were 
more to them than the requirements of 
other people — and, at the same time, ge 
their usual business in fall hats, per- 
haps increase it. 

How it Was Done 

According to J. P. Whelan, Merchand- 
ise Manager of The Arcade, the kind of 
opening they had in the fall of 1921 was 
the best they had ever had in that city. 
They did not call it an opening, for they 
wanted to get away from the idea of 
formalism connected with the usual 
spring and fall displays. They sent out 
a letter which had the addresses of their 
French and English offices on it invit- 
ing attendance at their millinery de- 
partment. This letter was sent to their 
FULL MAILING LIST, not a selected 
list, and it was the fullest list they 
could get. They did not overlook any 
one. The letter follows: — 

Chapeau Francais. 

If you would be always distingue 
in dress without being ultra, it is 

rnot necessary to consider above all 
. things the style of one's hat? 

And are there to-day a.iy among 
les elites who do not prefer les 
chapeaux francais when they can 
be procured at prices which are 
not extravagants? 
And Madame, Mademoiselle, what 
chapeaux so chic as those of Maria 
Guy, Leotine, Jenny, Schwalbe, 
Francis, Louison or Evelya Varon? 

Truly, wiih one of these creations 
you may possess un charme fran- 

Late French models and novel- 
ties are now ready and you are 
cordially invited to visit our show 
room for a pre-opening inspection 
of this the largest assortment of 
Paris and New York hats ever 
shown in Hamilton. The hats will 
not be on public display. You will 
kindly ask to be shown these ex- 
clusive models. 


Did Same With Ready-to-Wear 

Mr. Whelan stated to Dry Goods Re- 
view that the plan was highly success- 
ful and that they had done 'he best 
business in their millinery department 
as a result of this kind of an effort 
that they had ever done. He felt that 
it had accomplished its purpose in many 
respects and that it had rid their friends 
of any impression they might have had 
that there was a selected list of people 
who had the first chance at the very 
best creations they could gather from 
the millinery world for their customers. 

The same plan was worked out in con- 
nection with heir ready-to-wear depart- 
ment and with the same satisfactory re 
suits to them. 


On December 29 a large party of em- 
ployees of the Jas. A. Ogilvy's Limited, 
of Montreal, and their friends gathered 
on the furniture floor for their annual 
Christmas party. A very lively evening 
was planned with action every minute 
of the time. First of all there was a 
concert, with songs, etc., drawn from 
store talent and interspersed by many 
of the favorite community songs which 
were sung with great zest by the gath- 
ering. A well put on play by members 
of the staff, entitled, "Professor Love- 
bird's Matrimonial Agency," was one of 
the features of the evening. The draw- 
ing for presents and the bean guessing 
contest were very popular. Much mer- 
riment was introduced during the dances 
with paper hatsi and balloons. Light re- 
freshments were served during the ev- 

Optimistic Note 

Is Sounded 

J. W. Bundy Reviews Conditions for 

Wholesale Dry Goods Section Board 

of Trade 

Reviewing conditions in the Dry Goods 
trade during the year 1921, J. W. Bundy 
of Cockburn & Bundy Ltd., of Toronto, 
in reporting to the Wholesale Dry Goods 
section of the Board of Trade sounded an 
optimistic note for the year 1922. Two 
events of world interest were cited as 
indicators that better times were in store 
for Canadian business men — the Wash- 
ington conference and the righting of the 
exchange rate between Canada and the 
United States. Mr. Bundy's report was 
as follows: — 

"In reviewing generally wholesale dry 
goods trade for the past year, we cannot 
get away from the fact that, owing to 
world-wide conditions, it has been a year 
of commercial disturbance, a year of 
unusual anxiety and concern on the part 
of all branches of the trade. 

The fact that throughout Canada over 
two thousand commercial failures have 
occurred speaks for itself. 

The unprecedented drop in prices, 
fluctuations of exchange, failure of crops 
in the west, are largely responsible for 
the present depression. 

The Department of Finance shows a 
decrease in Customs Revenue amounting 
to over $55,000,000 for nine months end- 
ing November 30th. 

For the final months of the year, re- 
ports on the whole show expansion and 
greater activity in the manufacturing of 
textile products; cottons, silk and rib- 
bons show an upward tendency. 

The Maritime provinces report in- 

In Ontario, as in Quebec, there were 
local fluctuations with a net increase in 

At Toronto, employment in the textile 
industries, on the whole, was maintained 
at the September level. 

Montreal textile factories indicate 
greater activity. On the whole the fi- 
nancial outlook looks brighter and a spir- 
it of optimism prevails. Exchange rates 
show an improvement in the value of 
the pound sterling. 

The important place that the Wash- 
ington conference on the limitation of 
armaments occupies in restoring normal 
conditions is worthy of mention. Lessen- 
ed expenditure on armaments, lessened 
taxation, and a general agreement be- 
tween the powers will do much toward 
establishing confidence and credit." 

At a formal display of early summer hats 
to be made in New York shorty one manu- 
facturer is planning to use manneouins of 
hand-painted plaster of paris. These will 
be miniatures of the futuristic type. 

Dry Goods Review 




Continued from page 100 
When feather trimmings are employ- 
ed outside of the quills spoken of above, 
they usually take the form of heavy 
drenched ostrich or clipped pompoms. 
Some of the flat high colored ostrich 
tips are also seen. 

Little in All Straw 

Nearly all the French hats introduce 
fabrics along with straw. Only in 
?traw braids do the Paris designers 
work with straw alone. They say that 
the soft hats appeal to women more 
than ever. 

For sports wear there is the hat of 
masculine lines with stiff quills, narrow 
ribbon and there is the small shape 
fitting very close to the head. Most of 
the sports hats are worn well down 
over the eyes and are made supple and 
without ornament. The leading colors 
are used in this type as well as in the 
dress hats. In fact all the shades men- 
tioned in the cable despatches arei seen; 
cherry red), citron, wood tones, bright 
blues of royal cast and passot shades 
are among the mcst prominent. 

Novelty Trimmings 

There has been a sudden demand 
for the new feather trimming known 
as biot which is either Chinese goose 
or duck quills. These biot feathers are 
placed usually in front. They droop 
from the top of an allover turban, in a 
veiry effective way. There is a scarcity 
of these in the market at present which 
no one seeims to be able to fill with 
feathers of American birds. 

In London there is vogue for tinting 
and handpainting in headdress. One 
designer is making flowers of heavy 
silk, painted in oils by a special process, 
which renders them waterproof and 
durable. Wreaths of these flowers 
painted in shades of pink, green, orange, 
lemon and blue are combined. Painted 
cloth and gold and all kinds of metal 
cloth are used for this work. 

Both Paris and London are favoring 
the new tricorne shape. Out of seven 
sample hats sent over by as many 
French designers five were on the tri- 
corne order. Many of them are almost 
round with only the brim edge suggest- 
ing the tricorne, while others are dis- 
tinctly pointed. This shape, Toronto 
milliners say, is particularly good when 
pendant ornaments or loose hanging 
ones are used for trimming. 

Early Spring Small Shapes 

Toronto Houses Are Expecting Big Season — Lead- 
ing Shades Will Be Browns, Purples, Blacks And 
Some Bright Shades — Many Beautiful Trimmings 
To Be Shown. 

LJtA_ i 

The earliest straw hat season on record 
has opened in Los Angeles. Women are 
buying flower trimmed straws originally de- 
signed for late March and April. This may 
mean, that, although the hats shown in the 
northern states and in Canada are usually 
combinations of straw and silk, the all-straw 
season may come here very quickly — prob- 
ably by the middle of March. 

BUYERS for millinery houses are 
about the busiest people in Toronto 
these days. Most of them have 
returned from their trips to New York 
and a few are back from Paris. They 
are looking for the biggest spring sea- 
son this year that Toronto has ever 
known. Fall hats came in so early that 
milliners and their patrons are quite 
ready for spring modes and even in the 
small towns, women are beginning to 
ask for chapeaux with touches of straw. 
Wholesale millinery houses say that 
the leading shades for the first two 
months this year will be: all the brown 
tones, the purples, black and a few of the 
bright shades, the most prominent of 
which will be silver, gold and the reds. 
With the March winds and the Easter 
suits, will come several grey shades, the 
blues, and black and white. There will 
be a note of color on all the hats for 
late spring. May and June will bring 
in the bright tones, the strongest of 
which will be, raspberry, orange, hya- 
cinth blue and Chinese green. The all- 
black and the all-white will be worn as 

Small Shapes for a While 

For the Canadian trade, the small 
shapes will be favorites until early in 
April, most millinery importers believe. 
Draped toques and turbans which 
are high in front will have as their ri- 
vals the pokes, although of the two, the 
former will prevail. One manufacturer 
remarked to Dry Goods Review that the 
prevalence of the off-the-face hat in al- 
most all styles was rather remarkable, 
since it has been a favorite so long. 
Soft-top crowns and the balloon crowns 
will be good. 

Dress occasions will see the cavalier 
hats and hats with slashed brims. June 
weddings will favor Gainsborough and 
Romney hats in the large shapes. 

Trimmings and Materials Varied 

There is a difference of opinion as to 
what the leading materials will be but 
all of the Toronto wholesale houses are 
agreed on the following: visca straw, es- 
pecially the all-over visca, is being shown 
for immediate business and it is a safe 
venture for the whole season. Every 
kind of satin has many devotees. The 
high-lustred satin in both the baronette 
and the plain material is perhaps seen 
most of all. Many materials are being 
cered this season, because of the demand 
for lustre. Baronette satin responds 
very readily to this cering process and 
is therefore used for the most part on 
the first models which have come in 
from New York. Allover jet is very 
good, crown and brim being covered with 
a fabric of these beads. 

Georgette and Canton crepe is used 

m combination with visca or faille. Hair- 
cloth is declared by one wholesale house 
to be One of the best materials for the 
whole season. 

Beautiful Trimmings on the Market 

The novelty houses are making up 
some lovely ornaments to attract millin- 
ers this spring. It promises to be a year 
when almost every trimming that has 
been worn in other seasons, will make 
good. Prices too, are very favorable as 
millinery accessory firms believe that 
their profit will come mainly from turn- 
over in the next five weeks. Ribbons in 
all widths and tones, especially the wide 
grosgrains and failles will be used. Nov- 
elty wings and quills are expected to 
return to the status they had several 
years ago. There will be an early run 
on flowers, even the January hats show- 
ing some lovely crowns of flowers. Both 
the large flowers and the tiniest ones are 

Later on in the season, manufacturers 
expect to use wheat, ferns and mosses 
in the natural tones. Ornamental veils 
are shown on the plain models, in fact 
many of the smartest hats depend on 
their veils only for their trimming. 

Dress hats will have chin ribbons, 
chignon loops and streamers but these 
will not come in until later on. Some 
of these ribbons will .have metal edges. 
One importer believes' that glycerined 
ostrich will be as much favored as it 
ever was while the coque and biot 
feathers will be used also. 


A dinner was recently given at the 
Montreal Club by the firm of Hodgson 
Sumner & Company of Montreal which 
was attended by the travelers, buyers, 
office staff, inside salesmen and the 
board of directors, numbering some 80 
altogether. The event partook of the na- 
ture of an anniversary celebration, sig- 
nalizing the firm's 65th birthday. Af- 
ter the delicious menu had been enjoyed, 
toasts were drunk to the King, and to 
the various departments which have co- 
operated so loyally during the past years 
to build up the present business. Mu- 
sical selections were given during the 
evening ibv Messrs. W. C. Hodgson, 
James Callander, Elliott Jones and J. 
L. Desjardins. 

Buyers predict the"comeback"of the puit 
this season and a corresponding revival in 
the blouse business will come as well. Blous- 
es are being given a prominent place in sales 
throughout the country and wide purchas- 
ing is necessary that stocks may be brought 
to normal. 

J^dodel Hats 

Newest Fashions Exclusive Style 

Our prosperity rests upon your ability 
to sell our merchandise and to sell it at 
a profit. Realizing this we have pro- 
vided an adequate stock of salable and 
profitable lines for the SPRING SEAS- 

Newest Merchandise New Prices 


55 Wellington St. West, Toronto 






Jonn St, N. 236 Jackson Bldg. 66 King St. 


Dry Goods Review 



The new "Fiskhats" are ready 

— We take distinct pride in 
inviting you to inspect them 
— also our large open stock of 
Fisk millinery. 

January 16th 

We advise an early selection from 
these exclusive productions of our 
own workrooms and from the 
season's choicest importations. 

If you are unable to visit Chicago, 
you will find a complete display 

At New York 
411 Fifth Ave. 

D. B. FISK & CO. 

Creators of Correct Millinery 
225 North Wabash Ave., Chicago 

41 1 Fifth Avenue, New York 


Art Needlework and Fancy Goods 

"Peri-Lusta" "Crystal" 

Mercerized Cottons Artificial Silk 

Embroidery Materials 

Fancy Linens and Piece Goods 


Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson 

932-938 Broadway New York e Cor. 22nd St. 

Canadian Showroom and Factory-: 

Bay and Wellington Sts., - Toronto, Canada 

Spring Styles are Ready 

Millinery Frames 

Always the newest in stock 

From Best Makers at Best Price" 

Milliners everywhere 
making up Spring stock 
have an ass^rtme^ 
frames that wil' 
liners to mak 
ning of h' 



Dry Goods Review 



mmmmmmmmmmm m m mm m m 2 *m zre w m mm 








The above is a reproduction of the Dynamo 

Booklet, containing- photos of latest Parisian 

TJ ^ts. This booklet is being- sent to all retail 

^ry and dry goods stores throughout 

^ne is sold only through mill- 
ds houses. 

*ite to 



lion & Co. of Lyons (France) for the 
e only sell to the Wholesalers. 

80 Wellington 

St. West 


Tel. Adel. 4184 





Now as Never Before — 

You Need Sound 
Financial Information 

THERE never was a time when 
business merchants needed sound, 
sane, financial knowledge of com- 
mercial happenings on which to base 
present and future investments as they 
do right now. 

For your business profits are not real 
profits until you have them safely in- 
vested in reliable securities. 

Why not invest profits from your 
shop and the coupons from your Vic- 
tory Bonds in genuine securities, news 
of which you will find every week in 
Enquiry Service, a feature for sub- 
scribers which will give you the benefit 
of investigators in all the big financial 
centres? This service is just as if you 
paid a man $10,000 a year to be your 
own personal investigator in Toronto, 
Montreal, Winnipeg — in fact, every 
city in the Dominion. 

But you cannot hire the services of 
this staff — you get them free with a 
subscription to THE FINANCIAL 
POST, through this splendid Investors' 
Enquiry Service, which is free to all 

But that is not the only thing — this 
commercial newspaper gives you the 
financial, industrial, banking news of 
the country in convenient readable 
form — just the data you need for your 
business — just the facts you need for 
your investments — in fact, a splendid 
partner of the ambitious merchant. 

When 8,425 merchants, business 
executives, bankers, lawyers find in 
facts which will help them in their 
business, will you not find a weekly 
reading of its pages very beneficial? 


143-153 University Ave., Toronto, Ont. 



143-153 University Ave., Toronto. 
On the understanding that THE FINAN- 
CIAL POST contains just the facts I need for 
safe investment of profit, you may send me a 
recent issue. 

Name . . 


for this 





Our Spring 

of printed foulards, lining sat- 
ins, printed georgettes, brocad- 
ed and embroidered silks. 

Our Staple 

which you will find in stock. 
Grenadines, satins, crepe de 
chine, georgettes, chiffons, 
ninons and brocaded silks. 

We are carrying in stock at To- 
ronto the latest shades worn in 
Paris and New York. Our display 
shows the trend of the season. 
Don't fail to see it. 

Les Successeurs de 






Telephone : Adelaide 3062 


E. Desnoux, Rep 

Western Canada Agent : Edwin J. Kirkbright, 205 Bower Bldg. 

Vancouver, B.C. 



Dry Goods Review 

Our National Emblem-The Beaver 

Relationship of This Industrious Animal to the Fur Trade in 

Canada Both Past and Present — His Habits of Life and Steps 

Being Taken to Conserve Him— Increased Value of His Pelt 

FURRIERS state that beaver skins 
are enjoying an unprecedented pop- 
ularity this season for trimmings 
of all kinds, as well as for the entire 
coats, and the rumour that the 
supply is so peculiarly a Canadian pro- 
duct, emblematic in the truest sense of 
the word of our national industry and 
resourcefulness, and constitutes a most 
admirable symbol to characterize our 
Dominion upon its official insignia. Al- 
though there are plenty of fur bearers 
infinitely more valuable than the beaver, 
there are few that are so closely bound 
up in the history of a nation, nor which 
have played so great a part in creating 
wealth for their exploiters. In the old- 
en days, beaver skins passed as currency 
and every province can show records in 
which the exchange and barter of these 
pelts formed the principal part. 

But apart from its commercial value 
In the industrial world and in the realm 
of fashion the beaver is exceptionally in- 
teresting to students of natural wild 
life. It is possessed of such remarkable 
intinct and constructive ability coupled 
with energy and boundless capacity for 
industry that naturalists have made it 
the subject of considerab e study. 

Beavers Disappear from our Wilds 

The Canadian Pacific Railway recent- 
ly drew the attention of the people of 
Canada to the fact that our native 
beaver are rapidly becoming extinct and 
it issued considerable information rela- 
tive to feasibility of domesticatng the 
beaver or rather cultivating the animal 
in its wild state under domestic restraint. 
Just about a year ago the first beaver 
ranch in eastern Canada was successful- 
ly established in Prince Edward Island 
from which pelts have been sold at 
prices approximating $50 'apiece. A 
close season for trapping wild beaver 
has been proclaimed in Alberta by the 
provincial government in order to pre- 
serve the valuable little animals from 
extinction, and satisfactory results have 
thus early been obtained to this end. In 
Calgary, many colonies of beavers took 
up their abode in one of the most beauti- 
ful public parks of the city, which quick- 
ly showed evidence of the activities of 
this active animal. They became a dis- 
tinct pest in the course of time, and 
application was granted to trap the ani- 
mals and thus save the fine trees of 
the park from utter extinction. 

"Water Squirrels" 

In investigating the habits and 
characteristics of Canadian beaver, one 
obtains interesting data relative to 
its natural haunts, its habits and peculi- 
arities. For instance, beavers are de- 
fined as "big water squirrels." They 
belong to the order of gnawing animals, 
and are equipped with a pair of power- 

ful incisors which are really tools with 
which it achieves feats of construction 
and destruction. This class of animal 
is herbivorous and is not in any sense a 
fighter but is rather instinctively peace- 

Beaveis are much larger animals than 
are commonly supposed, weighing from 
35 to 60 pounds and measuring two or 
three feet in length exclusive of the flat 
spade shaped tail which may be ten 
inches or more in length. Its hind feet 
are webbed and its tai. is rather scaly 
in appearance, being devoid of fur. The 
hind feet and the tail enable the beaver 
to swim and exist in water as easily as 
on land, and its front paws are almost 
human in their manner of lifting up 
sticks, moving logs, etc. The fur, of 
course is brown but it varies in shading 
from a creamy shade to a deep chocolate 
tone. The real beaver fur that is used 
upon coats and scarves is the under fur 
over which stiff brown "water hairs" 
grow that protect the more de.icate pelt 

Their Habits 

Beaveis locate their habitats in 
streams along which biich or maple 
trees grow, for the bark of these trees 
is their favourite food, and when once 
they have selected their future home the 
building of the proverbial dam begins at 
once. The reason for the dam lies in 
the fact that the stream must be made 
deep enough to provide the beaver with 
winter quarters that are unfrozen at the 
bottom. So the beaver commences his 
dam in the autumn and expends infinite 
patience in gnawing down the trees 
which are to form part of their construc- 
tion. Their method of felling trees is 
unique and effective. They gnaw deep 
para. lei grooves around the trunk of the 
tree with their sharp front teeth, then 
they tear out the fragments that remain 
between the grooves, repeating this pro- 
cess until the tree falls over into the 
stream. Scientists have not quite de- 
cided whether or not the beaver actually 
guides the direction of the falling tree 
by his gnawing or whether trees grow- 
ing by the waters edge do not incline 
natural.y in that direction. However it 
is, the beaver generally manages to 
strip off the branches and gnaw the 
tree into short lengths which are then 
towed or floated out to the middle of 
the stream and weighted down with 
stones and mud. In those localities 
where beavers have been at work for 
years there are few trees left in the vi- 
cinity of the water's edge and so the little 
animals are obliged to go inland for 
their wood. If the beaver has a long 
distance to go he will try to construct a 
canal along which he can float his logs 
to save the exertion of hauling them. 
Even after the dam is finished, the beav- 

ers must continually repair and raise it 
as the water constantly trickling through 
quickly breaks it down if not closely 

Where Beavers Live 

In the summer months beavers live on 
the river bank in burrows but in winter 
they move inlo what is called a "lodge." 
This dwelling, which is constructed from 
branches, stones and mud contains two 
sections an upper and lower apartment. 
The lower one has two entrances into 
the water and is filled with the food sup- 
ply for the winter, such as twigs and 
boughs. Above are the actual living 
quarters of the animals, raised slightly 
above the surface of the stream. The 
walls of these lodges are usually three 
feet thick and are covered with sods 
just before the water freezes over by 
these marvellous little animals. 

Only one family of beavers occupies 
a lodge at one time, comprising the par- 
ent beavers and the young varying from 
two to five cubs. In the third year the 
older cubs are sent out to commence a 
home of their own, but when the colony 
gets overcrowded it is always the young- 
er beavers who seek a new home else- 

Necessity for Conservation 

It is high time that beavers were con- 
served and cultivated in Canada before 
they become well nigh extinct. Experts 
in wild life asserted that unless beaver 
farms are soon established beavers will 
become as extinct as the buffalo within 
20 years. Formerly they were numerous 
all over this continent, but in the Unit- 
ed States they are practicahy extermin- 
ated. The finest skins come from Lab- 
rador, Nova Scotia and Alberta. 

In the old days beaver fur was exten- 
sively used for the making of men's silk 
hats, but today it figures largely in 
coats, neckpieces, muffs and trimmings 
for women's wear. It is estimated that 
altogether some 80,000 skins are trapped 
in North America and about 1000 are 
imported from Asia. 

As an example of how the commercial 
value of the beaver skin has changed 
authority is given for the statement that 
fifty years ago the fur sold at $1. a 
pound whereas the price at the last 
auction held in Montreal was ranged be- 
tween $7.25 and $35. a piece. 

The question of the affiliation of the 
International Fur Workers' Union with the 
International Fur Workers' Secretariat, a 
world federation of International Fur 
Workers' Unions, was discussed at Montreal 
and the Canadian board issued instructions 
to the general officers to investigate and re- 
port on the matter at the next meeting of the 
board, which takes place in June. 

Dry Goods Review 



Fresh Shipments of Persian Lamb 

Are Reaching Canada in Pre-War Quantities — Foxes in All Col- 
ors To Be Good For Spring, Say Toronto Furriers — Stone Mar- 
ten To Be A Strong Second — Belief That Forming Of New 
Canadian Fur Auction Company Is Good Thing For Fur 



HAT WILL women wear this 
spring?" the busy fur manu- 
facturer repeated the question 
asked by Dry Goods Review. "You tell 
me when spring begins this year, and I 
will answer you. Merchants are still 
ordering their winter furs, just as 
though it were October or early Novem- 
ber. My factory has worked three nights 
a week since the middle of September. 
The retail stores will sell winter wraps 
and coats until late in February, this 
year." He then went on to say that 

the last few weeks have brought a re- 
markable change in the demand for fur 
coats. Previous to that, no matter how- 
great the demand was for coon or musk- 
rat, seal was wanted most of all. Now 
the call is for lamb. Enquiries and sales 
for this fur have' totalled nearly as 
much as the others altogether. "There 
is no doubt," he states, "that this is 
the surest indication of what will be 
worn next year. We manufacturers 
would like to see a return of the black 
Persian lamb. Almost all of the women 

who will ever buy a fur coat, will have 
one by the end of the season, so some- 
thing else must be pushed to take the 
place of seal. Moreover, the scarcity of 
the muskrat skins makes the vogue for 
the Hudson seal a real hardship for the 
manufacturer. Persian lamb is now be- 
ing shipped over to this country as it 
was previous to the war and there is 
no reason that it should not be used 

All the furriers are agreed that what- 
Continued on page 112 

A window on Yonge St., Toronto, which is attracting much a Mention these January days. The actual size of the window 

is only 10 x 4 but the screen at the hack and sides and the snow on the floor makes it look like a large forest. The 

falling snow is cotton glued to the window. Display by the Princess Fin- Co., Toronto. 



Dry Goods Revisuu 


Continued from page 111 

ever the spring will favor in chokers 
and scarves, there will at any rate be 
a large number of foxes. These will 
be in all colors, white, brown, Lucille, 
cinnamon blue and cross fox. The an- 
imal shape will prevail, fur being as a 
rule on both sides. Fox just had its be- 
ginning last spring- — a beginning which 
augurs well for one of the best seasons 
this fur has ever had, for the first few 
months of this year and for next fall as 

Stone marten is second to fox for this 
season. It is a fur which never be- 
comes strong enough to outgrow fem- 
inine interest and for that reason is one 
of the best year-in and year-out sellers. 
Two Toronto manufacturers believe that 
it will have a run this year. as never be- 
fore. Canadian marten will not be far 
behind in the race for second place. 
Furriers in this country, say that it is 
gratifying to see our women learning 
to appreciate Canadian furs. Women of 
other countries have demanded them for 
years — in fact Canadian furs are asked 
for in Europe as Russian sable is bought 

Mink and grey squirrel has by no 
means fallen below its usual standard 
of demand. These will be worn in both 
chokers and scarves. 

A Toronto wholesale furrier informs 
Dry Goods Review that the forming of 
the new Canadian company to promote 
fur auction sales is one of the best for- 
ward movements that has taken place 
in years. There will now be no reason 
for turning over the huge sums that 
have been spent heretofore on exchange 
when buying at the American marts. It 
will also mean quicker delivery in most 
cases. Moreover, it seems fitting that 
Canada, which is one of the largest 
fur-bearing countries in the world, 
should have a market and a distributor 
for its products. 

After-Christmas Sales Emphasize One 

Furriers who look for a business in 
winter furs after the New Year has set 
in, declare that it is always better to 
emphasize values at such a time of year. 
The style end of it is, as a rule, only 

Most women who delay buying their 
furs until January, do so because they 
want the best price they can get. These 
women have also the advantage of know- 
ing the accepted fur and style of the 
season. Invariably, retailers declare, 
the stress is laid by such purchasers 
on the most staple and practical furs. 
There is a growing tendency on the part 
of the consumer, to patronize special- 
ty fur shops in preference to fur de- 
partments in large stores, and there is 
a preference shown this year for stores 
of high-standing with a reputation for 
value-giving at sale events. Drastic 
measures were taken in December and 
are being continued into January by 

many stores, in a determined effort to 
reduce their stocks. 

Taking into account the heavy supply 
of skins which have come into the 
world's fur markets, the Canadian Fur 
Auction Sales Co., in a report on the 
raw fur situation, maint'ans that more 
serious consideration must be given to 
the working out of the law of supply 
and demand. The present indications 
show that the Canadian crop will be 
quite extensive and as far as prices 
are governed purely from a basis of 
supply and demand retailers should 
give this problem serious consideration 
just now. 

Better Prices 


Continued from page 91 

are especially wanted in these heavier 

Cotton crepes are being shown in a 
more artistic range than usual, in 
which the sweet pea design is decidedly 
the outstanding effect in patterns. The 
demand for American made crepes is 
steadily increasing as the quality has 
improved so greatly and is to be de- 
sired in preference to Japanese or 
other imported varieties. Lingerie crepes 
are also shown in new patterns such as 
birds, butterflies or figures. 

A warning is issued that if sufficient 
ginghams are desired to last throughout 
the season, orders must be placed at 
once. The demand for all kinds of ging- 
ham is enormous, especially in the check- 
ed pattern^, so that every available 
yard will probably be placed by the 
mills before long. Two toned shep- 
herd's plaid checks and four toned c, im- 
posite checks are very big just at pres- 
ent, but there is also a constant call for 
qnarter to inch sizes and larger checks. 
British ginghams are very effective 
this year in these checked effects, but 
the plaids are also noticeable on account 
of their smaller, neater composition. The 
dark colors are probably the best sellers 
so far, and such combinations as navy 
blue and white, brown and white, green 
and white and red and white will be 
seen later on for street and hcuse wear. 

New Tub Fabrics from Paris 

Although Canadian firms do not as 
a rule go in heavily for imported wash 
fabrics, yet those that do are always 
assured of the appreciation of really dis- 
criminating shoppers. The latest fash- 
ion with French dressmakers is called 
"Organdina" and this is said to be a 
fine cotton crepe which is admirably 
adapted for the making of wash frocks. 
All the French fabrics, whether of cot- 
ton or silk are featuring the "blistered" 
effect this season. This peculiar finish 
is known as the "Bulla" treatment and 
is not woven but applied to the finished 
goods. All the French wash goods in- 
cline to rather striking Oriental pat- 
terns, but the linen and the crash fab- 
rics are simple and plain, depending upon 
cleveir manipulation to bring out their 
latent possibilities. 

By February 

Canadian Fur Auction Sa'.es Co., Looks 

for Improvement — Europe Heavy 


Taking cognizance of the heavy sup- 
ply of skins which have come into the 
world's markets, the Canadian Fur Auc- 
tion Sales Co., Ltd., in a report on the 
raw fur situation, maintains that more 
serious consideration must be given to 
the working of the law of supply and 

The company, however, declares that 
it looks for an improvement in market 
conditions and for better prices than 
those now prevailing before its mid- 
winter auc.ions beginning Feb. 13. 

Consignments for the February sale, 
it is ascertained, are now being solicited 
by officials of the Canadian company, in- 
cluding Frank H. Pingree, the new gen- 
eral manager. 

It is reliably reported that up to 50 
per cent advance, based on the company's 
valuations, has been offered on con- 

The company's market report follows: 

"There has been but litt'e change in 
the fur market during the past few 

"At the opening of the season, buy- 
ers were over-enthusiastic and paid 
some exceptionally high prices, but the 
increasing volume of merchandise that 
came on the markets forced prices down 
to a more sound and justified basis. 
As we predicted, the catch in the States 
has been exceptionally heavy, and buy- 
ers throughout the trade have had some 
difficulty in financing the large quan- 
tities that have been offered in the var- 
ious centers. 

"The present indications are that the 
Canadian crop will be quite extensive, 
and buyers throughout the country are 
inclined to make their purchases as rea- 
sonable as possible. Europe wTl be 
large consumers of various kinds of fur, 
provided prices are kept within their 

"Fur prices are governed purely from 
a basis of supply and demand, and 
where the catch is large— such as it is 
this year — J his fact must be taken into 
consideration more seriously than ever. 

"All indications point to better prices 
and conditions as the season progresses: 
consequently, we feel that the market at 
the time of our coming sale, Feb. 13, 
1922, will be much improved." 


The annual general meeting of the 
Montreal Wholesale Millinery Associa- 
tion was held recently at the committee 
room at the Board of Trade, with a 
large attendance. 

Following are the officers elected for 
the ensuing year: President, J. W. 
Belisle; vice-president, E. J. Orkin; 
treasurer, S. H. Ivey, and directors, G. 
B. Beattie and B. M. Hallward. 

Dry Goods Revievj 




Continued from page 57 

Many retail merchants in the writer's 
observance, have not as yet written off 
the loss caused by depreciation in prices 
and they are thus able to make a show- 
ing on paper, which does not exist in 
fact. In the terms of the vernacular, 
it is bad business policy "to kid oneself" 
and the careful man of business will 
write his stock down in his January in- 
ventory to just where it belongs, plac- 
ing it on the market at a price which 
will show a reasonable profit on the re- 
placement cost. It is only by facing 
the situation, as it exists, and marking 
goods at a price to interest the public 
that the springs of business will once 
again begin to flow. Manufacturers, 
wholesalers and most of the retailers 
have taken their losses and know where 
they stand. Those who have not, should 
do so at once. 

Failures Among "Don'ts" 

While on the subject of inventories, 
what proportion of the retail merchants 
take stock annually? Most of the really 
successful ones do. Most of those who 
fail, don't. In the writer's experience 
with The Canadian Credit Men's Asso- 
ciation Limited, over a period of nine 
years, he has come in contact with hund- 
reds of merchants who have failed. Very 
few of them indeed were in the habit 
of taking stock and preparing an annu- 
al balance sheet. Had they done so, 
the danger signals would have been ap- 
parent and steps would no doubt, in 
many cases, have been taken to avert 
disaster. Why go it blind when annual 
balance sheets and trading statements 
were made to see with? 

With regard to balance sheets, how 
many merchants see fit to supply an- 
nually a copy of their statement to the 

Mercantile Agencies and The Canadian 
Credit Men's Association Limited? To 
do so is often as refreshing to your 
business as a good night's sleep is to 
you after a heavy Saturday. Many re- 
bailers feel insulted when asked for a 
statement. They feel more insulted 
when Credit men refuse to O.K. an or- 
der for shipment. Yet how is he to 
know; a "leap in the dark" is not a 
popular form of sport in these strenu- 
ous days. The merchant, whose posi- 
tion is sound, has nothing to fear from 
disclosing his standing to the organiz- 
ations whom his suppliers look to for 
information and the merchant, who 
finds himself getting into difficulties, 
would do well to consult his chief sup- 
pliers before it is too late. After the 
trying times through which we have 
passed, it is no disgrace to require ac- 
commodation and this is much more 
readily granted, when complete infor- 
mation is volunteered. Legislation 
passed in 1920, coupled with close co- 
operation Iwith creditors, has, during 
the period of depression, made it pos- 
sible for many businesses when taken 
in time to be saved from liquidation, 
and will continue to be the means of 
saving many during 1922. 

The future calls for hard work, close 
economy and the exercise of sound 
business judgment. With the exercise 
of these, a return to normal conditions 
is assured. 

late from the mills and most importers 
state that they have not yet received 
their orders which were booked last 
August for delivery in November. This 
condition applies to both domestic and 
foreign silk shipments. 


Continued from page 88 

and outer apparel, including fancy de- 
signs appropriate for sports clothes. 

Deliveries Later Than Usual 
A peculiar feature of the Spring seas- 
on is that deliveries are execepti:nally 


The latest statistics available on the 
fur-farming industry in Canada show 
the distribution by provinces as follows: 

Province of fur 


Prince Edward Island 309 

Nova Scotia 55 

New Brunswick 57 

Quebec 80 

Ontario 42 

Manitoba 2 

Saskatchewan 2 

A.berta 15 

British Columbia 11 

Yukon 14 

Total 587 

The raising of wild fur-bearing an- 
imals for the sake of their pelts, has 
been carried on in this country for more 
than forty years but it is only within 
the last decade that it has become one 
of the established industries. The fox 
has proved the most suitable for domes- 
tication, although some success has been 
attained in the raising of mink, skunk 
and raccoon. 


Mrs. Donald Fraser, wife of Donald D. 
Fraser, dry goods merchant of Strat- 
ford, Ont., died recently at her home. 
She leaves to mourn her loss, besides 
her husband, one daughter. 


anxious to do their Spring buying and it will mean a 
brisk trip for travellers when thoy once gel out with 
their showings. Sailors, turbans and other staple lines 
of millinery are going very well to begin with ; the veil- 
ing business has helped these lines along very nicely. 
Among the imported lines to be seen are some very 
striking models from Paris and New York. 

Some Accessory Lines 

Travellers are already on the road with ivory goewfe 
for Christmas 1922 but there is a noticeable tendency 
to give a less seasonal aspect to ivoryware and to promote 
its sale all the year round. A certain wholesale house 
in Toronto since Christmas has dropped prices from 20 
to 40 per cent, the average being 30 per cent. Some 
very good business has already been received. Tortoise 
shell Avare is being pushed with greater energy than 
formerly and it promises to be strong by Christmas. 
Handerehiefs are also being sold for Christmas this 
year; the Christmas just passed cleaned up stocks very 
well and a good demand is for immediate delivery. 
Pome bag retail sales of short gloves are in progress; 
the coming season promises a big demand for the long- 
glove with a gauntlet. 

from page 59 

Laces still continue very strong: the demand has 
been steady ever since fall. Prices from the wholesaler 
and manufacturer do not fluctuate. Embroideries have 
been rather slow. Manufacturers' agents here state that 
their mills are hungry for orders and that prices have 
dropped considerably since a year ago. They say that 
stocks arc clean, however, with the manufacturer and 
that he is only working on a guaranteed business. 

Advance showings of new leather goods in Toronto 
and Montreal have been very successful from the manu- 
facturers' point of view. Lingerie manufacturers say 
that the season will be one of the best they have ever 
had and the Canadian manufacturers generally are 
showing some most creditable merchandise both from 
the standpoint of style and qnaility. 

Ready-to- Wear 

Travellers have not been out on the road very much 
since the turn of the year but where they have hern 
they have received most encouraging businesss. They 
say that retail stocks are entirely cleaned up. Buying 
is careful but not stinted ait all as indicating that re- 
tailers are looking for a slack season. They are order- 
ing well. 



Dry Goods Review 

Conservative Styles in Knitted Goods 

Are Favored by Montreal Manufacturers 

Less Bizarre Designs in Sweaters Will be Shown — Tuxedo Will 
Still be Strong — Good Styles for Sports' Wear — Knitted Blouse- 
Coats Will be New Feature — Vogue for Knitted Bathing Suits 
Grows Each Month — The Knitted Cape for Beach Wear 

NO HARD and fast rules regard- 
ing styles in knitted garments can 
be laid down this season, declares 
a prominent Montreal authority on knit- 
ted goods. It all depends upon the pur- 
pose for which the garments are to be 
worn. There are those who say that 
dark shades will be the vogue and there 
are others who predict that fashionable 
women will prefer fancier designs and 
novel weaves and are tired of navies 
and blacks. And so we have arrived 
at a season when it will be permissible 
to select a style for every occasion and a 
color appropriate to the same, irrespec- 
tive of whether some fashion authority 
degrees brown or blue as the case may 

Insofar as Montreal manufacturers 
are concerned however, it is said that 
they wil! confine their efforts to the 
less' bizarre designs in sweaters and will 
put out only such models as are certain 
to appeal to the conservative tastes of 
the Canadian woman of the better class. 
Therefore, it is safe to predict that there 
will be more tuxedos of the strictly tail- 
ored sort shown than there will of the 
slip-over type, yet for young girls and 
children the latter kind of sweater is 
probably the most becoming and youth- 
ful sort of garment ever devised for the 
comfort of "sub-debs" and the young- 
er generation in general. 

Pullover Styles Good for Sports Wear 

To begin with the last named, we shall 
probably witness a great demand for 
Peter Pan sweaters complete with collar 
and cuffs of contrasting colors. One ma- 
ker says that he has registered a dis- 
tinct success with a black pullover mod- 
el in the simplest stitch which has a 
turn down collar and muffs of white 
angora. This sweater is also made in 
navy and camel and is undeniably smart 
and useful. A very large number of 
mens' and boys' sweaters have been sold 
this winter to women for sports wear. 
These are of the heavy white slip-over 
type with large rolling collar and close 
fitting neck and are especially good for 
winter sports. On this account the trade 
expects that the open neck pullover will 
stand a good chance of popularity next 
summer for golfing, etc. A very fetch- 
ing little model recently seen by Dry 
Goods Review was of Byng blue yarn in 
hip length with a kind of "breast-plate" 
effect made of looped strands of the 
same shade. Another was 1 of camel shade 
with horizontal inch-wide stripes of jade. 
These are distinctly on the order of ex- 

treme novelties however, and cannot be 
worn hy everyone. 

Tuxedo Still The Favorite 

Tuxedo styles are like the famous 
river which "goes on for ever" since 
they reappear for next spring in new 
stitches and n vel color combinations. No 
other style has yet been evolved which 
is so completely becoming to every wo- 
man, and it is safe to predict that 90 
per cent, of the sweater business done 
by the stores of Canada will be on tux- 
edos both plain and fancy. 

Art Silk Coats for Summer 

Expectations are that fibre-knit sweat- 
ers of art silk will carry the day es- 
pecially in more solid and plain designs. 
The ultra extreme and over elaborate 
models shown last summer which were 
trimmed with long fringe, etc., were 
neither smart nor serviceable and the new 
styles will not resemble them in the 
least degree. Instead the makers are 
featuring regulation tuxedo coats in 
long lengths made in ribbed or striped ef- 
fects in plain solid colors, mostly blacks 
and navies, which will be adopted by 
smart women to whom the plain style 
has always the greatest appeal. 

Silk and Wool Mixed is Effective 

A mixture of si.k and wool will be an- 
other important novelty, particularly at- 
tractive when it combines wool in one 
shade and a silk admixture in another. 
One such model is developed in a pretty 
heather mixture imbrowns, blues or fawn 
and features short sleeves with tuxedo 
collar and cuffs of brushed wool. There 
is a narrow string sash of wool, tipped 
with bushy tassels and the coat is bor- 
dered with narrow stripings of the pre- 
dominating color of the wool. This silk 
and wool mixture is decidedly more dressy 
than the regulation all-wool variety and 
will fill a decided want in this direction. 
For the young gnrl who loves out-door 
sports the same manufacturer is show- 
ing a simple iirtle pullover finished with 
a round monk's collar in white angora 
wool. This sweater comes in hrown, na- 
vy and fawn with white contrast. 

The straight tuxedo coat of Krepeknit 
or Chinchilla fabric is a new idea, that 
will probably be very successful when 
worn with a sports skirt of contrasting 
shade. This kind of coat is not worn 
for warmth but for style solely. 

Knitted Blouse-Coats 

From New York have come some nov- 
el sports sweaters which will shortly be 
copied by Montreal makers. Their prin- 

cipal claim to originality is in the fact 
that though they are pullovers they 
stimulate blouse coats cut on roomy lines 
with the low waist line gathered into a 
wide band on the hips. They are cut 
with deep V necks and the sleeves are 
beautifully fitted and are mostly short 
in length. On several of the models 
there is an unusual applique of fibre silk 
in a vivid cold contrast, cut into deep 
points all round the waist. On practic- 
ally all of these imported models there 
is a lavish use of silk and wool in com- 
bination so that it would appear as 
though this were to be the outstanding 
note in knitted goods for the spring 
and summer. 

Another manufacturer states that he 
is receiving constant calls for sweaters 
developed entirely of brushed wool and 
that he cannot begin to fill these orders 
on time. The wanted styles are entirely 
of solid colors, principally in brown, fawn 
and blue with a tuxedo collar, cuffs and 
belt of a deeper shade. The same house 
registered considerable success with a 
line of knitted dresses which they show- 
ed this winter and they expect to do 
equally as well with a coat and skirt cos- 
tume of wool, the skirt of which will be 
of white, stripped in black or colors, worn 
with a plain coat in a shade to match 
the striping. Striped blazers are another 
novelty shown for women and men, the 
color combinations being particuWly 
striking although the stripes are quite 

Knitted Bathing Suits Again Lead 

The doom of the knitted cape would 
appear to be sealed unless for beach 
wear or country use, but on the other 
hand the vogue for knitted bathing suits 
grows with every month. Anent the out- 
look for the, coming season in the latter 
classi of knitted goods, a prominent 
manufacturer expressed himself as be- 
ing very optimistic. 

"The unusually successful, although 
short season for 1921, showed how great 
was the consumer demand for the knit- 
ted bathing suit," he said. "And even 
though wholesalers and retailers are 
placing orders in larger quantities, I 
cannot foresee that there will be any 
surplus of goods. For years the knitted 
bathing suit has grown in popularity, 
due to many reasons, the most important 
of which are that the fabric was made 
better, so that it did not hang and sag 
and become shapeless, and also because 
knitted bathing-suit manufacturers con- 
Continued on page 115 

Dry Goods Review 



Operating Expenses of Department Stores in 1920 
Show Average Net Profit 1.8% of Net Sales 

Bureau Of Business Research Of Harvard University Issues 

Statement Compiled From Information From Department 

Stores in United States And Canada — Total Expenses Were 

25.9% of Net Sales— 305 Stores Heard From. 

DURING the past year the Bureau 
of Business Research of Harvard 
University has been collecting 
figures on operating expenses in depart- 
ment stores. This research was under- 
taken with the support and co-operation 
of the National Retail Dry Goods Asso- 
ciation in order to obtain data that 
might aid in securing greater economy 
in store management. The results also 
provide first-hand information on this 
important business for use in teaching 
the Graduate School of Business Ad- 
ministration, of which the Bureau is 
a part. 

Detailed profit and loss statements 
for the fiscal year 1920 were submitted 
to the Bureau by 305 department stores. 
Tabulations based on these reports show 
that the common figure for total ex- 
pense in department stores in 1920 was 
25.9% of net sales and the average net 
profit 1.8 '/r of net sales. 

The report recently sent by the 
Bureau to all firms which co-operated by 
submitting profit and loss statements is 
as follows: 

Report of the Harvard Bureau of 
Business Research. 

Operating Expenses in Department 
Stores in 1920 

Profit and loss statements for 1920 
were received from 305 department 
stores, located in thirty-nine states, in 
Canada, and one in Hawaii, with aggre- 
gate sales amounting to $535,193,000. 
The net sales of the individual firms 
ranged from $71,000 to $29,000,000. The 
reports of 266 stores were in sufficient 
detail for reliable tabulation of the items 
of expense for which common figures 
are in Table 1. Inasmuch as 1920 was 
not a normal year, these figures are to 
be used only as a guide for comparison 
with the 1920 results in the individual 
store. Definitions of what is included in 
each item of expense are given in the 
Explanation of the Schedule for Depart- 
ment stores previously sent to co-oper- 
ators and in the reports of the Standard- 
ization Committee of the Controllers' 
Congress. Total expense includes interest 
both on borrowed money and on the mt 
investment in the business, and a rent- 
al charge for the store whether the 
buildings are owned or leased. The fig- 
ure for Rentals includes insurance, taxes, 
repairs, and depreciation, paid in Ueu of 
rent. The figure for Advertising is the 
expense incurred for advertising space 
and does not include Publicity salaries 
and the smaller items of Pub'ic'ty ex- 

pense. The Net Profit figure represents 
net profit on merchandise operations 
before adding Sundry Revenue (Met) 
and Interest and Rentals Earned, and 
before deducting Provision for Income 
and Excess Profits Taxes. 

Of the 266 statements used in compil- 
ing Table 1, 110 gave a detailed distri- 
bution of salaries and wages. For these 
110 stores, common figures for the .sub- 
divisions of salaries and wages are 
shown in Table II. 

Table 1 

Operating Expenses in Department 
Stores in 1920 — 26t'< Stores 

Net Sales ^100'/ f 

Salaries and Wages 13.9% 

Rentals 1.9 

Advertising 2.0 

Taxes (Except on Buildings, 

Income, and Profits; 6 

Interest (On Capital-Borrowed 

and on Capital-owned) 2.1 

Supplies 8 

Service Purchased (Heat, Light, 

Power, Delivery) 6 

Unclassified 1.6 

Traveling 3 

Communication 2 

Repairs 3 

Insurance 4 

Depreciation (Losses from Bad 

Debts 2 

Other Depreciation 5 

Professional Services 1 

Total Expense 25.9 

Gross Profit 27 . 8 

Net Profit 1.8 

Table II 

Salaries and Wages in Department 
Stores in 1920—110 Stores 

(Net Sales = 100%) 

Administrative and General Ex- 
ecutive 1 • 5% 

Other Administrative 4 

Office 1.2 

Occupancy 6 

Publicity 4 

Buying' 1.7 

Receiving, Marking, and Stock- 
Room 2 

Inside Selling-Dricet 6.3 

Indirect 11 

Delivery 5 

Total Salaries and Wages 13.9. . 


Continued from page 114 

tinued to put more style into their gar- 

"The common tendency has been to 
stick to conservative ideas as far as put- 
ting new ideas and new vogues into the 
knitted bathing suit was concerned with 
the result that we find for years the 
manufacturers almost unanimously using 
a horizontal stripe or stripes of differ- 
ent colors in the body of the suit. There 
will be a tendency to feature vertical 
stripes next season, as well as plenty 
of other new trimming contrasts. I may 
say that the defects that formerly caused 
the knitted bathing suit to be criticized 
have now been practically eliminated. 
The knitted suit is serviceable and keeps 
its shape and insofar as its popularity 
is concerned, I may say that it sells in 
the proportion of 30 to each one of silk 
or satin. 

"My opinion is that the knitted bathing 
suit for men, women and children has 
come to stay, for the marked increase 
in sales proves that the consumer re- 
gards it as the most practical swim- 
ming garment." 

Feature Capes With Bathing Suits 

Another prominent importer of knitted 
goods pointed out that the retailer who 
finds) htimsellcf overstocked on knlitted 
cp^ies should push them with the bathing 
suits later, combining both garments in 
sets, specially priced. There will be a 
certain demand for these capes in this 
connection once the bathing season sets 

George D. Montgomery, traveler for 
the Cobourg Carpet & Matting Co. died 
at his home in Toronto, on December 11 


London, England, boasts a new light- 
less advertising sign, which the manu- 
facturer claims, saves between 50 and 
70 per cent, of the ordinary cost of the 
lighted sign. This new sign is visible 
by day or night without electricity. It 
is called "Catchlite." A piece of glass 
is silvered and fluted horizontally. A 
second piece of clear glass has flutings 
at right angles to the first. The first 
is placed under the second, the outside 
one being painted on the interior in var- 
ious colors. The portion which is re- 
quired to form the letters or signs de- 
sired, is left clear of paint, so that the 
silvered glass shines through. This 
gives a brilliant light both in daylight 
and in dark. 



Di-y Goods Review 

How Worsted Yarns Are Made 

Industry Is A New One In Canada And Splendid Progress Has 
Been Made — Unballing The Wooltops — Other Operations Des- 
cribed—The Process Of Dyeing The Most Difficult— Useful 
Points For The Salesman. 

THE making of worsted yarns is a 
comparatively new industry in 
Canada, yet it has already reach- 
ed a stage where it can compete with 
those made in most other countries. 
In one or two instances, manufacturers 
have even been called upon to instruct 
representatives from mills in the British 
Isles and the Uni.ed States, in the use 
of improvements which have been dis- 
covered here. Most Canadians en- 
gaged in the industry here, make the 
better grades of wool, either for use in 
their own garments or for hand-knit- 
ting. The cheap grades require to be 
made in such quantities in order to ob- 
tain a worth-while profit, that Cana- 
dians are content to let British mills 
supply the needs of this country. It is 
only by making the best brands that 
Canada will be known for its yarn- 
making as it now is for its homespuns 
and tweeds. 

The proprietor of a worsted knitting 
mill in Toronto, that of Aked & Co., al- 
lowed a representative from Dry Goods 
Review to make a call on his factory and 
watch the yarn in the process of making. 
The who'.e process was so interesting 
that it seemed worth while reproducing 
for the trade. Very often merchants 
themselves have ,a fair idea of how most 
of the fabrics they carry are made, but 
clerks who actually handle them, have 
not an opportunity of calling on manu- 

Received Here In Wooltops 

The wooil is only carded or combed 
when it enters the spinning factory. It 
comes from the English or Scotch mill 
in huge balls of soft wool stripes about 
two inches wide and an eighth of an 
inch thick. It resembles strips of very 
fine and soft cotton batting more closely 
than anything else. This wool is called 
"wooltop," when in the condition describ- 

This wooltop is first "unbailed," that 
is, passed through a machine which se- 
parates the wool into a loose mass still 
in one long strip but more easily handled 
than when worked on from the original 
ball. It is then blended, that is, several 
strips are passed through a machine to 
form one strand. Spooling is the next 
process. Each strand is worked onto 
a large spool which is one of hundreds 
placed in long rows for the next opera- 
tion. This is one of the most interest- 
ing of all. The contents of two spools 
of loose thick wool pass into the machine 
to come out of it as one close, thin 
strand, or three or four or five strands 
spun into on e according to the type of 
yarn required. Twisting is the last op- 
eration — some machines draw into one 

strand and twist at the sairte time. 
Twisting is done by means of a "flyer" 
which revolves at a terrific speed, wind- 
ing the strands as it goes. The yarn 
is now in a circular uniform shape, the 
thickness of which depends on the mim- 
ber of strands of which it is composed 
and the quality of yarn used. The ma- 
chines used in this work are constructed 
in such a way that when one spool runs 
out, the whole thing automatically stops. 
There is therefore no danger that a 
four-ply yarn, for example, should be 
only three-ply in some parts because 
one spool has stopped feeding its strand 
for ia time. As far as the making of 
the yarn is concerned, it is now ready 
for hand-knitting as soon as it is wash- 
ed and bleached or dyed. 

Scoured In Soap-suds 

The yarn which has a great deal of 
oil in it is now placed in a Large vat 
of soap-suds and rolled through it sev- 
eral times before being rinsed. The 
water is then extracted from it by cen- 
trifugal motion. The container in which 
this is done, revolves at such a rate — 
850 revolutions per minute — that 85 per 
cent, of the moisture is removed before 
it is placed in the drying closet. Or- 
dinary warm air is used to remove the 
dampness which remains. 

In the case of white wool, washing is 
not sufficient to give a good color. It 
must be bleached. The yarn is placed 
over night in a peroxide bath and then 
kept for another twenty-four hours in 
strong sulphur fumes. The whiteness 
of the finished wool cannot always be 
attributed to the method of washing or 
bleaching but to the original quality 
of the wool used. 

Dyeing The Yarn 

The dyeing process is probably the 
most difficult of all, because it requires 
more care than the other operations. 
The selection of dyestuffs must be done 
by an expert. In one or two colors, 
there are American and British dyes 
which are very good but most of the 
best ones are still obtained from Europe, 
particularly from Switzerland. In 

European dye factories, where they have 
studied dyes for hundreds of years, each 
man is taught how to make one color 
and nothing else. In this way the general 
secrets of dye-making are never dis- 
closed. This is one of the reasons why 
the industry has had such up-hill work 
in America. 

The yarn is dyed by passing it 
through the solution while suspended in 
skeins on revolving rods. It is then 
"extracted" as described above, and 
dried in the warm closet. 

To make Oxford grey yarn, two black 
wooltops are fed to the drawing ma- 
chine for every one of white. As the raw 
black wooltop is more expensive than 
the white, this yarn is often dearer than 
the white or co'.ored, even though the 
processes of bleaching and dyeing are 
not used in making it. In order to make 
heather yarn, it is necessary to dye the 
different yarns first and then spin them 
into one strand. Where a mercerized 
silk and wool is required, the silk and 
wool may be spun together before dye- 
ing, as the silk does not take the dye 
to any extent. 

Made Into Balls 

As it is difficult to handle in loose 
skeins, the yarn is first wound into large 
cones which hojd it firmly for the next 
operation. It is then made into small 
diamondi-shaped balls by means of a 
machine which shapes and balls at the 
same time. The balls are finally sub- 
jected to a drying process which makes 
them full and light and are then brand- 
ed. They are then boxed, usually 
twenty-four balls to a box and shipped 
to the retailer in a condition which 
makes makes them attractive display 
articles for his counter. 

Some Canadian mills, have so far, 
not used their own brand to the same 
extent as is done by British manufac- 
turers. They have been content to place 
the names required by the leading 
wholesale and retail houses, on the or- 
ders sent them. Now, however, they 
are beginning to use trade-names which 
will distinguish their make from every 
other, because the trade and the con- 
suming public are becoming more and 
more satisfied with the worsted yarn 
made in this country. 


A most successful convention of trav- 
elers, managers and sales staff brought 
1921 to a close for the firm of Alphonse 
Racine, Ltd., followed by a dinner at 
the Place Vigar hote 1 , at which instru- 
mental and vocal music and community 
singing formed the principal entertain- 
ment and were entered into with great 
gusto by all the guests. 

Visits to the company's factories, lec- 
tures and discussions on sales topics as 
seen by both indoor and outdoor sales 
staffs, formed the main features of the 
convention, and revealed a most optim- 
istic feeling pervading the whole person- 
nel, as to the prospects for the future. 
The event covered three days. 

Dry Goods Review 



Early Year Knitted Goods Sales 

The Merchant Whose Merchandise Is Dependable The Year 
Round Will Cash In On January And February Sales — Cus- 
tomers Want One Hundred Cents Worth Of Quality For Each 
Dollar — Stress Infant's Wear More — Giving Service To 


JANUARY and February sales are 
bigger features than ever among the 
i-etail stores of this country. The ap- 
peal of thrift is finding a ready re- 
sponse in every city and town in Canada. 
Consciously or unconsciously the public 
is asking; Is a dollar worth a hundred 
cents when changed into merchan- 
dise? Genuine reductions and good mer- 
chandise are the chief factors in sales 
during the first two months of 1922. 
Both of these phases of the sale question, 
present, at times, real difficulties. 
Stocks, because of the conservative buy- 
ing policy of 1921 are very low compared 
with previous years. For this reason, 
one prominent retailer believes, that on 
lines which must be replenished, it is 
better not to buy merchandise on which 
reasonable reductions cannot be made. 
The merchant who is satisfied to conduct 
his sales on the basis of stocks on hand, 
will, this year, have better results in the 
long run. 

Merchandise of the serviceable and 
staple variety should, as a rule, pre- 
dominate during these sales months. Of 
course, a small percentage of new goods 
is necessary to freshen up the appear- 
ance of the stock. Many customers at this 
time of year, are people, women 
especially, who have received mon- 
ev gifts for Christmas. The appeal 
of thrift is the primary one to such 
shoppers. They think of this money as 
a nest egg, to be used when time and ad- 
vantage present themselves. Then there 
is the big class of men and women, and 
it is bigger than ever this year, who 
practise thrift as a matter of course. 
The word "Economy" and its allies are 
fvo biggest words in the advertising vo- 
cabulary of the merchant of today. 

All-Year-Around Confidence Backbone of 
January Sales 

The live merchant, knows that the 
sales he looks forward to in January 
and February will never reach his ex- 
pectations, unless he has the confidence 
of the public during the whole year. 
There is a store in a small city in 
Ontario, which owes its very existence 
to the fact that it has built up a satis- 
fied clientele. This store is considered 
high-priced by the average women and 
is therefore, during ordinary times, only 
patronized by the better cla^s of shop- 
pers. During a sale however, it is re- 
markable how many other people are 
drawn inside its doors. The manager be- 
lieves that the saying which is on the 
lips of most of the women in his town 
is responsible for the general appeal. It 

is: "When Blank Blank & Co. advertises 
a sale, you know it is genuine." He 
never buys specials and though he may 
lose immediate opportunities by so doing, 
he has gained life-long friends by re- 
ducing only the stock which was origin- 
ally marked in his store at a higher 

If there is any department where 
service should be stressed more than in 
others it is in the infants' section. Only 
those stores which encourage mothers to 
bring their children, will make a suc- 
cess of infants' wear. Thh service 
question as it applies to encouraging 
trade, can be settled in many ways, be- 
sides hovering constantly over mother 
and child in an effort to sell anything 
and everything on the counter. Atten- 
tion to the matter of seating accommoda- 
tion, means service. A representative 
of Dry Goods Review recently made a 
cal. on a general store in Northern Ontar- 
io, which boasted a counter for babies' 
needs. At that counter there was not a 
single chair to be seen. There was more- 
over, a feeling about the place which 
discouraged the taking of time, which is 
so essential to a mother who carries an 
infant while making purchases. 

Service to Mothers 

An American store has solved the 
problem in a very satisfactory way. In 
a small section of the department there 
are several easy chairs and couches 
where mothers and babies may have gar- 
ments which are to be tried on, brought 
to them. Besides this, there is a scale 
where babies are weighed free — an ac- 
commodation which many mothers who 
have their children on a special diet, take 
advantage of. Diapers are hemniea 
here free of cost. Women are taught 
how to cut and sew garments for in- 
fants. Most important of all, the sales- 
women in this department are "hand- 
picked." Girls who understand children 
are chosen. Every clerk cannot make a 
success of selling to young children. 
Sometimes the best saleswoman at an- 
other counter, is the poorest choice for 
this section. On the other hand, a girl 
of only mediocre ability will win many 
friends for this store, if she possesses 
sympathy and patience. Crowds nearly 

always frighten children. That is the 
principal reason why babies which are 
usually well-behaved, will become hy- 
sterical in stores. One of the first 
things a saleswoman should know, is that 
time must be given babies, to become 
accustomed to the general surroundings, 
before they are fitted with caps and 
wraps. Crying babies keep the mothers 
of other babies away, because, of all the 
ills that children are heir to, crying is 
the most contagious of all. 
An Infants' Department in Every Store 
There is not a specialty shop in this 
country to-day, selling infants' and chil- 
dren's wear exclusively, which is not 
making a success of it. Department 
stores which emphasize this section, re- 
port excellent profits. Then why do not 
more merchants in Canada, have infants' 
departments? Experience has taught 
that they will never sell as many lines 
or as much of any line, while they keep 
them all in the store. A section for 
children is as essential as one for men. 
Mothers are the very best customers. 
Children rapidly outgrow their clothes if 
they do not wear them out. A mother's 
tendency is to buy for her children rather 
than for herself. If times are bad, she 
will buy baby things and save in the 
merchandise she ordinarily purchases in 
other departments. 


The Thomson Knitting Co. Ltd., form- 
erly at 15 Morrison Ave., Toronto, have 
moved' to Bowmlanville, Ontario. No 
change has been made in the staff. 


The Jas. Ogilvy Company of Montreal 
tried out an unusual feature in the way of 
publicity this month when they advertised 
that one of the leading artists at a local 
theatre would give an exhibition of her skill 
at the store on a certain morning. This 
demonstration was to take the form of a 
shopping tour undertaken by "Shireen" the 
girl with the "X-Ray" eyes, who would walk 
blindfold from the theatre down St. Cather- 
ine Street to the Ogilvy store where she 
would demonstrate her mysterious power. 
The affair was widely advertised and en- 
ormous crowds gathered along the street 
and in the store to await her arrival which 
she did completely blindfolded. She walked 
through the store telling colors, textures and 
prices of goods, and describing the sales 
staff accurately, to the amazement of the 
crowd. As the annual January sale was in 
progress many attractive bargains were 
arranged to attract visitors on this occasion. 



Dry Goods Review 


The Underwear 
ihatOVervtears 34 




E. H. Walsh & Company 

Montreal 8t Toronto 

Selling Agents for Quebec, Ontario and Western Provinces 


— to the woman who knows 

Whatever texture, whatever color is wanted 
for the occasion 


will supply the need. You are confident of 
satisfying when you carry our line. 


White, Black, Navy, Tan, Cordovan Grey, 

Beaver, Champagne 

Silk and lisle hosiery 

attractively boxed for the fastidious buyer 

A. Burritt & Co. 

Mitchell, Ont. 

Established 1875 

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair 
Men's Seamless Gloves, Pullovers, Toques, 
Boys' and Men's Ribbed Worsted Hosiery. 

Dry Goods Review 




A Leader 


Your Trade 

No. 368 

This smart model is knit 
full fashioned from ex- 
tra quality yarn. Black 
and white form the con- 
trasting stripe effect on 
the long tuxedo collar 
and cuffs, also the hem 
of the skirt. Comes in 
combination of all 
popular colors. 

This is but one of the 
many interesting Burritt 
ines we are prepared to 
show you. 

Our travellers are now on the road with samples for 
Spring and Fall delivery. 


Mitchell, Ont. 

Established 1875. 

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair Men's 

Seamess Gloves, Pullovers, Toques, Boys' and Men's 

Ribbed Worsted Hosiery. 

^ IfliiM.mjjgfe ni^ ^nfiv ii ^^^ 



Dry Goods Review 


For Spring 1922 is now Being 

Novelty Coats, Scarfs, Girls' Middies, Children's Smocks and Pullovers. 
Boys' Jerseys, Shawlettes, Bathing Suits for" Men, Women and Children. 

The New Style Ideas are First 


Dru Goods Review 




Shown By Our Representatives 

The new styles are here shown for your approval within a few weeks of 
the opening of the spring selling season. They show the newest style 
tendencies and thev set the stvles wherever shown. 

Seen in the Ballantyne Range 




Di-y Goods Revieiv 

Announcing the removal of our Factory and Office to 

Bowmanville, Ontario 

Our new quarters have been equipped to increase, if possible, our service to our 

The following lines are made by expert Canadian Operators for the special require- 
ments of the Canadian trade — 

"Italian Silk" Hosiery for Ladies and Misses 

"Leader" 2/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children 

"Jack and Jill" 1/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children 

The superior finish of these brands is carried out in new labels and attractive 
packages. Give these three popular brands a prominent place in your Hosiery De- 

Thomson Knitting Co., Limited 

Manufacturers of Quality Hosiery 

Bowmanville, Ontario 


Win. R. Begg & Co., 20 Wellington St. West, Toronto. 

J. B. Trow & Co., Old Birks Building, Montreal. 

A. E. Montgomery, 212 Hammond Block, Winnipeg, Man. 

Protected by Canadian Letters Patent No. 131,529 and Canadian Lstters Patent No. 123,703 

The Visor "4 in 1" Sweater 

(Four Sweaters in One) 

Note the four ways the collar can be worn. The most practical and best 
selling coat on the market. Made in many weights in HALF CARDIGAN. 
SHAKER and JUMBO stitch. 

We make also this year the best SHAWL COLLARS on the market in all 
our lines. Also V-NECKS. PULL-OVER sweaters with stripes, and other 
lines of PULL-OVERS for Men and Ladies. Also Double Reversible CAPS. 
UNBRUSHED. We have added several new attractive lines this year, 
both in Men's, Ladies' and Boys'. Some of them light weight, all with 
the superior VISOR finish. 

One of our representatives will call eai'ly in the season. Don't place your 
order until you have seen our complete line. 

We particularly RECOMMEND our new light weight coat called 
DUROTEX. It is the best of its kind on the market. It is a BIG 



Factories also at Niagara Falls, N. Y. 

Dry Goods Review 






The Dry Goods Economist, Ameri- 
ca's leading fashion journal has al- 
ready begun to predict the fashions 
for next spring. Of one thing they 
are sure, — that sports wear will be more 
fashionable than ever, and that the leading 
fabrics will be knitted fabrics and home- 

Hawthorn Fabrics have been gaining more and 
more prestige every year, partly because of 
their beautiful draping qualities and delightful 
shades, but even more so on account of their 
genuine serviceability, and the fact that they 
will not crease or sag. 

It will pay you to lay in a good stock of gar- 
ments made from these splendid fabrics. Write 
us for list of manufacturers who use Hawthorn 
Fabrics in their new spring coats, suits and 



ifflade in Qarlctou Place, Out., by Hawthorn Mills, Limited 




Dry Goods Review 

The Acme of Comfort 
and Durability 

Peerless Underwear is ever satisfying the 
demands of descriminating customers with 
its fine texture, its neat fitting and wearing 

Retailers all over Canada find it a pro- 
fitable line to handle. 

For Women — Children — Infants. 



E. R. Woodiil, 123 Roy Bldg., Halifax.. 


Ernest Hamel, 66 Rue de L'Eglise, 
Quebec, Que. 

R. C. Poyser, 417 King's Hall Bldg., 
St. Catherine St. W., Montreal, Que. 

C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St. 
W., Toronto, Ont. 

Hanley & MacKay Co., 407 Hammond 
Bldg., Winnipeg, Man. 

J. J. MaeKay, 504 Mercantile Bldg.. 
Vancouver, B.C. 

Company Limited 

Controlled by 


Season follows Season 

in the demand for 

Our All-wool Plaids 
and Stripes 

Sport Caps 
Heather Sox 


Men's & Boys' 






Mitchell Woollen Co., 


Mitchell Ontario 



Salesmen are nowjon the road with samples of 
the latest "CELTIC" lines, plain, and with 
hand-finished embroidered clocks in designs 
that will please your customers. 

Selling Agents: 


224 Empire Bldg. 

313 Fort St. 

325 Howe St. 

The Celtic Knitting 

14 Turgeon St. Montrea 

Dry Goods Review 




» Comfort 


There's Quick Sales 
Action for the Dealer 
who Displays — 

Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets 

Few women can resist the appeal of Kenwood colorings, the quality of the blanket 
and the attractive price. This fact has been demonstrated by many dealers. 


White, Delft Blue, Tan, 


Rose-white, Blue-white, Tan- 
white. Rose-blue-white. Rose- 
tan-white, Blue-tan-white. 

Kenwood Bed Blankets are woven of clean, new (virgin) 
wool only — selected wool which creates a firm, sound 
fabric, soft, warm and durable. Size 72 x 84. Weight 4 
pounds each blanket, 8 pounds the pair. Binding either 
whipped all 'round with worsted, or across ends with 
3-inch satin ribbon. 

And to Help You Profit from This Display- 
window material that strikingly features the advantages of Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets, FREE 
to dealers purchasing 12 (or more) pairs of Kenwood Bsd Blankets. Particulars on request. 

Kenwood Mills, Ltd., Arnprior, Canada 



Dry Goods Review 

New Dods-Knit 
Lines Are Opened 


See This Trade 

Mark on Every 


Selling Agents 

Ontario and Western 
Canada : 

R. Reade Davis 

Manchester Building 

33 Melinda Street, 

Toronto, Ontario. 

Quebec and Maritime 

William C. Forster, 

128 Bleury St. 
Montreal, Quebec. 


E are pleased to announce to the 
trade that we have opened our new 
lines for Fall delivery 1922. 

Our Selling Agents have full sets of 
samples, and are now touring their respect- 
ive territories. 

Do not decide upon your requirements 
until you have seen the new samples — 
they're good ! 

Two Additions This Year 

are — Beaver Fleece for ladies and children 
made up in 

Vests and drawers, combinations and 
bloomers for ladies. 

Waists, bloomers and sleepers, vests, 
drawers and combinations for children. 

Each garment will be stamped with our 
new trade-mark — our guarantee that the 
quality is there. 

All lines have been made out of new 
stock, so that we are able to touch rock bot- 
tom with prices. 

Our new factory is completed, and with 
the addition of the most up-to-date bleach- 
ing, knitting appliances, etc., — the Dods 
Scotch and Elastic Knit guaranteed 100'' 
pure wool, Dods Merino and Dods-Knit 
Beaver Fleece lines are the best that money 
can buy. 

The Dods Knitting Company Limited 


Dry Goods Review 




Tr nn 

"British, Founded 1883" 




Spring and Fall 

Our Travellers have left 
with a full range of new 
lines and standard goods. 

We have made all provi- 
sion possible to meet the 
demands for the coming 

Our agents can rely on 
our best endeavors in the 
execution of orders, which 
should be placed as early 
as possible. 


243 Bleury Street - Montreal 


Made in Canada 
For Infants and Children 

J E_M knit goods sell throughout 
the year. Different weights for 
different seasons. Mothers 

quickly realize that the dainty 
warmth-giving JEM knit goods 
are necessary for the baby's 
health and wardrobe. 



Dry Goods Review 


\/na Standard 
^for Style, Quality and Value 



KM ONARCH-KNIT products offer you the biggest range 
of styles and the best values in Sweaters/ Hosiery, 
Yarns, Jerseys, Bathing Suits and other Knitted apparel for 
men and women. The Monarch-Knit label is virtually a 
guarantee of quality. When the Monarch-Knit salesman 
calls at your store, be [sure to] see his samples, for they 
embody the very newest styles in knitted garments and 
novelty knit goods. 

The Monarch Knitting Co., Limited 

Head Office: Dunnville, Ont. 

Factories: Dunnville, St. Catharines and St. Thomas, Ontario 

The Monarch Knitting Co., " Ltd. 
Hub rule Bldg., Phillips Square 

Dm Good* Review 



These Stockings In 

Stockings for women en- 
joy a greater prestige and sale 
than any other one style of 
hosiery in Canada. 

The comfort, durability, and 
economy of "Three Eighties" 
have built their reputation and 
make them a really consistent 

"Three Eighties" are a seamless 


The Chipman-Holton Knitting Com 

Mills at Hamilton a 



Dry Goods Review 

The Toe is more Tapering 
And the Heel is Deeper in 

Circle-Bar Hosiery 

These are only two of the many points which 
mark Circle-Bar Hosiery as different 
other lines, and make it easy to sell. 

All styles in silk, wool and cot- 
ton, for men, women and child- 


Superior Quality 
gives satisfaction 

Elastic Top 

gives Comfort 

Perfect Weave 

gives beauty 
Narrowed Ankle 

adds shapeliness 
Deeper Heel 

prevents wrinkled instep 
unforced Feet 

give durability 
Tapering Toe 

provides comfort 

The Circle-Bar Hosiery Co., Limited 

Head Office : Kincardine, Ont. - Mills at Kincardine and Owen Sound 

•i n-y.v-n v x y y )i v if y y-x-x-y \ 1 1 K.x-y.y.y g y g xwri-m i 

For the highest 


at the 
Lowest prices. 

Place your orders with 



124 KING ST. W. 


Manufacturers of 

Complete Uniforms for Baseball, Hockey, 
Soccer and Rugby, also Gymnasium and 
Basketball Jerseys and Knickers, Boy 
Scout Uniforms, all wool Bathing Suits 
and Swimming Trunks, Girls' Middy 
Blouses and Gymnasium Bloomers, and 
a full range of White Duck Clothing. 

Write for prices 

We will give your enquiry 
prompt and careful attention. 

i3333giErxmxccEiimraa3 zmna 

Dry Goods Review 



JUIV"^^ TjflL(t»«<^/\ QHwi^^S^^ n^i ^ t6>w * IB v !^ ^^S^tfSbn^^S ^QJ^niDUB^^N ^^Me^ xm *%^' 

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^^ffinfo u yqF^?& y ^HT^ M ^<E^^ 

There is only one make of 
knitted underwear made in 
Canada — that is reinforced 
at all wearing parts. 

That is 

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Our travellers 
are now on 
the road 
with new 
samples and 
prices — 
with a full 
line of 
and Turn- 
and Infants' 


Don't place 
your order 
until you 
have seen 
our lines. 

Made only by gfa 

of Gait, Canada 

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^»t WO°S ( \ *<"U WCtf* , 



Drv Goods Review 

Novelties in Accessory Lines 

Glove Manufacturers Concentrating on Long Styles — Safety 
Pocket for Envelope — The "Snappon" Umbrella Coming to 
Canada— Look For Season of Colored Hose— Some of the Latest 

Footwear Styles 

GLOVE manufacturers are very 
anxious to prevent a repetition 
of the shortage of last season in 
long gloves. In fact some firms are 
making the gauntlet and long glove al- 
most, to the exclusion of the two-clasp 
glove. Of course, this "is partly due to 
the fact that the re:ail trade is heavily 
stocked with short gloves which give 
little promise of moving. There is a 
decided inclination moreover, to reduce 
the prices on short gloves. Merchants 
are anxious tj get rid of them as they 
do not look forward to a return in 
favor of these even by Fall. The pre- 
vailing shades for Spring will be sand, 
mode, beaver and the greys. 

Leather Novelties 

The leather envelope with the safety 
pocket is being introduced in all the 
Spring shades in the novelties just ar- 
rived from New York. Eerise leather is 
favored in square and circular shapes 
for handbags in the new soft shades. A 
novel canteen and vanity bag is prob- 
ably the last word in purse creations. 
Two kinds of leather are often shown 
in these. Moire is used as lining, the 
soft pastel shades being specially flav- 
ored. The fittings are usually of bright 
metal, which are said to give Lnger 
wear than those of the silver finish. 
The vanity type of handbag is the one 
that designers fancy particularly at the 
moment. The models are varied, some 
coming to a narrow point and others 
following the long envelope style. Ster- 
ling butt n clasps and corners ornament 
them and some have even cord handles 
and tassels. 

Filigree tops of green gold are fan- 
cied for many of the vanities. They 
are used also on the pouch bags of 
moire silk. 

Spring Parasols 

The "Snappon" umbrella which has 
been taken hold of in so many of the 
American cities, will very shortly be 
made in Canada. This umbrella has 
different covers for every costume, 
covers which can be slipped on the 
frame at a moment's notice. Fabrics 
for this line include umbrella silks in 
the high sports shades, fancy water- 
proof silk brocades and a rubberized 
silk for use in bathing. Handles and 
ferrules are made fcr this parasol in 
all the novelty types and in amber, 
ebony and bakelite. 
Great Expectations for Colored Hose 

Rarely does a Spring season pass 
without some color fad in hosiery. This 
year manufacturers are expecting a 

vogue for beige, sand, nude, taupe and 
grey. In fact, the demand for these is 
expected to be as as that for 
black. The sheer stocking will hold its 
own, according to one of the leading- 
retail stores in Toronto which says that 
in the better class of hose, women 
have been asking for sheer lines, par- 
<ticwlarly chiffon, more than f_r any 
others. Silk net is the second choice 
by particular patrons. 

The fad for white hose with colored 
slippers, which was brought over to 
Canada a little late last Summer, will 
be in full swing this year. This will 
mean a record business in white hose. 
As the vogue for cotton dresses is 
promised again, this is also given as a 
reason why white will toe the biggest 
seller during the midsummer. 

Footwear Styles 

All the new style tendencies in shoes 
were presented at the eleventh annual 
convention of the National Shoe Retail- 
ers' Association which met in Chicago 
on January 10. The fancy shoe was 
again exploited and color played a con- 
spicuous part in most of the models. 
The exhibition was very satisfactory 
from the point of view of variety — 
two hundred mannequins took part in 
the promenade. The strong tendency 
toward novelty footwear received a 
great stimulation at this exhibit. 
Prominent retailers say that the dec- 
orated shoe has come to stay and that 
women are Very mucih interested in 

Black shoes trimmed with brilliant 
red were shown not only for evening 
wear but for the street as well. Red 
heels which were confined mostly to 
the stage last seascn, were introduced 
by several manufacturers. Black patent 
leather and black satin made the body 
of many models, with narrow strips of 
red leather as trimming, as well as the 
red leather heels. Even the new Cuban 
heel was shown in red. 

Although red predominated at the 
Revue, bright blue and green trims 
giave a pleasing touch of color to some 
models. That grey has not been rele- 
gated to the days of past and f -rgotten 
glories, was very evident from the 
numbers of afternoon slippers and street 
shoes shown in grey suede with black 
sa'.in or black patent combination. 

TAe Oxford Again 

The Oxford was very prominent at 
the exhibition and while the plain walk- 
ing Oxford was shown in tan and black 
calf and with Cuban and very low heels, 
the only actual change in theim was in 
the contrast of colors rather than in 
the style. 

Straps were a feature of all the 
shoes from the evening pump with 
four straps to the walking shoe wijh one. 

White was very strong in combina- 
tion with bright colors or black but it 
was not shown to any extent alone. In 
fact, in most cases, color was used in 
equal proportion with white. Broad 
bands or the entire vamp or even the 
heel was of the color and the rest was 
white'. Of course there were many 
models which had white heels. 

For evening wear the colored tinsel 
falbrics were displayed extensively. 
Black brocaded slippers were also shown 
with straps' or buttons of rhinestone. 
The stockings worn with these slippers 
were usually plain; fancy hose with 
drawnwork or beading were the excep- 
tion rather than the rule. 

Hiking shoes which were so prom- 
inent a year ago, were not very much 
in evidence. Shoes for children had the 
very square toe and the high shoes dis- 
played black patent leather vamps with 
white kid uppers. Dress slippers for 
children were in black patent leather 
or white kid and had an ankle strap. 

Women's boudoir slippers featured 
the mule with the back, which, after 
all, should be welcomed as being more 
comfortable than the ones worn dur- 
ing the last year or two. 

There were two features which were 
(Continued on page 135) 

Dry Goods Review 



What Paris Says About Lingerie 

Combinations Are Strongly Favored — French Woman Wears a 

Boudoir Cap — Pyjamas a Part of Every Outfit — Many Fancy 

Garters Seen — The "Leap Into Beds" 

PARIS, December 28th, 1921 

LINGERIE: Such is the subject I 
tDld you in miy last letter I would 
write about this month. In fact 
there is nothing very new to say on 
this subject. The general fashion, in 
spite cf all trials, is priatby much the 
same as it has been for several years, 
viz: very straight and narrow, there- 
fore undergarments have to follow. If 
ntext Summer, the fashion for much 
longer and fuller skirts is adopted, then 
we shr 11 have to look forward to longer 
and wider chemises, with more tucks, 
and elaborate trimmings, knickers long- 
er too, and much wider, with flouncings, 
lace, etc., and we shall also have to 
think of petticoats which, for quits 
soma time, have been neglected. This 
Apartment is on the lookout already, 
for a good many petticoats can be seen 
in taffetas, silk, etc., with tiny pleated 
fl/uncings that thow the above tend- 

Combinations Favored 

As combinations are very much favor- 
ed, maybe they will remain in demand, 
provided the skirt is devised so as to 
suit the new needis. The materials still 
in favor for rich lingerie are silk and 
cambric, the latter being preferred for 
Summer wear. More and more do we 
adopt the knitted garments for Winter 
wear, either in wool or silk, also jer- 
sey. In fact, in the big dry goods 
stores here, you see almost nothing at 
this time of the year, unless for pres- 
ents, in which case the articles shown 
are heavily trimmed, to be effective, with 
lace and embroidery. By the way, 
some very nice presents can be made 
that way, either in real underclothing, 
for cl>se relatives, or embroidered 
blouses, doilies, cushions, etc., all in 
white cambric with real lace and hand 
work. In the way of trimmings, those 
that are most important are real lace, 
filet, Venetian lace, binche, Valen- 
cienmies, etc., openwork and! embroid- 
ery, not in big quantity, but of fine 
quality, tiny group of tucks now and 
again, but nothing very elaborate. The 
present lingerie is very neat, and often 
trimmed with plain net, which is strong, 
and very light. 

Chemises With Knickers to Match 

So far, we still have short chemises, 
generally empire shape, with nothing 
but a band of pointed filet lace, for 
instance, inserted on the cloth, and bor- 
dered by a band of material. The 
shoulder straps may be a very narrow 
filet entredeux, or a ribbon. The for- 

mer is more practical, but the latter is 

Of course, the knickers match it, 
and are closed. The night gown is de- 
vised on the same lines, and has short 
sleeves, also a ribbon threaded round 
the waist. Combinations are also sim- 
ilarly made, and may not change, unless 
big petticoats are needed next reason, 
which I don't thinik will happen, at 
least not just yet. It will take us 
several seasons to get again used to 
those sumptuous but most tiresome skirts 
— that is if we can change the mind of 
the younger generation, which is growing 
more and more independent in every 
way. Will our young ladies bend their 
heads to the ever ruling queen Fashion ? 
That is the question! In the present 
days of Bolshevism, one may doubt it!!! 

Pyjamas Kimono Shape 

I am much more inclined to believe 
in pyjamas, whose fashion is growing 
more and more: some can be had at 
very decent prices, and as there are no 
bounds to fancy in that line, the mcst 
extraordinary can be seen, both as re- 
gards printed materials and shapes. 
However, those adopted by people 
(ladies and gentlemen) who prefer com- 
fort to "propriety," (for here, pyjamas 
are, in many instances, considered 
shocking:), and yet mean to be decent 
all the same, they will take the striped 
ones with collar and revers of plain 
material. Zephyr cotton cloth for Sum- 
mer and cotton crepe or zenana for 
Winter are mostly demanded for the 

"Leap Into Beds" 

"Sautt de lits" are also part of lin- 
gerie, and very much like pyjamas, as 
far as materials are concerned. Since 
the kimono shape is very fashionable 
for that style of garments, we shall 
have them with Japanese designs or 
embroidered on Japanese silk, duly 
padded if for Winter, and zenana which 
is a kind ox silk metallasse very com- 
fortable in appearance. Light shades 
are always preferred, especially for 
young ladies. 

Another thing which is more and 
more fashionable is "Boudoir caps." In 
fact, nowadays, everybody has some; 
they may be made of rich material, em- 
broidered or trimmed with real lace, or 
be made of embroidered cambric, or 
more simply by a piece of spare net, 
gathered in bouill-nnes, and just edged 
with a bit of ordinary lace and a rib- 

Garters are also amongst the acces- 

sory! lingerie articles, and some fine 
ones there are too, all made of ribbon 
gathered on elastic, with a beautiful 
ribbon flower on the side. These found 
a ready sale when corsets were neg- 
lected. At present, however, the latter 
are being in demand again, with the 
new style of half fitting suits. So far, 
though, they are very little more than 
elastic belts, with a few bones, to under- 
line the shape of the body. They are 
very plain with no trimmings but a 
garland of rocooeco flowers at the top. 
Brassieres worn with them are made of 
str ng filet lace or embroidered strong 

Handkerchiefs are still . very fanci- 
ful, quite a number of them, being made 
of colored cambric, only one shade; 
khaki, vieux rose, deep blue, etc., or 
with wide stripes bordering the edge, 
crossways. To my liking, these do only 
for gentlemen, to wear in their coat 
pocket, but ladies who have adopted 
them to a certain extent, cannot enjoy 
such handkerchiefs as much as they 
did the dainty white cambric ones, with 
a neat hemstitch and pretty embroid- 
ered monogram or flower motifs, or the 
lace bordered handkerchief, which was 
really an ornament more than anything 
else. But this sounds old-fashioned to 
our youngster's ears. They are much 
too sporty to care for beautiful work, 
and our grandmothers derived many a 
happy day, first in choosing their trous- 
seaux, then in making their babies' 
"layettes," and their daughters' trous- 
seaux. The new generation is too much 
occupied with all kinds of sports to care 
for such things. As long as their clothes 
are practical, it makes no difference to 
them what they are made of. 

Let us hope the ancestral taste will 

revive in them, in time, so that the 

reputation of the Parisienne may not 

be lost. It is her most brilliant feature!! 

Yours very truly, 

Jeanne Gsell 


(Continued from page 134) 

outstanding at this convention, and 
which should be particulai-ly interesting 
to those of the Canadian trade who are 
interested in smart footwear. These 
were; the solid black, the solid white 
and the solid tan shoe were almost un- 
seen and that while nearly all the slip- 
pers had straps these were confined to 
the instep rather than the ankle as in 
ether seasons. 



Dry Goods Review 

Silk Gloves in Gauntlet Length 

Montreal Men Say They Will be in Strong Demand for Spring — 

Three Styles of Gauntlets — Trade Not Placing Much for Fall — 

Some New Fall Styles — Wool Gauntlets Will Imitate Leather 

A LEADING Montreal glove manu- 
facturer whose line includes every 
kind of staple and fancy gloves, 
states that the coming Spring and Sum- 
mer will witness the heaviest demand 
for silk gloves of all sorts that has ever 
been known. From the orders placed al- 
ready it is quite evident that styles in 
long lengths will be most fashionable 
and it seems probable that few one and 
two dome fastening silk gloves will be 
produced. All the usual neutral shades 
of browns and greys are being called for 
in gauntlets, mousquetaires and even 
full length styles. Washable chamois- 
ette gloves will also be in greater de- 
mand than ever for every day use, 
especially in the many charming new 
styles which feature cutwork or applique 
upon the cuffs in imitation of leather 
or leather effects. Cream on brown or 
pearl on grey are very smart combina- 

The fact that raw silk has already ad- 
vanced considerably in price has appar- 
ently influenced the retail trade opinion 
that there is no time like the present 
for buying. At any rate most retailers 
realize that there is danger in delaying 
to place orders for silk gloves and are 
acting accordingly. 

Three Styles of Gauntlets 

In strap wrist gauntlets there are 
three styles of particular interest. One 
of these has a strap, about one inch 
wide, carried all round the glove and 
this strap has a very narrow border of 
lighter color. Another gauntlet is ex- 
tra wide and long in the cuff section 
with a gore set in, while a third style 
has a turn back cuff of lighter kid. This 
glove can be worn either as a straight 
gauntlet or with cuff effect. The em- 
broidery on the back carries out the 
lighter color scheme. The gauntlet is the 
glove par excellence for the Spring 
sports costume while the longer length 
glove is favorably considered for dress 

According to an importer of French 
gloves there is no demand for the short 
glove whatever, and with the shortage 
of skins of certain kinds on the increase 
there wi'l not be any too many of the 
gauntlet style available a little later on. 
There is said to be an increasing demand 
for the new loose glove, or one which 
has a wide wrist permitting it to be 
pulled on without the use of a fastener, 
elastic or strap. This is equally smart in 
leathers for sport's wear or in kid for 
dress occasions. All white kid shows 
heavy trimmings of black in applique or 
else an all-black glove is similarly treat- 
ed in white. 

Montreal houses are chiefly concerned 

just now with Fa.l orders and travelers 
are now out with samples for the Fall 
and Winter of 1922. Retailers are very 
slow in placing, it was said, and it is 
feared that a very serious situation may 
arise if prompter action is not taken by 
the trade. As one prominent maker 
pointed out. the demand for fine gloves 
has now overtaken the supply and as the 
manufacture of gloves is an industry 
which necessitates plenty of time for the 
process, it is esential that orders be re- 
ceived early in the year if deliveries are 
expected on time or sufficient quanti- 
ties are to be available. If the trade de- 
lays in ordering, the manufacturers 
suffer a sales loss and it inevitably re- 
acts to the disadvantage of the retailer 
insofar as prices are concerned. This 
Winter there was a shortage of lined 
gloves and all wool gloves due to this 
reason, so that the advice so strongly 
urged by the makers is not uttered with- 
ru, laason. 

As regards the new styles for next 
Fall which are being offered the tirade 
by Montreal houses there is much that 
is interesting. Fur trimmed gloves will 
again be shown especially in a new sty.e 
with elastic wrist with a deep fur cuff of 
mole dyed coney on real mocha skin in 
such shades as grey, sable or slate. This 
style is lined thi - oughout with pure wool 
of a very soft and comfortable texture 
and the glove is so designed as to look 
extremely well without being in the 
least bulky or clumsy. 

Another new glove is a strap wrist 
gauntlet model shown in sable or slate 
mocha with fur forming a heavy cuff 
which is extended up one side for sever- 
al inches. 

Woo' Gauntlets Imitate Leathers 

There are at least two unusual new 
woollen gloves for next Winter, includ- 
ing a gauntlet of angora wool, trimmed 
with a fringe of the same up one side 
simulating the leather cut-work former- 
ly often seen on leather gloves of this 
type. Another smart heavy wool gaunt- 
let is rather longer than the usual type, 
being especially designed for ski-ing or 
other Winter sports. It is developed in a 
range of four patterns, or rather color 
combinations, the pattern in each case 
being a checker-board effect upon the 
cuff, done in inch squares in two or 
more tones, chiefly vivid colors on white. 

In addition to these Winter-weight 
models thei-e are being shown the usual 
range of leather gauntlet's with or with- 
out strap wrists and a very large variety 
of 2 dome short gloves in different staple 
colors. Embroidei-ed points are now much 
in vogue and will be a strong feature 
next Winter. 

For dress wear there is a particularly 
effective range of washable kid gloves 
in pale pastel shades in 2 dome length 
and also a new 1 pearl dome style of 
pique kid which features the new 
"premier" points down the cenjtre of the 
back stitching. These are also shown in 
different staple shades. 

Washable doeskin still continues to be 
in great demand especially in the two 
varieties which show black stitching in 
either fine or coarse effect upon the out- 
side. This particular range of Canadian 
made gloves are considered to be leaders 
in their field and it is now possible to 
sell washable doeskin gloves with ar. 
absolute guarantee of satisfaction. 

Another leading Montreal house is 
adopting the helpful plan of issuing a 
leaflet to any glove department which 
cares to have it, illustrating by pictures 
and by careful instructions the correct 
method of putting on and removing kid 
gloves. This leaflet is a brief summary 
of what every glove saleswoman should 
know and will be appreciated by every- 
one to whom the selling of gloves pre- 
sents the usual problems. 


C. M. Harrison, in a recent issue of 
Printer's Ink, writes an interesting ar- 
ticle on getting women to buy clothes 
that they need instead of ones which 
fashion decrees that they wear. The H. 
Black Company, of Cleveland, manufac- 
turers of women's garments, have act- 
ually begun a campaign along that line. 
They claim that women themselves have 
taken the first step in the direction of 
using common sense as their basis. Pre- 
ent-day standards are a hundred times 
more desirable from the standpoints of 
hygiene, appearance and good sense, than 
they were a decade ago. There are two 
reasons, he claims, for this change. They 
are, the growth of democracy and the 
increasing popularity of outdoor life. 
The independence of woman has devel- 
oped a desire for freedom in the choice 
of her clothes. 

Women as well as men now see that 
fashion is not a mysteriously gifted or- 
acle, but is strictly a commercial pro- 
position, designed to sell as many clothes 
as possible. The present newspaper 
campaign of the foregoing company, is 
a carefully planned effort, to sell the 
women of New York and Chicago and 
the vicinities of these great fashion cen- 
tres, on the idea of what they want. The 
intention is to crystallize the indepen- 
dent sentiment that has been rising. 
Many a woman may be entertaining 
these ideas without realizing that she 
is one of a great number. 

Dry Goods Hex iew 





6 St. Helen Street, Montreal, Que. 
502 Canada Bldg., Winnipeg, Man 



Dry Goods Review 



Our Salesmen 
Are Now Out 

Acme Glove Works Limited 

Fine Gloves 


Work Gloves 

& Mitts 

Work Shirts 
Fine Shirts 

New Goods 

Knit Goods 

New Prices 






3 Separate Books 

Fraser's General Dry Goods Directories 

Until 1916 Men's Wear and Women's Wear Directories were each published twice a 
year for the Spring and Fall seasons. To improve the service we then combined the 
Spring issues of each book, to form Textile Products Directory large page size. 





Pocket size 430 pages. 


Pocket size 300 pages. 


Large page size 350 pages. 


A combination of Women's Wear and Men's Wear. 

Advantages of these Directories 

These are the only specialized directories in Canada. If you 
need any information about any branch of the General Dry 
Goods trades in Canada, if you buy for or from them, if you 
sell them or for them, if you want an Agent or Agency, YOU 

The Subscription Price in Canada is $2.00 a year for the 3 
books. Sold separately:— 

Textile Products Directory, $2.00; Women's Wear or Men's Wear $1.00 each. Out- 
side of Canada, Textile Products $2.00 and Men's Wear and Women's Wear, $1.00 

An Approval copy of the 1922 Textile Products Directory (or 
1921 WOMEN'S WEAR or MEN'S WEAR Directories) will be 
sent on request. 

Advertising rates for WOMEN'S WEAR and MEN'S WEAR Directories $40.00 page, TEXTILE PRO- 
DUCTS Directory $75.00 page. These books reach every factory and wholesaler in Canada, and prac- 
tically every desirable retail buyer in all lines. Over 1,200 advertisers use advertisements below their 
particular list to command attention. 

Consult Our Free Information Bureau 

We also publish Wood Products Directory covering the furniture and lumber trades, $3.00 a copy; 
Metal Products Directory, covering the hardware, electrical goods, machinery, etc., $3.00 a copy; 
Leather Products Directory, covering the boots and shoes and allied lines, $2.00 a copy. SEND 

We can tell you about anything made or handled in Canada or abroad. We have on file in each 
office Directories, Trade Journals of all kinds, also Telephone Books. 


Head Office: 128 Bleurv Street, MONTREAL. Tel. Plateau 2038. 
Branch Office: 122 Wellington Street West, TORONTO. Tel. Adel. 1030. 

Vancouver Representative: 

F. E. Payson, 528 Winch Bldg. Tel. Sey. 3920. 

Winnipeg Representative: 

R. G. Stinson, 611 Boyd Bldg. Tel. A2907. 



Dry Goods Review 

Fitting Stout Women with Corsets 

Spring Provides Opportunity for Reorganization and Develop- 
ment of This Department — Terms to be Avoided in Fitting the 
Stout Woman with Corsets — Hints on Fitting Them — Comfort 
and Service Will Mean Steady Customers 

SPRING provides the corset depart- 
ment with a really invaluable op- 
portunity of reorganizing and devel- 
oping its methods. With the arrival of 
warmer weather and the consequent 
shedding of heavy garments, women 
become immediately conscious of their 
needs as regards corse-try which 'be- 
comes an annual, problem before the 
purchase of the Easter costume is de- 
cided upon. And among all others, 
there is none who requires more atten- 
tion and special study than the large 
woman, yet as everyone knows, when 
once the corsetiere has gained her con- 
fidence she also earns the undying grati- 
tude of this customer who becomes ever 
afterwards a most profitable and satis- 
factory client. 

The Stout Woman 

If you have not made a special study 
of stout women now is the time to im- 
prove the opportunity. Do not regard 
the fitting of the large woman in the 
light of "hard work" but rather frorn, 
the stand-point of the customer who 
comes to you in real need of your help. 
The stout woman cherishes the perfectly 
natural desire to become well propor- 
tioned and she is usually a little ner- 
vous in trying a new corset lest it mar 
her figure still more. The corsetiere 
who gains her confidence by satisfac- 
tory work in fitting, has won over not 
only this, customer, but all her stout 
friends who will become permanently 
linked with the department. Although 
the "average figure" trade is the most 
dependable part of the business done in 
the corset department, yet this type is 
apt to purchase here and there as the 
fancy prompts them, feeling certain that 
they can be fitted perfectly in one store 
as we.l as in another. The stout woman 
however has just begun to learn that 
she can wear stock corsets, the new 
models designed by experts who made a 
study of scientific corsetry. Thus she 
abandons gladly the idea that her cor- 
sets must be made to order since she is. 
able to obtain equally good service at 
short notice from a reliable corsetiere. 

So when the stout woman comes to 
you for ad.vise, snatch the opportunity 
to establish that feeling of confidence on 
her part, by the exercise of tact and 
sympathy and genuine interest. 

Scarcely anyone realizes that the fam- 
ous figure of the Venus de Milo is 
moulded on lines far from s'.ender, 
and yet, the popular opinion regarding 
her is that the Venus is divinely pro- 
portioned. It is bcause there is so 
much grace, dignity and perfect propor- 
tion in her figure that it is universally 
upheld as a criterion. Therefore there 
is no earthly reason why the plump wo- 

man should not have a figure of good 
proportion. If she has not, it is be- 
cause no corsetiere has taken her in 

Things to Avoid 

There are two significant points to 
bear in mind when the stout woman 
comes to you for help in corsetry pro- 
blems. The first is to avoid asking her 
waist measurement, and the second is 
to avoid the use of the words "stout"; 
"fat;" "big" or "fi.eshy," etc., in fitting 
her. All corsetieres will agree that the 
commonest fault to be laid at the door of 
the average customer is her invariable 
habit of demanding a corset a size or 
two too small, and therefore, it is per- 
fectly useless to ask the size. It is pre- 
ferable to secure her attention by tact- 
ful interest and slip the tape line about 
her waist in such a manner that she is 
impressed by your knowledge af the art 
of corsetry. 

How to Fit 

In fitting' the customer in a Spring 
corset, having due regard for the fact 
that she will not require as heavy a 
model for the warmer weather, it is es- 
sential to bear in mind one fact which 
applies universally to all types of large 
woman. See that the abdominal flesh 
is entirely supported by the corset, so 
that not even a fraction of an inch es- 
capes below the front boning. While the 
front stays must be long, they must 
not be so long that they press into tho 
flesh when the wearer is seated. There 
should be ample room in the corset for 
the uplifted flesh. 

Another important point is the even 
distribution of the flesh under the cor- 
set. Such superfluous flesh cannot be 
eliminated but it can be disguised if 
the corset holds it evenly from the bot- 
tom edge to the top of the bust section. 
Should the abdomen be abnormally de- 
veloped the corset that is provided with 

a special supporting attachment is de- 
sirable, providing it is not to hard to 
adjust. The new models which show an 
elastic section underneath the front are 
especially good in this connection as 
they do away with the necessity of 
wearing a separate bandage. 

There are many large women who are 
merely stout round the thighs but are 
quite thin above the waist. This is 
particularly true of women engaged in 
sedentary occupations who lack the op- 
portunity to exercise much and have 
grown fleshy and heavy in consequence. 
Here there is difficulty in fitting because 
the corset tends to slip up constantly. 
Several manufacturers are now showing 
new models which care for this very de- 
fect, and these are extra long and shap- 
ed to fit the thigh, with an extension at 
the lower back edge which can be sat 
on and thus prevents any "riding up." 

Comfort and Service 

The one idea to be borne in mind by 
the successful saleswoman is that every 
corset sold should provide its wearer 
with the maximum of comfort and long- 
est possible service. The reason why so 
many women do not return season after 
season to the same corset department is 
because they have not had that feeling 
of perfect satisfaction and pleasure in 
having obtained just the right thing. 
The corsetiere who understands her cus- 
tomers and is willing to devote just as 
much time as they want to their indi- 
vidual needs, will not need to rely upon 
a card catalogue system to remind them 
that it is time to consider the purchase 
cif a new corset. When Spring or Fall 
returns the satisfied customer goes back 
of her own accord and places herself un- 
reservedly in the hands of the expert. 
She likes to see and try the newest mo- 
dels, of course, and nothing is more 
fatal than to persuade her to keep on 
wearing the same model another sea- 
son. Even though it may have been 
modified by the makers to conform to 
the new silhouette, yet she is not al- 
ways convinced that there is nothing 
else which will do as well. Of course 
there are many women who cannot be 
pried loose from old fashioned models 
without exceptional difficulty, but it is 
always safe to emphasize the decline in 
prices and the great improvements in 
design and style which have occurred 
of late, and the conservative woman will 
nearly always allow herself to be fitted 
into something more modern, even 
though only on trial. By slipping her 
dress or blouse over the fitted corset 
and demonstrating how much better her 
lines are thus, such a customer is gen- 
erally convinced. 

Dry Goods Review 



Numerous Imported Lines for Spring 

Will Be More Shown Than For Some Time — No Tendency 

Toward Elaboration According to Montreal Houses — Some Of 

The Newest French Imports — Some of the Newer Shades In 

French Lingerie Described 

UNDERGARMENTS for 1922 will 
not show any tendency towards 
elaboration, but there will be a far 
greater amount ef imported lines avail- 
able than has been the case in the past. 
And to those buyers who desire to feat- 
ure the more delicate and intricate speci- 
mens of hand-made lingerie in their 
Spring disp'ays,, Chere will be much of 
interest in the exhibitions of such goods 
now being shown in Montreal. Accord- 
ing to exports in under-apiparel, the vari- 
ous models now on display at the Ecoles 
Des Hautes Etudes in Montreal, which 
have been sent out by several reading 
Parisian manufacturers are among the 
most charming and original in their re- 
spective classes of any such lines yet seen 
in this city. Apart from the exquisite 
workmanship and unusual designs of 
the different garments, there is a dis- 
tinct "ch ; c" and an indefinable atmos- 
sphere about them, which identifies them 
as being Parisian and therefore correct. 
Although most of the dainty undergar- 
ments are shown in sets of three pieces, 
it is not necessary to buy them in this 
way. But so unusual are the designs of 
each garment and so diferent are the 
trimmings that few buyers can resist 
the temptation of featuring a complete 
display in each case. 

The undergarments are of silken fa- 
brics and cottons, including crepe de 
chines and fine nets and sheerest batiste, 
handkerchief linens and nainsook. The 
predominating note is simplicity of line 
but close inspection reveals the fact that 
the elaboration is marvelously done, so 
that the perfection of the embroidery is 
almost unnoticeable. 

Bias Folds Add Color Contrast 

The favorite garment evidently is the 
straight chemise which is shown in a 
multitude of designs mostly with the 
straight top finished with narrow 
shoulder straps either of ribbon or self 
fabric. A particularly charming finish 
is a narrow fold of pasteMinted fabric 
used to edge the top and straps of a 
white garment. Chemises and camisoles 
of flesh crepe de chine are charming 
when edged with mauve or blue, while 
there are many all white garments which 
show the edging in either of these colors. 
Lace is not often used, but in the more 
elaborate sets where it is employed the 
preferred varieties are valenciennes, 
point de Paris and Binche lace. By far 
and away the most beautiful finish is 
the edge or insert of fine Bretonne net 
upon which a buttonholed or appliqued 
edge is applied worked on the garment 
itself. Exquisitely dainty are the straight 
and simple hems of the undergarments 
thus finished, and besides the unusual- 

ly sheer effect of the net, the handwork 
variously carried out, has an appear- 
ance of altogether unusual charm. One 
can imagine in examining the infinitesi- 
mal stitches which have gone into these 
models, that they were done by the 
nimble fingers of French women and 
girls who have made the art of needle- 
work something finer and more beauti- 
ful than could be expressed anywhere 
else. France has certainly excelled in 
the matter of exquisite lingerie for near- 
ly three centuries and it is no wonder 
that her needlewomen inherit gifts in 
this direction which seem impossible to 
duplicate in other countries. 

The new vest and drawer sets are ex- 
ceptionally effective, featuring a wide 
diversity of edge finishes in novel de- 
signs. There is much fine featherstitch - 
ing, novel fagoting effects, French knots 
and the new "worm" stitch. But the 
tailored style is pre-eminent. 

The various French exhibitors make a 
specialty of lovely underslips for wearing 
underneath sheer frocks. One especial- 
ly striking model is of accordeon pleated 
crepe de chine with bouffant tunic effect 
of fine net also pleated the edges of 
which were picoted. Another all white 
one had an extra hem fagoted on, and 
its shoulder straps were composed of 
hand-made rosebuds upon ribbon. Much 
flesh crepe de chine was used for these 
slips, decorated by drawn work in the 
usual effects. 

For Miladi's Kours of Ease 

Negligees also almost defy description 
on account of their individuality and 
exquisite workmanship. One model of 
baby blue crepe de chine was designed 
on straight simple lines with a hand- 
made lattice-work banding as its sole 
ornament together with a girdle of 
braided self fabric. Its wide flowing 
sleeves were particularly graceful. To be 
worn with these models were shown 
numberless adorable little boudouir caps 
of various laces, nets, and quillines, made 
up with handmade flowers and little 
flutings of ribbon. Caps with wired brims 
and wings were especially dainty and 

A magnificent pyiama lounging cos- 
tume was shown developed in black satin 
for the trousers, which were drawn in 
at the ankle with elastic, while the slip- 
over mandarin coat was of maize color- 
ed silk, daintly beaded and embroidered 
in black. 
Frencn Lingerie Features New Shapes 

All these colorful models come in time 
to supply a long felt want in Canada, 
where manufacturers are reluctant to 
make up much lingerie in colors such as 
are prominently featured in the United 

States, since they fear that the demand 
will be only ephemeral and localized. It 
is impossible they say to purchase the 
right materials in such shades as the 
new orchid, jade and sunburst tones. The 
reasons given are that in the United 
States the large field of consumers who 
are willing to spend money on these 
novelties warrant the risk, but here in 
Canada, the making of pastel tinted un- 
derwear is a precarious venture. Cana- 
dian makers of course are turning out 
large quantities of flesh colored "undies" 
because they see that this shade has be- 
come a staple. The consumer who com- 
plains that she cannot purchase origin- 
al or novel creations here, will therefore 
find in the new French models the very 
thing she has been seeking so long. 

Princess Mary Sponsors Blue 

Rumour has it that blue it to take a 
sudden leap ahead in the matter of pop- 
ularity for lingerie, due perhaps to the 
fact that Princess Mary has ordered blue 
to be used in the decoration of her 
trousseau pieces. Now that blue dyes 
are more durable and washable, there 
is no doubt that it will find a certain 
amount of favor. Princess Mary has 
ordered all her lingerie in the finest of 
Irish linen, to be trimmed with Irish 
point lace featuring the shamrock mot- 
if. Nightgowns will be short of sleeve 
and will be ribboned in pale blue, which 
is her favorite color, and some sets will 
show appliqued coin dots in blue linen 
while others will be simply lace trimmed. 
There will be six pieces of each article 
in her trousseau, each of which will be 
made up on the very simplest designs. 

A Practical Novelty 

A very clever idea recently introduced 
in England and which may possibly be 
seen over here shortly is the "unmade" 
lingerie. This means that sets of three 
pieces, including gown, chemise and 
knickers are sold with the seams unsewn, 
so that they can be adjusted to the ac- 
tual figure, only the embroidery being 
completed. This is generally a simple 
scalloped edge with a tiny motif in the 
centre, and the fabric is most often a 
fine cotton crepe. This is duplicated in the 
idea already so well known over here, 
of the embroidery outfits offered by 
fancy work departments which however 
reverse the plan and offer stamped gar- 
ments already mad'3 up. 

Early reports from Montreal makers 
state that the bloomer craze has been 
growing steadily all month, and the new 
models in Jap silks or crepe de chine are 
sold right out. The satin varieties, on 
account of their greater cost, are not 
selling so quickly on the average. 



Dry Goods Review 

Demand for Pyjamas Steadily Growing 

Toronto and Western Coast Lead in Demand — Black Will Be 

Strong This Season — Vogue for Undergarments in Sets is Strong 

— Lingerie Manufacturers Are Encouraged by Response of the 

Trade to Their New Garments 

RETAILERS say that women are 
asking for pyjamas more than they 
ever did before on this side of the 
border. In Toronto and on the western 
coast, particularly in Vancouver, there 
is a big demand for them. Manufac- 
turers are devoting their energies al- 
most entirely to the two-piece outfits in 
the silk pyjamas. One merchant believes 
that there is a big field for two-piece 
pyjamas in the cotton and other inex- 
pensive materials. Many women who 
cannot afford to buy them in silk, would 
wear pyjamas instead of nightdresses, if 
they could buy them in any but the single 
garment, which is rarely comfortable. 
Black Almost Certain This Season 
A Toronto manufacturer informed 
Dry Goods Review, that he thinks Can- 
adian women will favor black much more 
than they didi last Fall. New York had a 
great run in the dark colors last Fall but 
women on this side preferred the pinks 
and yellows. One maker says that he 
sold only nine black nightdresses from 
coast to coast last Fall but that he ex- 
pects great things of black this Spring 
in almost all the lingerie lines. Some of 
the black garments now ready for the 
trade are: camisoles, bloomers, step-ins, 
knickers, chemises, pyjamas and night- 
dresses. A few have relieving touches in 
bright-colored ribbons and laces but the 
majority are shown in sombre all-black. 
Importers say that Paris has completely 
succumbed to black in lingerie and that 
New York is featuring it in its January 

Bui't-up Shoulders on Camisoles 

Manufacturers of lingerie have found 
that the trade welcome the return to the 
built-up shoulder in garments. The strap 
at best is not as comfortable or as dur- 
able while the surplice effect made of the 
goods and narrowing to a point at the 
shoulder is very neat without being any 
more in evidence. These are now made in 
nightdresses and chemises as well. 

There is a great tendency among mak- 
ers of fine lingerie, to follow the lead 
of New York in making garments in 
sets. It is now possible to obtain a set 
consisting of the following three out- 
fits: 1. nightdress or pvjamas, 2. cami- 
sole and knickers or chemise and bloom- 
ers, and 3. step-ins. These should prove 
very acceptable to the trade for Easter 
gifts and for June bride sets. 

No one type of garment seems to take 
prefei'ence. There are tailor-mades with 
only neat hemstitching being featured 
by some makers while others are holding 
to the val. lace and hand-embroidery. 
French and Phillipine lingerie is as good 
as ever in the cotton underwear and do- 
mestic muslins are certain to have the 

The R. and J. CHILD'S WAIST, 

shoivn by courtesy of the Parisian 

Corset Company of Quebec. 

The accompanying diagram il- 
lustrates a new style of child's 
waist which has several practical 
features, chief of which is the fact 
that it has adjustable garters at- 
tached, doing away with the nec- 
essity of safety pins and with a 
consequent saving of expense to 
mothers who are not obliged to 
purchase garters and attach than. 
The garters attached to this ivaist 
are uniform and can be extended 
to any length required, so that if 
the child's hose to-day should hap- 
pen to be a little shorter than 
those worn yesterday, the garter 
is instantly adjusted to fit. An 
additional point is the fact that 
underneath the garter is a protect- 
ing pad of material which prev- 
ents any metal touching the flesh, 
and further, the shoulder straps 
are designed in such a manner as 
to take all the strain from the 
garters on the shoulders, as it 
should be, allowing far perfect 
erection of the body. This wais* 
can be retailed for 70 cents com- 
plete, jvhich means that it is more 
economical in the end than buying 
waist and garters separately. 

vogue prophesied for them last Spring. 

As to the fabric used, crepe de chine 
and satin are both good. There is prob- 
ably not as much georgette shown as in 
other years except in camisole trim- 
mings. Radium is coming to the fore very 

One manufacturer has devised a splen- 
did scheme in the camisoles he has made 
this Srring. The trade have always com- 
plained about the width of these at the 
top unless an elastic is run through. An 
elastic all round pulls the garment out 
of shape, often causing the pattern in 
the front to be hidden, so he has placed 

the elastic only under the arms where 
the camisole is very loose. It holds its 
shape well this way. 

The first one-piece slips for wear 
under sheer overdresses, were for the 
most part, of the dark shades for use 
with black and brown tunics. These 
have had an excellent beginning for a 
new garment and manufacturers are 
now encouraged to make them up in 
brighter shades to be worn with the or- 
gandy dresses next Summer. One man- 
ufacturer is turning out these costume 
slips on a new style, it hangs from the 
shoulder, a great improvement on the 
one which shows a waist-line through 
the loose-fitting tunic or overdress of 

Negligees, for the most part shew the 
long-waisted silhouette. Irish or filet 
lace is used on the more expensive 
models while val. is seen on those design- 
ed for the January and February sales. 
Pin tucks are seen a great deal and there 
is a great prevalence for drawn-work, 
which is both machine and hand done. 
Canadian Manufacturers Pleased 

Those who are interested in the pro- 
gress of the fancy lingerie lines in Tor- 
onto, say that they are very much en- 
couraged with the treatment they are 
receiving from the trade. Retailers in 
this country now believe that they can 
turn out garments which are the equals 
of those made anywhere else. Lingerie 
manufacturers are very wide-awake as 
a rule. They send their designers down 
to New York every five or six weeks and 
the result is that they are not very far 
behind in the styles shown on the other 
side. Even the largest retailers in this 
country are becoming more and more 
satisfied with the goods shown by travel- 
ers for our Canadian manufacturers. 

That a style revue need not be just the 
usual fashion parade has been successfully 
proved by the Lasalle & Koch Co., Toledo, 
Ohio, in the semi-annual children's style 
revues which it has presented during the 
last few years. Last Spring, when the 
affair came very soon after President Hard- 
ing's inauguration, a miniature White House 
was used on the stage as a background, and 
the authentic Harding Blue was introduced 
in youthful attire by the Harding Blue 

For the Fall revue last year, the idea of art 
in children's dress was taken as a theme and 
a perfect replica of the Art Museum, Toledo's 
most beloved and representative building, 
complete even to its pillars, its broad marble 
steps and the hospitable lighting of its corn- 
ice, greeted the audience of 3,000 or more 
which gathered in Lasalle & Koch's Audit- 
orium Saturday afternoon, Nov. 19, to see 
the much-heralded revue. 

Dry Goods Review 



Women Still Wear Ill-Fitting Corsets 

Manufacturers Say Harm Done To Trade When Proper Fit 

Not Given to Customer — Increasing Orders For White — Cor- 

selette Gaining Favor in Canada — Spring Designs Give Slim 

Long Line Effect — Bloomer Business Still Good. 

WHERE are the dollar corsets 
gone? One can go to almost any 
store in this country today and 
see very few counters carrying the cheap 
corsets of a few years ago. Manufac- 
turers say that even in the very worst 
months last Fall, orders for low-priced 
corsets were exceptional. One traveler 
explains that Canadian women have 
learned the value of comfort. They 
know that badly-cut and badly-boned 
corsets are not comfortable. The luxur- 
ies to which they accustomed them- 
selves during the war, extended to the 
wearing of good corsets, and now, 
though money is tighter than it was for 
several years prior to 1914, they will not 
buy poor ones. Of course there has been 
considerable reduction made in price 
since January last year but there is no 
corset turned out which compares with 
the inexpensive ones of the past. A trav- 
eler for a large corset manufactui*er in 
Toronto says that, where eight years ago 
he sold 100 dozen at four dollars and 
a half, he now gets orders for fifty 
dozen at eighteen dollars a dozen. His 
firm try to make as little as possible of 
the type of corset which goes to the re- 
tailer for price under twelve dollars a 

Women Still Wearing Badly Fitted 

The manager of a Toronto manufac- 
turing house, says that it is sometimes 
discouraging to corset-makers to see 
the numbers of corsets still being sold 
in this country without being fitted or 
with an incorrect fitting. Nine out of 
ten pair returned to the maker, he de- 
clares were the wrong size or the wrong 
type of corset for the women to whom 
they were sold. There are not many im- 
perfect corsets being made today. It 
does not pay. Yet, try as they will, manu- 
facturers are encountered on all sides 
with merchants who do not place enough 
stress on fitting. For one thing, he says, 
all saleswomen should know that there 
should not be a greater space than an 
inch and a half for the lace in a back- 
laced corset. This can be made a little 
narrower or a little wider at top or 
bottom but a corset which is drawn in 
at both top and bottom, will always 
strain the bones at the centre. More- 
over he believes that there is still a 
great tendency to sell a size or two too 

White Coming Back 

Orders for the last few weeks point to 
a return to white, in corsets. Pink is still 
very strong in the fancy lines but there 
seems to be a tendency to ask for the 

heavy white coutil just now. Women 
who want white, do not like brocades or 
stripes. In fact the only white fancy 
corsets that are made, are for brides. 
This applies particularly to Quebec. In 
Ontario and the West brides still like 
pink. There is, moreover, a stronger lik- 
ing for silk stripes than for brocades, 
although one manufacturer believes that 
the brocades will outlast the stripes in 
the long run. 

Corselette Gaining Favor in Canada 

The corselette was invented as an an- 
tidote to the "corsetless" figure craze 
which gained such a foothold in the 
United States last year. Women who 
could dispense with the corset, felt that 
they needed a fitted undergarment of 
some kind. 

A garment was devised which had a 
fitted bandeau body, a panel front and 
hose suporters. This was accepted to an 
amazing extent not only in the United 
States but in this country as well, for 
while Canadian women did not adopt the 
fad for going without corsets, they were 
glad to find something to take their plac? 
during the summer months. The corsel- 
ette and the girdle are also responsible 
for bringing back the desire for cor- 
sets by women who have discarded them. 
These garments are not as expensive 
as corsets — a very good line can be ob- 
tained this spring for' $15 a dozen. Man- 
ufacturers declare that the retail trade 
seems ready to accept them for late 
Spring and Summer business. 

Three Types of Corsets Shown 

There is one note in common in the 
lines offered for Spring — they are all de- 
signed to give the slim long line. The 
elastic topped corset, which is unusual- 
ly popular among buyers, is shown in 
plain wash satin and in brocades. It 
comes in medium and long skirt models, 
reaches slightly above the waist-line and 
is lightly boned. It is therefore not par- 
ticularly suited to the stout woman. The 
one designed particularly for the heavy 
figure, slopes from a low bust to a high 
back. In this type there seems to be a 
preference for the back-laced corset al- 
though some stout women still prefer 
the front-laced model. For very slight 
figures, there is a corset which has only 
one flexible bone in front. 

Bloomers Still Good 

Toronto manufacturers are still con- 
fident of the possibilities of the bloomer 
business. They are making thsm even 
more extensive y than they did last Fall. 
The brightest of shades are b^ing shown 
to the trade to encourage Spring busi- 

ness. Some of the colors are: nile green, 
olive green, spring beauty, pumpkin and 
gold. There is as well, a call for the sand 
and taupe shades. 

While many of the underwear lines 
have become just Christmas and Easter 
sellers, because so many women like to 
make their silk garments for personal 
use, bloomers are now considered an all- 
year round staple. It is no doubt because 
women find that these are not as easy 
to make. Almost all the manufacturers 
are showing styles which have a gusset 
right down to the knee. 

There is an increasing demand for 
loose-fitting bloomers. In fact the largest 
sizes are now bought by very small 
women. This is because they feel that 
some fulness needed to take the place of 
the discarded underskirt. The garment 
which comes just above the knee has 
given place in most of the Spring bloom- 
ers to the one which extends for an inch 
or two below. 

One manufacturer believes that the 
bloomer trade may not last longer than 
April or May this year, because many 
women complain they are warm for 
Summer wear and there is therefore a 
general attempt to promote the loose 
knickers on the part of wide-awake de- 
signers. In the meantime, there is a big 
field for the bloomer not only in plain 
jersey, silk and jap jersey but in wash- 
satins and in sateen. 


"The greatest mistake m advertising 
is boosting the goods above their value. 
An advertisement is simply an invita- 
tion to the public to inspect the goods 
for sale, and if they are found to be 
wanting the advertisement is wasted. 
The merchant who misplaces his adver- 
tising is a fool," said C. H. Mackintosh, 
president of Associated Advertising 
Clubs of the World. "There is nothing- 
more detrimental to any business than 
to overrate ts wares. It is absurd to 
advertise forty-dollar va'ues at fifteen 
dollars. No sane person would believe 
it, and it is dishonest, as are always 
comparative prices. The public is quite 
satisfied to receive a full round dollar's 
value for a dollar. - 

"Advertisers must tell the truth, or 
the money expended is wasted. It is the 
more stupid for a merchant to misplace 
his advertising - for he must remain on 
the spot, whereas the crook who places 
his fraudulent stocks, by advertising- 
can make his 'e'ean-up' and get away 
from the place." 

146 CORSETS AND LINGERIE Dry Goods Review 

Front Lace Models That We 
Like To Recommend 



We have numerous styles in front lace as well as back lace corsets, 
but there are always certain models that meet with the greatest 
response. The four styles listed below are such. These are all 
rubber top corsets, but others equally satisfactory in standard 
designs, or semi-rubber, are carried in prices from $21.00 per 
dozen as high as $48.00. 

If you are looking for moderate priced front lace corsets of guar- 
anteed quality, we recommend a trial order on any of the follow- 
ing styles. 

Style 36 — Pink Coutil, Fancy Style 909 — Pink Brocade, Fancy 

rubber top. For slender figures. rubber top. For average figures. 

Sizes 20-28, Price $21 per doz. Sizes 20-30. Price $30 per doz. 

Style 549 — Pink Coutil, Fancy Style 547 — Pink Coutil. Surgi- 

rubber top. Exclusive Warner cal Elastic top. Special Warner 

feature "Extension back." Aver- features of "Anchor" and "Dia- 

age figures. Sizes 22-32. Price mond" elastic gores in skirt. 

$30 per doz. Sizes 22-30. Price $36 per doz. 

F. O. B. Montreal. 3% 10 days, 2Y 2 % 30 days. Net 60 days 



The Warner Brothers Company 

356 St. Antoine St. Montreal, P. O- 


Dry Goods Review 



The "Julian Sale" Travellers 

Are Away With A Great Line 


Beautiful effects in 
satin stripes, 
mounted on nar- 
row gilt and silver- 
finished frames. 
Black, brown, 
blue and taupe — 
tassels are passe. 


In Pin Seal, Beav- 
er Calf and Mor- 
occo leathers. 
Small pouchy ef- 
fects. Mounted on 
narrow gilt and 
silver - finished 
frames. Colors 
well assorted. 

Monte Carlo 

The newest novel- 
ty in bags. A 
special feature of 
the "Julian Sale" 
line— made in octo- 
pus, alligator and 
spider web leath- 

New Samples in 



And other lines of Leather 
Goods and Novelties 

Our travellers will wait on you in 
due course — they have never 
started away on a trip with a 
more attractive collection of 
samples than their trunks contain 
to-day. Bigger assortments, 
greater variety, finer quality, 
more novelties, better values, all 
manufactured under ideal condi- 
tions in our own great sun-lighted 

Prompt and painstaking service 
is the watchword. Order through 
the "Julian Sale" traveller, or 
phone, wire or write. 



in the 

line, made 
with high- 
satins — 
and colors. 


Still the very popu- 
lar bag. Made in 
the new octopus, 
frog and Monte 
Carlo grain leath- 
ers. Blue, brown, 
grey, black. 


Meeting the call 
for more popular 
price lines. 
Double handles, 
swagger styles. 
Fancy leathers, 
novelty shapes — 
good color range. 

The Julian Sale Leather Goods Company 

600 King Street West, Toronto 



Dry Goods Pur lew 

Canadian Manufacturers Making Distinct 

Progress in Ivory Ware and Toys 

Travellers Starting Out With Excellent Ranges This Month 
Including Some Worth- While Novelties in Ivory Goods — A New 
Comb on the Market — Plea For Open Mind on Part of Canadian 
Merchant With Regard to Canadian-Made Toys — Progress 


THE manufac- 
turers of ivory 
goods in Tor- 
onto are sending 
out their travellers 
this month with a 
splendid new range 
of goods. They say o<*>°»oo, 
that this line is no <0 ^ o 
longer a Christmas 
specialty. The re- 
tail trade ar.e anx- 
ious to promote 

sales all the year because toilet arti- 
cles of ivory can so easily be worked 
into a chain of sales. A few years ago 
only jewellers and the largest depart- 
ment stores carried the more expensive 
ivory goods but now^a-days most gen- 
eral stores, druggists and fancy goods 
shops have them. Of course, the de- 
cline in the demand for silver and ebony 
was a big factor in promoting ivory. 
Canadian manufacturers have made every 
effort to have their goods known as 
first-class. In fact several factories have 
stopped making the cheaper grades and 
are allowing American firms to special- 
ize in them. Wholesale houses in this 
country are very glad to allow the 
name of the maker on the ivory they 
handle, instead of their own stamp as 
they used to insist upon. They try to 
obtain their stock from manufacturers 
who make every line, so that they can 
supply their customers with the same 
brand from year to year. 
Canadian Workmen do Excellent Work 
The manager of a factory which now 
makes more than three hundred articles 
of ivory, declares that one of the 
achievements of which he is most proud 
is that he has developed his factory al- 
together from the work of Canadians. 
He declares that the Canadian artisan 
is the peer of any in the world for ar- 
tistic taste. The most intricate things 
can be accomplished by our men, pieces 
which rival those of the French, who 
were the first to bring ivory toilet ar- 
ticles into this country. 

Work of this nature is very difficult 
to handle. It requires a great deal of 
experiment and patience. The machinery 
required is original and the initial in- 
vestment very large. The fact that all 
the factories which are making ivory in 
this country have been very successful, 
is saying something for Canadian in- 
genuity and industry. 

Severa' New Lines This Spring 
Travellers are carrying with them this 
month a new ivory comb which is sup- 

erior to anything yet offered. It is 
very flexible as well as strong and is of 
three types: the all-coarse, the all-fine 
and one which is coarse and fine. Some 
very artistic picture frames are among 
the new lines. Salesmen are going out 
with a determined effort to impress on 
the trade the selling points of ivory 
under the headings, "dignified, sanitary 
and indestructible." They are also 
specializing in the DuBarry or the De 
Fleury pattern, which is panelled. It is 
made up in nearly all the articles nec- 
essary for toilet or travelling. 

One manufacturer pointed out to Dry 
Goods Review, that if retail salesmen 
would give the following argument to 
customers who still think that good 
ivory or French ivory is actually the 
elephant's tusk, they would carry a 
great deal of conviction; the elephant's 
tusk, if made into toilet articles, would 
curl back into its original shape after a 
few weeks' use, it would turn yellow and 
split into streaks as a billiard ball does. 

The same informant says that people 
want Canadian materials as never be- 
fore. How long this desire on the part 
of the public will last, he does not know 
but he believes that manufacturers, 
wholesalers and retailers have for the 
year 1922 an opportunity to talk the 
products of their country as they never 
had before, and probably never will 

Will Tortoise-Shell Sell This Year? 

Toilet goods of tortoise were a big 
feature in some cities of the United 
States this year. Canadian women did 
not fancy them though several manu- 
facturers prepared for some business 
of this kind. Two makers in Toronto 
say that next Christmas will see a big 
rush on tortoise-shell. Very little ad- 
ditional expense is required in the man- 
ufacture of it, because practically the 
same process is required as in ivory. 
Celluloid is the base, which is worked 
with cotton into a chemical composition. 
This becomes a tissue-paper-like sub- 

stance which is 
treated with alco- 
hol and camphor. 
The original ingre- 
dients are colored 
in making tortoise 
instead of white as. 
in the manufacture 
of ivory. 

Is the Trade Giving 

Candian Toys a 

Fair Chance? 

Visits to manufacturers of toys in this 
country result in various expressions of 
opinion as to the attitude of the trade 
toward their goods. Some houses de- 
clare that the retail and wholesale trade 
are anxious to sell their lines, others 
say that the fact that toys are Canadian- 
made places them at a disadvantage. 
Some merchants think that all foreign 
toys, whether they come from the 
United States, Germany, England ov 
Japan are of a better grade than 
our own. One Toronto man declares 
that this has had the best possible 
effect on manufacturers. They have 
struggled during the last two years as 
they never would have under less trying 
conditions. He says that if the retail 
merchant will only take an open at- 
titude as to the respective values of toys 
made in every country, the Canadian 
maker will soon prove that those of this 
country are as good and even better in 
some of the lines now specialized on. 

One manufacturer believes that the 
day is far distant when Canadians can 
turn out mechanical toys which will 
rival those of other countries. Most 
countries which are now making them, 
depend only on home consumption for 
their products and are satisfied if those 
which they export, obtain a price which 
will cover the overhead. American 
manufacturers, for example, have 110 
million people to sell to at a profit and 
are satisfied, for a few years to come, 
with the publicity which is obtained by 
exporting them to Canada. In this 
country, our manufacturers would have 
only 8 million to draw profit from and, 
provided they could get into the export 
market, the toys sent out of here would 
only sell at actual cost when laid down. 
Why does this not work out in every 
line of toy or in fact in all Canadian 
products? asked Dry Goods Review. 
Our informant, who has attempted me- 
chanical toys and given them up, says 
that the initial cost in the manufacture 
of this line, because of the dies needed. 
(Continued on page 154) 

Dry Goods Review 




Cords Ornaments 

Girdles Tassels 

Fringes and Yard Trimmings 


We have anticipated the demand 
£or Trimmings in all the newest 
and most popular colors for the 
coming season. 

The quality of our goods cannot 
be equalled and the prices are fair. 
You cannot make a mistake by hav- 
ing a quantity of "Moulton" Trim- 

The demand is sure to be great, 
so order now ! 


4 Inspector St., Montreal 

ONTARIO and QUEBEC: K. S Adcoek and A. W. Wcod- 

house. Head Office, Montreal; J. Rutherford, 23 Scott St., 


WESTERN PROVINCES: Cleat & Co.-Robt Cleat. 410 

Crown Bldgr.. Vancouver; A. E. Partridge, 708 Builders' 

Exchange, Winnipeg. 



"In 1921 I was so busy talking to our friends 
about the way we manufacture WRIGHT'S 
Bias Tape that I had no time to speak of a 
subject very interesting to us all — the marked 
increase in home-sewing during the last two 
or three years. 

"The reason why it is worth our while to make 
WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes just as well as we 
know how is that home-sewing is a growing 

"This fact is of great importance throughout 
the dry goods trade. If women really are 
going to sew more and more and better and 
better from year to year, it means enlarged 
departments for piece goods, larger sales for 
paper patterns, trimmings, notions and every- 
thing that goes into a garment. To us it 
means that women will want tapes in a great 
variety of widths, fabrics and colors and that 
they will want them in greater volume than at 
any previous time. 

"In 1921 the movement took us by surprise. 
Women used six times the normal volume of 
WRIGHT'S Bias Fold Tape. This kept us 
jumping and kept some of our friends writ- 
ing letters about deliveries. 

"Happily we've caught up with this big de- 
mand and can look 1922 in the face with a 
clear conscience." 

Send for Color Card of 


Showing our full line of fast colored percales, also Wright's E-Z- 
Trim. You will find this card to be a great convenience in making 
up your orders. It shows our 12 plain and 6 striped colors of Tape 
and fi colors of E-Z-Trim. 

Some'.hing new and useful for the Notion Department. Sample card 
showing colors sent on request. 

Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., Mfrs. 

315-317 Church Street 
New York 


R. C. Taft 
223 W. Jackson B'.vd. 


L. F. Sherman 

613 N. Broadway 


Jas. F. McCarriar 

1011 Chestnut Street 



It turns itself 


In U. S. Pat. Off. 



Dry Goods Review 

Demand for New British Crochet Hook 

Will Enable Woman to Turn Out Uniform Edging— New Dress 
Fastener Being Shown— Button Prices 40 Per Cent Lower Than 
inl920— Possibilities of Notion Department in 1922— Should be 

Kept Well Forward 

\ CCORDING to a representative 
f~\ of a leading Montreal wholesale 
k firm, there is a heavy demand for 

British-made crochet hooks, especially 
the new style which will enable the 
woman who crochets to turn out edging 
that is uniform throughout the entire 
length. The fault of ordinary hooks 
has been due to the fact that it was 
impossible to draw the little loop up 
tight enough on a straight handle, and 
with this new improved hook, it is now 
possible to achieve an even, firm chain 
without any need of tiring the hand by 
extra pressure at each stitch. These 
new hooks which are commonly known 
as Roma hooks, are selling rapidly and 
cost no more than other kinds. Buy- 
ers of these goods should be on their 
guard in ordering against falling into 
the error of stocking the same sizes in 
both American and British made hooks. 
British manufacturers always number 
their goods from to 8, while American 
makers feature sizes ranging from 1 
to 16. 

Many people are unaware of the fact 
that the finest steel needles cost a high 
price because of the fact that it re- 
quires skilled labor to put the eyes in 
accurately and this class of labor in 
England is very highly paid. It is not 
so much the price of steel that counts 
in fixing the price of $1 per thousand 
which is quoted today, but rather the 
intricate process essential to the ex- 
act placing of the eye at the end of the 
tiny bit of steel, a process which is 
done by hand and is therefore slow in 
comparison with the operations usually 
turned out by machinery. Needles 
which have large eyes can of course, be 
turned out by machines, but in the very 
fine sorts, girls have to adjust them 
to a minute fraction of an inch, under- 
neath the machine which stamps the 
eye exactly in the centre. Japanese 
needles can be secured for as little as 
thirty cents a thousand. Steel pins 
have declined in price but brass pins re- 
main at their former level. 

There is a new style dress fastener 
now on the market which is proving to 
be a boon to home dressmakers. Its 
particular advantage lies in the fact 
that it can be sewn to the garment 
right through the centre of the dome. 
The greatest demand just now is for 
the style which can be sewn on either 
side and which lies perfectly flat on 
the material so that it can be ironed 
over without leaving a tell tale mark. 
Judging from the reports that larger 
quantities of wash goods and summer 
fabrics are selling than usual, it ap- 
pears probable that dress fasteners will 

be among the notions that sell readily 
when once the season opens. 

In buttons it is said that shirt pearls 
are in the greatest demand in sizes 18 
and 25, but low priced goods are be- 
coming very scarce, so much so as to 
cause considerable conjecture as to how 
to fill the orders coming in. There is 
an absolute shortage also in leather 
buttons, especially in the band made 
variety of which there are none to be 
had. In regulation composition or 
ivory fancy buttons the demand is en- 
tirely centered upon sizes 24 and 34 in 
practically every fashionable color. The 
sew-through style is very popular on 
account of the increasing vogue for 
tailored or sports clothes with which 
the fancy button looks out of place. 
But the demand for shank buttons is 
still large in certain quarters for the 
trimming of coats and spring suits of 
the more dressy type. Tiny trimming 
buttons are quiet just now but enquir- 
ies are coming in for a novelty drop 
button, shaped like an olive, which is 
particularly smart on dresses. 

English made jumper braids are ex- 
pected to be heavy sellers this month 
as well as black military braids in 
widths varying from 6 to 14 inches. 
Fashion decrees lavish use of these 
black military braids on cloth frocks 
and suitsso that early orders are ad- 
vised if quantities are wanted. Rick 
rack braids are being called for now in 
large quantities especially in medium 
sizes in the leading spring colors and 
the preference is shown to imported 
braids as being of better quality and 

Prices on buttons have dropped about 
40% lower than 1920 prices for the 
reason that demand fell off from the 
clothing manufacturers last year and 
the button manufacturers decided to 
keep their plants going as long as pos- 
sible making reserve stock. Button 
operators are experts whom it is un- 
desirable to lose and thus the action 
taken by the makers was a wise meas- 
ure. Now that the large stocks of un- 
sold clothing on the shelves have been 
materially reduced and retailers are 
now in a good position to buy, it is ex- 
pected that the demand for buttons will 
again spring up from all quarters. The 
manufacturers have taken up the 
question of export business with great 
success and what they cannot dispose 
of in this country they can find a good 
market for elsewhere. 

In summing up the general trend of 
spring business in notions in an inter- 
view with Dry Goods Review, a Mont- 
real wholesaler emphasized the point 
that notions can be made to be the piv- 

otal point around which a business can 
be built up. "A display table about 
6x3, with a space for reserve under- 
neath or behind, in charge of a capable 
wide-awake girl, can do as much busi- 
ness as one ten times the size, provided 
that just the goods that the public 
wants are displayed and the location is 
right at the front door," explained this 
man. "I know of small stores which 
are doing a greater business in notions 
than many of the largest department 
stores for the reason that they have 
played up their notions prominently, 
stocked the newest things always and 
kept sizes and colors, etc., complete. 
The consequence is that women will go 
out of their way to go to this little store 
because they are certain that they can 
get what they want and can purchase 
conveniently without having to spend a 
lot of time locating the department. 
Notions can roll up big sales totals if 
you give them the right opportunity, but 
you cannot expect to make a success of 
this department in 1922 if the policy 
of keeping them out of sight and show- 
ing old fashioned goods is pursued. It 
pays to be original in selling notions 
and it is just as easy to sell quantities 
as it is to sell single articles. The best 
method to follow is to display as much 
as possible out on tables so that cus- 
tomers can pick up what they want 
themselves. This is the age of table 
displays and price tickets and the 
under-glass method of display is as out 
of date as are the wax flowers that 
used to be considered the ornament of 
every parlor. Now is the time to re- 
plenish notions and small wares be- 
cause prices are at their lowest during 
the month of January. Definite ad- 
vances may be expected in February 
and March in most lines, so that no 
better time than the present can be 
looked for in which to check up pres- 
ent stock and send in orders for new 


(Continued from page 148) 
is too large for the field from which 
profit is derived, as explained above. On 
the other hand makers of articles like 
games, wooden toys, dolls, etc., can keep 
their prices low «nough to meet foreign 
competition, because they have to de- 
pend on quantity of production alone 
and not on initial costs. One of the lines 
made here, which has been able to give 
better prices than any yet imported, is 
garden sets. Home consumption has en- 
abled manufacturers to set a price which 
is several cents below foreign toys of 
the same kind. 

Dry Goods Review 



A toilet goods department ivhich presents an unusually attractive appearance. The centre display is carried out in 
purple ayid gold and each line is grouped in unit pyramids built up about, the violet shaded lamps. The display is a 
permanent feature of the Jas. Ogilvy store of Montreal and was arranged by Mrs. Morris, manager of the section. 

Inflated Pig 

Toy Novelty 

Proved to be Popular Seller for Holiday 

Season — Other Features to be 


One of the amusing- novelties of the 
Christmas season was the range of ba.- 
loon toys put out by a Montreal manu- 
facturer just before the holiday season. 
No festivity is complete without a 
number of these amusing trifles which 
come in the shape of pigs, balls, clowns, 
nigger babies and even airships. Some 
of the balloons are fitted with valves 
so that they will move quickly over a 
smooth surface, others are supplied with 
a "squawker" which emits a consider- 
able volume of noise. The pigs are per- 
haps the most papular of the present 
line and are to be shown in very large 
sizes in the near future, which will mea- 
sure as much as a yard in length. These 
are fitted with four wooden legs and 
rubber ears and decidedly realistic, 
whether fitted with the for motion 

or a squawker. The air ships or toy 
dirigibles are quite large and impressive 
in appearance, being supplied in sets 
to be inif.ated by the purchase and fit- 
ted with propeller and wings, and even 
the Union Jack upon a tiny mast. These 

toy dirigibles are priced at $24 a gross 
and are being quickly distributed all ov- 
er Canada for holiday setting. 

Another novelty introduced by the 
same firm is the covered balloon balls 
which rang'e from (3V2 inches in diameter 
to 12 inches and are covered in multi- 
colored cotton, in sectional effect, giv- 
ing a gay and even gaudy appearance. 
These are greatly in demand for child- 
ren as wed as for grown-ups at their 
holiday revels, and refihs can be had for 
the cotton covers so that the latter can 
be used again and again if the balloon 


Just introduced to Canada by Robertson 
and Murphy Ltd., of Montreal, amd the 
rage at entertainments of all sorts for both 
adults and children. The pigs are of two 
kinds, squealing or walking and come in 
two sues, both fitted with wooden legs and 
rubber ears. The tail is formed by the 
mouth piece. 

The first determined attempt on the part 
of Canadian wool growers to compete on the 
overseas market with the wool of Australia, 
New Zealand, South Africa, and South 
A merica is being made by actual sales in the 
London wool market. The first shipments 
of some seven different types of Canadian 
wool have been made to England by the 
Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers, 
these representing some of the best wools 
grown in Eastern Canada and the range 
area of the West. 



Dry Goods Review 














It's all in 
the Spring 



Strong — 
Made of 

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper 

Colonial Maid 

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners 

Made in 

D i ' MADE 




will not 

WHITE AND BLACK .-. .'. SIZES: 00-0-1 

To be had of all leading wholesalers. 

Manufactured by 

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited 

Montreal, Que. 

Dry Goods Review 







Are so styled and priced that the Button Buyer can 
see in them the appeal that pulls sales. 


should merit your confidence and your orders. 

Forsyth Kimmel Company 







Trade Mark 

How Do You Stand as 

Regards Your Button Stocks? 

Do not allow your button depart- 
ment to run short of any line. 
Buttons are always in demand. 
We carry the largest range and 
can ship at once. 
Resolve not to lose a sale this 
year, by not having asked for 

Your mail order will receive 
prompt and personal attention. 
Ask the Button men what's what. 
Travellers now out with Spring range. 

Button Sales Limited 

66 Wellington St. W. - Toronto 

This wax figure will make a wonderful attrac- 
tion for your SPRING DISPLAY. Write for 
prices, etc. 


63-65 West 36th Street, New York 



Dry Goods R 


New Importance of Equipment 

Manufacturer, in Closing Best Year in His History, Says Mer- 
chants Are Being Forced Through Keener Competition to Instal 
Better Equipment — When Headless Figures Should be Used and 
Not Used Selection of Figures — "Interchangeable Heads." 

AN ILL-WIND that blew badly for 
some of the trade, was true to form 
in blowing good to others. A pro- 
minent manufacturer of wax figures in this 
country, says that never in the history of 
his business has he had as large a turnover 
as this year. The Summer season especially, 
was good this year. The numbers of small 
merchants who are beginning to realize the 
great value to them of display, is remarkable 
compared with a year ago. He gives two 
reasons for this. One is that the dry goods 
trade in Canada is getting nearer the stand- 
ard that is set in the United States. Our 
people are expecting more, our merchants 
are keeping more closely in touch with their 
trade papers and with their competitors, 
and they are devoting more time to travel 
than formerly. The other reason is, com- 
petition was so keen and business so poor 
this year that merchants were forced to 
look for attractive ways of displaying their 
goods. The last two years of the war 
brought trade so easily, that merchants fell 
into the way of th nking that good display 
was unnecessary. If they had not the mer- 
chandise that was asked for, they had some- 
thing else which the customer would take 
without a murmur, because money was plen- 
tiful and variety was hard to get. This year, 
the buying public were satisfied with nothing 
but the thing they wanted and even then 
only when merchants emphasized values and 

Business in equipment during December 
and early January was much quieter than 
at any time last year, except the correspond- 
ing months. This is only natural. The mer- 
chant who has not taken the trouble to 
install special equipment for Christmas, 
certainly has not the time to devote to 
it in December. January is the time for or- 
dering spring merchandise and February the 
big month for getting his display materials 
together. One Toronto wholesale specialist 
in these lines, says that in 1921 he cleared 
$20,000 more than in 1920 in spite of the 
lowered costs of the f nished work. Next 
year, he will be very much disappointed if he 
does not increase this profit by $25,000. 

Points About Spring Display Goods 

In ordering racks, stands, figures and fix- 
tures of all kinds for spring showings, one 
merchant with many years experience, ad- 
vised the retailer to stock a plentiful supply 
of waist forms this season. A strong revival 
in waists is expected and they are one 
class of merchandise which need forms. 
Camisole stands follow as a consequence of 
the vogue for waists. These are good in 
either the ivory or the grey finish but there 
is a slight preference for the French grey 
because of the high colors in which camisoles 
are now made. In ordering dress and suit 
forms, he warns the merchants to ask for 
the narrow shoulder type. It is very diffi- 
cult to fit the prevailing modes on some of 
the forms now on the market. 

This merchant believes, that as a general 
rule, it is well to use figures with heads for 
window displays. They are much more ex- 
pensive but two of these in an ordinary 
window are more effective than three or four 
of the headless ones. In the departments 
where customers come to see the actual 
garments which are sold exclusively there, 
it is quite all right to use the headless ones. 
The point to emphasize in the window is that 
the passing public roust be attracted, to the 
general display, while the floor of the store 
roust carry the responsibility of showing mer- 
chandise which will bear close scrutiny, 
apart from the way it is displayed. In the 
matter of heads, our informant believes that 
fair hair in wax models has the effect of 
attract : ng more attention and that there 
should be at least one fair model in every 
group. It is, for the same reason, the best 
type to use in showing an unusual display. 
The dark-haired models are by far the best 
where the numbers of such figures are limited 
to one or two, because almost every shade 
may be used on them. Red-haired models 
should be chosen most carefully of all. 

A Canadian manufacturer is now making 

Sew standing enamel display 
form which is particularly 

adapted to the models shown in 
Spring gowns. Note the nar- 
rowed shoulders and slim gen- 
eral outline. — p HOWN BY THE 
Dale Wax Fip.ure Company, 

a head which may be used on any number of 
figures. It is called the. ' "interchangeable 
head." If a dealer orders one of these heads 
at one time along with a figure, he can at a 
later date have another figure made to fit it, 
provided he gives the size or number of the 
head. This is of great assistance to the mer- 
chant who can thus have a reclining figure, 
an upright one, a stout and a small figure at 
a minimum of cost. 

Draping stands are becoming more and 
more popular as merchants realize the splen- 
did effect of a drapery trim in a window or on 
a counter. It is almost impossible, on the 
other hand, to display fabrics to get either 
the proper sunlight or a good overhead light- 
ing without these forms. 

Men's wax models are almost as essential 
as women's, though retailers in this country 
have not yet taken advantage of them to any 
great extent. It may probably be that man- 
ufacturers have not reached the same point 
of perfection in these as they have in wo- 
men's and childien's forms. This is even 
true of the French models, which are world- 
renowned. It seems very strange, that while 
the athletic type of man is shown in art and 
particularly in commercial art, wax-figure 
manufacturers still keep to the polite, draw- 
ing-room man when they make their models. 
There are some milliners who prefer to 
show their hats on stands rather than on 
heads. There is no doubt however that more 
milliners are ordering one or two heads for 
their shops than ever before, because there 
are vast opportunities in them for pleasing 
impatient and homely patrons. Women are 
often induced to buy when they see how 
they should look rather than how they do 

With the vogue for lace collars of the very 
open type this spring, manufacturers are 
laying stress on collar forms which are fin- 
ished in a flesh enamel. The trade are put- 
ting a great deal of faith in these. One re- 
tailer claims that he increased his collar 
sales twenty per cent in one week, by instal- 
ling a half dozen forms and instructing his 
saleswomen in their use. 

Shoe stands are gaining in favor, manu- 
facturers declare. They enable merchants to 
display more shoes than they could by leav- 
ing them all on the floor of the window. 


By an order-in-council dated January 1 1 , 
1922, the operation of the law requiring im- 
ported goods to be marked with an indica- 
tion of the country of origin, has been post- 
poned until after the close of the next session 
of Parliament. This order cancels all the 
regulations issued by the Department of 
Customs and Excise respecting marking. 
Goods may, for the time being, be imported, 
without having the country of origin marked 
on them. 

])fn Goods Rt view 



The Problems of Retail Advertising 

Neil R. Bell Says it is the Force That Makes the Wheels Go Round 
— Mediums of Advertising — Writing the Advertisement and 
Things That Should be Avoided — Advertising is Salesmanship. 

IN THE limited time at my disposal 
to give you a talk on "Retail Adver- 
tising," it must necessarily follow 
that what I say will he just a general 
analysis of retail advertising as a whole 
— and I might mention in passing that 
my remarks will not apply so much to 
departmental store advertising — (al- 
though a departmental store is nothing 
more or less than a number of retail 
stores assembled under one roof) as 
retail stores in a general sense. 

It is no exaggerate n to say that 
advertising in retail stores is the force 
that makes the wheels go round — it's 
the power of the husiness. The many 
failures of retail stores which are 
recorded yearly, cannot always be laid 
to p:or advertising or the lack of adver- 
tising. One or more of many causes 
may have been responsible. But, when 
a retail merchandiser is a success, it is a 
safe assumption, in the majority of 
cases, that he is a successful advertiser. 
Not necessarily a good one, because his 
success may be only partial — a pojr 
realization of excellent opportunities — 
but, if he sells enough goods over his 
counter to make the books balance on 
the right side of the ledger at the end 
of the year, and continues to do so, it 
means that he has, somehow, reached his 
public, impressed them sufficiently either 
with the merits of the goads, his own 
personality, or some particular of his 
store to bring them to his counters, in- 
stead of his neighbors'. 

Advertising, while so absolutely essen- 
tial to retail merchandising, cannot ck> 
everything. It cannot compete against 
poor business ability — careless manage- 
ment — lack of sufficient capital or sim- 
ilar handicaps which make success an 
impossibility. It must have a proper 
foundation to build upon. But, given 
that foundation, the manner in which 
it is used determines the measure of 
success or failure of a retail store. 

Different Ways To Advertise 

There are many ways to advertise a 
retail store, and it is difficult to formu- 
late any set of rules for general use. 
Because, every individual store has its 
own requirements and conditions which 
must be taken into account when an 
advertising outlay is planned. Success- 
ful merchants have solved their prob- 
lems in a variety of ways. Newspaper 
display is the most common farm — -street 
car advertising, billboards, circular let- 
ters, blotters, novelties of all description 
olay their part in the general scheme 
of publicity. Only by careful and earn- 
est study will you be able to solve the 

The accompanying address on 
Retail Advertising was delivered at 
a meeting of the Hamilton Ad. 
Club by Neil R. Bell, Advertising 
Manager of "The Right House," 
one of the successful department 
stores in that city. It covers many 
interesting points that are of daily 
use to the advertising manager and 
deals with problems that face him 
daily. Not the least of these is the 
actual layout of the advertising 
and the instructions to the printer. 

problem of finding the method which 
best suits your particular case. 


Newspaper display space, as men- 
tioned previously, is on e of the most 
common forms of advertising used by 
retailers and it is one of the best. So 
many merchants, large and small, 
throughout th e country, are successful 
users of newspaper space that there is 
no question as to its value. It can be, 
I think, fairly asserted, that as a gen- 
eral rale, it takes years of advertising 
through billboards, street cars, pro- 
grams and circular letters to bring the 
same results that a constant newspaper 
campaign will effect in a short time. 
I do not mean by this that these latter 
mentioned forms of publicity are not 
valuable for retailers — they are all good 
in their way. Constant newspaper ad- 
vertising will not only bring people to 
buy frcm you and increase your busi- 
ness, but it will raise your standing as 
a business man. It will give you better 
credit. It will enable you to buy more 
cheaply and in larger quantities. The 
wholesaler or manufacturer knows your 
advertising gives your store a wider 
outlet for his goods than that of a non- 
advertising- competitor. He sees that 
you get the best selling propositions 
he bas, because be knows you wyi) 
push his goods. Things move in circles 
— you have a business that enables you 
to advertise — that increases your busi- 
ness — increased business means more 
advertising, and, so on — in an endless 
branching that brings you to success. 

Writing An Advertisement 

It is not necessary to make an ad- 
vertisement a piece of literature. The 
selling points' you use across the counter 
are the points you should incorporate in 
your advertising. For, advertising is 
salesmanship on paper — nothing more, 
nothing less. The man or woman who 
will be interested in your advertisement, 

who is in the market for the article 
you wish to sell, wants to know but 
few things; but those things must be 
presented in a natural, interesting, con- 
vincing manner. A description of the 
article for sale, its particular advan- 
tage and value, and, its price, are the 
salient points you wish to impress up-n 
the prospect. 

Avoid Levity 

Always avoid levity in advertising. 
Anything which tends toward the 
humorous in copy invariably weakens L. 
The bright sally or jest which seems 
so funny when it is written usually 
looks very flat when reduced to cold 
type. The public usually resents any- 
thing of this kind and fails to give the 
advertisement the attention it should 
receive. People who are spending money 
do not regard it as a joke, it is usually 
a serious matter with them. If a 
stranger entered a retail store and ex- 
amined an article, the proprietor would 
not regard this as an opportunity to 
be humorous, or to show his ability as a 
linguist — on the contrary, he would show 
the article in which his prospect was 
interested and respectfully and earnest- 
ly explain its advantages and merits — 
name its price and emphasize it if it 
was a special inducement. He would 
strive in every way to make a good 
impression, to make the prospect feel 
favorable toward the article in question 
and to create a desire on his or her 
part to own it. If the merchandise in 
question is right, and the price right, 
the sale would probably be made. The 
retailer accomplished this by the very 
simple process of showing his goods, 
explaining their merits and naming a 
price which convinced the prospect that 
it was a good buy for him or her. 

Advertising Is Salesmanship 

The same retailer, when lie takes his 
pencil in hand to prepare an advertise- 
ment often ignores the very sales meth- 
ods and sales points which enable him 
to sell goods over his counters. He 
forgets the salient points he wishes to 
bring to the attention of his readers. 
He forgets properly to present and 
emphasize the vital facts in which they 
are interested and floats off among the 
clouds, finally turning out an advertise- 
ment absolutely lacking in sellingyforce. 

In preparing an .ad., it, is a good plan 
to follow the same method a newspaper 
reporter uses when preparing a story 
or an article. Put the gist of your news 
— the most important of your facts. — in 
the first paragraph of your adver- 
( Continued on page 163) 



Dry Goods Review 

Are You Picking Location for Store? 

Or Are You Selecting The Cheapest Place You Can Get? — 
This Article Brings Out Points That Should Be Considered- 
Details As To The Definite Proportion Of Gross Receipts 
Each Type of Business Can Afford To Pay For Rent. 

NOW THAT the necessity of care- 
fully watching every item of our 
overhead expense is being forc- 
ed upon us by reduced profits and great- 
er difficulty in securing business, we are 
beginning to realize that if we are to 
make a successful showing in the com- 
petition for business, we must careful- 
ly analyze every item that goes into 
our expense budget to see that no one 
item absorbs more than its due propor- 
tion of the general charges. 

The general complaint therefore of 
high rentals which is heard at the pre- 
sent time in all parts of Canada rend- 
ers opportune a discussion on the sub- 
ject of rentals in relation to the amount 
of business done by the retailer, of just 
how and why certain sites are chosen, 
the average percentage, different types 
of business set aside for rent and why 
certain merchants can! afford to pay 
more for certain locations than others. 
In a recent issue of "Forbes," C. C. 
Nichols, president of the Chain Stores 
Leasing Co., deals with the subject, 
primarily from the point of view of the 
chain store, but as a great part of what 
he says is of general interest to all mer- 
chants, our readers will, no doubt, ap- 
preciate a resume of the points he 
brings out. Mr. Nichols is one of the 
foremost authorities in the United 
States on the selection of sites for re- 
tail chain stores. His remarks will 
therefore carry weight. 

Careful Attention to Details 

When I started out in my present 
business, he writes, I first trained my 
mind to retain what might also be term- 
ed a photograph of given districts. In 
looking them over I gave close atten- 
tion to the physical condition of the 
buildings, the street level, location of 
show windows and doors, the height of 
the ceilings, the size of the posts and 
whether or not the buildings had avail- 
able basements. 

It is an interesting psychological fact 
that women buyers will walk to a base- 
ment more readily than they will take 
an elevator, and that where you have 
a broad stairway with a wide opening 
near the front of the store, as in 5-ancf 
10-cent stores, women will catch sight 
of the merchandise and walk down with- 
out question, either forgetting or ig- 
noring the return trip. Second-floor lo- 
cations must also be carefully scrutin- 
ized, as men will walk up one flight to 
save money. However, from a stand- 
point of lowered expenses it is a ques- 
tion whether the merchant saves any- 
thing in the long run on a second-floor 
location, as he must spend much more, 
proportionately, in advertising. 



The accompanying article is of 
special interest and importance at 
the present time on account of the 
enforced movement of many re- 
tailers from their present places 
of business due to high rents and, 
in many cases, increasing rents. 
For instance, a certain retailer on 
Granville Street, Vancouver, in a 
published statement not long ago 
said it was impossible with the 
present rents in that city to live 
and deal fairly with the public. 
He stated that he had paid $300 
per month in 1919, $475 in 1920, 
and $600 in 1921. A new lease 
tohich he had been asked to sign 
demanded $2,000 per month. He 
was leaving. 

We know of merchants on Yonge 
Street, Toronto, whose rent is be- 
ing increased 45 and 60 per cent. 
Some of them are also moving be- 
cause they say it is impossible to 
do business and make profits with 
such a high rent. 

It is in view of the necessity 
arising to select a new site that 
this article is run. 

Watch Street Car Travelers 

Another thing to which I pay the 
greatest attention is the traveling pop- 
ulation. I watch to see where people 
get on and off cars and analyze the gen- 
eral types. I study them to see wheth- 
er they are the transient kind which 
only brings "drop in" business for drug 
and cigar stores. These I classify diff- 
erently from the type which comes pre- 
pared to purchase. There is also what I 
call "station traffic," consisting largely 
of commuters; such persons are always 
in a hurry and usually add little to the 
coffers of the adjacent merchants. 

In visiting a city or town I study 
carefully the advertising of local mer- 
chants, watching to see what part of 
this is regular advertising and what 
part is that of the merchant who is not 
located desirably and who must spend 
money in advertising to coax the cus- 
tomers to his store. I also pay particu- 
lar attention to the difference in the 
classes of people frequenting different 
blocks. One block may be popular with 
the customer buying the cheapest class 
of goods, the second with those inter- 
ested in things of moderate price, while 
the third may draw the highest class of 
trade. I am also much impressed with 
the fact that the blocks given over to 
women's trade are usually shunned by 

There are two distinct types of lo- 
cation known to real estate men — men's 
and women's. As a rule the shady side 
of the street is the women's side, and 
rentals are about 25 per cent, higher. 
Where one side of the street develops 
women's business, the other stands fair 
to be good for men. It costs more in 
every way to do business in a woman's 
shop than in a man's, but women spend 
much more money in clothes than men 
do, and, on the other hand, women are 
more creatures of habit than men, and 
go in crowds. Department stores be- 
ing classed as women's stores are us- 
ually on the shady side, but in some 
cases have early located differently and 
have drawn the trade. 

Just as there are two kinds of loca- 
tions, so there are two divisions in 
which we may class the merchants. 
Where a merchant is an advertiser he 
can afford to take a chance on a loca- 
tion. He may even go on the wrong 
side of the street or venture a block be- 
yond the business district. Sometimes 
he even dares to locate on a side street. 
There are noticeable examples of stores 
that have done this with great success. 

Crowded Streets Not Always Best 

Non-advertisers naturally have to be 
more careful about choosing their lo- 
cations and must select places where 
heavy traffic passes their doors. In do- 
ing this they must be far-sighted and 
must anticipate where traffic is going 
to centre during the entire term of their 
lease. Being dependent for their busi- 
ness on the passing crowds, a loss of 
traffic would be disastrous. On the 
other hand, they should be careful not 
to commit the fatal error of selecting 
a place where the traffic moves so swift- 
ly that people do not have time to look 
in the windows, read signs and deliber- 
ate on purchase. 

Many progressive merchants continue 
both soliciting and advertising, reaping 
excellent results from the justified 
method. They have carried the study 
of locations to such a fine point that 
the psychology of the passing crowd and 
its purpose in that district is carefully 
included in their calculations. 

Points Which Establish Value 
When I start out to establish the value 
of a given piece of property, the first 
thing I do is to find out the population. 
The second is to determine the charac- 
ter of people who purchase their mer- 
chandise in that city. Third, I investi- 
gate the main industries, to see wheth- 
er it is a good city for men or for wo- 
men. Fourth, I investigate the deposits 
(Continued on page 163) 

Dry Goods Review 




(Continued from page 162) 

and the bank clearings, which give an 
excellent history of business conditions. 
In doing this, however, great care must 
be exercised to see that deposits are dis- 
tributed and that one has a reasonable 
chance of getting business from depo- 
sitors. A mere statement of bank clear- 
ings and deposits is not sufficient to es- 
tablish this fact. In Tulsa, Oklahoma, 
for intance, deposits are large and the 
clearings tremendous, but out of the 
$25,000,000 deposits of one bank alone, 
$10,000,000 is equally divided between 
two or three men which narrows down 
the sales possibilities. Fifth, the num- 
ber of different industries in the city 
and the proportion of manufacturers in 
the city and the proportion of manufac- 
turers to clerks. Sixth, after this has 
been thoroughly studied the proper way 
to locate a store is to plot the position 
of the several business blocks in their 
locations as to traffic, separating the 
women's from the men's. 

When your block has been chosen, se- 
cure definite and reliable information on 
each piece of property in the block and 
the possibility of securing it, always 
remembering that a location's value de- 
pends only on the volume of actual 
business that particular site will secure 
for you. In this connection the same lo- 
cation might be worth $3,000 to one 
man and $4,000 to another. It is like 
putting a square peg in a round hole to 
put a cheap store in a valuable location, 
and vice versa. The drawing power of 
the surrounding territory must also be 
taken into consideration. 

Analysis of Passersby 

Some interesting statistics have been 
compiled in regard to the estimated 
percentage of people passing a given 
point who may be counted on to enter 
a store. Let us say it is a woman; 
where a thousand women pass a store in 
an hour a certain percentage will 
enter, a certain percentage will buy, 
and there is an average sale to each 
one. At this rate the merchant will do 
a certain amount of business an hour, 
eight hours a day, or a given amount of 
business yearly, three hundred days. 
(I have actually worked out this system 
for several different lines.) By this 
plan the merchant can form some es- 
timate of his receipts, and can gauge 
what he can afford to pay for rent, etc. 
But, of course, he has to adjust these 
figures to the locality, traffic passing, 
type of people, the amount of sales, 
his particular type of stock, andi many 
other individual conditions, such as com- 
petition. However, if he is an exper- 
ienced man he can easily figure up a 
close estimate of probable business by 
this method. 

There is a very definite proportion 
of gross receipts which each type of 
business can afford to pay for rent. 
High-class retail stores who are large 
advertisers can afford to pay six per 
cent, (as a rule department stores aver- 

age around three per cent.); non-adver- 
tising, small specialty shops about eight 
per cent; 5- and 10- cent stores who 
are non-advertisers, five per cent.; high- 
class theaters and hotels, nine per cent; 
drug stores and soda water shops, fruit 
and candy stores, ten per cent.; grocery 
and provisions, ten per cent.; restaurants 
and cafeterias which do a long hour 
business, ten to twelve per cent.; cigar 
stores, six to eight per cent.; baker 
shops and shoe shining stands, twelve 
per cent; moving picture theaters and 
low-priced amusement places, skating 
rinks, bowling alleys, pool rooms, etc., 
twelve per cent. These last depreciate 
property and, therefore, a higher rental 
is exacted. 


(Continued from page 161) 

tisement. Then elaborate on the facts 
you wish to incorporate in your ad in 
the order of their importance. Describe 
the gcods you are offering. State the 
prices. Explain why they are a good 
"buy". Avoid the use of superfluous 
words, bat don't make your description 
too bare — remember, the man or woman 
who reads your advertisement is not as 
familiar with the articles you are des- 
cribing as you are, and it is the purpose 
of your advertisement to make them so. 

Theatre Programs 

People go to the theatre to forget 
ordinary cares and matters and to be 
entertained. This mental attitude cannot 
be said to be very favorable to adver- 
tising; although the attention given 
the program before the play or enter- 
tainment begins and between the acts 
is at a time when the mind is impres- 
sionable. How far an interesting play 
or a cheerful entertainment goes towards 
effacing the impressions made by the 
advertisement cannot be gauged. The 
homjej reading quality of the theatre 
program is weak, very weak. A res- 
taurant, making a specialty of after- 
theatre suppers should be able to get 
good results f rem this medium, so should 
an ice cream parlor located near the 
theatre. Clothing, hats, flowers, jewelry, 
toilet articles, dancing academies, can 
also be advertised to advantage on 
theatre programs, provided the rate is 


Retail merchants and advertising 
managers have much to contend with in 
the way of solicitors that sell space in 
church and school programs, catalogues, 
telephone books, directories, etc. In 
some cities, the conditions are such 
that the local retail merchants' associa- 
tions have passed resolutions pledging 
themselves not to buy space in programs 
and in such cases a copy of the resolu- 
tion is usually posted in the store for 
the benefit of solicitors — rarely is the 
value of Bpace in such a medium worth 
anything like the price asked, sometimes 

the advertising value is practically noth- 
ing and the only thing the advertiser 
receives for his money, is the good will 
of the solicitor or the one he represents 
and this may or may not be of service. 

Outdoor advertising, street car adver- 
tising, circulars, direct mail advertising 
and various other forms of publicity 
all have their merits, in some measure, 
but which we cannot deal with now. 

Just one word in closing — let us all 
strive to live up to the motto or slogan 
of the Associated Advertising Clubs of 

Silver Cup For 

Best Displays 

Method Used by Montreal Firm to 

Stimulate Showcase Display 


Recognizing that competition al- 
ways stimulates personal effort, no 
matter in what direction, the Montreal 
firm of Almy's Limited have originated 
a very satisfactory scheme to encour- 
age enthusiasm on the part of the sell- 
ing staff in keeping their various dis- 
play cases dressed as artistically as pos- 
sible. This plan consists of awarding 
a handsome silver cup trophy to the de- 
partment whose displays are most ar- 
tistic throughout any month. 

The trophy, which was presented for 
this purpose by the store management, 
is a very large one, designed like a 
loving cup and engraved with an in- 
scription setting forth the purpose for 
which it was offered, and in itself is a 
remarkably beautiful thing. The win- 
ner of the trophy has the privilege of 
showing it in his or her principal show 
case for 30 days, after which the com- 
mittee in charge of judging, number- 
ing three of the official personnel, 
award it anew and it is transferred to a 
new position. It so happens from time 
to time that the same department is ad- 
judged superior in point of artistic dis- 
plays for more than a month and it is 
allowable for the cup to be retained 
by the winner for two months, but as a 
general rule, the committee try to ad- 
here to the one month policy, since it 
keeps interest up to a greater extent. 

After the cup has been won and is in 
place amid a new display of neckwear, 
fancy goods, ribbons, etc., as the case 
may be, a card is added which explains 
to the public the idea underlying the 
award of the trophy. It runs after this 
manner. "This cup was won by this 
department for the best display during 
the month of November." 

According to a member of the firm 
the awarding of the trophy undoubtedly 
stimulates the sales staff to take great- 
er care of its show cases, to devise new 
methods of dressing them and) more 
original colour schemes. The public 
are quick also to notice the presence of 
the handsome cup with its explanatory 
card and they frequently enquire who 
the winner is each month. 



Dry Goods Revier 

Attractive Display is Big Feature of 

The Success of the Gay Chain of Stores 

Fancy Work Department Leads As Profitable One — Notions 
Is One Of The Feature Departments Of The Organization — 
Ribbons Are Sold Through Effective Display Work — Work- 
men's Needs Are Not Overlooked. 

THERE is a direct answer to those 
re ailers who complain that busi- 
ness is quiet in different lines, in 
the analysis of the methods employed 
by the Gay Stores, of which there are 
five at present in Canada, whose ex- 
traordinary success is only equalled by 
the famous Woolworth organization. The 
Gay Stores are the result of the efforts 
of one ambitious woman, who recog- 
nized the i eed for shops in which pretty 
things and useful things could be ob- 
tained for li.tle money. She felt that 
there was a great opportunity for such 
a store, especially in localities in which 
large numbers of industrial workers 
were living, and so she decided to oper- 
ate a chain of such shops, devoted to 
the selling- of really worthwhile mer- 
chandise of every description at prices 
which represented the very lowest fig- 
ures possible. She calculated that sue 
could make sufficient profit out of a 
good many stores to enable her to fix 
the maximum iprice at $1 and she found 
that by buying the stock in as large a 
quantity as she could obtain it, the cost 
price was much lower than in the reg- 
ular way. So, with a well defined 
policy to sell nothing' but the best mer- 
chandise obtainable at the lowest market 
price, the Gay Stores were started a 
short time ago and have already won a 
place for themselves- as supplying one of 
the great needs in industrial life The 
policy of the Gay Stores is just what 
one might expect of their originator, 
who is well known to the merchandising 
world as Mrs. Almy, vice-president of 
Almy's Limited, and whose idea it was 
to name the stores in such a manner as 
to emphasize their character without 
stressing their commercial side to the 
extent that is done with most stores of 
the 5, 10 and 15 cent type. 

As a matter of fact, there is much 
about the merchandising methods of the 
Gay Stores which could be adopted with 
stroce»& by the average dry goods store, 
especi&Hy as a temporary measure to 
stimulate" business which is naturally 
dull during the latter part of January 
and' itftb February: There is the matter 
of^'displa^). equipment and care of stock, 
not to mention the details of selling, 
which might be adopted either as a 
definite policy or at least as a means to 
stimulate business in certain lines that 
show an inclination to move slowly. 

In the Gay Stores there are some 
thirty departments,, including such lines 
as underwear for men, women and chil- 

dren, hosiery, fancy work, toilet goods, 
fancy goods, stationery, candy, ribbons, 
notions, gloves, leather goods and toys. 
It is a miniature department store con- 
i lifted on precisely the same lines as 
are the biggest shops in any city, but 
with this difference -that the whole ob- 
ject of the business is not to feature 
the newest and most exclusive goods, 
but lather to undersell competitors, if 
possible, by giving the public the ben- 
efit of every decline in prices, so that 
they, not the store, benefit by any ad- 
vantageous purchase. By keeping close- 
ly in touch with xhe markets, the man- 
agement of the Gay Stores is enabled 
to buy at the closest possible prices, and 
fully 80 per cent, of the vast quantities 
of merchandise distributed between each 
of itihe five stores in Canada, is pur- 
chased in this country. 

To consider the different aspects of 
the Gay Stores in analyzing their claims 
to success, it is necesary to touch light- 
ly on the different lines featured, and 
in each case the results recorded have 
been definitely proved the best that can 
be achieved 

Fancy Work Department Leads 

Department 1 happens to be fancy- 
work and wovls, etc. The greatest suc- 
cess of the whole store has been regis- 
tered in this section due to the fact 
that there is a very wide range of 
fresh stock on display, including every 
sort of stamped pillow, pincushion, run- 
ner and centre piece with the silks or 
floss to finish them, all priced at low 
figures, yet of such a quality that when 
finished they equal the best lines on the 
market. In the range of sweater yarns, 
every color is stocked, arranged in a 
rack accessible to customers who can 
match up shades themselves. Instruct- 
ion books are sold and the selling staff 
are all expert workers in embroidery 
and needlework and welcome any prob- 
lems brought to them by customers who 
find their work' difficult. Every facility 
available in large stores is offered to 
the customers of this department and 
yet although there is nothing in it which 
costs over $1, it is the most profitable 
department in the entire store. The 
secret in a nutshell is low prices, fresh, 
new god r )s, courteous staff and friendly 
assistance of all kinds in learning stitch- 
es, etc. 

How Notions Are Promoted 

The next biggest department, is the 
notions section, which sells a vast quan- 

tity of smallwares each week. The 
general policy is followed outlined above 
but much of its vo ume of sales can be 
traced to the fact that all threads and 
spool goods are placed out on the countr 
ers, graded 1 according to size only, enab- 
ling customers to pic.v out the numbers 
lequired themselves, ascertaining the 
number of yards per spool, etc., without 
having to ask the sales girl to wait 
on them. In department stores, it is 
the custom to keep spools behind the 
counter, out of sight. The Gay Stores 
work on the opposite theory and have 
proved that sales can be doubled by 
putting the goods out on the display 
counters, thereby saving both sales 
staff and customers annoyance and 
waste of time. Buttons sell exception- 
ally well too, because they are featured 
in quantities instead of small lots. Even 
a gross of gaiter buttons can be disposed 
of in short order by displaying them 
just when the gaiter season opens and 
women are thinking of patching up 
last year's pair. The secret of dispos- 
ing of small wares quickly is to show 
them at the right time and price them 
low. Quick sales will always result. 

Big Displays Sell Ribbons 

Ribbons are another big seller, due 
perhaps to the effective displays feat- 
ured. Glass bins are arranged to cover 
the entire counters, all of uniform size, 
and filled to overflowing with quantities 
of ribbon of all colors and widths, un- 
rolled from the bolts for greater con- 
venience in selling. The effect of this 
display is undoubtedly a great contribu- 
ting cause to the volume of business 
done in ribbons. Wider widths are 
featured in the same manner in longer 
bins, and also a good display of ribbon 
novelties, showing what can be made 
from the different ribbons themselves. 
This display was made by the sales 
staff and has been the means of doubl- 
ing sales at special seasons such as 
Christmas, Easter, etc. Ribbons are 
priced equally as low as the rest of the 
goods, a favorite price being 39 cents 
a yard, but qualities are always of the 

Caters To Railway Men 

Men's furnishings likewise sell so fast 
that supplies cannot always be obtained. 
The Gay Store is located not far from 
the Railway Shops and consequently 
there is a great demand for work gloves, 
overalls, work shirts, heavy hose, etc. 
Most of the shopping is done by- .women 
but occasionally men drop in for some 

Dry Goods Review 



particular thing personally. A great 
feature this month was a strong and 
comfortable leather woiking glove priced 
at 39 cents a pair. The word spread 
through the shops and quickly the huge 
pile of gloves melted away. Strong- 
khaki work shirts are priced at !j>l and 
they likewise move quickly. 

Gigantic amounts of candy are sold 
annually from the tiay Store, which can 
be believed when the statement is made 
that a ton of hard candy alone was sold 
at Christmas time. The working man en- 
joys his week-end box of chocolates as 
well as does his wealthy brother and Sat- 
urday is a busy ciay in the candy depart- 
ment, where the best chocolates are sold 
at less than 30 cents a pound. There is 
one line in particular which has been 
named the "Gloria Gay" mixture, and 
whether it is because the candy is good 
or the name attractive, it sells all the 
time. But the secret of this extraordin- 
ary business is the fact that the supply 
of candy is never allowed to run out, 
but stocks are kept piled up constantly, 
so that there is always a mountain of 
candy in each bin all the time. When- 
ever a bin is half empty the demand 
mj -teriously falls off, but when replen- 
ished, sales spring up quickly. 

The same holds good of window dis- 
plays, which must be crowded and color- 
ful, though neatly arranged and showy, 
to produce results. Where unit displays 
of graceful arrangement attract in big 
stores, the Gay Shop draws by reason of 
quantity. The moral of this is plain— - 
the working class loves to see quantities 
of goods and plenty of variety. Art is 
a secondary mat er, price being much 
more important. 

The interior of the store is painted 
French grey throughout with a novel 
decoration in bright blue used as a 
border effect. No other elaboration is 
used, except the overhead signs which 
indicate the position of the different de- 
partments in both languages. 

There are two large music sections, 
one for the piano ard the other for the 

phonograph. In the other a very accom- 
plished little lady plays and sings to the 
delight of visiters and sells quantities 
of music for voice and piano through 
her talent in both directions. The phono- 
graph department sells records in bot.i 
French and English, the records being 
played upon a magnificent instrument 
which also attracts crowds. The man- 
agement say that customers are so rest- 
ed and refreshed by listening to good 
music that they find shopping much 
more enjoyable and they return more 
frequently on this account. 

Keeping Down Overhead Costs 

There is no delivery system maintain- 
ed by the store, nor are there any re- 
serves of stock to be brought forward. 
Eveiythinig for sale is on view, and iL' 
a bin is empty, it means that something 
else must be substituted at once — no 
more of the first article is available. 
Customers are quite willing to carry 
parcels — even to an entire dinner set 
of china — and whole families are 
pressed into service to carry away pur- 
chases of this sort. 

The displays are kept neat and orderly 
through the unremitting attention of oik 
girl in each department whose duty it 
is to arrange the displays and refill 
empty b'ns each hour. She makes it a 
r_oint not to mix goods together of dif- 
ferent prices but to display each line 
underneath its own price tag, in a separ- 
ate division. 

The methods employed in the Gay 
Stores therefore simmer down to this: 

Merchandise in quantity. 

Lowest prices. 

Neat, refined atmosphere. 

Quick service. 

In a word, the kind of goods the 
people want at prices they can afford. 


The General Executive Board of the Inter- 
national Fur Workers Union in annual sess- 
ion in Montreal decided to uphold the local 
unions of New York, Brooklyn, and Newark, 
New Jersey, in their demands for the main- 
tenance of conditions already prevailing in 
these centres, which include the 44-hour 
week, time and a half for overtime and ten 
legal holidays per year. 

The agreements with manufacturers in 
these centres expire on January 31 and tin- 
conditions set forth will be pressed for when 
the question of renewal comes forward. 
The General Executive Board pledged full 
support to the unions in their efforts to 
bring about renewal of agreements on these 

A delightful dance followed by a sup- 
per and more dancing, was the splendid 
entertainment given by H. P. Ritchie 
and Co. to their employees and a few 
business friends on January 6. Through 
Mr. Ritchie's generosity, this is an an- 
nual affair and greatly looked forward 
to by the staff. 

The examining depar ment was taste- 
fully decorated for the occasion with col- 
ored balloon, bunting and f ags. Sever- 
al feature dances enlivened the evening 
which was all too short and there was 
progressive euchre for those who did 
not dance. 

This entertainment is now looked 
upon as an annual institution, at which 
the heads of the firm act as hosts and 
as workers, while the e-ii'iloyees are the 
happy guests. 

The British Clothing House, of North 
Bay, was recently robbed of $500 worth 
of merchandise. 

E. A. Beauchim has recently purchased 
the men's wear store owned by J. F. Many 
of^Coaticook, Quebec. 


Perkus & Swastika Co., Ont. 

Messrs. Perkus & Company have recently 
augmented the display equipment of their 
Swastika. Ontario, store by the addition 
of "Dresden" silent salesmen with special 
trays for shirt display. "Dresden" cases 
are built by Kent-McClain, Limited, (To- 
ronto Show Case Company i. 

There is a difference between a mere display of linens and a display of lineiis with a suitable background to 
show them off. The above illustration brings out this difference very well and an added attraction is given to 
a well arranged linen showing by Charles Ogilvy Co., Ltd., of Ottawa. 



Dry Goods Review 

Lamson impr 


Dry Goods Review 



Read what this New Cable Service 
will do in Your Store 

This latest improvement in Lamson Service does 
two things that are of vital importance to mer- 
chants during 1922. It cuts down operating ex- 
penses — it gives customers uniformly quicker 

AN automatic central desk is the new fea- 
ture of the improved system. 

All carriers coming to this new desk are dis- 
charged on a fast moving belt, which takes 
them almost instantly to a receiving shelf in 
the center, within easy reach of the operators 
on either side. 

Under the usual arrangement, cashiers and 
authorizers sit on opposite sides of the desk, 

A few of the most 

Uniform quick service. All sales are handled 
in the consecutive order in which they arrive 
at the central desk. 

Even distribution of work. As any incoming 
carrier can be handled by any operator, all 
operators are kept uniformly busy. 

•and both pick up their carriers direct from 
the belt or receiving shelf, the two kinds of 
carriers being designated by colors. The old 
time relay from cashier to authorizer with its 
expense and waste of time is thus done away 

Outgoing lines are grouped in the center of 
the desk so that operators on both sides can 
despatch carriers quickly and easily. 

important advantages 

Flexibility. The cashiering force can be ex- 
panded or contracted in proportion to the 

Convenient Operation. The new desk en- 
ables operators to handle their work with 
less fatigue, as they do not have to leave their 

This new central desk is easily installed in place of an old-style desk. 
Lines and clerk stations need not be disturbed. The moderate cost of 
such a change is soon absorbed by the savings it makes. Let our near- 
est office give you full particulars of this new type of service. If you 
place your order for this equipment in January, you can begin making 
savings with your new system during the busy Spring sales. 


Toronto, Ont., 136 Simcoe Street 

Vancouver, B.C. 603 Hastings Street 

6vib Service 




Dry Goods Revii ti 



'Do Appearances Count' 

We have in stock exceptional stands and forms for millinery trade. 
Call at our show rooms and inspect our lines. 

Write for our catalogue showing complete range of fixtures, figures 
and forms. 

Full line of dress, suit and skirt hangers carried in stock. 


London, England Toronto, Canada 

Established 1896 REPRESENTATIVES Incorporated 1908 

Vancouver, B. C— J. S. Maxwell & Co., Mercantile Bids. Halifax, N. S. — D. A. Gorrie. Box 273. 

Montreal, Que. B. O. Barette & Co., 301 St. James St. Quebec - Nap. Debigare. 205 Rue des Fosses, 

Travelling Western Representative;- S. J. Barley. 

Drtj Goods Review 



Why Not Keep Business in Your Town ? 

You can overcome the Mail Order House. 
You can stop trading in the nearest city. 


By installing the New Way System of store equipment. 
By giving the same service as the big store. 
By selling the same goods at the same prices. 

The above photo shows a New Way Store in a town oi 4000 people, equipped with the 
New Way System, that keeps business in the Home Town. 
Consult with us. You can do the same. 




29-31 Adelaide Street W. 

*r -v.. 



Dry Goods Review 

Dale Wax Figure Co., Limited 

Our new standing enaiu- 
el Display Form, made 
in sizes 16 and 36. heav- 
ily weighted and stands 
perfectly rigid. This 
form is used extensively 
in all leading American 

86 York Street, Toronto 

Canada's Leading Manu- 
facturers of High Grade 
Wax Figures, Display 
Forms and Fixtures. Every- 
thing for the Better Display 
of Merchandise. Order now 
in plenty of time for your 
Spring Display. Avoid 

No. 279 

Glove Stand finished in 
oxidized copper, nickel plate, 
brush brass or statuary 

No. 3061, Plateau 

Finished in Old Gold, Old Ivory oi any 

color tone required. 

Write now for our Catalogues covering 

all lines. 

Dale Wax Figure Co., 


Representatives : 

MONTREAL: P. R. Munro, 
259 Bleury Street. 

WINNIPEG: O'Brien Allen & Co., 
Phoenix Block. 

VANCOUVER: E. R. Bollart & Son, 
Mercantile Bldg. 

IT i 

No. 151 E 

Girl's Wax Figure, made in 
all sizes. 

No. 285 

Handkerchief Stand fin- 
ished 1 in Oxidized copper, 
nickel plate, brush brass 
or statuary bronse. 

Dry Goods Review 



Make Your Show Windows The Pride of Your Town 


Start to plan your Spring displays NOW. 
Sit down now and write us. Give us a gen- 
eral idea of your windows. We will be 
glad to furnish you with suggestions and 
estimates. f 

No. 3044. 
Latest Shirt Waist. 

Mounted on Louis XVI. 


Finished Old Ivory, 

Mahogany & Walnut 

No. 84. 
Tee Stand. 


10 to 20 and 15 to 25 

any Finishes. 

No. 86. 
Card Holder. 

Standard 20, 25, 30 in. 
high, any Finishes. 

No. 275. Dress Stand. 

Adjustable 24 to 40, 

Oxidized, Nickel, Brass, 

Statuary Bronze & Finishes. 


247-249 Craig St. West, Montreal. 


No. 70D-2 71-GH 72 SGG 73 S NO. 70 Shelf. 

Combination of 50" long 26" wide, 7' high sections. Center units for^Shirts^Underwear, Skirts, 

Gloves, Hose, Collars and Sundries. 

Are your fixtures worthy of Your Store 

the wares you display? Our 
name in fixtures means dura- 

Show Cases, 

Wall Cases, 





Detracts by 

the Quality 
bility and attractiveness with f j£ 

moderate expense. Fixtures 





Dni Goods Review 

Spring Draperies Reflect Orchard and Forest; 
Montreal Houses will Not Import, but Convert 

Oetonnes Tend Toward Small and Neat Floral Designs — An 
Apple Blossom Design — Block Prints In Four Ground Colors — 
New Sun-fast Casement Cloths — Cretonnes For Tub Frocks 

And Neckwear. 

THE SPRING showings of drapery 
fabrics of all descriptions seen at 
one of Montreal's most important 
wholesale showrooms are impressive 
from more than one point of view. To 
describe the multitude of new patterns, 
[materials, coloring's and improvements 
in general could not be attempted in 
detail, but one or two outstanding feat- 
ures call for emphasis. The coming year 
is going to be one in which a greater 
amount of converting of domestic drap- 
ery fabrics will be attempted than has 
ever been accomplished before in Can- 
ada, and as a result, there will be less 
need to import these goods from other 
countiies than has been the case foi - 
many years past. That a great need for 
household draperies exists in Canada is 
the confirmed belief of our leading man- 
ufactures, and their Spring expositions 
of new ranges is perhaps the finest 
ever seen in this particular fie'.d. 

In the selection of patterns for the 
new Spring draperies, the designers 
have used especially good judgment. 
Adapting their designs from the best 
imported materials, they have combined 
beauty and utility with harmony, and 
the new products are to be placed upon 
the market at prices which represents 
mere fraction of the cost of the original 
fabrics. . . . . 

Small Designs For Cretonnes 
From the wide range of dainty bed- 
room chintzes offered for Spring the 
most apparent chalracteristic is then 
extreme delicacy of coloring and design. 
Gone forever are the crudities of the 
war years, when the public put up with 
the worst specimens of amateurish ef- 
fort since the mills were operating 
under such immense difficulties. But 
now all the inferior products have gone 
by the board, and instead we find in- 
tricately lovely floral motifs cunningly 
interwoven to represent nature at her 
best, with bud and full blown blossom 
entwined in artistic effects. Patterns 
tend towards the small neat figures 
rather than the huge, sprawling effects 
formerly considered peculiar to chintz 
and cretonne, and there is a general 
tendency to keep the designs regular 
and distinctive, -whether an all-over or 
striped design is attempted. There are 
a number of the best of last season's 
designs carried over to this Spring, but 
these are all modified and improved by 
the addition of the zinc overprint, which 
lends' a charmingly softened appearance 
to the former colorings and provides that 

New tapestry cretonne in two blendings, absolutely reproducing the real 
tapestry patterns and colors, which is being largely featured for Spring 

for the coverings of couch-beds, etc. 
Bedroom chintz in new lattice design, featuring the familiar bluebird motif 

in combination with a rosebud nosegay in natural shades. . 
Netv floral design in eight colors, in which vivid grounds are contrasted 
against natural effects. This cretonne is 36 inches wide, converted in Mon- 
treal. — Draperies Shown by Courtesy of Daly and Morin of Montreal 

and Lachine. 

shadowy effect which is so desirable in 
hangings and draperies of all sorts this 
year. From all indications, the demand 
is to be entirely for shadow effects in 
all types of drapery fabric and to sup- 
ply this expected demand the manufac- 
turers are offering two definite types 
of zinc overprint, namely the stripe 1 
or poplin effect and the checked 1 finish, 
both of which are supplied in many 
different floral patterns in blues, blacks 
and greys. Greys, by the way, are ex- 
ceptionally popular in hangings, espec- 
ially when combined with touches of 
rose or blue. , 

One of the prettiest patterns of the 
coming season is an apple blossom de- 
sign, carried out in a very natural and 
life-like manner. This design, as well 
as all the others, is developed in the 
new 36 inch width which has entirely 
supplanted the 31 inch style that is 
chiefly found in imported draperies at 
present. The aforementioned apple 
blossom cretonne can be had for as little 
as 23 cents a yard, which is decidedly 
less than any imported fabric on the 

market. The price of the zinc over- 
prints is only eight cents more, or 31 
cents a yard. 

Another new departure in cretonnes 
is the tapestry cretonne just introduced. 
At two feet away, it is impossible to 
detect this cretonne from the real tap- 
estry upholstery material, so faithfully 
are the colors and designs reproduced. 
There are two distinct patterns in 'this 
tapestry cretonne, in which blue an 1 
brownish red predominate respectively. 
This particular fabric was evolved to 
meet the need existing for something 
new to replace the ubiquitous green rep, 
which seemed to be the only material 
available for covering couch beds, 
divans, and for making slip covers 
for furniture. In papular priced lines, 
this new material is certain to meet 
with a huge success, due to the fact 
that it is artistic, serviceable and in- 

Blocked Prints 

In the more expensive and more elab- 
orate drapery fabrics, block prints are 
(Continued from page 172) 

Goods Rt vi( w 



Demand for Seasonable Merchandise Creates 

Sales of Homefurnishings in January 

Cocoa Mattings and Rubber Mats in Demand — Imported Down 

Puffs in New Designs — Down-filled Cushions Are Luxurious in 

Coverings — Some of the New Spring Rugs — December Was 

Good Month For Furniture Sales. 

WITH the advent of January and its 
attendant snow storms and ice, comes 
the necessity of promoting the sale of 
door-mats of rubber or cocoa fibre as well as 
yardage mattings which are so essential for 
use on exposed steps where accidents might 
occur. A leading wholesale firm of Montreal 
is showing one of the largest stocks of these 
goods seen f r some years, including all 
widths. The 2-4 and 4-4 widths sell most 
readily and are priced this season from 60 
cents up to $1.25 while mats of the fibre 
may be obtained from 80 cents upwards. 
According to the manager of the depart- 
ment in which these goods were seen this 
month, this winter offers a good opportun- 
ity to the wide awake retailer to go after 
business on this particular line, since most 
establishments which utilize matting have 
not bought as frequently as usual and might 
be circularized with good results if the mat- 
ter was done promptly. A certain Montreal 
store has adopted the wise plan of sending 
out price lists on mattings and mats to all 
the public institutions, apartment houses, 
churches, schools, theatres and clubs where 
there is a possibilify of employing such mer- 
chandise in winter, stressing the attractive 
appearance of a well-laid matting as well as 
its valuable protection in the event of icy 
walking. If a contract department is main- 
tained in conjunction with the store, a price 
might be also quoted for labor in connection 
with the laying of the matting. 

Rubber Door Mats 

The vogue for rubber mats, both solid 
and perforated in oval and oblong styles is 
almost as great as for the matting variety, 
the former being considered more sanitary 
as well as giving longer wear. Rubbermats 
come in five sizes and patterns. These are 
especially good for private houses and should 
be extensively featured after Christmas in 
preparation for the real Winter months. 

Imported Down Puffs Received 

A large shipment of imported down puffs 
has just been received by a leading Montreal 
wholesaler, which is probably the finest range 
yet seen on this side of the Atlantic. The 
puffs are made of a very fine quality of 
French silk damask and are filled with the 
best quality of down. They come in a large 
range of colors, including black, wine, old 
gold, dull blue, rust, etc. 

These puffs are different in appearance 
from ordinary styles as they are constructed 
with a single wide French panel in the centre, 
made of a contrasting fabric and design. 
For example, a black silk damask puff was 
centred by a wonderful panel of natural roses 
so harmoniously blended as to coloring as to 
resemble a superb brocade such as is used 
for evening gowns. Another sand colored 
puff was left quite plain, but the panel sec- 
tion was outlined in stitchery. An old-gold 

puff was centred by a panel in conventional 
floral pattern in which the tones of rose, blue 
and brown predominated. Possibly the 
black puffs provided the most striking note 
of novelty and richness. 

Prices on these beautiful bed coverings 
ranged upwards from $27.75 each and foe- 
s' des the damask they were shown in such 
materials as plain pure silk, satin and sateen. 

Cushions De Luxe 

Next in importance to the puffs was the 
d'splay of down-filled cushions all ready for 
use, featuring all the newest ideas in decora- 
tive art. There were circular, oblong, tubu- 
lar and square pillows of really generous 
dimensions, each one so resilient and light as 
to resemble thistledown in weight. 

The covers of these lovely accessories 
were delightfully appropriate, being made of 
different silks in such shades as navy blue, 
black, blue shot red, and black shot blue, 
etc. The bolster shaped pillows showed an 
effective panel of antique silver or gold tin- 
sel brocade and the ends were fastened to- 
gether with long hanging tassels. The cir- 
cular cushions were covered in shirred and 
puffed effects with corded seams. 

Exceptional Demand for Blankets 

The demand for blankets seems inexhaus- 
tible this season, stated a leading whole- 
saler to Dry Goods Review and it is many a 
year since the demand reached such propor- 
tions as it has done this Autumn. It appears 
as though every housewife had awakened to 
the wonderful opportunity existing for her 
to replenish her household stocks in blankets 
and consequently the blanket sales held in 
Montreal have been more successful than 
ever before. 

According to advice from the wholesale 
trade, practically all the Spring designs in 
carpets and rugs will show entirely new pat- 
terns for the reason that the mills have not 
been able to feature new designs during the 
past four or five years but are now working 
on radically new ideas and colors. One lead- 
ing wholesale house has just sent out a letter 
to its customers advising that all old pat- 
terns have been cleared from stock in order 
that the firm might be in a position to show 
an entirely new range of design, comprising 
the very latest and most artistic designs and 
co'orings which are being shown by the 
various mills. This particular house does not 
confine itself to any one or two mills but 
makes its selection of designs and colors 
from practically every mill, which is a val- 
uable asset to the retailer who does not wish 
to confine his range to a few individual lines. 

Labor Savers Sell Fast 

Despite the fact that the public demands 
one hundred cents worth of value for its 
dollar and is inclined to show preference for 
goods which cost as little as possible, it is 

stated that all the different household labor 
savers are selling better than ever before. 
Such articles as carpet sweepers, vacuums, 
washers and ironers are enjoying an unpre- 
cedented demand as Christmas gifts as well 
as real necessities for the woman who is 
doing without a maid. Owing to the drop in 
the price of furniture of all kinds, furniture 
sales have been the order of the day in many 
localities and according to one store inter- 
viewed this month, practically every article 
of furniture sold in December was a Christ- 
mas gift which was to be delivered to the re- 
cipient on Christmas Eve. This idea of giv- 
ing furniture as gifts has never been as gener- 
al as during December and it is said that the 
smaller artic'es such as bridge tables, lamps, 
book cases, telephone stands and shirt- 
waist boxes proved to be the most success- 
ful sellers. It is just possible that the "De- 
cember Furniture Sale" will become an 
annual feature in many large stores owing 
to the success recorded. 


Hon. W. E. Foster, Premier of New 
Brunswick and president of Vassie & Co. 
Ltd. of St. John, N. B. has the following to 
say with regard to the outlook in the Dry 
Goods trade :- 

"I can say that, on the whole, conditions 
in dry goods show marked improvement. 
During 1921 and the late fall of 1920 retail 
merchants restricted their purchases to 
practically essential needs; wholesalers 
held their's down to almost the same degree, 
and manufacturers refused to make up 
goods except when they had orders for them. 
Even with the small 'consumer' buying 
that went on throughout the year these 
policies resulted in a great reduction of the 
quantity of goods on the market, and to-day 
dry goods stocks are much below the average . 

"One of the healthiest signs of the situa- 
tion is the arrival of more stabilized prices. 
Textiles and clothing of all sorts were among 
the sufferers from price slumps during the 
period just past — in fact their prices fell in 
greater ratio than most other commodities. 
Lately we have had a spectacular rise in the 
prices of raw cotton, which had a slight re- 
action, but leaves to-day's price some forty 
per cent, above the low of last year. Raw- 
silk has advanced somewhat, and so has flax. 
These advances in raw materials have been 
or shortly will be, reflected by changes in 
price of the manufactured goods of which 
they are component parts. Woolens, par- 
ticularly the higher qualities, and hemp have 
had a fluctuating market for some time, w hich 
has not resulted that the period cf violent 
price recessions such as commenced in the 
(Continued on page 175) 



Dry Goods Review 

Wide Range of Curtains for Spring 

Many New Designs Will Be Shown By Montreal Houses — Ap- 
propriate Selections Of House Furnishings Should Not Depend 
On Style But Correctness — Some New Spring Designs Describ- 
ed—How To Take Care Of Curtains 

AN EXPERT in novelty curtain de- 
signing- commented on the tenden- 
cy noticeable nowadays to demand 
style in window draperies. "There 
should be no such thing as style in 
house furnishings," he explained, "be- 
cause it should !be understood that the 
selection of curtains, tflooi, coverings 
and hangings depends altogether upon 
the architecture of the house in question, 
its individual type and personality, not 
upon the mere whim of a fashionable 
faddist. I overheard a woman say the 
other day that she was glad that frilled 
curtains 'were coming hack into style' 
as they suited her room. I asked her 
what kind she had been using and she 
said that she had bought plain Bungalow 
net curtains as everybody seemed to be 
usinlg then*. This woman seemed bliss- 
fully unaware of the fact that Bunga- 
low net curtains were not in the least 
suited to her dainty period room, with 
its French furniture and its exquisite 
old world atmosphere. Why, the very 
thought of 'bungalows and chateaux 
should be sufficient to prove that what 
is suitable to one type of dwelling is 
not necessarily correct for the other. 
Consequently, I pointed out to this 
would-be correct lady, that she had 
better consult competent authority as 
to what type of curtains her home called 
for, and then stick to this style for all 

The majority of people make the error 
of confusing correctness with style in 
the matter of house furnishings, and 
they are encouraged by many salesper- 
sons in this error, because the latter 
are apt to clinch their sales arguments 
with the words, "This is the newest 
thing we have," or "This is the kind 
of curtain the Biltmore Hotel is using 
in its bridal suite." There are many 
people to whom such a recommendation 
is irresistible, despite its really ridiculous 
character, and to these people it should 
be explained that there is no such thing 
as style in the meaning of fashion, in 
the choice of curtains. Just as really 
smart women know that it is foolish to 
follow the dictates of the mode in either 
millinery or clothing slavishly, without 
regard to becomingness, so the house 
decorator recognizes that there are fund- 
amental laws of balance, color, propor- 
tion, etc., to observe in the selection of 
those furnishings which shall enhance 
and bring out all the latent charm and 
character of the home. 

Spring Ranges To Be Very Varied 

This introduction was considered nec- 
es ary by the expert in curtain design- 

ing for the reason that during the com- 
ing season the range of curtains offered 
by the best firms will be more compre- 
hensive and varied than ever before. It 
will be a season when quality in both 
fabrics and workmanship will be para- 
mount, and there will be many radically 
new designs and styles to select from, 
necessitating discriminating judgment 
and a knowledge cf demand in different 
parts of the country. Architects say that 
the new houses under construction have 
plenty of windows but of different sizes 
according to the needs of the various 
rooms. Thus the matter of curtains is 
rendered more difficult than it would be 
if windows were uniform as they used 
to be. There is no need, however, to 
confine the purchase of curtains to the 
yardage nets and marquisettes for the 
majority of homes can be successfully 
fitted with panel curtains which are 
supplied in a wide variety of widths 
and lengths and in all types of design, 
from the ultra elaborate lacy and for- 
mal type to the plain and simple panel- 
ling suitable for dens or living rooms. 
This panelling is now shown for Spring 
in novelty effects of voile, marquisette 

and scrim, made exactly like the con- 
ventional novelty curtain but combining 
the extra advantage of the yardage nets. 
Many customers have asked for a really 
high class curtain to be developed in 
this manner and thus the idea has taken 
concrete expression for Spring 1922. 

One particularly striking example of 
novelty curtain panelling for Spring 
1922 was shown to Dry Goods Review 
this month. The entire lower half was 
composed of Cluny lace in the form of 
vertical bands of insertion connected by 
inset filet motifs and circular medallions 
of Swiss lace on voile. Right through 
the centre of the curtain ran a double 
row of fine lace joined together by a 
thread, which can be cut apart without 
in the least damaging the edge of the 
curtain, if a narrower width of panel is 
wanted. In the same way any number 
of sections can be supplied, joined by 
the invisible thread. The upper part of 
this panel is of voile with hemstitched 
inner hems and inset with large Point de 
Venise medallions, one on either side. 
The bottom edge is trimmed with rich 
Cluny lace in a Van, Dyke pattern. 

Another style of novelty panelling 
was developed in ecru scrim combined 
with heavy crocheted filet lace in the 
popular rose design. This also was con- 
structed with the centre adjoining thread 
and although more simple and inexpen- 
sive in character has a very rich appear- 
ance. The lower part of this curtain 
is entirely of lace, which looks extremely 
effective against the glass of the win- 

Unusual Lace As Trimming 

The newest novelty curtains of the 
regular type are featuring unusual laces 
this Spring, especially in patterns sug- 
gested by the cretonnes that are com- 
monly used as draperies with them. A 
very effective simple curtain is made of 
scrim with a four inch border effect of 
Cluny lace with a scalloped edge. The 
rounded part, however, is set on a cur- 
tain material with a zig-zag machine 
and the outer edge is straight, being 
finished with narrow Cluny. The effect 
of the rounded finish is unusual and is 
sure to be popular for the average home. 

Another novel treatment in novelty 
curtains shows a dado effect of fine filet 
in combination with marquisette, the 
dado being carried right up on one side 
to the top and the whole edged with fine 

Point d'Esprit Is Charming 

Exquisitely dainty sheer point d'esprit 
ruffled curtains are now ready for 
(Continued on page 198) 

Dry Goods Review 



Retailers are Beginning to 

Place Their Orders Direct 

Representative of British Firm Says System is 

Better for Both the Manufacturer's Agent and the 

Retailer — Saves Time and Money — Some New 

Spring Materials 

firm in this country, says that 
there is an increasing tendency on 
the part of our retailers to order direct 
from the manufacturer. By this he 
means, placing an order with the agent, 
who forwards it to the manufacturer 
and, with this, his part in the transac- 
tion is done. The old method, which is 
still used by many merchants, is to buy 
from the representative who finances 
the merchandise in his own name. The 
direct method has many advantages for 
both agent and merchant, claimed for it. 
The representative receives the same 
commission as in the old way and does 
not have to finance a heavy load of 
goods, until such time as the retailer 
takes it off his hands. Moreover, there 
is no waiting for payment from the mer- 
chant after the goods are delivered. It 
gives the representative a better idea of 
what the trad© want and there is no un- 
saleable merchandise on his hands. To 
the retailer it often means a great sav- 
ing of time and certainly a saving in 
money for the following reason: in buy- 
ing direct he pays duty on the gold 
value of the pound and has the advant- 
age of the rate of exchange ruling at 
the time of purchase. He still has the 
privilege of ordering from the samples 
shown by the representative. 

The same agent informs Dry Goods 
Review, that he has already sold more 
merchandise for Spring both by direct 
and indirect methods, than ever before 
in the history of his business. The trade 
are taking homefurnishing lines more 
seriously than they have for a long 
time. In fact, profit's up to December 31, 
1921, show a twenty-five per cent, in- 
crease over 1919, which after all, is the 
best year to compare business with. 

There is a great desire on the part of 
large hotels in this country and in the 
United States, to do a real housecleaning 
this Spring. Huge orders are booked for 
new curtain and upholstering materials. 
Wide madras and grenadine are most in 
demand for the better class of window 
curtains. Seventy-two inches is the pop- 
ular width and spots are asked for in 
most of the materials. These curtains 
are draped on a rod, each breadth cover- 
ing the entire width of the window as 
shown in the accompanying illustration. 
1922 Will Favor Colored Madras 

One of the best drapery fabrics for 
this season and in fact for next Fall, 
will be black and colored madras. Since 
the war, rapid progress has been made 
in the production of Scotch madras and 
many favorable comments are made as 
to the beauty and texture of this fabric. 

The new madras yardage is from 36 to 
50 inches wide. It is woven with Egyp- 
tian yarn, some of all mercerized and 
others of a combination of silk and mer- 
cerized yarn. The design and coloring of 
this material lends a beauty of tone 
which harmonizes with present day re- 
quirements in household decoration. One 
of the best features of madras is that 
it is adaptable to almost any window, 
for valances, portiere curtains, and over- 
drapes as well as for lamp-shade cover- 
ings and cushions. The colors are said to 
be fast and the wearing quality good. 


(Continued on page 175) 

easily leading for Spring, by reason of 
their bold designs and brilliant colors. 
Montreal manufacturers are now show- 
ing block prints in as many as four 
ground colors and say that mustard 
outsells all other colors in popular favor. 
There is a striking new range of hand 
blocked print draperies now being shown 
to the trade although the goods in 
question will arrive from France this 
month. These are featured in enormous 
but very gorgeous patterns in which a 
parrot is usually found among the usual 
tropical foliage, combining the richest 
and deepest tones against a background 
of vivid contrast. This range can be 
obtained for as low a price as 95 cents 
a yard because an enterprising Canadian 
firm has secured the exclusive services 
of a French mill in putting out this 
particular line, hence the quality and 
worikimanship are of the best while 
prices are lower than ever quoted. 

Among the heavier and more formal 
draperies, the greatest demand contin- 
ues for velours in which a very wide 
color range is now offered. During the 
past year an extraordinary demand was 
experienced for burnt orange, due to the 
fact that a leading Montreal theatre used 
it exclusively for its sumptuous hang- 
ings and during the Fall season many 
inquiries were received for the same 
shade, as the public evidently admired 
it and decided to follow this same shade 
in their color schemes in house decora- 
tion. There are some good rose and 
green shades as well as taupe and blues 
offered, and it is said that apart from 
the burnt orange just mentioned, blue 
has been the greatest seller. Printed 
velours in a heavier quality are offered 
for upholstery purposes in good shades 
to blend with woods of furniture. 

In order to supply the long felt want 

for a really sun-fast casement cloth 
which would keep its original rich color 
in this climate, a leading Montreal man- 
ufacturer has just introduced a range of 
such fabrics including seven different 
colors. The quality of these sunifast 
materials is more silky and supple than 
is usually associated with these goods, 
and they can therefore be depended upon 
to drape perfectly and adapt themselves 
to any type of under-curtain. 

Canadian made tapestries of the bet- 
ter kinds are now being shown in many 
new ranges. The quality of these goods 
has gone ahead steadily from year to 
year and is now if anything superior to 
imported goods in durability, price and 
design. Those tapestries which feature 
a mercerized filling are particularly 
attractive in appearance, while others 
finished with a silk binder are richer 
and more heavily embossed in appear- 
ance, the pattern standing out with 
greater effect. Prices on these goods, 
which are uniformly 50 inches in width, 
remain at their very moderate level 
around $2.25 a yard, and though pro- 
duction of all these tapestries is slow, 
due to the fact that looms cannot turn 
out more than 120 yards a week, yet 
the demand continues unabated from the 
furniture trade. 

New Use For Cretonnes 

The manufacturers of cretonnes point 
out that the coming Spring is going to 
witness a tremendous demand for these 
gay materials to be used for tub frocks 
and neckwear, and already the dress 
manufacturers are picking up all the 
small, neat designs in rose, blue and 
lavender which they intend to put out 
in the form of one piece wash dresses 
shortly. The retail trade is advised to 
keep its stocks of these materials well 
assorted as once these dresses are 
shown, there will be many women who 
will want to copy them at home and 
will seek the right materials in the 
drapery department. 


(Continued from page 173) 
Fail of 1920 has passed and that the mer- 
chant today is safe in purchasing his normal 
requirements in dry goods and allied lines. 
I would not advise speculation, but the last 
year, with its great shortages in some staple 
lines has shown the danger of underbuying 
and I think that the time has come when 
moie normal purchases should be made." 

Pearl embroidery on the much-talked of 
periwinkle blue is being shown in New York 
for early spring gowns. Cornflower blue 
is also very good especially in crepe. A 
Canadian woman who has just returned says 
that long evening gowns are becoming more 
and more evident. Very often these are a 
little shorter at the front because of the 
draping at the waist. Softly draped chiffon 
frocks are very good for young girls and 
white is gaining in favor. 


> » ' >> > *, 


/>,•// Goods Review 

Wetter Service 

Our many Customers throughout the 
Country ate expecting great things 
from us for the Year 1922. 

Last Year was one of the best in our 
history, and to justify the confidence 
placed in us, we must offer for the 
Season now opening, better Merchan- 
dise and better Service than ever be- 

Samples coming to hand daily include : 
fancy in great variety, loose and boxed. 

McLINTOCK'S Unrivalled Ventilated Down Quilts. 

JOHN BROWN & SON, LIMITED, Madras Muslins. 

CURTAINING S by the yard and by the pair in great 
variety, including Nets, Scrims, Marquisettes, Cre- 
tonnes, etc. 

Call at our Warehouse when in the City. 

"YoursfFor Bigger And Better Things" 

Prime & Rankin Limited 

Weekday Cross, 
Nottingham, Eng. 

74 York St., 

' f //, ,„. 

I'll! i:i>i>>i,,„mr, 

I Ul/lllirill/lirm >I1J1II1,J nu. !,,,„, ,,.„„> ,■:,; „ ■;■■■■■ 

f)r;i Goods Review 



Dominion Linoleums 

Are Stocked by Your Jobber 
He will Supply You Promptly 

IT is a real advantage to have your source of supply close at hand. 
When checking over your needs in linoleum, oilcloth, linoleum and 
oilcloth rugs you can always be sure of obtaining stock quickly. 

Be prepared for the early buyers by going over your stock now. 
Customers will come to you for their needs, and many will come this 
year earlier than usual. Make sure of their business by having 
an array from which they can select what they want. Every merchant 
who carries a big selection will obtain more orders. 

oilcloth, linoleum and oilcloth rugs are fast replacing worn-out carpets 
and rugs in many Canadian homes. They have advantages with which 
every merchant is familiar, and housewives are being made acquainted 
with these good points through our extensive advertising. Sell the 
customer early — while in buying mood. 

Our new 64-page Pattern Book for 1922 

will be in the mails this month. If you do 

not receive a copy write us direct. 

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co. 




Dry Gooch Review 

No. 4284 

The Cretonne House of Canada 

When we assumed the title of "the cretonne house of 
Canada," it was no exaggeration, as the trade throughout 
Canada have discovered. 

The cretonnes illustrated on this and the opposite page 
are all of our own converting and are only a few patterns 
picked at random from our Spring range. 

Many of these lines are now in stock, and others in pro- 
cess of printing, so that we will he in a position to make 
immediate delivery on February 1st. 

Our range of drapery and upholstery materials is more 
complete than ever before and we would bespeak for our 
representative, an opportunity of showing you our com- 
plete line. 

Ontario merchants should not overlook vi.-itin<j; our per- 
manent showroom in Toronto at Room 434, Foy Bldg., 
32 Front St., West, in charge of Mr. J. R. Evans. 

Daly & Morin, Limited 

Manufacturers and Converters 

Lachine, Montreal 

No. 4279 

No. 4212 

No. 4278 

Dnj Goods Review 



M ;fl* 


*'V_ _ „ 


t* ! 



\ r « 


We supply 
for the 


/,*> ' 

<*( *i 

Leadership L in Drapery and Upholstery Goods 

The spirit of this organization is leadership and the merchant 
who maintains a close relationship with the House of Daly and 
Morin, Limited, shares alike in the benefits of that leadership 
as it has always been our policy to anticipate the needs of our 
customers and be aggressive enough, and progressive enough to 
have the first offerings of new designs, new styles and new 

- Or- 

Daly & Morin, Limited 

Manufacturers and Converters 

Lachine, Montreal 

%/J.- VTT 






Dri/ Goo'h /.'< • 


\\T E ARE pleased to announce to the trade that we have been appointed 
™ sole CANADIAN representative for the new T. & S. Flat Rod. Just a 
glance at this rod with its refinement of design and finish and its simple but 
effective bracket will convince you of the possibility of combining in one rod 
the following features: 

Simplicity, Perfection in Finish, Absolute Rigidity and Adjustability to any 

Finish: Colonial Dull Brass. 

Packing: Each Rod With Fixtures Packed in Its Own Attractive Individual 


Extensions, 28 inches to 48 inches or 36 inches to 63 inches. 
Projections, 1% inches, 2% inches, or 3% inches. 

Extensions, 28 inches to 48 inches or 36 inches to 63 inches. 
Projections, 1% inches x 2% inches or 2% inches by 3 J /4 inches. 


A real guarantee which is not a mere "talking point" but an honest promise by the 
manufacturers to make good, is printed on the outside of each carton. 

Window Shades, Draperies, Novelty Curtains, Drapery and Upholstery Hardware. 




Dry Goods R 




CMijC: •»•••» 

Lace Goods Company, Limited 


I V i 


Curtain Nets and Draperies 

For Your Spring 1922 


We are specially well equipped to supply 
your needs in these lines: — 
CURTAIN NETS of that soft drapy nature 
in an immense range of qualities from the 
lowest to the high class filet qualities with 
bird and other dainty designs. 
the wanted styles. 

CRETONNES and SHADOW CLOTHS, a good variety 
of new patterns to select from — at popular prices. 

POPLINS in that highly mercerized quality — and the clear.,„ 
round cord kind. 

We Sell Sundour Fabrics 

Our travellers are now out with 

.Jthese lines — see them when they call 

I — or if you are in the City call on us. 

We Specialize in 

Lac s ana 

Window Draperies 

i \ I 



i = : 

■ k * 

i = i 




Fifth Floor 
79 Wellington St. West 








Dry Goods Review 

Prepare now for Spring Sales 

Be ready with a well-stocked Drapery Department. Your best 
customers will appreciate having a wide range of artistic and qual- 
ity goods to choose from. 

You will find the selection of distinctive drapings an easy matter 
in our show rooms, for our stock has been most carefully chosen at 
lowest prices. 

In Stock 

Nottingham Curtains 
Shadow Cloths 
Aurora Casement Cloth 
Mercerized Poplins 
White and Ecru Madras 

Novelty Curtains 

Bungalow Nets 
Self Color Madras 
Mixed Color Madras 


In the Heart of the 
Dry Goods District 

50" Imperial Velours --All wanted shades. 
Spot Muslins and Marquisettes, plain and frilled. 

JOHN KING & SONS, Hollands- White, Cream & Ivy 

Wm. Strang & Son 
Glasgow, Scotland 


Hood, Morton & Co. 
Newmilns, Scotland 

Stirling-Auld & Co. 
Darvel, Scotland 



Established 31 Years 

80 Bay St. :: Toronto 

Why Not Have a Double 
Check on all Sales? 

All kinds of Wire Cash and Parcel 
Carriers and Pneumatic Tubes- 

Gipe-Hazard Store Service 
Co., Limited 

113 Sumach St., Toronto, Ont. 

The merits of our Cash Carrier System should warrant your careful con- 
sideration. We believe tihey will, and too, that you will agree with us 
after making an examination of them. As a beginning- we would sug- 
gest that you send for our illustrated catalogue which shows all kinds 
of wire carriers for conveying cash, or cash and parcels. It will be better 
for you to be prepared at this time when the Season is right, than it will 
to be sorry after the rush of Spring trade has set in. Then why not 
be prepared ? 




Cfjatillon, jWoulp, &oustfel et (Lit. <france> 


Crepes, Muslins, Satins, Damasks, Brocades, Fancies 

Canadian Representative: M. AUBIN 46 St. Alexander St., Montreal 




When Answering Adver- 
tisements Kindly Mention 
this Paper 

Dry Goods Review 












Your Customers' Wishes Will Be Fully Met By The HAUGH RANGE 

The J. A. Haugh Mfg. Co., Ltd. 


Manufacturers of Trousers, Overalls, the famous 
"Arm & Hammer Brand" Shirts — Kiddies' Garments 

472-474 Bathurst Street, 


At College Street 



Dry Goods Revieio 

Ready To Wear - - - Spring 1922 



Suits and Coats 



Blouses and Skirts 

PRING 1922 calls for fabrics which express 
exquisite refinement. The woollens are 
softer and capable of more unusual treat- 
ment, such, for instance, as the finer Poiret 
twills and superfine tricotines which are 
the foundation of the demure little cape- 
coats. For sports, fashion swings quite the 
other way, and the rougher and more prac- 
tical the fabric, the more popular it be- 
comes. Thus, tweeds and homespun have 
come into their own once more, and certain 
jerseys will again lead in popularity for 
sports wear. Silks affect the crepy weaves 
and crepe de chine, Canton and Oriental 
variations, such as Roshanara, Morocain, 
etc., are still in the lead, although for 
tailored or sports wear the newer "sponge" weaves known 
by such various names as Creponge, Krepeknit or Chin- 
chilla are much newer. For evening or formal gowns, 
Paris has sent out wonderful crepes with a brocaded im- 
pression, while for all round service, the ever perennial 
favorite, taffeta, reappears as crisp and serviceable as 

The Colors 

So far as Montreal is concerned there is a decided 
inclination on the part of the manufacturers to play safe 
as regards the use of colors. In suits and coats of the 
more formal type, navy blue predominates almost exclu- 
sively. But when it concerns the all important subject 
of sports wear, much more latitude is allowable. Here 
we find colorful homespuns and polo cloths employed, or 
else heather mixtures in soft shaggy tweeds, or again a 
few gaily colored jersey cloths for the practical little 
every day suit. The new periwinkle blue is especially 
good, dull rose, mauve or pastel green also being shown. 
Sand, deer or fawn are prominent for strictly tailored 
sports coats, belted and leather buttoned. 

Frocks of the more tailored type adhere to navy blue 
for their major portions, relying upon a novel touch of 
trimming for their individuality. But afternoon frocks 
yet show a tendency to dark colors relieved by brilliant 
touches of color, such as canna, French blue, sealing wax 
red and orange. It is thought, however, that by April 
these more sombre shades will be replaced by colors more 
appropriate to the season. Where blouses are concerned, 
it is to be an "all white" Spring, for the majority of 
tailored blouses are designed on the hand-made washable 
variety, which is so practical with both tailored and dressy 
garments. Where the more elaborate blouse is worn, suit 
shades will be adhered to in the majority of cases, with a 
few very brilliant novelties for youthful figures. 

The Silhouette 

There is little change as yet in the feminine silhouette 
as evidenced by the premier showings of garments for 
Spring 1922 in the Montreal show-rooms. Despite the 
fact that Paris has decreed that skirts shall be longer, 
Canadian designers have been reluctant to add many 
inches all of a sudden, preferring to bring about the new 
style gradually and in the natural course of events. Thus 
the willowy and attenuated figures which grace the fash- 
ion magazines from Paris will not be duplicated on this 
side of the water for many months, and the utmost con- 
cession made is the addition of a few inches in length 

and a due observance of the laws of proportion which 
require that the width be decreased, while the waist line 
may be lowered still more. All this, by the way, is ap- 
plicable to frocks, for where the suit is concerned, there 
is no such thing as a definite silhouette at all, so far 
as the Canadian woman is concerned. 

If you are young and slim and feminine, the youthful 
little cape suit is yours and yours only. If you are more 
mature there is a wide variety of severely tailored suits 
of the type termed "classic" in Paris. If you desire to be 
prepared for the week-end in the country you may select 
from a wide range of sportsmanlike homespuns in true 
English design, or again you may affect the trim jersey 
suit which became firmly established last season. And 
last, but most decidedly the most important point, you 
may wear knickers developed in practically any material 
you like, with a smartly tailored coat and skirt to match 
or in contrast. 

So with a bewilderingly wide range of styles to select 
from, who shall say what the feminine figure should look 
like? Suffice it to say that Miladi will be permitted to 
express her own individuality as she has never before 
been given opportunity to do, and whether she is as young 
as the Spring itself or silvery haired, she may discover 
the wherewithal to make herself more beautiful. In a 
word, however, the mode expresses slenderness, but it is 
not merciless to those who are no longer slim. The Spring 
silhouette may be easily achieved because it is natural 
and unrestrained. 

Suits and Coats 

Montreal makers are showing a considerable number 
of suits combining the sleeveless frock designed on simple 
lines, with a jaunty little box coat about 27 inches in 
depth. The short box coat more often features a Raglan 
effect in its sleeves which flare at the cuff after the 
Japanese fashion, and its collar is often on the Peter 
Pan style, which may be a twin button fastening, or the 
coat may not button at all because the plain little dress 
underneath matches exactly. There are generally two 
small slashed pockets in the skirt and a string belt at the 
normal waist line. 

The "Butterfly" cape-coat is a particularly charming 
variation on the box coat theme. This is often developed 
in soft Poiret twill in hip length, the sleeves being simu- 
lated by a stitch taken underneath each side and weighted 
down with tassels of heavy black silk. 

Mannish tailored suits of tricotine are trimmed spar- 
ingly with black military braid or the edges are bound 
with the same. The long shawl collar is preferred. In 
less severe types of coat, considerable Swiss embroidery 
is employed, but this kind of elaboration is usually found 
only in the less expensive models. 

Knicker suits are being featured in conformity with 
the demand for such outfits for all kinds of sports, but in 
view of the fact that the average woman prefers to be 
conservative in town, *o matter what she may affect in 
the country, the makers are providing these outfits with 
a plain skirt to match, which makes them a sensible and 
practical proposition. Although they are most commonly 
found developed in rough tweeds trimmed with real 
leather buttons on the skirt front and coat, yet there are 
a few developed in heavy velours in the deer shades or 
contrasts with white which are particularly smart for 
riding. The knickers are designed to button on each hip 

Dry Goods Revuw 



and are provided with convenient pockets on either side 
of the front. The knees are finished with buttoned cuffs. 

There are many charming and unusual models in sepa- 
rate coats for early Spring wear. A leading Montreal 
designer whose coats are always accorded the highest 
praise, is showing two completely different ranges. 
There are several stunning full length wrap coats of fine 
navy blue tricotine, some of which have a turn-back front 
on the tuxedo design, finished with a deep round collar. 
Others are veritable capes extending to the skirt hem with 
slits for the arms, and trimmed with a wonderful flying- 
panel effect of silk fringe, nearly four feet deep all round. 
This fringe resembles frayed silk ribbon on account of its 
fineness and the wraps on which it is used are distinctly 
French in appearance. Yet other long coats of navy blue 
are designed on the "blouse-over" plan, with a soft full- 
ness about the hips extending on into the sleeves. Nearly 
all are simply belted in self material and have the new, 
deep round collar which permits of different treatments. 
Linings are gay in all cases. 

Polo cloths in pastel colors and sand shades are much 
featured, strictly tailored after English patterns, with 
large patch pockets, leather buttons and notched lapels 
which convert the big collar into another style. 

Dresses For All Occasions 

Montreal designers of frocks have not as yet seen fit 
to break away from the charm of the youthful straight 
line effect which has prevailed during the past season. 
Most of the models shown this month for pre-Easter sell- 
ing are developed in the darker shades, black, navy, etc., 
but are relieved from total sombreness by the use of 
touchs of cherry color or bandings of Oriental embroidery 
or even entire sleeves of some sheer fabric in a brilliant 
flame or pearl grey tone. According to one designer the 
majority of frocks for street wear will be of supple twilled 
fabrics while those for more formal occasions will be of 
crepe weaves and taffeta. However, a new fabric has 
loomed up largely on fashion's horizon, namely, the new 
Creponge or Chinchilla weaves, which are capable of 
treatment in various manners and are shown in strictly 
tailored styles as well as in quite elaborate designs. 

There are innumerable smart models in navy tricotine 
upon which a good deal of narrow colored soutache braid 
is used to outline the edges of tunics or cuffs, etc., and 
this braid is most often of a particularly striking cherry 
shade which seems especially appropriate to Spring wear. 
Here and there are seen simple wide girdles placed low 
upon the hips after the prevailing lines, developed in 
heavy black moire ribbon, knotted at one side. But nar- 
row antique silver chain or coin girdles are shown as well 
and various fancy effects in silk cord to which a few 
gorgeously pointed beads are strung, ending in a tassel. 

Wool is another pretty trimming which is employed in 
new ways. A very straight Russian coat-dress was 
finished with a two-inch wide banding of fluffy grey wool 
round its high neck, all down the side front closing and 
round the slightly flaring cuffs. Another little "flapper" 
dress showed a narrow banding darned in grey wool all 
round its scalloped skirt hem and its round neck. 

Swiss embroidery is used on the popular priced lines 
with excellent effect since the designs are more original 
than usual. One frock of navy twill had a deep section 
nearly 25 inches deep upon the skirt done in blue cross 
stitch work, exactly like the patterns of olden time. 
Other designs were shown, equally effective, and it is 
said that as these can be done upon the fabric before it 
is made up, the cost is considerably less although the 
effect is quite as good as though it were applied after- 

Some mention is made of steel beads in trimming 
dresses, but the majority of designers who concentrate 
upon the better class trade, say that smart women are 

demanding wearing apparel which is distinctive by reason 
of extreme simplicity for both formal and informal wear. 

A few general points about frocks may be summarized 
thus. Necks generally favor the bateau or Jenny neck, 
sleeves are long and flaring, showing an inside facing of 
color contrast. Skirts hang straight with an additional 
inch or two of length in most cases, although this is not 
really general. 

A feature of the Spring season is the fact that the 
majority of suits are being made with sleeveless frocks 
instead of plain skirts. What the effect of this fashion 
will be upon the dress trade remains to be seen. 

A word relative to the new models in tub frocks and 
house dresses is not out of place since style is now a 
noticeable characteristic of these useful attributes of the 
feminine wardrobe. The coming Spring and Summer will 
see more charming little gingham, chambray, cretonne or 
muslin frocks shown than have been shown for many 
years. New pastel colorings in combination with bright 
tones in checks and plain effects while there will be sev- 
eral original ideas shown in which appliqued flowers from 
cretonne are used on plain chambrays. Eton jacket 
effects and the Bramley style will be incorporated in 
gingham, adorably youthful and becoming. 

Blouses and Skirts 

A leading Montreal blouse importer and manufacturer 
whose models are always a little ahead of the rest, 
places his faith for the Spring season in the hand tailored 
washable blouse featuring the tuxedo collar or Peter Pan 
effect and developed in sheer voiles, batistes, georgettes 
or crepe de chines. A glance around his show room 
proves conclusively that white is the one and only- shade 
to be featured. The reason for this sudden return to 
the all white tailored blouse, he says, is because women 
are going to adopt the sleeveless frocks or sports skirt 
to a tremendous extent this season and there is nothing 
which is so in keeping with either than the simple but 
immaculate blouse. The majority are made with scarcely 
any elaboration whatever but there is a good deal of 
fillet lace used and quantities of drawn work in new pat- 
terns. Eyelet work and tucks are other effective treat' 
ments on sheer fabrics. The tuxedo collar used with a 
vest effect on the front of the blouse is so universally 
becoming to the majority of women that it has become 
a standardized design needing only the individuality of 
fine handwork to give it distinction. 

Skirts which keep to simple effects promise the best 
chance of success this Spring but this does not mean 
that there is any lack of novelty in the range of fabrics. 
Although the pleated and striped sports skirt has been 
almost "done to death" of late, yet nothing quite takes 
its place in feminine favor. So the new skirts for wear 
when really warm weather arrives will feature flannels 
in attractive border effects or in fancy weaves, home- 
spuns in wonderfully lovely color effects both plain an-1 
checked, new prunella cloths with satin stripes, and 
eponge or Chinchilla materials. 

The new sports silks also will provide plenty of 
latitude for novelty. The new bold designs of satin upon 
a crepe surface will offer sufficient variety in plain 
fabrics while it is expected that color contrasts will still 
be wanted since the vogue for silk sweaters is already 
pronounced and always sets the pace for skirt fashions. 

Although the Montreal manufacturers are showing- 
knickers for the first time yet no fears are entertained 
that they will in any way affect the popularity of the 
sports skirt. In fact, all the suits in which knickers 
form a part, are supplied with a smartly cut skirt as 
well. Knickers however are the "dark horse" in both 
American and Canadian style centres, and although 
everyone professes to consider them an amusing novelty 
there is no doubt that they represent the thin edge of 
(Continued on Page 189) 



Dry Goods Review 

Spring Buying is Reported Brisk 

Manufacturers in Toronto Say Stocks Have Been Cleaned Up and 
Retailers Eager for Spring Models — Taffetas Proving Strongest 
Sellers — The New Cap Dress — Gowns to be Little Longer — Man- 
ufacturers Making Strong Bid for Blouse Business 

TORONTO manufacturers of 
women's dresses and suit's are in 
better mood regarding business 
conditions than they have been for many 
months. Though very few sent their 
travelers out before the third week of 
January, they say that orders have al- 
ready come in, some unsolicited, in 
quantities which are very encouraging. 
The retail trade seems determined to go 
after business. The buying policy of last 
year kept many of them out of financial 
difficulties, but did not net them much 
profit. The daily newspapers are now 
talking optimism, the leading journals 
are encouraging the public to buy and 
all that seems needed is a little encour- 
agement from those who carry merchan- 
dise from the maker to wearer, in order 
to get the wheels turning. 

One manufacturer declares retail 
stocks are so depleted that travelers are 
being welcomed by merchants throughout 
the country. Not in many years, has 
there been such an opportunity for the 
man who is selling to the trade. More- 
over, retailers are following the lead of 
manufacturers and depending 0.1 large 
turnovers rather than on steep prices 
in their ready-to-wear lines. The day 
when dresses can be sold in any number 
above sixty-five dollars is pas", and so 
are those which saw quantities being 
purchased at prices ranging from fifteen 
to eighteen dollars. The dresses which 
the public want are somewhere between 
twenty-five and forty-five dollars. This 
is a healthy condition for the ready-to- 
wear business, because it indicates a 
recovery from the buy-as-cheap-as-you- 
can policy which inspired fear in all and 
very little tendency toward the extrav- 
agant buying methods which preceded it 
and which were in a great part respons- 
ible for the period of depression. 

Taffeta Gowns Leading 

A tour of the manufacturing houses 
in Toronto, proves unmistakably that 
taffetas will be the best sellers t'his 
spring. They come in the class of ready- 
to-wear lines which is good but not 
extravagant. In taffeta, the color choice 
seems to be: brown, navy, black. Sim- 
plicity of style and youthful lines mark 
the collection which has come in from 
Paris and New York. There are some 
novel effects in trimming and an air 
of individuality about most of the gowns. 
Embroidery braid is used in place of the 
beading so conspicuous . on fall 

In he silk materials, canton and crepe- 
knit are strongest. Canton is shown in 
black, the blues and some are all-white. 
Both of these materials are used in the 
more exclusive models. The new Mo- 

hawk red is being introduced into the 
better gowns, in sleeves, callars and 
cuffs or trimmings. 

The semi-formal dress continues in 
favor, many of these models now being 
made with high necks and lower at the 
back — a style which was introduced with 
great eclat to New York early in the 
fall and which is said to meet with the 
approval of Canadian designers. 

Combinations of materials in frocks 
fo>* street wear are particularly interest- 
ing, colored panels, some of them set 
in the gown, are favored as means of in- 
troducing color into black faille or canton 
crepes. Sleeve treatments are somewhat 
different in the models shown. They are 
wide to a point below the elbow and then 
fastened in to fit the arm. The wide 
part is often embroidered and the lower 
part plain. 

PWk Seen More Than Blue 
Navy blue has not yet shown its 
usual spring activity. Except in the 
taffetas, navy has given way to black, 
not only in street and sports frocks but 
in dressy gowns as well. If it were not 
for the touch of color which character- 
izes nearly all of them, the display would 
he a very sombre affair. One designer 
believes that the bright shades in sports 
clothes is responsible for the demand for 
it in trimmings on all frodcs. 

Crepe de chine has been by no mean.', 
overlooked by buyers who have just re- 
turned from the metropolis. In fact, 
some of the smartest models and most 
of the all-bright gowns are of t'his ma- 
terial. There is one of green crepe de 
chine, with four plea+eH panels on the 
skirt and a touch of paisley on the 

There is a decided likinc; f .r the sailor 
knot' on many of the gowns. These have 
very often the sailor collar as well and 
even the more elaborate gowns are made 
up in this juvenile yet becom ; n»- style. 

A model for the mature type of 
woman is of grey Canton crene with 
loose flowing sleeves. Cere braid is the 
only trimming used. Rows of it half an 
inch apart cover the bodice and sleeves. 
It appears again on the skirt. Modistes 
declare that cere ribbon and braid will 
be almost as popu'ar on dresses as they 
are on the spring hats. 

Henna is by no means d'searded but 
there are no dresses of the all-henna 
shade so far. Orange, maroon, pink and 
coral are also good, th» two latter 
shades appearing often alone in the 
dinner dress types. 

Cape Dress the Newest Creation 
Of all the gowns which are brighten- 
ing the houses of import' rs an 1 manu- 
facturers these days those with the 

long cape coming several inches below 
the waist line are receiving most atten- 
tion. These are best in taffeta because 
they are designed for the girlish, trim 
figure. Some of the collars on these 
capes, which, by the way, are attached 
to the gown at the shoulders, come very 
high at the back in a modern Catherine 
de Medici style. Though originally de- 
signed for street wear, these dresses are 
made up in afternoon models as well. 
Vancouver is favoring them particular- 
ly and manufacturers are trying to keep 
them only in the better class of mater- 
ials for at least two months yet, in the 
hope tha their popularity will not spoil 
their possibilities. 

There is a tendency to add an inch or 
two to the lengths of most of the gowns. 
New York's best houses are taking the 
lead in this and Toronto designers think 
that the women on this side are about 
ready for them. The long waistline is 
adhered to most rigidly in every class 
of gown and for the matron as well as 
the miss. The bouffant hip style has 
taken hold as never before, three out of 
every four models showing the hip line 
extended with canvas. 

Porch Dresses of Gingham 
Again Miss Gingham will be the child 
of fortune in the summer frocks. Gay 
checked gingham will appear every- 
where, not only in the simple models 
but in those with tucked and ruffled 
organdie trimmings. Tissue gingham is 
probably the best because it is very cool 
for warm weather wear. Cretonne is al- 
so made up into summer dresses, the 
simple house dress and the allover apron 
be'n' r nrcbablv the most popular in this 

Will Blouses Go This Spring. 

Most certainly the manufacturers are 
doing their part to inspire an interest 
in blouses. They say that this branch 
of the ready-to-wear business must re- 
turn sooner or later and indications arc 
that this will be the season. The Ameri- 
can cities are having a rush on ths 
tailored styles and our manufacturers 
have made up some houses alone: this 
order, in the hope that with the golf- 
ing season and the first suits, women 
will buy them. In the meantime, orders 
for Toronto houses have been mostly 
for the most elaborate and expensive 
blouses. One firm is selling all the 
blouses tV, it it can turn out. These 
are usually in combinations, the panels 
at back and front being of navy, brown 
or black satin, and the sleeves, upper 
part and sash in one of the following 
shades: gold, coral, Mohawk red and 

Dry Goods Review 



Devoting Special Section to Each Class of 

Garment Makes for More Effective Appeal 

Policy Tried Out Successfully by Murphy — Gamble of Ottawa 

— Various Lines are Kept Separate and Individual Setting Given 

to Each- — The Blouse Shop — Other Features 

A READY-TO-WEAR department 
which is invested with unusual at- 
tractiveness in the opinion of the 
many women who patronize it, is that 
located in the Murph-Gamble Company's 
store in Ottawa. The peculiar atmos- 
phere which is responsible for the popu- 
larity which the department possesses 
may be attributed to the fact that the 
entire staff are specialists in the art of 
selling clothes, — from manager down; 
and second, to the equally important cir- 
cumstances that the stock carried is of 
the more exclusive type, selected for its 
individuality as well as for its novelty. 
In discussing with Dry Goods Review 
some of the features of the department 
the management pointed out the import- 
ance of specializing in the different lines 
of apparel carried. It is practically im- 
possible nowadays to merchandize high 
class ready-to-wear successfully if it is 
all displayed and sold indiscriminately in 
one section. Each class of garments re- 
quires a special setting and an atmos- 
phere of its own or its most effective 
appeal is entirely lost. 

Bearing this in mind therefore, the 
Murphy-Gamble store accents each of 
its various lines and maintains a dis- 
tinct section for evening gowns, after- 
noon frocks, apparel for large women 
and also for young girls. Blouses and 
skirts too, have their appointed section 
and yet the entire department co-ordin- 
ates into a smoothly running machine. 

Keep Various Lines Distinct 

There is no idea of segregation how- 
ever, about the different parts of the 
ready-tc-wear section. That is to say, 
no visible partitions are erected to separ- 
ate one from another. The distinctive- 
ness of each line is more a matter of 
arrangement and orderly sequence than 
of actual divisions. System, so frequent- 
disregarded in such departments, reigns 

To particularize about the various 
lines, the management have reason to 
be proud of their line of suits and wraps 
for the larger woman. The store caters" 
especially to this type and carries gar- 
ments in stock up to sizes 50 and 52. 
These garments are exceedingly well de- 
signed and finished, and although more 
costly than ordinary clothing yet are 
popular with customers, to whom the 
additional cost is no deterrent. Suffi- 
cient stock between the sizes of 40 and 
50 is carried to meet practically every 
demand for such apparel, and in the 
matter of price it is found possible to 
feature moderately low figures, on the 
basis of averaging up on the purchasing 
cost of the smaller and larger sizes. In 
order to ascertain what is a fair price, a 

certain amount of experiment is neces- 
sary, but the ideal combination of a 
moderate selling price combined with a 
normal profit may be arrived at quite 

Exceptional care is devoted to the 
selection of the types of garments des- 
tined for larger women. Colorings, sil- 
houettes, trimmings — all are studied 
afresh each season by experts, so that 
the woman of ampler proportions may 
place herself unreservedly in the hands 
of the staff and be ensured complete 

Evening Gowns 

The store likewise makes a specialty 
of evening gowns, ranging from the 
simple little dance frock for Miss De- 
butante to the elaborate toilette des- 
tined to grace some matron. Social 
events are exceedingly numerous in Ot- 
tawa especially during the winter sea- 
son, and the demand for smart gowns 
for all occasions is unlimited. The sec- 
tion devoted to the showing of dinner 
and dance frocks is well located, and is 
lighted with brilliant artificial illumina- 
tion, so necessary to the best effect of 
the dress. Close at hand are kept the 
wraps, also an important item in the 
fashionable woman's wardrobe, and a 
small table of dainty accessories — fans, 
jewellery, slipper buckles, or hair orna- 
ments, hosiery, gloves, etc., is both a 
decorative and an essential part of the 
scheme of arrangement. 

In the matter of evening frocks, it is 
found that women require to replenish 
their wardrobes fairly frequently, ow- 
ing to the wear and tear incidental to 
dancing. It is a foregone conclusion 
that a customer shall be permitted to 
try on as many gowns as she fancies, 
since she may see something which will 
bring her back again to make a sup- 
plementary purchase. 

Furs are also carried in the ready to 
wear section and are effectively display- 
ed in the best possible light at the front 
of the store beside the largest windows. 
When the sale of fur coat is made, the 
saleswoman invariably mentions the fact 
that a sports skirt and tailored shirt 
waist are the ideal combination to wear 
under a fur coat every day. The color- 
ing or pattern of the skirt affording a 
smart contrast to the sombreness of 
the peltry. 

The Blouse Shop 
To the rear of the ready to wear sec- 
tion is located the blouse department, 
in which also the same highly specializ- 
ed attention is devoted both to the selec- 
tion of stock and to the satisfaction of 
purchasers. Here also, blouses for the 
stout woman are an important feature, 

and sizes, even in the sheerest and most 
elaborate styles range as high at 4S and 
even 52 in ordinary materials. Some 
hints of more than usual value were 
gleaned from the head of this section. 
For example, the Murphy-Gamble waist 
department undertakes to fit customers 
perfectly, and makes it a point to suit 
the individual type of every woman 
even though it entails alteration to the 
blouse itself. Few stores realize how 
important it is that sleeves should fit 
well, and more particularly, that the 
length should be becoming and comfort- 
able. The fit of collars, moreover, is 
another pitfall into which the unwary 
saleslady sometimes falls. The sea- 
son there are two distinct types of 
blouse, the tailored and the dressy. The 
tailored blouse may be either of the tux- 
edo collar or the Puritan style, while the 
dressy blouse is generally of the tie- 
back, slip-over sort with a round neck- 
line unrelieved by a color contrast. 

Experience Essential in Blouse Selling 

In determining which of these types 
should be adopted by any customer, the 
saleswoman needs considerable experi- 
ence. She must be familiar with the 
various types of figure with which she 
comes in contact, so that she will be 
able to tell in advance the style of 
blouse which will be most becoming. 
The roundfaced type can wear the Puri- 
tan collar successfully, but the face must 
be young and fresh. Likewise, if a tux- 
edo collar is selected, let it be of the con- 
ventional type with narrow collar be- 
cause few women can wear the revere 
style of collar with success. This width 
across the chest should not be accentu- 
ated. Elbow sleeves should be rarely 
sold to older women and the tie-back 
blouse should be fitted on the customer 
in every case, even though she may feel 
positive that it suits her exactly. There 
are as many differences in blouses as in 
corsets, and everyone knows the neces- 
sity for expert fitting of the latter type 
of accessory. 

The saleswoman furthermore, will 
make a close study of color with respect 
to the different types of complexion 
most commonly met with among cus- 
tomers. She will not advise any color 
merely because it is "all the fashion." 
She will rather try the effect of a pale 
orchid upon a blonde girl, or a vivid jade 
for the woman of coppery locks. The 
fashionable tans or sand shades can be 
successfully sold to women who have 
plenty of color, while navy blue can be 
sold to any one provided it has collar 
and cuffs of an effective contrast such 
as tan. 

(Continued on pags 1SS) 



Dry Goods Review 

Late Styles From Old New York 

Dry Goods Review Goes Sight-Seeing — Many Novelties Brighten 
Up America's Style Centre — Things Worth Seeing And Having 

EARLY spring- gowns show a great 
number of berthas of point lace 
and other real laces. Rounded 
necklines coming to the base of the 
throat are more often seen than lower 


* * * 

Short fur coats are becoming more 
prominent than ever on fashionable 
thoroughfares. They are woim with 
separate skirts and with tailored frocks 
On Park and Fifth Avenues, there are 
women to be seen wearing beaver, rac- 
coon, Hudson seal and muskrat with 
skirts of rust color. 

* * * 

Tortoise shell bracelets are the latest 
hat ornaments. Some of them are set 
with rhinestones. The newest note in 
trimmings of all kinds is sea-shell. A 
variation of these shells ' is seen in an 
ornament which has the same color and 
effect as the shell but is actually com- 
position. It is shaped like a tiny cush- 

New York women are showing a great 
preference for pongee in the natural 
shades in their underwear this season. 
They like the tailored sets, particularly 
in vests and step-ins. One retailer, 
who does business just off Broadway 
says that two-thirds of the silk under- 
wear business is done in sets. Black 
in underwear, nighties and pajamas is 
best after the pongee shade, with hon- 
eydew. orchid, beige, blue and flesh fol- 
lowing in the order named. 

* * * 

There is a new dress on the market 
for the little girl which is said to be 
specially favored bv Fifrh Avenue de- 
signers. It consists of a dress with 
bloomers attached and is in one piece 
so that it can be slipped on and off con- 

* * * 

There are retail houses and manufac- 
turers springing up every day which 
cater only to the requirements of s'out 
women. One New York hoire sells only 
those skirts which have a waistband 
measurement of 32 to 50 inches. Most 
of these firms favor pleats, especially 
box pleats. These are usually stitche I 
down over the hips to take away the 


* * * 

One of the most interesting tenden- 
cies observed in New York these days, 
is that which favors a sports style for 
the very young child. Not only the 
junior girl is wearing rport costumes 
but the verv little one has frocks of this 

type, so popular with grown-ups. Sports 
coats and sports capes for tots from one 
to four years, made up in polo cloth and 
in the tan shades are two of the latest 
additions to the range of garments now 

Among the smartest models offered 
in the shops for women going south, is 
the red linen frock. One of these is of 
cherry red non-crushable linen in blous- 
ed effect with a collar and wide girdle 
embroidered in black and white wool and 
finished at the neck with a loose sailor 
tie of black satin. There is also a red 
linen coatdress with a deep shawl collar 
and cuffs of grey linen embroidered in 
red and white wool. Large pearl but- 
tons fasten it in front and a string sash 

of grey ties at one side . 

* * * 

Contrasting shades are the keynote of 
style in the metropolis to-day. There 
are very few costumes being made 
which are trimmed or embroidered with 
self-material. Moreover, the con rasting 
color is of a very bright shade whenever 
the costume itself is of a dark material. 

* * * 

The latest lingerie importations from 
France show a great vog-ue for drawn 
work. Inserts of moon-shaped white 
organdie are also very prominent among 

the fancy lines. 

* * * 

The revival of muffs this month is 
taken as an indication of a general re- 
turn to "hand furs" next year. The 
fact that Princess Mary has been photo- 
graphed wearing a muff will, it is believ- 
ed give an added impetus. In Paris the 
muff has appeared conspicuously at 
fashionable restaurants and theatres. 
Fifth Ave. sees one or two muffs in 
every block during the shopping hours. 
The loose wrap was largely responsible 
for the discard of these fur accessories 
but now with the tendency toward the 
fitted garments, the return of muffs 
seems certain. The tendency of muff- 
ing hands in sleeves is also passing. 

* * * 

High colors in Spanish laces promise 
to be popular for party dresses for late 
win'er and early spring. There are at 
least eleven colors in as many different 
patterns in laces of this type ready for 
the approval of Miss New York. 

* * * 

.Fur stylists declare that the industry 
must shortly be prepared to present 
some pelt to the public to take the place 
of Hudson seal, if consumer inerests in 
furs is to be maintained. New York 
furriers are inclined to favor the Chin- 

ese kid skin or kid caracul as it is to 
be known. Kid caracul is very much 
like Russian caracul. The difference, 
some s.udents of fur-bearing animals, 
dec'.are, is purely geographical. In ap- ' 
pearance, kid and caracul are quite 
alike. The leather of the Chinese kid 
is less durable than than of the caracul. 
If this fur takes as well in America as 
it has in Europe, designers are plannng 
nex„ winter a season of cara:ul coats, 

wraps and trimmings. 

* * * 

Tweeds and crepes are the favorite 
materials for street wear in New York. 
These dresses are made along straight 
lines. The tailored tweed sports frocks 
are especially attractive as they are 
shown in all the newest pastel shades 
and are made to slip over the head and 
fasten in front with silver or colored but- 
tons. Poiret twills in both chemise and 
bloused effects* are also offered for 

street wear. 

* * * 

Black taffeta will we worn by the 
young child for afternoons, Fifth Aven- 
ue shops declare. A model for a child 
of five, is embroidered all over with 
small spots in varied colors. Along the 
same lines for an older girl is a long- 
wasted black taffeta dress, wth skirt 
embroidered in orange' cherries. This 
color and material is also favored for 
the debutante's spring gown. 


(Continued from page 187) 
$50 Blouses 

Although $50. blouses are not by any 
means rare in the Murphy-Gamble ready 
to wear department, yet these too are 
carefully selected, with regard to their 
lines. Few expensive models in large 
sizes are carried all the time, but rather 
those styles which are certain to be be- 
coming to the average woman. Ex- 
tremes are not profitable in any of the 
blouse lines, nor are they popular even 
with wealthy women. A few are inter- 
esting for display purposes, but the ma- 
jority of women who care to spend a 
large amount upon a single blouse, in- 
sist that it be simple and becoming. 

The canons of good tase, by which the 
choice of all ready to wear is governed, 
dictate that becomingness to a woman's 
peculiar type shall be the perpetual 
standard followed in making any sale. 
Expense, durability, etc., are really sec- 
ondary considerations, it has been found 
in the case of ready to wear, when once 
the wearer's own personality is express- 
ed in terms of smartness and individual- 

Dry Goods Review 



Ready-to-Wear — Spring 1922 

Continued fi 

the wedge insofar as the modification of 
feminine fashion is concerned. That 
they will be bought is a certainty, pro- 
vided sufficient publicity is given them. 

Here are Some of the Fine Points of 

the Spring Fashions Briefly 


The "Jenny" neck or collarless effect 
predominates in frocks. 

The high shades will be seen in frocks 
a little later, inic'uding fuchia, mauve, 
cornflower blue and biege. 

Regular tailored coats will be 32 inch- 
es long while box styles will average 27 

The Japanese or flowing sleeve will 
be seen on both tailored and dressy 

Skirt lengths will show an additional 
inch or two but no extra fullness. 

om page 184 

Pockets are introduced on suits in var- 
ied shapes. 

The linings must be gaily colored in 
bizarre patterns for navy suits. 

Low bloused waist-lines are becoming 

Yokes are used on the back of loose 
coats to give the required "swing." 

•Buttons are used conservatively in 
all cases. 

Flat braids are extensively used. 

Prices will talk this Spring and the 
makers have recognized that simple de- 
signs, fine workmanship and e'imination 
of needless elaboration must be essen- 
tial characteristics of the Snrin- 1 - 
models. They have made a special ef- 
fort to fea'ure garments which can be 
retai'ed at a low figure, feeling that 
the moderately priced gown or suit will 
form the backbone of Spring business. 

Paris Pre-Opening Activities 

SEVERE and Fancy Suits by Moly- 
neux, Jenny, Madeleine et Madeleine, 
Bernard and Beer — Salient Style 
Tendencies from Brandt, Dreco.l, Paul 
Poiret and Alice Bernard — Black not so 
good this Season. 

Paris. — Brandt is getting away from 
the strictly tailored suit, and says he 
will give preference to the dressier type 
of suit in heavy supple silk. 

A cape developed in white crepe, veil- 
ed with whi.e lace and fringed with er- 
mine tails shows the tendency of this 
house to favor dressy styles generally. 

* * * 

At the Maison Drecol!, they are in- 
clined toward short jackets, although 
the long straight*, ones will still be 
featured, especially for tall women to 
whom this style is particularly becom- 

Popeline and ribbed fabrics have been 
selected as the leading materials for 
tailor-mades, and for color, the beige 
shades are expected to be a dominant 
note, and also a greenish beige which 
is called in French, by this house "Oeuf- 
de-Cane," and which will be featured 
principally in the covert coat fabrics. 

Navy blue is also mentioned here. 
Some white woollen tailor-mades are be- 
ing prepared by the Maison Drecoll, a'- 
so some fancy ones, particularly in 
Scotch plaid designs. 

* * * 

Paul Poiret is showing the tendency 
that he intends featuring for spring in 
a few sports models which have straight 
skirts, rather short and wide. 

In one instance, it is of white wool 
striped in green and yellow with solid 
cloth of green duvetyn. 

The fabrics used for these sports cos- 
tumes include broad cloth, heavy wool- 
'en, duvetyn, agnella, etc., and one of 

the favorite colors is red, in which color 
is a fancy little jacket in toile cire, 
trimmed with gray fur and accompanied 
by a skirt of gray broadcloth. 

Alice Bernard, comments upon ex- 
tremely softly draped suits in reps, 
serge and crepe morocain, mostly in the 
darker shades, to be brightened by a 
little embroidery. 

Many of her suits wi'l be three-piece 
affairs, with the top of the dress in 
sheerer fabrics. 

* * * 

Madame Jenny comments favorably 
on the dressier types of suits with 
youthful, short paletot or medium 
length jacket, belted at low waistline, 
and without pockets. 

In fabrics, navy bure is a favorite 
wit'h her, because it is both heavy and 
supple at the same time. 

* * * 

Madeleine et Madeleine say that they 
will show both the severe and fancy 
types; the jackets will be slightly fit- 
ted, and accompanied either by simple 
skirts or by an entire dress, the top of 
which i s of crepe georgette. 

Soft broadcloth and light velour de 
laine are offered to start the season. 

Bernard & Co., speaking of next 
Spring tendencies for suits, say that 
they will favor the supple and fancy 
type of suit rather than the strictly 
tailored, and believe in a good season 
for that type of suits. 

They will make the jacket three-quart- 
er length, with the waist placed low, 
the skirt about the same length as that 
of the present Winter season. Sleeves 
will remain rather wide at bottom, and 

New Dutch Romper for boys and girls 
from two to six years. Made in cham- 
bray and pique. These are daintily trim- 
med in contrasting colors of chambray 
with hand-embroidered design of ani- 
mals in front. Shown by Canadian Per- 
fect Garment Co., Toronto. 

belts will come back to favor, it is ex- 

As to colors, the predictions are 
about the same as in most other houses, 
that is, beige in its different shades, in- 
cluding what is called here covert 
shades, and also some mixtures in reps 
and tricotine. 
— From Women's Wear, New York. 

A most enjoyable evening was spent 
by the management and staff at the first 
annual banquet of the J. Bouideau and 
Son, Limited, wholesale furriers, he'd at 
the Canadian Club. 

The full staff and directorate vied 
with each other in celebrating a most 
successful year's business. 

The various toasts were received with 
an enthusiasm that testified to the. cordi- 
al relations existing between the man- 
agement and the staff. 


C. B. Lockhart, Kentville, N. S. 

Mr. C. B. Lockhart. of Kentville, N. S. 
has added new "Dresden' silent salesmen 
to the equipment installed a few months 
ago. These cases in rich Vi-cut Oak were 
supplied by Kent-McCIain Limited. (To- 
ronto Show Case Company!. 



Dry ifoods Review 

P. G. Blatchly 
Western Ontario 

F. L. Couch 
Western Ontario 

W. R. McArthur 
Western Ontario 

D. W. Mcintosh 
Sales Manag-er 

H. H. Tillman 

J. E. Labrosse 

W. E. Campbell 


We again present herewith to the Mer- 
chants of Canada our sales force, mem- 
bers of which called on you last year. 
These same men are now on their respec- 
tive territories and will endeavor to main- 
tain that important link between our 
customers and this house by seeing that 
you are supplied with the right merchan- 
dise, at the right price. This in turn spells 
SERVICE which is secured by modern 
methods of purchasing, manufacturing, 
inspecting, packing and shipping, all of 
which are embraced by the Ladies' Wear, 
Limited, system. 

Ladies \Vear, Limited 

W. F. Gofortk 

A. K. Mackasey 
Maritime Provinces 

Di'u Goods Revii w 



W. L. Sutherland, 
Northern Ontario 

C. N. Beaton 

C. G. Sinclair 

W. McMillan 


Quality pays handsomely — it is the best 
and only lever to raise prices and increase 
profits. The customer you hold by the 
slender thread of low price is here to-day 
and gone to-morrow; the customer you 
hold by service and quality is bound to 
you — a permanent asset of your business. 
It will be our endeavor to maintain and 
even improve that standard of SERVICE 
for which our organization has ever stood. 
We look to you again for your co-opera- 
tion, that has so generously been extended 
in the past, and without which our efforts 
would be in vain. 

P. H. Showier 

Western Manitoba and 

Eastern Sask. 

R. B. Snell 

C. R. Hind 
Nor. hern Alberta 

563 College St., Toronto 

H. W. Martin 

Southern Alberta and 

Interior B. C. 


W. J. Crooks 
Pacific Coast 



Dry Goods Review 













Room 836 
W. J. Meyer 

W. J. Collett 

Dry Goods Review 















Room 836 
W. J. Meyer 
R. P. Richardson 


W. J. Collett 



Dry Goods Review 

for Misses and Juniors 

from "The House of Youth" 

In the new developments of Fashion which the "House of 
Youth" presents for Spring there is emphasized that style 
leadership and assurance of quality which buyers have 
learned to expect. 

And price — which is keenly of importance — has been ac- 
corded mopt favorable consideration, that you and your 
customers might be well pleased. 

Designers and Makers of 

Misses' and Juniors' Dresses 

The Counter Costume Co. 


129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto 


Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell 

Western and Southern Ontario. R. Kennedy 

Toronto, R. O. Hargrave Western Canada, J. Howard 

Maritime Provinces. W. A. Tallmire 

Montreal and Quebec. J. A. Michaud 

Suits and Coats 

Our travellers are now on the road with samples of our new 
spring line of Suits and Coats, in all the most desirable and 
seasonable fabrics. The tailoring of these garments is of 
the best and the styles are distinctive and original. 

If you are looking for the combination of the highest quality 
standards at prices women like to pay to-day, write for our 
Representative to call on you or call at our showroom when 
in the city. Our garments will interest you. 

Corner St. Catherine W. & Mountain Sts., 


Dry Goods Review 



An Amazing Success in 
Misses' and Children's 

Dress Specialization 

Our new range of Children's and Misses' 
Dresses offer unusual inducements to those 
who seek winsome styles and smartness of 
finish at 

New effects in — Serge, Tricotine, Satin, 
Charmeuse, Canton Crepe and Taffeta. 
Travellers now out. Be the first in your 
town to feature this already popular line. 
Write for particulars. 

Hargrave Dress Co. 

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto 


Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell 

Western and Southern Ontario, R. Kennedy 

Toronto, R. O. Hargrave Western Canada, J. Howard 

Maritime Provinces. W. A. Tallmire 

Montreal and Quebec. J. A. Michaud 



The Formation of the New Firm of 


Specialists in 

Infants', Girls' and Boys' Wear, Child- 
ren's Headwear, Bonnets, Wash Hats, 
Straws, Plush and Beavers, Children's 
Cotton Wearing Apparel. 

>6 Spadina Ave., Darling Bldg., Toront° 



Our Spring line of 


comprises just the kind of dresses the up-to-date woman wants to wear and the prices 
are just the prices she wants to pay — $10 and up. 

Canada Costume Company 

198A St. Catherine Street - Montreal 



Dry Goods Review 


Travellers are now on their respective territories with 

a snappy range of : 


Priced to get you right profits and mounting sales. 

It is our aim, this Spring, to give you the Best Fabrics, the Best Styles 
and the Best Workmanship that your money can buy. 



Western Representative: F. G. CAMPBELL, Winnipeg & Vancouver 


The "Canadian Lady" 
Dress Stands Alone 

in style and quality, and has earned its reputation of 
"Constant Seller" on sheer merit. 

Ranged in Ginghams, Crepes, Chambrays and 
Prints, it is just the distinctive kind of wash dress 
to appeal to the particular woman. We have not 
lost sight of the real purpose of a house dress. 
"Canadian Lady" dresses are well made, and neatly 

Write us for catalogue and prices. 



Dry Goods Review 




Let our travellers show you our line. 
You'll be surprised. 


We Manufacture 

Gingham Street, Porch and Apron 
Dresses, Girls' Dresses from 3 to 14, 
from print and gingham. Also print 
house and apron dresses. 

Rompers, Creepers, etc. 


513-515 College St., Toronto. 




are advertised and widely used from 
Coast to Coast. 

We have in Montreal a good assort- 
ment of these cottons, ready for imme- 
diate delivery. 

Why not keep up your stock and share 
in this worth-while quality business 
^lP§^ during 1922? 

^ f // not on our mailing list, please write — 

John E. Ritchie Dry Goods Commission Agent. 

_ 591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal. 


64 Wellington St. W., Toronto. 
29 Minshull St., 

615 Pender St. W., Vancouver. B.C. 
Manchester, England. 


See our Spring range of CHIL- 
DREN'S DRESSES, they include 
a wide range of styles; "The 
Jumper," "Chevy Chase," and 
many others. 

We are also showing nice lines 
Our travellers now have their 
complete ranges of LADIES' and 
and would be glad to show you 
;heir samples. 



Wholesale Dry Goods and 
Woollen Merchants 


N. B. 




Our travellers are now on the road with our new Spring line of COATS and SUITS. 
The dealer, who looks ahead, will readily realize the sales possibilities of this mer- 

To visiting buyers we extend an invitation to visit our showrooms, where the display 
facilities make selection both easy and pleasant. 

The Regent Cloak Co., 


321 Bleury St. Montreal 



"The most useful information containec 
renewing his subscription for FINANC 
"Very often," his letter goes on to say, 
times as low as a few hundreds, and I 1 
If every investor knew there was such ser 

The Investors' Inquiry Service fills just tin 
us before you buy. 

It costs Financial Post subscribers nothing 
may never have a chance of paying dividei 
Trained service men will give you the bene, 
you are considering. This is one of many ft 


Send me for one year (52 issues) The Fi. 



Dry Goods Review 

Keep up the Clerks' Morale By 
Messages in Weekly Envelope 

System Followed by the W. W. Cooper Store in 

Swift Current — The Golden Rule Store — Some 

Useful Lessons Suggested to Help Along Life's 


IN THE weekly pay envelope distributed 
by the W. W. Cooper Co. of Swift 
Current, Saskatchewan, a message is 
conveyed, the intent of which, perhaps, is to 
give an added sprightliness to the step, a 
new zest in life, an ideal that lingers through- 
out the week that lies ahead. This store is 
called "The Golden Rule Store," and their 
little "Employees' Pay Envelope Enclo- 
sure" somehow reflects the spirit of the or- 
ganization as expressed in the golden rule. 
It can well be imagined that a clerk would 
read over these messages at the end of a 
hard week's work feeling that a spirit of 
good-will was contained in them and that 
the management had something else in view 
than merely engaging people to work for 
them. Lessons can be learned by the way- 
side no matter what kind of work may be 
engaged in as one travels along the road. 
These lessons are brought home to the clerks 
in a refreshing way by these little enclosures 
and they are well worth reading and giving 
some thought to. It is not without interest 
to know that they are printed right in the 
Cooper establishment, for they have a print- 
ing press of their own which is devoted to 
many kinds of advertising matter. 

Below are a couple of enclosures for the 
employees' envelopes. 

Constructive Ideas 

To the colorless, the noneffective, the 
unachieving in life, I commend this ob- 
servation by a modern philosopher: 

"Magnetism, influence and power are 
created within, and thus every creative 
thought makes environment, makes the 
surrounding atmosphere, and, like a magnet, 
attracts outward influences to increase the 
power further.' 

And again : 

"You have powers within yourself of 
which you little dream. Each step you 
take forward will clear you for another step. 

"Belief in self, coupled with a fixed ideal 

and ev «** *—* ' 

plis 1 - 

and inferior. He perhaps sought place for 
selfish ends. His ideal, perhaps, was sym- 
bolized in the dollar mark. Or his aspira- 
tions may have been confined within the 
barren limits of self-satisfaction through 
material pleasures. 

Gaining any or all of these aims — as the 
energetically self-trustful may gain them — 
he yet must be accounted a nonentity, a 
failure, as he will frankly account himse'f in 
moments of honest self-communing. 

"I have missed something," will be his 
lament, the lament of every man whose con- 
structive thinking lacks idealism and there- 
fore, in the last analysis, is not really con- 
structive thinking at all. 

Certainly magnetism will not accrue 
to the nonidealistic thinker; nor true achieve- 
ment either. He may be no longer colorless 
but others will scarcely be attracted by the 
character of his coloring. 

Constructive thinking, finally, means 
cheerful thinking. 

Even the unselfishly self-trustful, the 
nobly endeavoring, encounter checks and 
disappointments. If they allow these to 
chill their souls, if they allow them to embit- 
ter their minds, then do they forthwith lose 
their grip on the powers they have been us- 

Every despairing thought, every gloomy 
one, every thought at all tinged with pessim- 
ism, is a thought that helps to weaken and 

Multiply such thoughts and the end will 
be failure irretrievable. 

On Making Mistakes 

The business world abounds in big win- 
ners. But it is conspicuously short in win- 
ners who can boast of an errorless record 
in their playing of the game of life. Ask any 
one of those who have won to the top, and it 
is almost a certainty you will be told: 

"Mistakes? Of course I have made 
mistakes. Mv career is peppered with them. 

akes who 



akes a 
o never 
• occas- 
•om the 

r foolish, 
ikes some 
who make 

.e a mistake 

/nmy in the 


;at difference 

)f the wise and 

eciate the mis- 
ty go on making 
;nd of their days. 

The wise recognise their mistakes, profit 
from the recognition, and are careful not to 
repeat them. 

It is, for example, a serious mistake to 
give way to anger in one's business deal- 
ings. Anger not merely breeds hostility 
and antagonism in others, but, because of its 
damaging effects on mind and body, it 
impairs the efficiency of the one who indulg- 
es in it. 

The wise man, noting the evil products 
of anger, irritability, sullenness and the like, 
will not long remain a slave to ill-temper. 
He will control his feelings, if only to save 
his bread-and-butter interests. 

"Keep cool!" is his constant admoni- 
tion to himself. "You will gain nothing and 
may lose a great deal by flying into a pas- 
sion. Why do it?" 

The foolish man, on the opposite, will 
let his feelings govern him year after year. 
He may even feel proud of his hair-trigger 
readiness to react wrathfully to whatever 
displeases him. 

"Nobody can bull doze me," he boasts. 
"Nobody can tread on my toes and get 
away with it. I'll show 'em what's what." 

He does show them all too plainly. 
And though he thereby hurts himself far 
more than he does those who give him of- 
fence, he continues through life an ill-natur- 
ed boor simply because he is too foolish to 
inquire into the cause of the painful con- 
sequences his incessant irritability brings 
upon him. 

The wise, however prone to make mis- 
takes, learn the lessons they teach. The 
foolish never learn, yet they wonder why 
they flounder all their days in the mor- 
asses of adversity. 


(Continued from page 174) 

Spring delivery, made up in the simplest 
manner, with two inch ruffled edges in 
i both plain and figured nets. These styles 
are to be commended for their high 
quality of workmanship and it is to be 
hoped that the trade will give them the 
prominence they deserve since nothing 
more charming can be selected for the 
bedroom, nursery or living room for 
any style of window. These are sup- 
plied in either 36 or 29 inch lengths. 
How To Care For Fine Curtains 

A leading Montreal manufacturer is 
issuing instructions with each pair of 
curtains sold regarding the proper meth- 
od of hanging and laundering new cur- 
tains. These are valuable and should 
be impressed on the customer by the 
sales clerk, verbally, even though they 
may be attached to the goods purchased. 
Newly Bought Curtains 

When you have them new, be sure to 
observe the following instructions: — 

Find the length required from pole to 
bottom of window, match each pair of 
curtains, from the bottom, turn in at top 
so that each curtain is of equal length. 
This is important, for these curtains 
sometimes differ a little in length, as 
they are assembled by hand. It is not 
(Continued on page 199) 



General News of the Trade 

A steadily increasing volume of busi- 
ness has compelled the Northern Tex- 
tiles Company, Limited, who are oper- 
ating a woolen mill in Chesley, Ont. to 
arrange to take over the old woolen mill 
in Wiarton, Ont. When sufficient stock 
has been subscribed to warrant the ex- 
penditure, the factory will be equipped 
to be operated as a scouring plant and 
distributing centre. 

To direct their course during 1922, 
the most important year in their history, 
the Kiwanis Club of Toronto, have 
made John O'Connor, of the Murray-Kav 
Contpany, their president. 

The Schuler Button Company have 
located at Brantford, Ont. They will 
maufacture pearl buttons and pearl nov- 
elties. J. W. Schuler, the manager has 
had many years experience in this line 
in Attleboro, Mass. He has associated 
with him as directors: Messrs. F. W. 
Frank, George A. Ward, R. M. Wedlake 
and A. M. Harley. The buttons to be 
manufactured by this tirm will be from 
special selections of South Sea pearls. 

C. E. Chappie, merchant and alderman 
of Fort Wil.iam, Ont., has been elected 
president of the Fort William-Port Ar- 
thur Kiwanis Club. 

On December 19, the death occurred 
at Dawson City, of Thomas P. Conlin, 
a pioneer meixhant of the Yukon. 

Mis. J. E. Johnston, wife of J. E. 
Johnston, a general merchant of Sun- 
derland, Ont. died at her home recently. 
She was an active worker in social 
and church circles and her death is a 
great loss to the community. 

Edson T. Burke entered the dry goods 
field in Springfield, N. S. some months 
ago. He is meeting with particular suc- 
cess in his competition with the mail- 
order business. His advertising aims 
to show the public that he can give 
better satisfaction at lower prices, than 
they can receive by mail-order. 

Frank H. Pingree, formerly vice- 
president of the International Fur Ex- 
change, has been made general manager 
of the Candian Fur Auction Sales Co. 

One of the oldest of Canada's com- 
mercial travellers, both in years of ser- 
vice and in age died on December 24, in 
the person of William Croft. He was on 
the road for the general merchandising 
house of William Croft & Son for 25 

D. McMurtrie, Empire Bldg., Ham- 
ilton, and J. F. Green, Grigg House, 
London, have been appointed local rep- 
resentatives of the lirm of Hodgson, 
Sumner and Company of Montreal and 
will in future, represent the firm in 
these cities. 

The Cosmos Milling Company have 
a life insurance system for their em- 
ployees, whereby the life of everyone 
of their employees is insured for $1,000. 
During the past year the company have 
also put in a health insurance, half of 
the premium for which is paid by the 
employee, the firm holding ten cents 
from his or her weekly wage. Tha 
other half is paid by the company. 
This policy allows a benefit of ten dol- 
lars a week, after the first week's ill- 
ness, for a period of twenty-six weeks. 

Cables from Ireland assert that prices 
on Russian flax are still too high but 
that holders seem more willing to con- 
sider offers. Irish flax is reported as 
being fairly liberal and in most cases, 
of good quality. 

The employees of the Harvey Knit- 
ting Co., Woodstock, held their annual 
Christmas entertainment on Friday, 
December 23. The guests of the even- 
ing were the families of the members 
of the mill. 

A million dollar's worth of fox furs 
were grown and sold in Prince Edward 
Island this year. This is the largest 
in the history of the island. 

Alex. Nelson, furrier of Montreal cel- 
ebrated the golden anniversary of 
the opening of his store. Hisi first 
business was in a tiny store on St. 
Catherine St. for which he paid the 
large ( ? ) rent of five dollars a month. 

A. H. Appleton has taken over the 
Royal Bank Bldg. in Gait and will use 
it for women's ready-to-wear after 
making considerable alterations. 

The Canadian Fur Auction Company 
will hold its next sale in Montreal on 
February 13. It is now receiving mer- 
chandise in preparation for the biggest 
sale that city has yet had. 

John W. Peck & Co., of Montreal will 
in future carry a comp'ete line of s^ock 
in their Vancouver warehouse. J. A. 
Frith will be in charge of Pacific coast 
buyers of clothing, shirts and caps. 


R. S. Coltart, vice-president of the 
Canadian Fur Auction Sales Company, 
has . been made a Companion of the 
Order of Areslov-Ed-Islaims (Guardian 
of the prophet). The Shah of Persia 
has conferred this honor on him for 
his assistance in ridding the Persian 
kingdom of "many wild beasts that in 
their time spread terror and cause 
havoc in the domains of the Shah, the 
Supreme Master and Ruler of the Uni- 
verse." As the only skins of Persian 
origin marketed in Canada are Persian 
lambs, this allusion to bea ts of terror 
is not understood by the recipient of 
the high honor. 

An interesting development in the chemi- 
cal world which is of particular interest to 
the textile trade, is the perfection of a chemi- 
cal process, which is claimed to render wool 
immune, to the attack of moths, without 
affecting its valuable properties in any way. 
Eulan F. is the name of the product which 
does this and it has been discovered by a 
German firm. The producers claim that 
the application of Eulan is extremely simple. 
The wool is saturated or immersed in a cold, 
aqueous solution of the product and after- 
wards rinsed. It is claimed that it will now 
be possible to overcome the moth plague 
within a few years, at a very small cost. 


(Continued from page 198) 
advisable to cut off any surplus length; 
turn in by making a double or treble 
heading, then if they shrink when laun- 
dered, let out to the required length. 

How To Launder Them 

Take down and shake well to remove 
dust; dip in warm soapy water in which 
you have dissolved a good quality of 
soap. Saturate well, then squeeze out 
water (do not wring or twist) with the 
hands. Repeat until clean. Now rinse 
in clear water a number of times. Hang 
on dryer or line. When almost dry 
(but still damp) iron them as follows: — 
Pin a sheet or flannelette blanket on the 
floor or large table. Pin down curtain, 
across bottom first, then up along front 
side, making it square with the bottom, 
next pin along rear side and do the top 
last. Iron the front and bottom first, 
then run the iron lightly over the body 
of the curtain. When finished measure 
and hang as per instructions for new 
curtains. If done properly your curtains 
will hang perfectly straight and look 
like new. Do not boil them. Do not 
use a wringer, washboard or curtain 
stretcher. A very thin starch solution 
may be used if desired on scrim and 
voile, but not on marquisette curtains. 



The McEIroy Mfg. Co., Ltd. 


Fit, Cut, Style, 

Hang and Finish 
47 Simcoe St. - Toronto 





Dry Goods 

Commissioners and Importers 

52 Victoria Square MONTREAL 

Brantford Felt 
Novelty Co. 

Brantford, - Canada 

Manufacturers of 

High Grade Pennants, Cushion Tops, 

Felt Emblems, Paper Hats, Advertising 





7.50 PER DOZ. 



Specialists in Stamped and Made-up 
Ladies' Undergarments, Infants' & Children's Dresse* 
49-53 East 21st Street New York City 

No. 900 — Nainsook Gown. Made up in 

three designs, a doz $6.50 

64-60 count, full length, full width, two- 
inch hem Sizes 15, 16, 17, 18. 

No. 145-146-147— Short Baby Dress, a 

doz $5.50— Gross $60.00 

No. 0145-0146-0147— Long Infants Dress, 
a doz $6.00 — Gross . . . $66.00 

Stamped Three Designs. Three Shaped 

Yokes. SeUin Sleeves. 

Terms 3% 10 Days 

Canadian Linoleums & 

Oilcloths, Limited 

Cornwall, Ont. 

SPRING, 1922 

New range of patterns 

now ready for delivery. 

Send for small sample 
book and price list. 



We carry complete lines of 



Careful attention given to mail 
orders. Samples gladly sub- 
mitted on request. 


Wholesale Milliners 

17 St. Helen St. - Montreal 

Agents wanted calling on Mantle and 
Costume Manufacturers, also Tailors 
Trimming Houses, and Wholesale Cloth- 
iers, to sell the "Gem" and "Empire" 
Button Covering Machines, and all grades 
of Buttons. Specially first grade Erinoid 
and Ivory Buttons. 
48 Miller Street. 


up-to-date and rightly priced lines for 
Pacific Coast territory- Dresses. Hosiery, 
Gloves, Corsetsi Neckwear. Novelties, 

Leather hags. At once. Address manufac- 
turers' Agency, 501 Carter-Cotton Bldlg., 

There are some terms used in 
the hosiery trade, with which 
salespeople are often not as fam- 
iliar as they should be. The fol- 
lowing are a few of the more im- 

Seamless stockings are knitted 
in tubular form, instead of being 
made up in the piece and then 
sewn together. They are shaped 
in the knitting then stretched and 


With Hardaker's 



It makes them more attractive. 
Economical, Fast, Practical, Neat. 


45 St. Alexander St. MONTREAL 

Washable Clothing 








The Miller Mfg. Co., Limited 

44-4S York Street. • TORONTO 

The Oldest and Largest Specialty 

Clothing House in Canada. 

Complete Lines at Keen Values in 






Miller Men's Wear Limited 

Miller BId c . 

44-48 York St., - TORONTO 

44 Everything in Mmn'a Furniahinga" 

The French have followed the 
lead of New York in adopting the 
knickerbocker styles. They, of 
course, do not adhere to the tailor- 
ed types but adopt their own in- 
terpretation of breeks. One Paris 
model has an apology for a skirt 
reaching to the knee and under it 
red and green puttees. Another 
carries out the knicker idea in 
black velvet, the whole suit from 
chin to knee being of this mater- 
ial. A cape falling away from 
the shoulders, gives the French 
touch to the costume. 





Walter Williams & Co. 



Popular Priced 
Flowers and Feathers 

670-674 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY 


The but 36-inch brown 
domestic in America 

Buy it by the bale; 
tell it by the bolt 

Indiana Cotton Mills 

Can nel ton, I nd.,U.S. A . 

T. H. Birmingham & Co, 

533 College St., TORONTO 

Makers of 

Women's High Grade 
'The Exclusive Neckwear House" 




Blanket Manufacturers 

Telegrama and Cables, "Blankets" Halifax 
Codes, A.B.C. 5th, and Bentley's 


Artificial Flowers, Plants and Vines, 
Window Decorations, Japanese and 
Chinese Decorations, Papier Mache 
Novelties, Electric Lighted Flower 
Bushes. Write for our Catalogue. It's 
free for the asking. 

The Botanical Decorating Company 

39 Adelaide St. W. - TORONTO 


Popular-Priced Ladies' and Misses' 






The Robert Hyslop Co L'^hip 



Every description of Haberdashery and 

Smallwares for Drapery, Dressmaking. 

Millinery, Fancy Needlework, Outfitting 

and Tailoring Trades. 


8&9Hamsell Street, London, E.C I. 

Established 1871 


Ra y 



Conveniently and attractively packed; half 
dozen and dozen cartons; individual transparent 
envelopes; and compressed in individual boxes. 

Write for interesting prices. 
200 Broadway New Yorli City 

Red Seal Zephyr Ginghams 

Everett CI a s s i cs 
Eden Cloth-Pec^y Cloth-Blankets 

Sl AfeC 


/1 15 Worth St., NY 

\ 775ummcr SI.. Boston 

226 West Adam Stftkajo 


"J-C" Ribbons have peculiar 
charm. Widely advertised to 
the consumer under their 
trade-mark names for the 
protection of the dealer. 
JOHNSON, COWiDIN & OO., 40 E. 90th St, 
New York. N.Y. Made In U.S.A. 


Head Office : 

65 Simcoe St. 

137 McGill Street 

Manufacturers' Agents and Distributors 

Textile and Smallwares Specialities. 

Wholesale and Manufacturers Only Supplied. 


In Silver, Gun Metal and Green 
Gold Finish, Metal Frames for 
Ladies' Hand Bags. 
Made in Canada for the Canadian Trade 


D B. Rsk&Co. 


New York Salesroom : 

Open Throughout the Year 

411 Fifth Avenue 



232 McGill St. Montreal 



The Toronto Feather & Down Co. Ltd. 

2154-56-58 Dundas St. W. Toronto 


"Turn* Watte 

into Profit" 
Send for Catalog 


Hamilton, Ont. 


Largest Makers of 

Cotton Flags 

Write for Price* 


517 Wellington St. We»t Toronto 


1 represent In this country some of the 
most reliable Manufacturers of Hlgh- 
Grade SLLKS. in plain, fancy weaves. 

Quality and Novelty Is my motto. 


108 Dandurand BIdg. Montreal 

J. F. Carnall & Co., England 


Men's, Women's & Children's 

Heather Hose 
Complete Stock Carried in Toronto by 

A. M. Duncan 

39 Adelaide St. W.. - TORONTO 

Fred Jones & Company 

Manufacture? i and Importers 

Babies' Hand Crochet Goodi Notions 

Babies' Hand Knit Goods Novelties 

Art Needlework Materials 

Room 712 Empire Building 


Fraser's Women's Wear Directory, pocket sizt, 
issued each July, 

Fraser's Men's Wear Directory, pocket size. Is- 
sued each September, and 

Fraser's Textile Products Directory, each Janu- 
ary, a combination of the above two books. 
Subscription In Canada $2.00 a year. Sample 
copy on request. 

Fraser Publishing Company 

H. O. 128 Bleury Street, Montreal 
Br. Office, 122 Wellington W., Toronto. 





Acme Glove Works, Ltd 138 

Adams-Barret Co 11 

Albion Knitting Co., Ltd 131 

Allen Bros. & Allen Silk Mills 6 

American Waist & Dress Co 192-193 

Anderson & Thomson 40 

Atlantic Underwear, Ltd 118 


Ballantyne, R. M., & Co 120-121 

Balthasar, 0., & Co 38 

Baker, Richard L., & Co 17-18-19-20 

Barry, Walter, Co 137 

Bastard, J. & W 44 

Bates & Innes 131 

Belding Corticelli, Ltd Back Cover 

Beard, Kirby & Co 45 

Birmingham, T. H., Co, Ltd 201 

Botanical Decorating Co 201 

Bradford Dyers' Association, Ltd... 33 

Brantford Felt Novelty Co 200 

British Industries Fair 37 

Brock Co., W. R. (Montreal) 50-51 

Brock Co., W. R. (Toronto). .52-53-54-55 

Brown, Jackson & Co 37 

Burritt, A., Co 118-119 

Button Sales, Ltd 153 

Butterfield, Fred., & Co., Inc 98-99 

Bvard Mfg. Co 30 

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson. . . . 107 
Canadian Linoleums & Oilcloths 

Limited 200 

Canadian Lady House Dress Co.... 196 

Canada Costume Co 195 

Canadian Perfect Garment 197 

Canada Veiling Co 10 

Carnall, J. F., & Co 201 

Carr, James, & Sons, Ltd 48 

Chatillon, Mouly, Rousell & Cie 182 

Celtic Knitting Co., Limited 124 

Chananie, J 139 

Clatworthy & Sons, Limited 168 

Climax Baler Co 201 

Chipman Holton Knitting Co 129 

Circle Bar Knitting Co 130 

Colonial Fastener Co 156 

Consolidated Lithographing & Mfg. 

Co. Limited Inside Front Cover 

Counter Costume Company 195 

Congoleum Co. of Canada Limited 

Inside Back Cover 

Copp Clark Company 201 

Craf tana 40 


Daly & Morin, Limited 178-179-180 

Dale Wax Figure Company 170 

Davis Henry & Company 131 

Dent, Allcroft & Co. (Can.) 140 

Delfosse & Company 171 

Dobson & M. Brown Co. Ltd 38 

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co. 177 

Dods Knitting Co 126 

Dominion Textile Co 95 

Dominion Ostrich Feather Co 150 

Dominion Wadding Co 25 


Emmett, E. G., & Company 48 

English Velvet & Cord Dyers' Asso- 
ciation 35 

European Novelty Company 107 


Fisk & Company 107-201 

Forsyth-Kemmel Ltd 159 

Fraser Publishing 141-201 

French Ivory Products Limited.... 151 
Freeman-Huckvale 195 


Garland Son & Co., John M 3 

Gagnon, J. H 201 

Gardner, M., Co., Ltd 196 

Gait Knitting Co., Ltd 132 

Gibson, W. M. & Son Limited 34 

Gertenzang Bros 201 

Gillett & Ewer 42 

Gipe-Hazard Store Service 182 

Goderich Knitting Co 130 

Greenshields, Ltd 1-96-97 

Goode Albert Bedin & Cie 109 

Goulding G. & Co 106 

H - 

Hargrave Dress Co 194 

Hawley A. E. & Co. Ltd 56 

Haugh Mfg. Co. Limited, J. A 183 

Hawthorn Mills Limited 123 

Henderson, J. B., & Co 182 

Heron & Taylor 11 

Hollin & Co., Ltd., Wm 25 

Hodges & Lettau 201 

Hollins Mills Co. Limited 36 

Hodgson Sumners & Co., Ltd 22-23 

Horrockses Crewsden Limited 32 

Hoyle, Joseph & Son 41 

Hyslop Co., Robert 201 

Hygienic Fibric Company 201 


Infants' Footwear Company 38 

Indiana Cotton Mills 201 

International Textile Exhibition. . . 39 

Irish Linen Society 12-13 

Inland Spinning Company 40 


Jaeger Co. Limited 127 

Jamieson, Alex. & Co Front Cover 

Jauffred & Gariel 34 

Jennens, Welsh & Co., Ltd 38 

Johnston, Crowdin & Co 201 

Jones & Company, Fred 201 

Jones Bros. & Company Limited. . . 169 


Kelly, T. K. Sales System 87 

Kent-McClain Limited 7-165-189 

Kenrood Mills, Ltd 125 

King Silk Co., A. S. Ltd 2 

King & Co., John 32 


Lace Goods Company ' 181 

Ladies' Wear Limited 190-191 

Lamson Company 166-167 

Lazare & Novek 194 

Leone & Company 200 

Levine & Share 

Lingerie Company 94 


Macdonald, John & Company 5 

Martin & Co., P. P. Limited 24 

McElroy Mfg. Company 200 

McMartin & Co., E. W 200 

Miller Mfg. Company 200 

Milers Men's Wear, Limited 200 

Mitchell Woollen Co 124 

Morton & Co., Robert 32 

Monarch Knitting Co 128 

Morton Sundour, Ltd 4 

Moyer, A. W . & Co 130 

Moulton Mfg. Co. Limited 153 

Mouterde, Chas 108 

Muser Bros. (Canada) Limited.... 21 


Newton, Frederick & Co 201 


Old Bleach Linen Co 16 


Palmenbergs Sons Inc 159 

Pawsons & Leaf, Limited 47 

Phillips, R. A 149 

Peerless Underwear Co. Limited... 124 

Potter Thos. & Son 34 " 

Priestley Bros 201 

Prime & Rankin, Limited 176 

Pugh Specialty Company 149 


Racine Alphonse Limited 86 

Regent Cloak Company 197 

Riches, Marcus 40 

Rigg Bros. Limited 43 

Ritchie, H. P. & Company 14-15 

Robertson, C. & J 48 

Ritchie, John E . & Company 197 

Rodden, F. A., & Company 200 

Roberston, J. M. Knitting Co 127 


Sands & Graham Limited 200 

Sales, Julian, Leather Goods Co.... 147 

Silks Limited 94 

Scott, Peter & Company Limited. . . 31 

Smith, Hogg Company 201 

Starr, C. H 107 

Sterling Dress Company 201 

Stoffell & Company 11 

Studd & Millington 46 


Thomson Knitting Co 122 

Tod, H. G. Company 11 

Toronto Feather & Down Co 201 

Turnbull, C. Co. Ltd 133 

Trainer Mfg. Co 200 


Vassie & Co., Limited 197 

Viegelmann, Robert 201 

Visor Knitting Co. Ltd 122 


Walker Bin & Store Fixture Co 171 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 8-9 

Wabasso Cotton Co 85 

Watson, John 48 

Warner Bros 146 

Western Leather Goods Co 152 

Westlake Bros., Ltd 139 

Whiting & Davis 201 

White, Will P. Limited 158-201 

Williams, Walter, & Co., Ltd 46-201 

Wilson & Company 46 

Wilson, Knowles & Co 49 

Winnett & Wilinger, Ltd 150 

Wright Sons, Wm. E., Co 153 

Wrinch McLaren Company 157 


On every genuine Gold 
Seal Congoleum Rug, on 

every two yards of Gold 
Seal Congoleum by-the- 
yard you find this famous 
Gold Seal. Give this seal 
prominent display — tell 
customers what it means 
— such a guarantee is 
bound to build confidence 
in your goods and your 

"What an attractive 
rug for the mon"" ' 

Heavy Sales On 


This Spring 

We're reaching the time of year when women size 
up their homes — house-cleaning reveals the worn- 
out furnishings, the threadbare and shabby spots. 

That puts them in a buying mood — and Congoleum 
dealers will benefit. For there's nothing like new 
floor-covering to improve a room. And G-old Seal 
Congoleum does that job at a cost so moderate as to 
be within the range of the humblest purse. The 
universal demand for economy makes it a logical 
big seller. 

Through 1022 vigorous, sustained advertising will 
run in the leading Canadian magazines, farm papers 
and newspapers. The advertisements will show the 
attractiveness of Gold Seal Congoleum patterns — will 
tell of Congoleum's economy and durability. With 
the new prices in effect Congoleum sales are certain 
to be bigger than ever. 

Fill out your Gold Seal Congoleum stock — display 
the Gold Seal signs and window-cards. Then watch 
your sales jump. 

OF CANADA, Limited 

Factory and Offices: 
1270 St. Patrick St., Montreal 

Made in Canada — By Canadians 

By-the -Yard Goods To 

Widen Congoleum 

Sales Opportunities 

We have just introduced new 8/4 by-the- 
yard goods — a sure seller. 

Canadian housewives are strong for Gold 
Seal Congoleum Art-Rugs — they've shown 
such a preference for their easy-cleaning 
qualities, their durability and economy that 
we know a big market awaits the by-the- 
yard goods. 

There are many places in the home where 
rugs are not suitable — odd-shaped rooms, 
rooms with bad, unfinished floors need an 
all-over floor-covering. Congoleum by-the- 
yard meets this need. 

Add these goods to your Congoleum stock. 
They'll widen your sales-and-profit oppor- 




7 %a 

Toronto Montreal Vancouver Winnipeg 


Vol. XXXIV. No. 2 








having complete assortments of 

General Dry Goods, Woollens, Carpets, Hosiery, Underwear, 
Gloves, Notions, Smallwares, Men's Furnishings, 

"Her Ladyship" Brand Ready-to- Wear Garments, &c. 


Nine Sample Rooms 

Located in the following important centres: 

Halifax, N. S. Sydney, C.B. Quebec, P.Q. Ottawa, Ont. 
Hamilton, Ont. London, Ont. Winnipeg, Man. 
Edmonton, Alta. Vancouver, B.C. 


Constantly calling on the trade in their respective territories. 

iv C IxG^w 

) ^^mm y 


See Pages 27 29 




The Priceless 

Value of Your 

" Store- Appeal" 

llllllllllllllllllllllllllll I III Ml III I Mill Illlllll | Illlllllllllllllimilllllll 

The general attractiveness and selling 
appeal of your store as a whole, will 
determine your volume of spontaneous 
sales — the articles people leave your store 
with that they had no intention of buying 
on entering. Strive to have your store 
make buying an irresistible pleasure, as 
well as a necessity, and you will reap re- 
turns in far greater abundance than ever 

Antiquated fixtures and obsolete show- 
cases that outgrew their real usefulness 
many years ago, are clouds that obscure 
the real worth of your store, handicap 
your salespeople, and keep sales at the 

Kent-McClain. Show-cases and Store-equip- 
ment make every possible use of your store's 
"display possibilities," enhance the quality of 
your offerings; assist, not impede your sales- 
people; and increase sales volume and profit 
to the maximum. 



Begin the creation of a better store 
with one or more "Inter-place-able 
Units" which permit you to build as 
your business grows. Write for the cata- 
logue especially prepared for Dry Goods 
Stores. It will enlighten you on your 
store's possibilities. 


(JorontoSnowCaseCo) XUURQ. 






is assured to the Retail Dry Goods Merchants who utilize to 
the fullest extent all the advantages offered by our efficient 
organization, comprising eighteen different departments, each one a Spec- 
ialty House in itself. 

Progress as the outcome of sound merchandising is the spirit of our bus- 
iness, the spirit we impart to our many thousands of customers, backed 
by the benefit of our immense buying powers. Every department in this 
great organization is fully equipped to care for the merchants throughout 
Canada ; stocks in any line contain an extensive variety of desirable mer- 
chandise, thoroughly representative of the requirements of style and the 
needs of the people, and assuring 




"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada" 

Victoria Square - - Montreal 









n d 


At Once 


Zurich, Switzerland 
Lyons, France 

Summer Wash Silks 

In Great Variety 

Habutai, Satins, Jerseys, 

Pongees, Shantungs. 

Taffeta, Duchesse, Paillette, 

Georgette, Canton, Crepe de Chine. 


& &. i^mg ^tlfc Company 


"ftfje gulfe $ou*e of Canaba" 

59-61 Wellington St. West, Toronto 

Foreign Offices: 

Yokohama, Japan 
Chefoo, China 

III II I II Ml IN I II I ! MIIMIMI MUM I | 1 1 III I M I II I M M I J 1 1 11 1111 IIIMMIIM M M III I II I III I M 1 1 1 II I III Ml 1 1 M I M I M 1 1 HT'I I III Ml 1 1 Ml II I Mil I MM I III Ml 1 1 II 





Smallwares, Trimmings and Ribbons 
•for your Spring Trade 

You should have your stock of these "Dress-mak- 
ers' Accessories" gone through carefully and put in- 
to good shape for the big Spring Business which is 
commencing now. 

Two of our nine departments give exclusive atten- 
tion to Smallwares, Trimmings and Ribbons and 
each of our travellers has a complete range of 

Anytime you spend with our representative going 
through his Smallware Sample Book will repay you 
well in two ways: New Ideas which come out reg- 
ularly and a stock of up-to-date Smallwares at a price 
that will enable you to profitably take care of your 
every customer. 


John M. Garland, Son 
& Co., Ltd. 

Ottawa - Canada 
Wholesale Dry Goods 



For Curtains and Furniture 
Coverings of enduring beauty 




The Colours of these beau- 
tiful Fabrics are guaranteed 
absolutely fast against sun 
or wash and the Fabrics are 
made in Casement Cloths, 
Reps, Damasks, Chenilles, 
Madras Muslins, Tapestries, 



89 Newgate Street - London, E.C. 

Canadian Representative :*G. I. KITCHEN, 72 Bay Street, Toronto 








is unrivalled for strength 

As a wrapping paper it has no equal and its attractive appearance 
is a standing advertisement for the merchant who uses it. 

Bags of all kinds made from 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 

are fifty per cent, stronger than those produced from inferior 
grades of paper. 


manufactured from this paper protect their contents from loss and 
damage in transit through the mails as efficiently as those made 
from more expensive papers and at one eighth of the cost. 

These claims are not exaggerations but plain statements of fact. 

Ask your wholesaler to prove their truth by giving you a practical 
demonstration which will convince the most sceptical that 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 


Strength and Security 






Hosiery Novelties 

These new lines in Winsome Maid Hosiery are 
quickly winning favor. 

Number 350 

Beautiful two-ton* effect in silk and wool, con- 
trastingly clocked. 

Number 500 

Double fabric, silk hosiery — the first line to 
meet the needs of women desiring additional 
warmth with the same pure silk weave for 
winter wear, (iives comfort of cotton, warmth 
of wool and heauty of glove silk. 

Allen Silk Mills Limited 

43 Davies Ave., Toronto 

The Finest Trade buys "Winsome Maid' 


A. B. C. Hosiery 

fills every requirement for cashmere or silk 
and wool mixtures, for men, women and 

Order from these lines 

For Children 

Beautiful pure thread silk, 
1 and 1 rib. 

Silk and wool, 1 and 1 rib, 
Cashmere in heather mix- 
ture, three-quarter length 
sock with roll top. 
Cashmere — plain weaves 
and new shades in heather. 

For Men and Women 

Silk and wool mixtures, 
many combinations of 

Cashmere, plain weaves 
and new shades in hea- 

All seamless with re-inforced heels and toes. 

Allen Bros. Co., Limited 

883 Dundas St. E., Toronto 

A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee. 


This is one of the series of striking 
illustrations appearing in Hoover 
national advertising. Over six 
hundred thousand of Hoover 
full pages are circulated monthly 
through leading magazines 

Become an "Authorized Hoover 

Dealer" in 1922! 


Improved Handle Control 

Exclusively Hoover— 

UNTIL the new "tilting bar" was 
brought out by The Hoover no 
satisfactory means of handle 
control on an electric cleaner existed. 
Now complete control of the ma- 
chine is assured without stooping or 
stretching, without tightening bolts 
or screws. The user of The Hoover 
may easily tilt it backward or for- 
ward in order to pass any obstruc- 
tion—may leave the machine to 
answer doorbell or telephone and re- 
turn to find the handle held in a 
convenient operating position — may 
lower the handle for use under low 
furniture or lock it in an Upright 
position for storage. All this is done 
quickly and easily by a slight move- 
ment of the foot. Protected by pat- 
ents granted May 1, 1917. February 
IS. 1921. and pending. A total of 18 
valuable patents are now the exclu- 
sive property of The Hoover Suction 
Sweeper Company of Canada, Limited. 
Still others pending. 

This year every Hoover Dealer is to 
enjoy, more than ever, an enviable 
position among all dealers in household 

Each dealer will be granted the Author- 
ized Hoover Dealer's License, which 
publicly places the endorsement, con- 
fidence and moral backing of The 
Hoover Suction Sweeper Company of 
Canada, Limited, behind the store that 
secures an Authorized Hoover Dealer- 
ship. Inquiries received as a result of 
our large national advertising cam- 
paign will naturally be referred only 
to such dealers. 

Furthermore, the company will enter 
into a contract with each dealer which 
will be to his benefit. 
The sale of Hoovers is to be limited to 
those dealers who are thus licensed to 
demonstrate, sell and service Hoovers. 
The license, framed and displayed in 

each store, informs the public that the 
dealer has been chosen to represent 
Hoover interests in his locality. 

An "Authorized Dealer " window trans- 
fer is also furnished. It states that the 
dealer is licensed "to sell and service 
Hoovers bearing the factory guaran- 

Any Hoover purchased from other 
than an Authorized Dealer will carry 
no factory guarantee. Every legiti- 
mate effort will be made to protect 
licensed dealers. 

The confidence of the buying public in 
the Authorized Hoover Dealer will be 
thus forcibly strengthened through 
this official authority granted by the 

Become an "Authorized Hoover Deal- 
er" in 1922! The franchise will prove 
an asset of ever-growing value to you. 

The Hoover Suction Sweeper Company of Canada, Limited 

Factory and General Offices: Hamilton, Ontario 


It Beats ... as it Sweeps as it Cleans 


















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|| NOT 





It's all in 
the Spring 



Strong — 
Made of 

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper 

Colonial Maid 

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners 

Made in 

D llf ' MADE 







WHITE AND BLACK .\ .-. SIZES: 00-0-1 

To be had of all leading wholesalers. 

Manufactured by 

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited 

Montreal, Que. 


T gsaeaeg&^sMiszsE ag yfflyffl^^ 


The mark 

of selling value 












Assortments of 

All Lines are in Stock 

at our 

Warehouse for 



Travellers are now showing our Complete Range 

fflu&tv Jfrotfjets; (Canada) Xtmiteb 

Manufacturers and Importers of Laces, 

Dress Trimmings and Embroideries. 

Importers of Fancy Dry Goods 


New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, Baltimore, Los Angeles, San Francisco, 
London, Nottingham, Paris, Calais, Caudry, Le Puy, St. Gall 



=3 ■ __ „ 



Commands Attention 

QUALITY, STYLE and PRICE are the outstanding 
features of our House Furnishings. We invite you to 
inspect our merchandise and to compare our prices. 

See our large assortment of STAIR CARPETS, 
REVERSIBLE RUGS, all sizes, with Runners and Rugs 
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All orders are shipped the same day as received. 
Special attention given to Mail Orders. 

// in a hurry call us by 
Long Distance 


83-91 St. Paul St, West 

21 St. Sulpice St. 


84-92 LeRoyer St. 

7 Charest St., QUEBEC Windsor Hotel, OTTAWA 

Carlaw Bldg., 28-30 Wellington St. West, TORONTO 
Can Bank of Commerce Bldg., THREE RIVERS New Sherbrooke House, SHERBROOKE 

Empire Bldg., HAMILTON Grigg House, LONDON 

503 Mercantile Bldg., VANCOUVER 
50 Bon Accord St., MONCTON, N. B. 




The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabric in 




Batistes Nainsooks Jaconas Fancies 

Fine Muslins Voiles Crepes Calicots 


---the finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie 


To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only 


77 York Street, 

Tel. Adel. 2253 

Sole Agents for Canada 

235 Coristine Bldg., 

20 St. Nicholas Street, 

Montreal, Que. 

Tel. Main 6248 

Newton & Carpenter 

Specializing in 




Also Children's Dresses 

A representative will be pleased to 
call and show our line 

62 Richmond St., E., Toronto 

Tel. Main 1042 

3ES3 EHXEm v-*-x * I * * EX333 O * xrvrrYX tj 
n For the highest 

» QU/7L/TY— 

at the 
Lowest prices. 

See our Extensive Range of 

Baseball Uniforms 

Girls' Baseball Uniforms 

Soccer Jerseys (All Wool) 

Soccer Pants 

Official Boy Scout Uniforms 

All-Wool Bathing Suits 

and Swimming Trunks 

da full range of White Duck Clothing. 






y y.y v\\ niL<iinn<nyuYnf rmm m 




111 Sparks SI 



517 Centre St. 







of the 14 Departments of 



LAST MONTH— Mr. J. A. Mitchell, Mgr. Depts. "A" and "Ax" Staple 
Cotton Dept. Look up your January Dry Goods Review 

THIS MONTH— Mr. J. A. Boucher, Mgr. Dept. "B" Wash Goods Dept. 
Look below at his happy countenance. There's a reason. 

DEPT. "B" 

2 in I and Second to None 

Dept. Bl -Staple Wash Goods — Do- 
mestic and Import Ginghams, 
Prints, Ducks, Steelclads, 
Cotton Cashmeres, Repps, 
Piques, Drills, Cotton Suit- 
ings, Fine Shirtings, Fancy- 



72 Bay Street 



Lister Chmbrs. 


C B. 

269 Charlotte St. 


N. S. 
119 Roy Bid*. 



Our Samples will interest all who 

are interested in "the unusually good" in 


Produced in Canada. Popular Priced. Wide Range. 

Representatives now on their respective territories 
with many new novelties for Fall and Christmas. 

See our range before placing your order 




Manufacturers Jtf.eta.11ic Laces, Silk 

Lingerie, Embroideries, Handkerchiefs, 

7tf.erri-Jtf.aid Dresses for Children 



Dry Goods Review 

"Up to Standard Not Down to Price" 

W. Thow Mimro, Chairman of Scottish Woollen Trade Mark 
Association Delegation Outlines Objects of Association And 
Their American Visit — Visitors Given Complimentary Banquet 
by Canadian National Newspapers and Periodicals Association 

at King Edward Hotel 

WHAT the Scottish Woollen Trade 
Mark Association have in view 
in sending representatives of 
their membership on a tour through 
Canada and the United States was told 
by their chairman, Thow Munro, of 
Munro & Co., Ltd., Edinburgh, at a 
complimentary banquet tendered the 
delegates at the King Edward Hotel on 
January 27th, by the Canadian Nation- 
al Newspapers and Periodical.® Associa- 
tion. This delegation has been on this 
side of the water for several weeks and 
at this banquet met representative 
members of manufacturing, wholesale 
and retail organizations of Toronto. In 
the absence of the president of the C. 
N.N. & P.A., H.T. Hunter, vice-presi- 
dent, occupied the chair. In a few in- 
troductory remarks he pointed out that 
the objects of the two associations were 
the same — ta create a certain standard 
to which members must subscribe be- 
fore they were eligib e to membership 
in the association. He regretted that 
their tour in Canada did not take in 
many of the smaller and more repre- 
sentative sections of the country where 
there were towns of three to five thou- 
sand people and where the volume of 
business done reflected very well the 
genera, prosperity of the country as a 

Visit Will Do Good 
"I believe your visit to this country 
will have some effect," said Mr. Hunter, 
"on the men who are handling your 
goods. In handling them, they wild 
associate your personalities with these 
goods that they are handling. I think 
it is an advance step in business meth- 
ods that you have gone to the trouble 
and expense to make a tour of this 
country for the sake of protecting the 
name you have soi carefully made for 
yourselves as manufacturers of wool- 

W. Thow Munro 
The chairman of the delegation, W. 
Thow Munro, after referring in grate- 
ful terms to the hospitality with which 
the delegation had been met since ar- 
riving on this side of the water, pro- 
ceeded to outline the aims and objects 
which they had in view in making this 
trip to America. The Scotch trade, he 
said, was a trade with a great deal of 
tradition behind it. They all had a 
great pride in that tradition and they 
now had a reputation for producing a 
very high class and quality of goods. 
In their activities, they had stretched 
out into the far corners of the earth, 
but perhaps they had spent too much 
of their time in the manufacturing end 
of it and not enough on the men who 
actually sell their product. The time 

Reading from left to right, front row — Robert S. Hayward, G. W. Gray, 

Mrs. Hayward, C. J. Glenny, Gilbert Patterson, Jr., W. Thow Munro, 

Robert Sim and Mrs. Sim. 

Behind— F. H. Bisset. 

Rear — George Rae, Robert Christie, Robert White, A. J. Sanderson, Tom 

Ballantyne, W. R. Ovens, Geo. A. Hunter. 

— Photo by the "International" — New York. 

had come when they realized that this 
must now be done. 

It was the object of the delegation, 
he said, to find out the exact needs of 
the Canadian trade and to do so they 
believed it was far better for them to 
come here than to find out by corres- 
pondence. He felt that the visit of 
such a delegation would do good. The 
Scotch trade for the moment may seem 
dark and gloomy and uncertain and it 
was difficult to discern the outcome of 
the slump that had hit them. But so 
far as this trade was concerned, he be- 
lieved they had seen the turn of the 
road and they were around the corner. 
He wou.d not deny that there were dif- 
ficult times ahead but felt sure that they 
had finally reached a stable basis. 
Suffered from Imitation 

The Scotch woollen trade, continued 
the speaker, has suffered a good deal 
from imitations that had been put on 

the market. Thousands of yards of ma- 
teria s were sold as Scotch tweeds that 
were not even made in Scotland. This 
association has been formed for the pur- 
pose of protecting the good name of 
Scottish woollen manufacturers and 
while they were net sui? that they 
could overcome this evil altogether, be- 
lieved that the greater part of it would 
be stamped out. "We are not going to 
tamper with any quality," said Mr. Mun- 
ro. "We are going to keep up our 
standards. We have been told that if 
we would only make something a little 
cheaper we would do better in this coun- 
try but I think the English manufactur- 
er has made a mistake in working down 
to price rather than up to standards. 
No sane man can meet the competition 
of some of the firms that have made a 
sett ement and are throwing goods up- 
on the market far below their economic 

(Continued on page 34) 

Dry Goods Review 



Delegate Says Conditions Improved 

F. H. Bisset, Secretary of Scottish Woollen Trade Mark Asso- 
ciation, Outlines Conditions in Woollen Industry — Says Scottish 
Mills Now Running 60 Per Cent. Capacity — Serious Losses Have 
Been Taken on Account of Cancellations — Promoting Trade In 


THE VISIT of the seventeen Scot- 
tish woollen manufacturers to 
Canada and the United) States for 
the purpose of investigating these mar- 
kets on behalf of the Scottish Woollen 
Trade Mark Association, which they rep- 
resent officiary, has been duly announc- 
ed in the press in both countries. The 
object of the visit of this delegation 
was in reality for a still greater pur- 
pose, namely, to promote more cordial 
relations between the Old Country and 
the two great nations on this side of 
the Atlantic as well as to study the 
needisi of the various markets in order to 
increase the volume of business in sea- 
sons to come. 

The scope of the Scottish Woollen 
Trademark Association is well known, 
comprising as it does 80 per cent, of the 
woollen and worsted trade in Scotland, 
and including 35 manufacturers and 5 
important yarn spinneris. 

British manufacturers have suffered 
severely from imitators in recent years, 
and one of the purposes of the delega- 
tion is to familiarize buyers' on this 
side with the trade-mai-k stamped on all 
cloth manufactured by members of the 
association. Cloth thus marked is 
guaranteed "Made in Scotland of Pure 
New Wool." 

Conditions Improved 

In discussing the present situation in 
the Scotch trade with a staff member 
of Dry Goods Review, the Secretary, 
P. H. Bisset, pointed out that conditions 
have materially improved since last 
May and mills are now running about 
60 per cent capacity. Wool prices and 
labor rates appear stabilized and two 
wage cu'.s have been made. British 
woollen manufacturers suffered more 
than American producers because over 
75 per cent, of their goods ar e taken by 
export trade, and the home market nev- 
er consumes more than 50 per cent of 
the product. Though few losses were 
sustained in this country, many mer- 
chants lost heavily in South America 
and other markets where their liabil- 
ities were much heavier than those of 
American houses. British mills were 
also caught by the slump while at full 
production, and manufacturers and mer- 
chants were loaded with large stocks 
bought at high prices, whereas Ameri- 
can mills had their depression between 
seasons and the curtailed production re- 
suited in the rapid improvement at the 
beginning of the year. There have been 
no failures among the large woollen 
mills and few of importance in the job- 
bing trade in Great Britain. 

Due to the large export trade British 
warehousemen and jobbers had large 
amounts in frozen credits outstanding, 
besides being compelled to carry over 
the clothing manufacturers who got in- 
to difficulties. Mills are compelled to 
grant long extensions to merchants and 
are themselves being carried by banks. 
An examp'e of difficulties in export 
trade is the situation of one large firm 
of jobbers which had £800,000 in can- 
cellations from South America. The re- 
sult of all this is to restrict working 
capital available for new operations. 

Orders during the year from Austra- 
lia and New Zealand have been excellent 
and Japan has also bought large quan- 
tities for shipment to China. Good 
business was also done with United 
States early in 1921. British manufac- 
turers like Americans, are at present 
shut out of Germany and Austria by the 
rate of exchange. 

"The brightest spot of the year," 
concluded Mr. Bisset, "was the woollen 
hosiery trade, which has greatly aided 
in stabilizing raw wool prices due to 
unusually large consumptions. Mills 
are running full time and are booked up 
to (he end of next May." 

The delegation arrived in New York 
on January 10th last and since that 
time have been in Philadelphia, Wash- 
ington, Boston, etc., in the States, as 
well as in Montreal, Toronto, Hamilton, 
Niagara in Canada. The trip concluded 
by a visit to Rochester, Cleveland and 
Chicago while the party sai'ed from 
New York on February 14th for home. 
During their stay in Montreal the party 
were entertained by the Canadian Asso- 
ciation of British Manufacturers and 
the Montreal Board of Trade as well as 
the Association of British agents and 
His Majesty's Senior Trade Commis- 
sioner, Mr. Milne. 

During the course of the dinner ten- 
dered to the delegates by the Associa- 
tion of British Agents in Montreal, W. 
Thow Munto, the Chairman, gave an ad- 
dress which was listened to with un- 
usual interest. 

Mr. Munro said that the two main 
purposes of the delegation in Canada 
were to become acquainted with busi- 
ness men, and to become acquainted 
with trade condi'ions here. He thought 
it most important that business men 
from both sides of the At'antic were 
getting to know each other more intim- 

"We are, no doubt, insular," said Mr. 
Munro, "and possibly a little egotistical; 
and for these reasons we have probably 

suffered from insufficiency in supplying 
the foreign markets. I maintain, how- 
ever, that the greatest factor in selling 
is trust in the seller, and I would a 
thousand times rather be regarded as 
slow and insular, than not maintain 
that reputation for integrity which the 
British business man enjoys." 

John H. Shaw, one of the original 
founders of the British Agents' Asso- 
ciation, outlined the work performed by 
that body during the twenty years of 
its; existence. It was felt that such an 
institution was necessary on account of 
the absurd jealousies then rampant 
among the agents representing British 
firms in this country. They were now, 
he said, in close touch with each other, 
and were able, through concerted action, 
to deal wi h laws considered unjust or 
not in the interests of inter-Empire 
trade. He instanced several cases 
where the association had protested in 
this manner, and obtained concessions 
which had been a great benefit to t 
general trade. In one case — that of the 
Banking Act — he said that the associa- 
tion had Tiot been successful in its at- 
tempts at amending this law. He 
thought that the shipper of goods 
should have the priority of right of pay- 
ment, and that the hypothecation of 
goods by the banks was not a fair meas- 

Black Eye to Credit 

"It is no good mincing matters," said 
the speaker, "there are some of our 
laws which give a great big black eye 
to Canada's credit." 

F. H. Bisset, secretary of the Scottish 
delegation, in a witty speech, said that 
the clothing industry, which his group 
was representing, was as necessary as 
food — even though the opposite sex 
seemed doubtful about it just now. He 
was glad to be among countrymen after 
two strenuous 1 weeks in the United 
States, but he felt that good re'ations 
between all the English-speaking peo- 
ples were essential to the trade and the 
civilization of the world. 

Brief addresses were made by Mr. G. 
T. Milne, H. M. senior trade commis- 
sioner in Canada; Messrs. C. J. Glenny 
and J. Laffoley, president of the Dry 
Goodls Association of Montreal. The 
arrangements were in the hands of J. 
Hugh Peattie, honorary secretary of 
the British Agents' Association. Mr 
W. M. Capper presided. 

The Delegates 

The delegation is composed of the fol- 

(Continued on page 37) 



Dry Goods Revieu, 


have been made for one 
are recognized throughout 
most saleable shading. They 
are unshrinkable, fast colors 
and widths. To insure get 
ers are advised to Examine 
Also inside Holland Tab on 
that each bears name of 

hundred and forty years and 
the world as the best and 
are unequalled for quality, 
and made in all colorings 
ting genuine goods, custom- 
Tickets and Paper Bands. 
end of each piece and see 
"John King & Son." 


Made by 



Established 1775 
Canadian Representatives : CAMPBELL, SMIBERT & CO., MONTREAL and TORONTO 

Robert Morton & Sons 


34 Albion Street, Glasgow 


Buckrams - Sparteries - Marlys 



Cables: Morton, Glasgow 

Code: Marconi 



The name "Horrockses" is one of the best 
salesmen in your store. 

As your customers lift the material, feel 
it gently, passing it between finger and 
thumb, they see the name on the selvedge, 
and the sale is closed. 

No one needs to know more about India 
Longcloths, Nainsooks, Cambrics, Diapha- 
lenes, Madapolams or any fine cottons. 
Spring will see the usual big demand for 
Horrockses' goods. Do not hold back your 
order. We will gladly give you the benefit 
of any reductions in prices before shipment 
from Manchester. 

John E. Ritchie 

Canadian Agent, 

591 St. Catherine Street West, Montreal. 
Branches in Toronto and Vancouver. 

United States Agents: 

Wright & Graham Co., 110 Franklin St.. 

New York City. 

Made by 

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Limited 

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers 
Manchester, England 

Dry Goods Review 



The Fine Scotch Underwear 
with the Fine Scotch Finish 


It is nothing to know that'"Pesco" is 
produced in the largest Hosiery fac- 
tories in Scotland. It is much to the 
point that the "Pesco" factories them- 
selves are spacious, lofty, clean, well 
ventilated and provide the ideal con- 
ditions for the production of quality 

Situated in Hawick in the South of Scot- 
land as these factories are, Pesco has, more- 
over, many natural advantages. Workers are 
skilled in their craft and jealous of the repu- 
tation of their productions, technical in- 
struction is free and taken advantage of by 
many, chemical research is proceeding apace. 
the water supply is pure and plentiful, and 
even the atmosphere is fresh and favourable. 
And amongst a hundred other contributory 
causes must surely be mentioned a sturdy 
local patriotism which visibly influences 
character, and through character work. 

Proud of "Pesco"? Certainly! It is the 
life's work of some hundreds of us. 

Sole Makers: 

Peter Scott & Co./ Limited 

Hawick, Scotland 

London (England): Carey House, Carey Lane, E.C. 2 

Agents in Canada: 

Messrs. C. & A. G. Clark, 95 Wellington Street, 

West, Toronto. 
Mr. R. C Poyser, 418 King's Hall Building, St. 

Catherine Street W., Montreal. 
Messrs. Hanley & Mackay Co., Hammond Building 


Showcards, Window Tickets and Literature Supplied. 

Enquiries invited. 

Obtainable In Pure Wool and Silk 
and Wool textures — 

For Ladies — Combinations, Vests, 
Spencers, Bodices, Drawers, Knick- 
ers, Nightdresses, Bib Vests, etc.. 

For Children — Combinations, Night- 
dresses, Sleeping Suits, Shirts, 
Trousers. Knickers, etc., e'c. 

For Infants — Binders, Wraps. Kilt- 
lets. Gowns, etc. 

For Gentlemen — Shirts, Trousers. 
Combinations, etc., etc. 

Pesco Hose and Half Hose in Black. 

Colours and Mixtures 


Pesco Sports Coats. Jumpers, Under- 

vests. Sweater Coats. Scarfs an<' 

Caps In the latest styles and colour 


Guaranteed Unshrinkable 

* •■ i 






We keep up our large variety in 27in., 30in., and 50in. 
Casements. Best value on the market. 


Extensive range in 30in. Domestic and Sateens. 

Specially in 50in. Reversible and 50in. Taffeta Duplex. 
High class and latest styles. 

Through Wholesale and Shipping Only. 


Manchester, England. 

George H. Napier, 417, Coristine Building, MONTREAL 
Andrew Wilson - - - 91, Albert Street, WINNIPEG 

Established over a Cenlury-and-a-half 



Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturer* 

Head Office and Warehouse: 

Telegraphic Address : "Wigibson, Nottingham" 

Factories : — 

Lincoln Street, Nottingham. Cromford Street, 
Nottingham. Castle Donington. 

Gent's, Ladies' and Children's Under- 
wear in Cotton, Lisle, Union Mixture 
and All Wool, in weights to suit all 

Plain and Fancy, Striped and Em- 
broidered Hose and Half Hose, Seam- 
less and Fashioned. 

Registered Brands : 

Agents for Canada: — 

Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto 







Ecru and Colored Madras Muslins, 
Coin Spots and Figured Harness 
Book Muslins Robe Muslins 


Anglo-Swiss and Broche Muslins, 

"Wilsco" Lawns, "Zelette" 








Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers. 

Telegrams : 



Calicoes, Sheetings, Longcloths, Shirtings, Flannelettes, Window 
Hollands, Pillow Cottons, Apron Cloths, Voiles, Gaberdines, 
Poplins, Dress and Casement Fabrics, Tailors' and Dressmakers' 
Linings, Sateens, Cotton Italians, Apron Prints, Printed Pyjama 
and Blouse Fabrics, Dyed and Printed Velvets and Velveteens, 
Plain and Fancy Muslins, Lawns, Nainsooks, Madapolams, 

Cotton Georgette. 

Wholesale and Shipping Supplied. 



Dry Goods Review 






■ ■» 

Dry Goods R 





Manufactured by 





Give this Thread a fair trial and, if 
you desire to gain for your merchandise 
a reputation for durable and depend- 
able qualities, you will realize the wis- 
dom of using "Fountain Brand" Thread 

Walter Williams & Co., Limited 


508 Read Building 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St. 
VANCOUVER, 217 Crown Building 





Manufacturers of all classes of Webs, 
Cords and Bindings, in cotton, wor- 
sted and linen; Curtain Webs, Edg- 
ings, Layon Borders, Blind Cords, 
Carpet Binding, Cotton Banding, etc. 

Original Patentees of 


Agent for Canada: 

Mr. D. F. Moore 

Manchester Building, Melinda Street 

The Mark of Fine Merchandise 

With the March issues 
of leading Canadian 
magazines there will ap- 
pear some striking new 
advertisements for 






(Re ( 


•/ (Reg'd) 

Unshrinkable Flannels 

These goods are partic- 
ularly adapted to meet 
the fashions of the day. 
For Spring 1922 we are 
also showing an exten- 
sive range of English 
cotton shirtings. 

Stock in Toronto 



62 Front Street W., Toronto 

Wm. Hollins & Co., Inc., 45 E. 17th Street, New York 



Dry Goods Review 


Does not 


Will not 


Manufactured by 

George H. Wheatcroft & Co. 

Wirksworth, Eng. 
gives more satisfaction than other 
tapes, is more durable and is, also, 
stronger. Have you tried it? If 
not, one trial will convince you. 





508 Read Bldg, 


20 Wellington St. W. 


533 St. Valier St. 


217 Crown Bldg. 

What the eye 
doesn't see — 

is nevertheless an important factor 
with your cloth. Unless the cloth is 
properly shrunk good tailoring becomes 
wasted labour. 

Why risk your customer's goodwill by 
supplying him with insufficiently 
shrunk cloth with nameless stamps 
such as "Well Shrunk" or "London 
Shrunk" etc? 

The best guarantee and absolute sat- 
isfaction is obtained when the cloth 
bears the name 



The world's premier firm of cloth 
workers, shrinkers, finishers etc., are 
also proprietors of the renowned JBNN- 
WEL Waterproof Rubberless finish ap- 
plied to Tweeds, Serges, Coverts, Fancy 
Worsteds, Costume Cloths etc. 





Manufacturers of REAL DOWN and KAPOK Comforters 

Embroidered and lace insertion BED SPREADS, 


Eagle Chamoisette dusters and polishers 


Messrs. R. H. Ball & Company 

716 Empire Buildings, 

64 Wellington St. West, Toronto, Ont. 

Sole proprietor of "LINWEAR" 
(Reg.) a high-class cotton cloth with 
the wear and appearance of LINEN 

Mist Walton will again be Visiting Canadian Representatives in the Fall 

Send for 

You should be in a position to know what are sound stocks and bonds and 

what are purely speculative — perhaps you can't afford to speculate — If 

not, you must be assured that you are really investing. 

THE FINANCIAL POST specializes in an Inquiry Service noted for its 

accurate and sound replies regarding investment. This service is free at 

all times to subscribeis. 

The careful opinions backed solidly by facts, the accurate news and the 

weekly market reports that appear in THE FINANCIAL POST are your 

sure guides to the knowledge that means safety. 

Send for a sample copy today. The subscription price — $5.00 a year of 

fifty-two issues — is really insurance on your invested money. 


Dry Goods Review 







-the standard product of the British 

Market— 99 

Steadily maintain that irreproachable quality which 
has made them famous and appreciated throughout 
the world. 

The reputation of the makers is a guarantee of the 
worth of Rigg's Sheets. 

Made only of specially selected pure cotton. Contain 
no filling matter whatever. 

RIGG'S SHEETS give most wear with the highest 
degree of comfort. They neither shrink nor roughen. 

Look for the name "Rigg's Sheets" on the selvedge. Accept no substitutes. 

Rigg's Motto: Quality at a Consistent Price \ 

Canadian Agents: 

From Vancouver to Winnipeg: E. W. Dean & Son, 82 
Seymour Street, Vancouver, B.C. 

East of Winnipeg: Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland, 
25 Toronto Street, Toronto. 

Sole Manufacturers: 

Rigg Brothers, Limited 

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers 

since 1836. 

6 Mosley St., Manchester, Eng. 

Cables: Rigg Brothers, Manchester 

^^^^M^^^^m Ba^^^MB M^B ^ M ^ M HHMHBBJ [ 



Dry Goods Review 



Cables: "Woollens Aberdeen" 




London Office: 59 Gresham Street, E. C. 2. Established 1773. 

j 1. ... I .1 11 II 1 II I I I I I 1 111 I I 1 I I I 1 I 1 111 I J i ■ II II 11 I 1 1 II I ■ 1 I I l I I I I I 1 I I I I i( 

TI T f T ! I 1 III I IH I III I I g II I ITT I I I 1 I! I I 1 1 II I T I I I II ITII f ITT 

Pegisrerea No 262 OOS 

1 1 1 1 n t 1 1 m 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 r 1 1 m i f 1 1 1 r 1 1 1,1 1 1 1 1 1 1 

The Hall-Mark of 

Maximum Comfort and 
Durability at Minimum Cost. 


Manufactured on THE GRADUATED 
PRINCIPLE, and Commencing with TWO 
THREADS in the TOP, it increases in 

and the HEEL and TOE FIVE, 
making it essentially 

What do YOU Wish 1 to 


Being in touch with all manufacturers, we 
can furnish you with ROCK BOTTOM 
PRICES. WRITE US your needs" 


4 1 bis Rue de Chateaudun 




T o be had from any of the Leading Wholesale Dry Coods House 



Soft Sole Shoes 
in Kid, Silk, 
Poplin, Wool, 
etc., and Hard 
Sole Shoes, 

Children's Woolly-Wear, Bonnets, 

Gaiters, Mitts, etc. 




Good papers furnish A. B. C. reports to their advertisers. 
Dry Goods Review is a member of the Audit Bureau 
of Circulations. 

Dry Goods Review 






from one of 



TV yf ATERIAL plays as large a 
■*■ part in the production of a 

" selling " suit as the " cut " 
— nothing so conduces to a shabby 
appearance as second-rate fabrics. 

The TWEEDS produced by 
Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., are 
made under ideal conditions by 
highly skilled labour. Every care 
is employed in the selection of 
the right grade of wool and 
scrupulous attention paid to the 
weaving and finishing. 

The dyes are fast to wash and to 
sun, and the material as a whole 
may be entirely relied upon to 
give sterling service under the 
most strenuous conditions. 








Telephone : 
219 MILNSBRIDGE (2 lines). 

Telegrams : 


London Office : 

Telephone : 
P.O. CENTRAL 377. 



Dry Goods Review 








Lon Don 


Tickets of admission] can be 
obtained fromjthe office of 
this paper. 

* ROYAL * 




MAR. 28-AP. 7 




Good Service Brings Success 

EVERY FIRM, to carry on Business 

successfully, must be based on the 

solid foundation of serving a satisfied 

A disappointed customer is often a 
lost customer. 

If our traveller is not in your^ vici- 
nity when you run short of some Jines, 
is at your service. 


Wholesale Dry Goods 

Ask for samples of Fancy Dress Voiles, Beach 
Cloths and Swiss Organdies., 

3gS >< — " ■»■—" — m »c 



The Load ? 

"Y7DU intend buying a truck. 
A You have a varying quan- 
tity and weight to move from 
one place to another in each 
working day. 

Can you transport the necessary 
quantity daily in one ton loads? If so, 
you should buy a Ford One-Ton Truck 
rather than a heavier truck. 

Stake Body 

Platform — 97" x 64 '/£" inside 
measure . racks — 24" high with 
four slats running all around 
platform Sign board 21" x 29" 
on each side of racks. Stakes and 
racks solid hardwood . cab has 
full length doors and double- 
ventilating windshield 




Express Body 

94" x 57" inside measure; 
panels 13" high inside with 7" 
flare board . rear end gate hinged 
and chain fasteners. Heavy mal- 
leable braces on panels and flare 
boards , stringers, panels, etc., 
hardwood. Cab— full length 
doors and double ventilating 
windshield , drop windows in 

Canopy Top Body 

96" x 46" inside measure; 
panels 14" high, flare board 5 Yt" 
high ; top of roof from floor 58". 
drop tail gate, with chain and 
hinges. Top is removable ; side 
rear and driver's storm curtains 
with Parelyn lights; full ventilat- 
ing windshield. 

The first cost of a heavier truck is at 
least three times that of a Ford One- 
Ton Truck. 

A heavier truck demands Unemploy- 
ment of a more expert and conse- 
quently a higher paid driver. 
Theoperating cost of a Ford One-Ton 
Truck is only a fraction of that of the 
heavier truck. 

Service — which is so essential in the 
operation of commercial vehicles — 
is always available "round the cor- 
ner" when you own a Ford Truck. 

Call up the nearest Ford dealer, he can prove these state- 
ments by cold hard figures from the experience of others. 

Dealers are now able to make delivery of the Ford Truck 
Chassis equipped with standard Stake, Express or Canopy 
Top body. 

Ford Motor Company of Canada, Limited, Ford, Ontario 



yMiM ^MM^^^^^^^^^^ 




Our warehouse offers every facility for promptly completing sorting 
orders, and a thoroughly dependable service in connection with ship- 
ment of goods. 

TO C- |Qh>^) 




For the benefit of buyers who may find it convenient to visit the 
Toronto market during February or March we can assuredly state 
that we are fully prepared to demonstrate as a special feature the 
fact that our showing of Wash Goods this season is very exceptional in 
character, variety and value. In consequence, worthy of special con- 
sideration at this time. Further we would announce that all of our 
eight departments have thoroughly complete assortments now on hand 


Including all classes of 









Letter order department always at your service 




Pure Silk and Artificial Silk Hosiery as well 

as Cotton and Thread Hosiery dyed u Hawley's 

Hygienic Black w can now be obtained* 




Tickets, etc., 


this and 



are now 


and supplies 

will be 

gladly sent 

to the 

Offices of 

Dry Goods 





fftye deepest Vye 


Every pair 
bearing Hawley's stamp is 
Warranted Fast & Stainless 
to Washing Wear &Perspiration 

are now 

Every pair is clearly stamped with the name 
"Hawley's" and is a guarantee to the purchaser 
of the Fast and Stainless qualities of the Dye. 

'ry&ooc/s Mpiew 

Volume XXXIV. 


Number 2 

Pioneer Edmonton Firm has Kept Abreast 

With the Latest Development of the Time 

"The Caledonian" of Twenty Years Ago Gave Place to Living- 
ston's Limited and Added "Ladywear" — "Everything in Sight 
and Value for Money Received" — Only Two Sales a Year — 

History of the Store 

THE older residents of Edmonton, 
capital city of Alberta, have, 
among other landmarks, a depart- 
mental store called "The Caledonian," 
owned by Alex. Livingstone. As one of 
the business houses which gained the 
confidence of the public more than twen- 
ty years ago, it has had a somewhat re- 
markable career, in that the owner has 
never for a moment rested on his pion- 
eer reputation. But as the city grew, 
his aim has ever been that his business 
should expand with it, and as the busi- 
ness centres changed somewhat, Mr. 
Livingstone was sure to be on the spot 
almost ahead of the changes. 

So it happened that about five years 
ago, "The Caledonian," located for years 
in the eastern business portion of the 
city, not only changed its location, its 
dress, but also its name. A splendid 
new brick block began to rear its head 
in the very heart of the shopping dis- 
trict — Jasper Avenue, west — just across 
the corner from the Hudson Bay, and 
when completed, the new name that 
shone on the door plate was "Living- 
stone's, Limited." The Caledonian had 
been moved part and parcel from its 
east end location, and with the move 
it took on more of the nature of a spec- 
ialty shop than it had formerly aimed 
at. Livingstone's is a store into which 
the woman shopper may walk and be 
dressed from tip to toe, and not only 
that but she may fit out many depart- 
ments of her home as well. The store 
is exceedingly spacious, airy and well- 
lighted, occupying but one floor — except 
for the offices on the balcony — but 
everything so excellently arranged that 
the floor space is ample for display pur- 

Nothing Spectacular 
The proprietor, Mr. Livingstone, lives 
up to his good Scotch record by aiming 
at nothing spectacular in his store ar- 
rangement, sales, or advertising. His 
object has always been, during his many 
years of business experience in Edmon- 
ton to see that the firm's name was a 

guarantee of quality and square dealing, 
and his patrons are a living testimony 
of his success along these lines. Just 
the same, there is nothing slow about 
the store policy as was demonstrated by 
the first move mentioned, and Living- 
stone's had a further surprise in store 
for the public which materialized about 
a year ago. 

A Second Store 

Bright new stores, lots of window 
space, fresh paint, polished floors, sun- 
light and good air must be Mr. Living- 
stone's hobby — and one might add a 
hobby which catches the public fancy — 
for in possibly the other best location 
in Edmonton (101st St. near the corner 
of Jasper, and with the Market Square 
very near) another brand new store be- 
gan to rear its head about a year ago. 
This one followed the plan of Living- 
stone's Limited on Jasper West, though 
on a somewhat smaller scale, and the 
name which appeared over the door in 
due time was "Ladywear." 

Mr. Livingstone realized that a store 
midway between his old Caledonian 
stand and his present west-end location 
would catch a good deal of the country 
trade in particular, and of the transient 
customers as well, for the C.N.R. depot 
lies a few blocks down the street from 
"Ladywear" and the traveller must 
needs wend her way down town along 
101st street, then the MacDonald Hotel 
— the big Canadian National Railway 
hostel — is not far in the distance. 

Help Yourself 

So the new store made its bow to 
the public particularly as a woman's 
outfitting establishment, a place where 
the visitor to the city, whether from 
town or country could step in, see every- 
thing on display, ticketed, and in good 
open sight, so that she might really 
make her choice without the services of 
an attendant should there be a rush on, 
or she is in a particular hurry. "Lady- 
wear" specializes on the popular price 
garmen 1 - — not the cheap, shoddy article 

— but the dress, suit, or coat which has 
conservative lines, is made of reliable 
materia], and which can be offered to 
the buyer without too much of a strain 
on her pocket book. The farming com- 
munity is, as a rule, more on the look- 
out for value in texture of material than 
the sometimes more casual city shopper. 
The farm woman knows that the coat 
she buys must stand the scuffing of 
many a long ride in her trusty car, that 
her hat must weather many a dust 
storm and rain shower probably, and so 
it is that the windows of "Ladywear" try 
to show the shopper of this kind that 
they have the article she wants both in 
quality and style. 

It is a pretty little shop indeed; light 
greys and creams predominate in the 
store fittings and window settings; there- 
are two comfortable fitting rooms, and 
on the balcony a really tempting mil- 
linery display — ready-to-wear of course.. 
The system is followed of clearing the' 
store of one season's goods to make 
room for the next season's new goods, 
and as there is no extra space in either 
the main store or the branch for the 
storing of old stock, there is no chance 
for "moth and rust to corrupt," and the 
public to have any old goods foisted on 

The two yearly sales then are real 
events. J. F. Harler, advertising man- 
ager, who has been with the firm for 
many years, puts all his energy into 
making them real value-giving events, 
and when the public is once trained to 
expect something really worth while at 
a certain season of the year, half the 
battle is won, and there is nothing much 
further needed than merely to announce 
the sale. Mid-summer, and January then 
are busy times for Livingstone's Lim- 
ited and Ladywear, and after "the shout- 
ing and the tumult" have died away 
there is nothing more to do than to 
sweep out the waste paper, and put in 
the new season's stock. 

(Continued on page 37) 



Dry Goods Review 

A Churches and Charities Contest 

Successfully Operated By The Arcade Of Hamilton — Giving 
Away $5,000 To Churches And Charities— The Nature Of The 
Awards — An Important Change In The Nature Of The Contest — 
Over 5,000,000 Votes Secured — Closing Date An Important 


MAKING it worth while to the 
churches and charities of Hamil- 
ton and vicinity to interest them- 
selves and their friends in a contest has 
been the effort of The Arcade, Limited, 
of Hamilton for a couple of years. In- 
cidentally, it has been worth while to 
The Arcade as well. Along with various 
other activities of this progressive or- 
ganization they conceived this p. an 
whereby the members of many of the 
city and vicinity churches would become 
salesmen and saleswomen for The Ar- 
cade. In other words, the interest which 
could be created in this contest would 
result in actual purchasing at The Ar- 
cade because the various contesting 
churches would not only enlist their own 
membership in a campaign of buying at 
this store, but would get after other 
church members as well whose own 
church might not be a contestant in the 
Church and Charities Contest. The 
Arcade has recently finished the third 
contest of this nature and an evidence 
of the manner in which it has grown is 
shown by the number of votes cast. In 
the first contest there were over 2,500,- 
000 votes cast; in the second over 3,000,- 
000, and in the one just closed over 
5,000,000. The iarge increase during 
the last contest may be explained, par- 
tially, by a new regulation adopted 
which encouraged the smaller churches 
to stay with the campaign tiJ the end. 
Formerly, it was noted that some of the 
smaller churches dropped out before the 
contest ended. 

How It was Launched 

The original contest of The Arcade 
called for the dispensing of $5,000 to the 
churches and charities in Hamilton and 
vicinity by this firm. Of this amount 
$2,000 was for charities; $1,500 to the 
churches of Hamilton, and $1,500 to the 
churches in the vicinity of Hamilton, and 
within a radius of 25 miles. The sales' 
check made out with each purchase of 
merchandise acted as the pivotal point 
of the contest. A ten cent check or any 
multiple of ten cents entitled the church 
member (who must be fifteen years or 
over) to either one vote or to the number 
equal to the division of ten into the mul- 
tiple of ten. Thus, if $1.00 worth of 
merchandise was bought, it entitled the 
church member to ten votes. The con- 
test ran for a number of months and 
closed about the middle of December 
during the last contest, but even later 
than this during the first contest. This 
closing date is rather an important fea- 
ture of the contest which wi.l be men- 
tioned later in this article. 


In a new text-book on the psy- 
chology of advertising an interest- 
ing paragraph occurs of interest 
to the men's wear trade in par- 
ticular. It is headed "Men and 
Women as Purchasers" and states 
that "the only article of clothing 
bought by men exclusively is col- 
lars, whereas 80% of men buy 
their own shoes and hats. In 50% 
of the cases of purchases of men's 
wear, women are the buyers of 
handkerchiefs, socks, underwear 
and jewelry, not the men them- 
selves. In a third of the cases 
where shirts are bought, women 
help to pick them out. To sum up 
these general statistics, it has 
been found that women buy men's 
things exclusively eleven times as 
often as men buy women's things. 
This information should materially 
assist the advertisement writer in 
selecting his view-point and should 
be especially recalled during the 
weeks preceding Christmas and 
Easter when more than the usual 
amount of purchasing of wearing 
apparel is done." 

The awards of the contest were as 
follows: — 

$500 to the charitable institution re- 
ceiving the largest vote. 

$500 to the charitable institution re- 
ceiving the second largest. 

$300 to the charitable institution re- 
ceiving the third largest. 

$200 to the charitable institution re- 
ceiving the fourth largest. 

$100 to the next six charitable institu- 


$500 to the church receiving the larg- 
est vote. 

$300 to the church receiving the se- 
cond largest vote. 

$200 to the church receiving the third 
largest vote. 

$100 to the next three churches re- 
ceiving the largest vote. 

$50 to the next four churches receiv- 
ing the largest vote. 


$500. to the church receiving the larg- 
est vote. 

$300. to the church receiving the se- 
cond largest vote. 

$200 to the church receiving the third 
largest vote. 

$100 to the next three churches receiv- 
ing the largest vote. 

$50 to the next four churches receiving 
the largest vote. 

A Change in Last Contest 

A change was made in the last con- 
test, due to the fact that it was found 
that smaller churches that entered the 
contest dropped out before it was finish- 
ed because they felt they had no chance 
against the larger ones. In the contest 
of 1921, therefore, the churches were 

classified as fol.ows- 


Shall consist of churches having over 

750 members 

$300 to the church receiving the largest 
number of votes. 

$200 to the church receiving the se- 
cond largest number of votes. 

$100 to the church receiving the third 
largest number of votes. 

$50 each to the four churches receiv- 
ing the next largest number of votes 
Shall consist of churches having over 

500 and not more than 750 members 

$300 to the church receiving the larg- 
est number of votes. 

$200 to the church receiving the se- 
cond largest number of votes. 

$100 to the church receiving the third 
largest number of votes. 

$50 each to the two churches receiving 
the next largest number of votes. 
Shall consist of churches having over 

250 and not more than 500 members 

$300 to the church receiving the larg- 
est number of votes. 

$200 to the church receiving the se- 
cond largest number of votes. 

$100 to the church receiving the third 
largest number of votes. 

$50 each to the four churches receiv- 
ing the next largest number of votes. 
Shah consist of all churches with a 

Membership of not over 250 

$300 to the church receiving the larg- 
est number of votes. 

$200 to the Church receiving the se- 
cond largest number of votes. 

$100 to the church receiving the third 
largest number of votes. 

$50 each to the ten churches receiving 
the next largest number of votes. 

In addition to this, $1,600 was given 

to charities directed by the voter. $500 

was the capital award, $400 the second; 

$250 the third; $150 the fourth, and $50 

(Continued on page 37) 

Dry Goods Review 



Ritchie's Long and Honorable Career 

Have Served the People of Quinte District for Upwards of Three- 
Quarters of Century — First Principles Laid Down Have Been Ad- 
hered to Throughout — Transactions on Strictly Cash Basis — The 
Advertising Manager Acquaints The People With Heads of The 


GOOD store publicity was recently 
given the Ritchie Co., Ltd., Belle- 
ville, by their advertising manag- 
er. We cannot do better than outline this 
in the advertising manager's own words, 
accompanied by cuts of the men in charge 
of this very progressive eastern Ontario 
retail firm that, for many years, has 
commanded the respect and patronage 
of many patrons in the Bay of Quinte 


President of the Ritchie Co., Limited 

"For sixty-three years," said the ad- 
vertising manager in a five column ad- 
vertisement in their local paper on 
January 14th, "the old firm of George 
Ritchie & Co., known as the Ritchie Co., 
Ltd., have been serving the people of this 
district, bringing merchandise from al- 
most every country in the world and 
laying it before their many patrons in the 
Bay of Quinte District. 

"Occasionally some lady or elderly 
gentleman will drop into the Company 
store and say, 'I have traded in this store 
ever since it started in business.' These 
old customers are necessarily becoming 
fewer all the time, but the business has 
gone on steadily, forming new constitu- 
encies and a wider range of patronage 
for all these years until it is now recog- 
nized as one of the leading businesses in 

"Not only have the customers chang- 
ed, but the management has changed 
from time to time, and it is a great many 
years since there has been anyone con- 

nected with it that was in the firm at 
the commencement. 

"After the death of George Ritchie in 
1878, the late Thomas Ritchie became 
head of the firm. He gave his active at- 
tention to the firm for a great many 
years, carrying on the same principles 
upon which the business had been found- 
ed, viz.: — Goods bought in the best mar- 
kets, marketed at the closest possible 
prices; equal service for all, rich or poor, 
large or small purchases; one price only; 
and goods to be bought and sold for 

"About fifteen years ago, Mr. Thomas 
Ritchie practically withdrew from active 
work in the Company and Mr. Reid, the 
president, took over the controlling 
stock and became the real head of the 
Company. Mr. Reid has had associated 

5. Exchang2 of any goods that are not 
exactly as represented. 

6. Your money back if you are not 

7. Absolute courtesy at all times no 
matter whether you make purchases or 

8. Prices always the lowest at which 
skilled merchandising, advantageous buy- 
ing, and complete equipment can place 
the goods at your disposal. 

9. Comfort of shopping in a well light- 
ed, well equipped, well ventilated and 
agreeable store. 

"We naturally feel very proud of our 
more than sixty years of business suc- 
cess. Not once in all these years have 
we failed to meet our financial engage- 
ments, nor have we failed to pay one 
hundred cents on the dollar to our cred- 
itors. We are glad to have achieved such 
a long and successful business experi- 

"But we are not satisfied. We shall 
not rest idly on past achievements. We 
shall not allow ourselves to be thought of 
as merely old or reputable. It is not 
enough that we have built up the largest 
business of its kind in this district. 
Cheerfully and courageously we shall 
face the increased responsibilities of 


Managing Director the Ritchie Co., 


with him a lot of splendid men as heads 
of the various departments and these 
men are still with the Company as may 
be seen from the accompanying photo- 
graphs. They are all stockholders in the 
Company and will continue to unitedly 
carry on the business on the same plat- 
form that has made it such a success in 
the past. They will assure the public of: 

1. A square deal in every transaction. 

2. The best service that can possibly 
be rendered. 

3. Business conducted on a strictly 
cash basis. 

4. Absolute dependability of goods sold. 

Manager Men's Department 

building a bigger and better future. We 
shall constantly strive to continue to 
lead, and to be worthy of the increased 
patronage that we are constantly en- 



Dry Goods Review 



"We ask you to note the length of 
service of the various heads of our de- 
partments. We doubt if anywhere in 
Canada a better record can be found. 
Men remain with this Company because 
it is a good place to live. Never is anyone 
asked to do a dishonest or dishonorable 
act. This business has been built, and 
will be continued, on the principle of 
the Golden Rule. 

"We ask for a continuance ol your 
much-valued patronage. We will always 
be at your service with the right goods, 
at the right time, and at prices that you 
may have confidence in." 

A short biographical sketch is given 
of each of the heads of the depart- 
ments in the store and special emphasis 
is laid on the length of time they have 
been with the Ritchie Company. It is a 
fact worth noting that the combined ser- 
vice of these gentlemen with the firm 
totals 144 years. 


(Continued on page 14) 
cost of production. The business we do 
is in the very highest class of Scottish 
woollens and if the market is not ready 
for this kind of merchandise at the pre- 
sent time we will have to au revoir and 
come back again at a later date. We 
cannot come down to mass production 
first, because we are not in a position 
to do so; and second, because it is not 
in the blood to do so and with us that 
is the more important point." In con- 
clusion, Mr. Munroi referred to some of 
the difficulties they were experiencing 
in the different markets of the world. 

Sir James Woods 

Prior to Mr. Munro's reply to the var- 
ious speakers of the afternoon, Sir 
James Woods, President of the Gordon 
MacKay Co., Ltd., Toronto, spoke on 
behalf of the wholesale Dry Goods 
Trade of Toronto. He said he was glad 


Manager Ladies Ready-to Wear 


Manager Dress Goods Department 

to welcome the delegation on behalf of 
the Dry Goods trade, particularly be- 
cause of the relationships that existed 
between two parts of a great empire. 
He hoped this would not be the last de- 
legation of business men from the old 
land to visit Canada to strengthen the 
hands of trade across seas. Referring to 
trade conditions, Sir James referred to 
the Fordney Bill that has recently been 
passed by the congress of the United 
States; during the last seven months, 
he said, there had been an alarming 
falling off in exports from Canada to the 
United States. The Motherland, on the 
other hand, was the one sure customer; 
but it could not be expected that we 
would receive a great deal of trade from 
there if we, in turn, did not trade more 
extensively with the United Kingdom. 


Manager Carpet, Rug, Furniture 

and Drapery Department 

"Your coming here in the prosecution 
of a campaign to protect a name," said 
Sir James, "is, along the lines of ad- 
vertising, one of the best things I have 
ever known. You are building up to a 
standard and not coming down to a price. 
The fact that you will not allow any one 
to become a member of your association 
who does not agree to live up to a high 
standard is an assurance, I think, that 
your trade mark will not suffer." 

T. W. Learie 

T. W. Learie of the W. R. Johnston 
Co., Ltd., of Toronto, spoke on behalf of 
the clothing manufacturers of the city 
and, in their name extended a welcome 
to the de.egates. He highly commended 
the banding together of these Scottish 
manufacturers for the simple purpose 
of protecting a trad« mark and all it 
meant to the quality of their merchant- 
ddse. He felt that such a step would not 
fail to enlist the active interest of Can- 
adian business men. 

As an indication to the visitors of the 
extent of the Canadian clothing trade, 
Mr. Learie referred to some statistics^ 
that would be worth while their consid- 
ering. In 1910, the investment in the 
clothing industry in Canada amounted 
to $16,350,000, and in 1919 it was $38,- 
629,000. In 1910, they had manufactur- 
ed goods to the value of $33,745,000 and 
in 1919, $70,498,000. Seventy per cent, 
of the clothing trade was the ready-to- 
wear in comparison with the tailor made 
clothes. In 1918, Canadian c.othing 
manufacturers purchased in the raw 
material state $25,422,000 worth of 
goods while in 1919 it was $16,836,000, 
"We have a market here worth develop- 
ing," said Mr. Learie. 

John O'Connor 

Speaking for the retail trade, John 

O'Connor of the Murray Kay, Co., Ltd., 

of Toronto, commended the traditional 

policy of the Scottish woollen manufac- 

( Continued on page 37) 

Dry Goods Review 




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Single Copies, 25 cents. 


Turn In The Road 

THE MANAGING director of one of the large 
wholesale houses in Canada who is also the director 
of one of the chartered 1 banks of this country made 
the statement to Dry Goods Review a few days ago that 
he believed the turn of the road had been reached. He 
believes business has definitely started on the upward 
grade. His opinion is formed, not by events that are 
transpiring in the large centres of population, but by 
things that are happening in the more strictly rural por- 
tions of the country; and it is worth while remember- 
ing that prosperity in this country begins with improv- 
ing conditions in agricultural areas. His opinion is con- 
firmed by reports that reach him from the travellers 
of his own house — and he takes it for granted that other 
houses are meeting with as favorable responses from the 
trade all over the country. From two departments in an 
ordinary sized store in Ontario, one of their travellers 
booked $15,000 worth of business — and this retailer 
was not more their customer than any other wholesaler 
house in the country. 

The reason assigned for the opinion of this man is, 
to use his own words, "the farmer has come out of his 
sulks." For a loug time the farmer has sulked. His 
produce was about the first to hit the toboggan slide of 
prices and it hit hard. In comparison with many other 
commodities, the farmer has not heen receiving a fair 
price for his productive effort. This knowledge not only 
engendered a feeling of resentment to "the city*' but it 
found expression in his refusal to purchase absolute re- 
quirements. Over a year ago Premier Drury in address- 
ing the Credit Men's Association in Toronto stated that 
the farmers in this province — he knew it for a fact — 
were refusing to buy many things they needed because 
they believed prices were too high, and he went on to 
say that they would not buy till they believed prices 
were down to a reasonable basis. 

Much water has run under London bridge since that 
speech. Prices have come down materially in nearly 
all, if not all, commodities. The farmer believes, at last, 
that prices are down to a reasonable basis with produc- 
tive costs what they are, with high railway rates and 
with other high costs that enter into the selling price. 

And being convinced that this is so, he is going into the 
market again to buy. 

If this statement of the case is really as presented, it 
is a harbinger of steadily improving business conditions 
in this country. 

Still Taking Losses 

THE CHARGE has too frequently been made 
against the retail trade of this country that they, 
have not taken their losses during the last eighteen 
months when all markets have been on the decline. In 
some cases, this charge has been all too true. There have 
been some merchants who have been tardy in marking 
down their merchandise to a figure anything like re- 
placement values. They will be the chief sufferers of 
this unwise step, for, in the meantime, competitors have 
done so and have added to their sales and their regular 
store friends by so doing. 

A visit to many of the dry goods stores in this prov- 
ince at the present time would convince the doubting 
that retail dry goods merchants have taken their losses 
and, what is more, are still taking them. This and Janu- 
ary are the months for stock-taking in man t y stores. Dry 
Goods Review has been in many of these stores during 
the last six weeks and has seen merchant^ still taking 
losses on lines of merchandise that show a lower market 
value than when they were last listed in stock. They are 
hopeful that this may be the last one they will have to 
take for it probably includes the last bits of merchandise 
that were purchased at prices anywhere near the peak. 
These losses are not being taken by aggressive merchants 
on many of their lines — only on a few. They have clear- 
ed their stocks and are in the market to buy frequently 
and when the price suits them. There is one thing in 
addition that should not be forgotten — the retailer wants 
to see a market for the thing he expects to buy before 
he buys it. Hence, he buys from hand to mouth. 

Look For More Profits 

KEEN MERCHANDISING men who have their 
stocks in the proper shape are looking for more 
profits this year than last, not a wider margin of 
profit but a more profitable year. They have taken their 
losses, the last of them in the stock-taking they have 
just finished or are finishing this month. The bulk of 
these losses were absorbed during the financial year of 
1921 and all the profits that were made would not off- 
set this marking down to meet replacement value. 

This year, however, they do not believe that such 
losses will have to be taken. They do not contend that 
there will not be some fall in prices in some lines; but 
they do know that their stocks are in such shape and 
their buying policy is so regulated that nothing could 
possibly happen that they would have to assume heavy 
losses again. They are operating on a sixty or ninety 
days policy ; some departments are on a thirty days policy. 
Their contention is, therefore, that they can make 
some profit during the financial year of 1922. They 
will go into the market frequently and purchase merch- 
andise at a fair price and make a fair profit on it. Not 
forgetting that quality is a bigger factor in the con- 
sumer's mind as time goes on, they are not forgetful of 
the fact, either, that price is a big consideration and a. 
big drawing card at the present time. They figure that 
they may sell less merchandise than last year, but that 
there will be a profit in it against which thev will not 
have to set other heavy losses as a result of falling prices 
on stocks that are heavy on their shelves. 



Dry Goods Revie' 

Dry Goods Markets at a Glance 

Retailer Calling in Stock Before Making Further Commitments — 
Novelties in Fabrics Still Lead — Homespuns Active and Crepe 
Silks Going Well — Guaranteed Price by Canadian Carpet Mills 
— Manufacturers of Silk Lingerie Active — Ready-to-Wear Busi- 
ness Opening Up 

FEBRUARY in the wholesale houses is usually a 
quiet month. A traveller went into a certain retail 
house a few days ago and found the proprietor 
busily engaged in calling in stock. "I won't stop this 
job for the best traveller on the road; you'll have to call 
again," said the proprietor without more than looking 
up. That is one of the big causes for a quiet February. 
Retailers are in the middle of stock-taking and they want 
to see how they stand before they make any more com- 
mitments. With them, too, it is between seasons when 
Winter is just hanging on by its teeth and Spring is in 
the offing. If a garment or article can be made to 
hang together till Spring, it is made to do so. Trade 
is hard, almost impossible to force. 

Activity in the wholesale houses centres round the 
delivery or placing orders for Spring merchandise. 
They still expect to do a good sorting business, however; 
the amount of placing, comparatively, has been small; 
and when seasonal merchandise begins to move or to be 
in demand, they look for good business. During the 
last few weeks, Dry Goods Review has seen manv of the 
reserve stocks held by merchants in Ontario. They are 
very small, indeed, and if Spring business opens up fav- 
orably, there will be some lively orders placed with a, 
request for immediate delivery. 


Novelties in fabrics are still in good demand both with 
the specialty houses and the wholesalers. The early 
Spring buyer from the retailer is looking for the newest 
things in fabrics and the retailer is preparing to meet 
the requirements of that buyer. Bright colors are es- 
pecially good in the plain colors. Stripes, plaids and 
checks of all descriptions have had a good run. Staple 
lines are held up for the time being but they will have 
their innings when the season is more advanced, so 
wholesalers say. The whole woollen market points to 
greater stabilization. There have been advances during 
the last few weeks which would indicate this. Whole- 
sale buyers who are looking ahead look for very firm 
prices as far as they are able to see. They do not scout 
the idea of fluctuations, but believe they 'will be slight. 

The silk market still continues to hold its own. Trad- 
ing in the far eastern markets recently has been dull 
almost to the point of stagnation and buyers on the 
New York market are purchasing only their immediate 
requirements. Prices, up to this time, have not been 
affected to any extent by this condition. Local whole- 
sale houses report a shortage of pongees. Some new 
creations in silks from the English market are being; 
shown to the trade and seem to be meeting with a fair 

An evidence of the care that' has been exercised by re- 
tailers in placings was seen in one of the wholesale 
houses recently. Whereas formerly whole pieces of 
wash goods would be taken, retailers are asking for half 
pieces. The result of this is that some of the wholesale 
houses are late in their deliveries of these goods. 

Wholesale houses report that some of the Canadian 
mills are away behind in their deliveries of factory 
cottons. There have been no changes in staple cotton 
prices during the past month and in the primary 
markets, raw cotton has been quite firm. 
Knit Goods 

The Canadian carpet mills have assured the whole- 
salers that their prices will remain firm until, at least, 
the first of July. Last year this guarantee was given 
only till the end of March but with a feeling that condi- 
tions are more stable this year, they have extended the 
date till July. Wholesalers state that the 'better grade 
rugs are selling more freely. Wilton and Axminsters 
are moving fairly well but the tapestry rugs are slow. 
There is a feeling in certain quarters that this will be a 
good year for floor coverings because of the better pat- 
terns shown and the greater economy of these for house- 
hold use. 

Some of the Canadian manufacturers of tapestry drap- 
eries are showing fabrics that are very creditable to 
them and they are meeting with good success in the 
marketing of them to the trade. 

Novel designs in cretonnes are still being featured 
and some of them might well Le used for dresses as well 
as draperies for they are very much after dres- pat- 
terns. While many of the larger firms that place their 
orders direct with foreign houses have booked for the 
Spring, wholesalers say that many of the merchant? 
throughout the country have not yet hought their Spring 
requirements of curtains and draperies. Curtains have 
moved slowly. Some of the English houses are show- 
ing some neat designs at tempting prices to the Cana- 
dian trade at the present time and are meeting with 
fair success. 

Manufacurers' agents handling various linen lines 
say that the price tendency still continues firm. They 
believe that the manufacturers are about to begin opera- 
tions on a more extensive scale because of business in 
sight and the condition of stocks generally which are re- 
ported very low. One agent stated to Dry Goods Re- 
view that their stock sheets pointed to almost empty 
shelves in the warehouses. Merchants are not doin ^ a 
great deal of buying at the present time. 

Home Furnishings 

Manufacturers stale that the wholesalers are placing 
more freely with them than they have done for many 
months past, in fact, one agent stated that he had book- 
ed three times as much trade with the wholesaler this 
year than he hod done last year. The sweater trade has 
not opened out very strongly yet but wholesalers believe 
that this end of the knit goods business will come into 
its own in due lime. The pullover style is becoming a 
strong rival of the tuxedo and some very new creations 
of this are being seen. Eor the present, many new 
designs in bathing suits are being shown and business 
in the seaside dress i< exceedingly good. In som° indus- 
trial centres in Ontario the knit goods men are the only, 

Dry Goods Review 



or practically the only, factories running on anything 
like ful] time. The February issue of Dry Goods Re- 
view is the special knit goods number anJ. we would 
call your particular attention to this section this month. 
The latest information we have been able to -eeure is 
contained in this section, together with some illustra- 
tions of new goods. 

Manufacturers of silk underwear are exceedingly op- 
timistic of the future and say that the retailer has barely 
begun to realize the profits on these lines. It is the case 
that new firms are springing up almost daily or old 
firms are adding special machinery for the manufacture 
of silk lingerie. New garments are constantly on the 

market and are eagerly examined by the trade. Manu- 
facturers of these lines are enjoying a fairly good busi- 
ness and look for it to develop as the year progresses. 
Ready-To- Wear 
Keady to wear trade for the retailer is beginning to 
open up nicely. Firms report active buying by the con- 
sumer. Taffeta dresses are selling well, though the 
price is somewhat against them to date. Crepe effect* 
are also moving well and the recent advance in the price 
of crepe silks has advanced the prices of dresses to a 
higher figure than was expected at the first of the 
season. Manufacturers are busy with their Spring trade 
and believe that the season is going to be a better one 
than a year ago. 


(Continued from page 31) 
The special appeal to the public made 
by the system of running the Living- 
stone stores, is "everything in sight, 
and value for money received." For 
instance when the west end store puts 
its new spring models on display the 
splendid window space — it is a corner 
store with eight beautiful windows — is 
entirely devoted to these gowns and 
suits. When you enter the store, and 
go to the ready-to-wear department, 
again everything is in open display and 
good light; there is no chance for any 
"piling-up" process of unsold models, 
and the buying policy of the store is to 
keep within the limit of sales, so that 
the most up-to-date is constantly on 

You have only to speak to Mr. Living- 
stone to have a good chance on a guess 
at the county in old Scotia from which 
he hails, and then you recall the name 
of his first establishment — the Caledon- 
ian. This store meant a great deal to 
the shopping public of Edmonton twenty 
years ago. It was a very large depart- 
mental establishment, of big area, and 
carrying everything from a button hook 
to a Persian rug, with wearing apparel 
for the whole family of course. Mr. 
Livingstone made his first friends, and 
gained his reputation here, and while his 
new stores are, as before stated, more 
exclusive, and cater more to the spec- 
iality lines, there were many old east 
end friends who rued the day the Cal- 
edonian dissappeared from Namayo 
Avenue to put on its more aristocratic 
down-town dress. 

The aforesaid Scotch temperament of 
the proprietor has enabled him to gauge 
the wants of his buying public to a 
nicety, to keep in touch with the moving 
business centres, and never to let his 
establishments take a back seat by a 
lack of innovations to keep them right 
up-to-date. The success of the business 
probably depends as much as anything 
else on Mr. Livingstone's ability as a 
keen buyer, with an eye on the public 
requirements which never gets him "in 
bad" with unsaleable stock, or poor val- 
ues. There is nothing of the spectacu- 
lar ever aimed at in the Livingstone 
business, consequently it has held the 

confidence of the public through bad 
times and good. 

A City Father 

Mr. Livingstone has always taken a 
keen interest in public and welfare ac- 
tivities in the city of Edmonton too; he 
has acted on the city council for differ- 
ent terms, being Chairman of the Health 
Committee for two years, and filling this 
position with his customary energy and 
thoroughness in the "clean-up" line. 
Mr. Livingstone is also a member of 
some of the fraternal societies — the St. 
Andrews not being among the missed 
out of course — and is an enthusiastic 
golfer. Any city is the better for busi- 
ness men of the type of Mr. Livingstone, 
a type standing for fair dealing, integ- 
rity, and business enterprise with a solid 



(Continued from page 15) 
W. Thow Munro, of Munro & Co., 
Ltd., Edinburgh; C. J. Glenny, of Wil- 
son & Glenny, Ltd., Hawick; Tom H. 
Ballantyne, of D. Ballantyne Bros. & 
Co., Ltd., Peebles; A. L. Brown, of 
Brown Bros., Galashiels; M. M. Thor- 
burn of Edward Gardiner & Sons, Ltd., 
Selkirk; Robert White, of Gibson & 
Lumgair, Ld., Selkirk; Robert Sim, of 
Heather Mills Co., Selkirk; Geo. Alex. 
Hunter, of Hunter & Co., Galashiels; 
W. R. Ovens, of Ovens & Shaw, Gala- 
shiels; Gi'bert Paterson, jr., of J. & D. 
Paton & Co., Ltd., Tillicou'try; A. J. 
Sanderson, of P. & R. Sanderson, Gala- 
shiels; Robert S. Hayward, of R. & A. 
Sanderson & Co., Galashiels; Charles P. 
Sanderson, of Sime, Sanderson & Co., 
Ltd., Galashielsi; George Rae, of Sime, 
Wiliamson & Co., Ltd., Hawick; Robert 
Christie of Simpson & Fairburn, Ltd. 
Earlston; G. Washington Gray, of 
B'enkhorn, Richardson & Co., Ltd., Ha- 
wick, and F. H. Bisset, secretary of the 

test. Between the 1920 contest and the 
one in 1921, there was a difference of 
about 2,000,000 votes. 

An Additional Feature 

One of the features of this contest was 
the value of the sales' check to the hold- 
er. As a matter of fact, it was worth 
two and a half per cent, of its face value. 
If a person presented $50.00 worth of 
checks, he not only received a coupon en- 
titling him to 500 votes in the cost but 
a merchandise coupon as well which en- 
titled him to $1.25 worth of merchan- 
dise in the store. The Arcade encourag- 
ed their customers to save up these cou- 
pons and present them in December as 
an aid to the fund for Christmas pre- 
sents. It is at this point that mention 
may be made of the closing date of the 
contest. The Arcade feel that the clos- 
ing date should be made early in De- 
cember — at least not later than the 10th 
of the month — so that ear^y Christmas 
buying would result. It can be under- 
stood that the presentation of hundreds 
of thousands of votes in a very busy 
month would entail a good deal of time 
when that time might be better spent. 
It is for this reason that they believe 
the contest would be of more benefit to 
the organization attempting it if the 
closing date were made early in Decem- 
ber. They found out that fully 90 per 
cent, of these checks were presented 
during the month of December. 


(Continued from page 32) 
each to the next six. By the re-classi- 
fication many more hundreds of thou- 
sands of votes were added to the con- 



(Continued from page 34) 
turer represented — that of giving 16 
ounces to the ipound and twenty shil- 
lings to the pound sterling. 

He said that had been the policy of 
the firm he had the honor to represent 
for years. There was no other trade 
that had the hazards of the retail trade. 
He believed that to a very large degree 
the retail trade of this country was can- 
ducted on a vei-y high plane. There had 
been propaganda that called the retail- 
ers profiteers but the fact remained that 
an investigation by Harvard University 
of 305 retail establishments in the Unit- 
ed States and Canada of firms doing- 
business ranging from a few thousand 
dollars to over $29,000,000 had shown 
that the average net profit on turnover 
was less than 5 per cent. 



Dry Goods Review 

Advertises by Means of Hand Bills Distributed 
To Worshippers as They Come Out of Church 

Only Available Method Used By St. Hyacinthe Merchant — Big 
Bulk of Trade Friday and Saturday And Weekly Papers No 
Good For Advertising Sales For These Days — Church Sextons 

Distribute Hand Bills 

ABOUT an hour's journey from Mon- 
treal is situated the town of St. Hya- 
cinthe which as everybody knows is 
a very important manufacturing centre, fam- 
ous as the home of nationally advertised 
goods of all sorts. The population of this 
town is given by various authorities as be- 
tween 11,000 and 13,000, which denotes 
a population of considerable size as Canad- 
ian towns go. Owing to the presence of so 
many important factories in the town, there 
is little unemployment among the people and 
even in these hard times all the industries 
have operated on half time or more continu- 
ally. Still, in the face of these facts, it is 
notable that there is but one men's furnish- 
ing store in the place and the bulk of the 
haberdashery purchased in the town is 
bought at a small department store in which 
nothing costs more than $1. Nobody can 
account for this state of affairs, still less the 
manager of the department store in question, 
who is on intimate terms with the proprietor 
of the shop which caters exclusively t o men 
and who has no desire to take away his trade. 

75% of Men's Wear Bought by Women 

To a staff member of Dry Goods Review 
the former explained his views on the sub- 
ject. "Since I began business here I have 
found that over 75% of the women of St. 
Hyacinthe buy men's things. And the oth- 
er 25% do the actual purchasing when ac- 
companied by their husbands or sons. The 
men apparently have nothing to say in the 
matter, standing back and merely paying 
for the article selected. When this store 
was opened last year, we quickly discovered 
that it would pay us to concentrate more 
upon men's lines, so we transferred the sec- 
tion to the front door in the hope that men 
might feel more inclined to shop for them- 
selves without feeling embarrassed in the 
presence of women. But though sales of 
underwear, hose, shirts, etc. have gone on 
increasing, I cannot say that the men them- 
selves are doing any more shopping than 
they did. This disposition to pay so little 
for their furnishings is due, I think, to an 
innate spirit of thrift. The French Can- 
adian of these parts is careful of his money, 
and only spends so much of what he earns, 
saving as much as he can. If he finds 
that a suit of underwear of heavy wool can 
be bought at our store for one dollar, he 
would not dream of going to another 
and paying a few cents more for it. Con- 
sequently, our business is becoming very 
popular with the people of the place and the 
outside farming community simply because 
we sell the kind of goods they want at the 
lowest price possible." 

Ties Sell Best 

Asked what lines sold best, the manager 

of this store said that ties were probably 
the best sellers. "I am told that we sell 
more ties than all the other shops put to- 
gether here," he remarked, "and I attrib- 
ute it to the fact that we can sell a really 
good flowing-end tie for as low as 59 cents, 
in neat color combinations which appeal to 
French tastes. The bow-tie also, is very 
popular and we can scarcely get enough of 
them to satisfy us. Heavy underwear is 
another very good seller as well as socks of 
the heavier wool sorts and as for overalls, I 
imagine we must have sold practically all 
that are worn here, as we have none left and 
unfortunately cannot secure any more at 
the former low price." Negligee shirts 
priced at $1.00 apiece are sold rapidly in half 
dozen lots, to the women purchasers who 
consider them excellent bargains. It is 
seldom that a French Canadian woman buys 
anything singly, she always likes to buy in 
bulk, either threes or half dozens." 

Church Sextons Distribute Handbills 

"We have a curious way of securing our 
publicity in this town," continued the man- 
ager. "Owing to the fact that our three 
newspapers are only published weekly, they 
are not much good to us as advertising med- 
iums. The great business days here are Fri- 
day and Saturday when the market is open 
and swarms of country people for some 20 
miles around come to town with their prod- 
uce. The papers appear on Saturdays, too 
late to reach the country people until the 
following Monday, and too late to feature 
any sales or bargains for the Friday, so we 
are obliged to find other ways to get the 
necessary publicity. However, it is an es- 
1 ablished custom down here to engage a man 
to distribute 'dodgers' or handbills hrough- 
out the different villages, these being en- 
trusted to the sextons of the different parish 
churches, who in turn distribute them to 
the farmers and their families as they come 
out of church each Sunday morning. The 
farmer is a man who never throws anything 
away. He puts the handbill into his pocket 
and when he arrives home, the family study 
it and compare notes on the different bar- 
gains printed thereon, so that when they 
arrive in town on the following Friday, they 
know exactly what they want to get. Our 
windows, of course, have to be filled with all 
sorts and varieties of merchandise, because 
quantity appeals to them rather than art- 
istic display. It all simmers down to the 
price asked, and if that is right then it makes 
no difference whatever about the atmosphere 
of the store, the service or anything which is 
usually understood to affect the successful 
selling of merchandise. On this account, I 
expect to develop our men's furnishings de- 
partment by degrees, since I have found the 
secret of catering to the habitant's needs." 




The extra wide width of this garter, to- 
gether with the new style of fastening 
which can be adjusted in a second com- 
mends it to the consideration of trade. 
Shown by Courtesy of the Arrow Gar- 
ter Mfg. Co., of Montreal. 


They pay your salary and sup- 
port the organization. 

Without customers the store 
would cease to exist. 

Customers as a rule have a 
clear and definite idea of what 
they want. 

If argued with or contradicted 
they will return to buy no more. 

Customers are hard to attract 
and not easy to retain. 

One pleased customer tells an- 
other, thus they multiply 

A feeling of good will is instill- 

There is no reason for havfhg 
them feel otherwise. 

Displeased cutomers can wreck 
a business in short order. 

No one likes to have their judg- 
ment questioned. 

A store makes money from its 
friends; enemies trade elsewhere. 

It is the only way a business 
will thrive and prosper. 

The customer develops a kindly 
feeling for the sales clerk. 

Dry Goods Review 



Display Will Play Big Part in Spring Openings 
And in Usual Celebration of St. Patrick's Day 

Methods of Getting Results Suggested — Don't Delay The Spring 
Opening Too Long — How a Window Can be Dressed for St. 
Patrick's Day — Featuring Different Spring Displays — Use of 

Price Tickets 

OWING to the fact that Easter 
occurs somewhat later than usual 
this year, namely, in the middle oi 
April, the retailer of men's wear will 
have to reckon with an "in between" 
period following upon the January clear- 
ance sales. It is felt to be inadvisable 
to begin preparations for the Easter 
trade too early, and yet should the 
weather man take it into his head to 
send along several weeks of glorious 
sunshine in late March, the retailer is 
apt to be caught napping. There's n(o 
reason whatever for leaving (prepara- 
tions for Spring trade until the last ten 
days before Easter. The preceding week 
before this season is a very short one, 
and every man finds out almost in the 
same week that his suit looks worn and 
his last season's top-coat is in the same 
condition or else that he will need a 
new hat or shirt or gloves. Hence the 
rush during one short week or two. 

According to a display manager in 
one of Montreal's largest department 
stores, a new policy will be followed 
this Spring in this regard. Instead of 
saving up the new goods until the last 
of Marclh, they intend to feature displays 
at the beginning of the month. Their 
plan will be to begin to interest the 
public in the new styles and novelties by 
degrees until the regular formal Spring 
opening is announced around the 20th of 

St. Patrick's Day 

According to the display manager of 
this store, he intends to pay more atten- 
tion to special displays than formerly, 
even through the goods featured are 
nev.her exclusive nor expensive. He 
mentioned the fact that St. Patrick's Day 
will practically coincide wtih the dates 
selected for the Spring openings and he 
advocated the lavish use of green along 
with other Spring decorations in order 
to link up the idea and emphasize the 
color note in displays. "We have more 
reason than ever to be wearing the 
green this year, since things have im- 
proved over there," he added. 

Everyone is familiar with the type of 
accessories appropriate to the day, but 
it may be worth while to reiterate 
some of them. First and foremost, 
there should be a harp, a real Irish harp 
if such can be borrowed for the occasion. 
This instrument should centre the display 
of clothing or furnishings, tied with a 
large bow of emerald ribbon. Such a 
trim as this was featured by the R. J. 
Tooke store on St. Catherine St. West, 
and was a source of great interest to 

This is an excellent occasion upon 
which to feaure Irish-made goods in 
window disp ays. Coupled with the 
date and the decorations, the merchan- 
dise will take on an added significance, 
especially Irish linen handkerchiefs or 
Donegal tweeds or even green neckwear. 
Linen collars are also properly included 
in such a disp ay. The idea underly- 
ing the display should not be mere show 
but to make sales. 

Suitable Decorations 

The minor accessories which belong 
properly to such displays as this are 
shamrocks, Irish flags, clay pipes — the 
Irishman's Dudeen, silk hats, pigs, po- 
tatoes, shil'elaghs and pictures of Paddy 
and his colleen. The phrases "Erin- 
Go-Bragth" and "Erin Mavourneen" are 
appropriate for showcards. 

For the Spring opening proper, the 
consensus of opinion among Montreal 
men this year, tends to the belief that 
they must exert themselves more than 
usual in order to get results. The less 
demand there is for merchandise the 
greater the effort that must be put for- 
ward to make sales. An attractive 
background or setting gains the atten- 
tion of the possible buyer, they say, and 
the charm of a setting enhances the val- 
ue of the merchandise in the eyes of the 
beholder. There will be a general over- 
hauling of display windows, fresh var- 
nish and paint will be applied and any 
leaks, cracks or scratches eliminated. If 
f oors are too high or too low this will 
be remedied, while the lighting will also 
be examined. In many cases new 
fronts are going to be constructed in the 
smaller stores. The store's name will 
be repainted or a new brass sign order- 
ed. Rejuvenation will be the order of 
the day. 

Then, when the Easter season arrives 
the store will be in readiness for a big 
Spring campaign. One Montreal man 
is planning to feature a different dis- 
play in each of his windows appropriate 
to a different class of goods. One 

window will include sports clothes, 
showing a go'fer, a fisherman and a fig- 
ure in riding habit, together with the cor- 
rect accessories for the Winter sports. 
Another will show formal dress for Eas- 
ter Day, including the correct morning 
coat, silk ha% grey trousers and haber- 
dashery. A third window is to show 
ordinary business clothes for Spring, 
1922, among which it is said the staple 
navy blue suit will be very prominent. 
These three windows are to be featured 
for the Spring opening with no other de- 
corative note than the use of quantities 

of real flowers. Most display men are 
of the opinion that artificial flowers are 
out of place in the men's stores but 
agree that potted plants such as lilies, 
tulips, daffodils or azaleas are good, 
when in conjunction with pieces of furni- 
ture or a pedestal. 

The more exclusive men's wear stores 
of Montreal will not alter their legular 
plans for displays in honor of the 
Easter season, but will continue to show 
smart merchandise m the usual man- 
ner, without the aid of more than an 
artistic show card announcing the 
"Spring Showing." The colors that will 
predominate will be white and purple 
or white and mauve, and neckwear, 
shirts, socks, etc., will be featured in 
these combinations almost exclusively. 

The use of wax forms for showing 
men's clothing is growing slowly in 
Montreal, although confined to very few 
stores as yet. One or two display man- 
agers have a decided antipathy to using 
them, stating that they prefer to em- 
ploy a headless form with the necks 
softly draped. With the recent intro- 
duction to this country of French and 
other wax figures representing men of 
life-like appearance, it is likely, however, 
that these aids to better display will 
become more widely used in stores which 
possess sufficient window space to show 
them to advantage. In this connection 
it might be noted that at the recent 
Exposition of French products in Mont- 
real, several persons were completely 
deceived regarding a striking figure 
clad in a luxurious lounging robe, and 
actually touched him to see if he were 
alive or not. 

"Easter" and "Spring" Openings 

The main thing to remember in con- 
nection with Easter displays as apart 
and distinct from ordinary Spring open- 
ings, is the fact that Easter is a re- 
ligious festival, and that the ideas used 
to accentuate the season must not be 
overdone, nor exaggerated so as to be 
extreme and even ridiculous. Rabbits 
and chickens are appropriate enough but 
are out of place in the men's store, 
whereas the simple use of flowers, soft 
draperies of purple velours or ribbon, 
or a background suggesting a stained 
glass window are dignified and suitable 
for both clothing and furnishings. 

Finally, the use of the price ticket is 
highly recommended in the average store 
for the Easter opening although for the 
formal Spring showing it may be omit- 
ted, an artistic show card sufficing. Let 
them be small, however, and incon- 



Dry Goods Review 


For all 

Canton Crepe 

Crepes Georgette 

Crepes de Chine 

Liberty Satins 


Printed Foulards 

Silk Shirtings 

Chiffons and 

Printed Novelties 

on Georgette and 


Cotton Novelties 

Silk Dress Nets 

On Yellow 
Boards only 

Visit us at Toronto or 
Write us your inquiries 

Lcs Successeurs de 






Telephone : Adelaide 3062 


E. Desnoux, Rep. 

Easlern Canada Agent: G. P. Wynness, 113 Metcalfe, 


Western Canada Agent: Edwin J. Kirkbright, 205 Bower 

Building, Vancouver, B.C. 

















See the New 
Wonder -Fabric 

r, Sd ]t 


b° a) 

meeting with phe- 
nomenal success in 
The States. 

Write for samples 
addressing Dept. R 



361-363 Broadway, cor. Franklin St. 


Established 1838 

Boston, 67 Chauncey St. Baltimore, Emerson Tower Bid; 

Philadelphia, Bourse Bldg. Cincinnati, Greenwood Bldg. 
Chicago, 223 West Jackson St. Louis, Columbia Bldg 


Established Since 1838 

Dm Goods Review 



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M I M 


In Old Times or Ne 


What fabric so delicate, yet so serviceable as cotton ? 

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The best cottons are PRUE COTTONS. 

Made by Canadians in Canada. 


" The ultimate choice of LIMITED 

the PRUdent housewife." 





Dry Goods Review 


Homespuns are Popular for Spring 

Montreal and Ottawa Houses Make Big Showings of Domestic 

and Imported Lines — Great Variety in Offerings of American 

Houses — Some Very Striking Scotch Woollens Are Shown — New 

French Fabric Called "Kasha" Being Asked For. 

i HE coming - season will witness 
a marked revival in demand for 
British woollens of all sorts," 
stated a prominent Montreal woollen im- 
porter to Dry Goods Review this month. 
"Prices are now upon a stable basis 
and the mills have begun once more to 
accept orders which are coming in 
quite freely and in much greater quan- 
tity than last year. All that is now re- 
quired is some sort of equality in ex- 
change rates between the different 
European countries to put matters upon 
the permanent up grade." 

Asked what he considered to be the 
popular fabrics for the Spring and Sum- 
mer season, this authority endorsed the 
vogue for homespuns with great em- 
phasis. "We have only begun to see 
the possibilities of these fabrics," he 
explained. "I believe that for wo- 
men's wear it will be pre-eminent before 
long for tailored garments, not only in 
our own domestic weaves but in those 
which are imported from Scotland and 
England. Bright colors are particular- 
ly strong at present." 

A homespun, oil proofed by a special 
process is being featured for coats, es- 
pecially for rainproof coats because a 
certain amount of the natural oil is thus 
restored to the wool fibre, making it 
more or less rainproof in character. 
Shown in blues and purple, it is very 
effective. Twilled effects are much 
wanted but the smartest of all are the 
hand-loom effects, reproducing the habi- 
tant weave. 

Tweeds of all sorts are in enormous 
demand, it was said, especially in Scotch 
mixtures of two colors or of a number 
of colors and la fleck of white. Blue 
and brown is perhaps the most popular 
color combination in demand just now. 

Blues are Varied 

After so long a season of black attire, 
women are demanding plenty of vivid 
colorings in their dress goods, it was 
said, and for this season the early show- 
ings of fabrics for next fall are featur- 
ing quite an unusual number of bright 
tones, particularly in blues, which have 
until now been confined to about three 
staple shades. In smooth finished goods 
especially is this trend noticeable. Tri- 
cotine continues in good demand for the 
making up trade in women's garments, 
but jersey is not so strong, most re- 
tailers seem to be making an effort to 
clear out this stock as far as yardage 
g*oods are concerned. 

Quite a novelty in sports skirtings 
was spoken of as a feature of the early 
spring business. This material was de- 
scribed as a white homespun fabric 
heavily striped in deep blue or vice ver- 
sa. The skirting is woven so that pleats 

Three of the new fine texture homes-puns! The one on the left is plain, the 
one in the centre is a brown and tan mixture and that on the right has 
a design. — Shown by Hawthorne Mills, Carleton Place, Cnt. 

of different sizes can be inliaid to create 
an entirely white effect or one of the 
blue as desired. Of the two effects — 
checks or stripes — the preponderance of 
favour goes to the latter entirely for 
skirts, although in silks and other light- 
weight fabrics, checks are spoken of as 
being sure of a wide vogue. 

American Ranges for Fall 

In the range of fine woollens for next 
Fall recently opened up by a well known 
American firm, great variety is offered 
in weights, colors and textures, the op- 
inion being given that never before 
have so many fine materials been fea- 
tured at a single opening. Among the 
different lines offered are the following: 
Normandy cloths, Tricotines and twill 
cords, velours, cheviots, broadcloths, 
serges and knitted fabrics. Among the 
napped coating fabrics there are many 
new names to be found which will be- 
come familiar next fall when the open- 
ings get under way. These include, 
Avalon, Rubadre, Lanclo, Rlattanna, 
Beverly. The famous Normandy cloth 
will be repeated again for this fall with 
a variation on the name — Normanglo. 
Then there will be similar fiabrics shown 
such as Touraine, Delysia, Shawsheen, 
Deloraine (which resembles Normandy 
but has a gold thread,) Monetta and 

Among the very high grade eiashmere 
cloths are included Ormadale, Veldecia, 
Duv-bloom, Velveretta and Velfina. 
Polaire cloths are shown in a line of 

pastel shades as well r.s reversible 
pollaires with plaid backs. Tweed fancy- 
backs and chinchilla cloths are other 
favorites which conclude the showing for 
fall and winter 1922. 

Scotch Woollens are Striking 

Among the interesting exhibit of 
Scotch woollens shown by the visiting 
delegation to Canada and the United 
States this month there were novelties 
to be found which were of interest to the 
Canadian trade. Of course, every pat- 
tern shown by these manufacturers is 
typically Scottish in character, whether 
of woollen or worsteds, such as Saxonies, 
herringbones, tweeds, stripes, Bannock-* 
burns and Glen checks, cheviots and 
mixtures. The color effects were espe- 
cially beautiful, some patterns having 
as many as ten or twelve or even six- 
teen blendings which tradition says were 
adopted to imitate the many colored 
gravel in the river beds of Scotland or 
the native heather colorings. The 
weights of these fabrics ranged from 
12 ounce for suitings up to 32 ounce 
for heavy overcoatings. According to 
Mr. Bisset, the Secretary of the Dele- 
gation, it has been found that little 
change in the colorings has been asked 
for by buyers although the question of 
weights has proved of considerable im- 
portance. British fabrics are wider than 
American made materials on the aver- 
age, it was found, and 16 ounces is 
about the equivalent of 14- Y2 ounces in 
(Continued on page 45) 

Dry Goods Review 



New Silks in Montreal Warehouses 

Many Colors But White Is A Favorite — Popularity of Crepe 
Weave — Some New Silk Skirtings And Some of The British Nov- 
elties — Georgette Under A New Name — Roshanara 


HAT IS THE leading color 
for spring and summer in 
silks?" was the query put by 
Dry Goods Review to a leading Montreal 
wholesaler this month. "Well, the Tex- 
tile Color Association decrees peri- 
winkle blue, rubellite, canna and apple 
green and everybody admires these col- 
ors sure enough, but when it comes to 
actual buying, everybody takes plain 
white," was the reply which was given 

Everywhere that Dry Goods Review 
put the same question, the same answer 
was received. The evidence is therefore 
in favor of an all-white season, as was 
predicted in Dry Goods Review some 
time back. Possibly the reason for this 
lies in the fact that never before have 
there been so many exquisite sports 
garments devised in knitted fabrics or 
other materials, these being in vivid 
colors for the most part, necessitating 
ths use of plain white skirtings to show 
up their appearance to the best effect. 
Undoubtedly, the white skirt or frock 
will be selected to accompany the sweat- 
er or pullover of "bonfire" red or peri- 
winkle blue. 

Crepes Prevail 

Crepe weaves carry the day entirely, 
it is said, for summer wear, the bright 
artificial silks or baronet satins not be- 
ing s"o good, although the new jacquard 
patterned baronets are good. Cantons 
of the very best qualities are still very 
strong, but owing to the fact that they 
are being imitated in lighter weights 
and in less beautiful finishes they are 
being watched closely as time passes, 
lest their popularity wane with sudden- 
ness. Great demand is felt for heavy 
weaves brocaded in a large allover de- 
sign in self color, especially in white, 
and in this connection "Silkway" a new 
American product is exceptionally pop- 

According to the Montreal silk buyer 
quoted before, good) quality crepe de 
chines are exceedingly scarce for rebuy- 
ing. Swiss goods have gone up and it is 
impossible to secure quick deliveries 
on these fabrics for several months. 

Krepe-Knit Advances 

The big seller as was predicted in Dry 
Goods Review last month has proved to 
be the different variations on Chinchilla 
cloth or Krepe-Knit. Although a very 
large stock of this knitted silk was re- 
ceived a month or so ago by this whole- 
saler only one piece now remains, prices 
from mills have advanced fifty cents per 
yard on repeat orders, and no deliveries 
can be made until next May. Navy 
blue and' black (are selling fast in this 
material which lends itself to the mak- 
ing of tailored garments even better 

than its predecessor tricolette, which 
had the fault of sagging. 

A novelty crinkle crepe especially wo- 
ven for the making of Jupon blouses 
was another effective novelty shown. 
This was mjade in navy blue with a very 
wide rose pattern border in natural 
pinks and foliage shades printed across 
the material from selvage to selvage at 
yard intervals This material is intend- 
ed to be cut into lengths suitable for 
making the new long overblouses lasi the 
rose border comes just at the correct 
depth to be used as a finish. The tex- 
ture of this crepe was like a real old 
Chinese Canton, exquisitely fine and 
rippled to the touch. 

New Silk Skirtings 

Still another striking novelty noticed 
was a sports skirting of a similar crepe 
weave, this time of ivory white striped 
boldly in navy blue, the stripes being 
fully three inches wide and set at equal 
distances one from the other. Upon this 
magpie effect was printed in even spac- 
ing, a serious of enormous floral motifs 
featuring roses in pinks and greens, the 
whole presenting the effect of a magni- 
ficent drapery fabric or a wall-paper. 
However, when the skirting was pleat- 
ed together, the roses magically disap- 
peared, leaving behind a sombre blue 
ground, relieved by the merest piping of 

Broken check pattern in white develop- 
ed in flocked design on black Normandy 
voile. — Imported by the John M. Gar- 
land Son & Co., Cttawa. 

white at the edges of the pleats. A 
great success is predicted for this silk. 
For summer evening frocks nothing 
can be imagined more lovely than the 
newest Swiss chiffon taffetas in that pe- 
culiar finish known as "taffetas change- 
ant." This consists of a silvery sheen 
that is indescribably lovely on the pastel 
shades such as palest green, blue and 

British Novelty Silks 
A prominent Montreal firm has been 
exceptionally fortunate in discovering a 
British manufacturer of crepe silks who 
is turning out designs in jacquard ef- 
fect fully as lovely as any to be found 
elsewhere. Having contracted for a large 
quantity of these silks this firm will 
shortly be in a position to offer the very 
latest sports silks, British made, at a 
fraction of the cost of those imported 
from other countries. Owing to the 
craze for plain checks which has swept 
the country in cotton goods, silk buyers 
are feeling out a new path with a line 
of chiffon taffetas, checked in black and 
white or in colors which are decidedly 
smart and unusual. In the range of 
black and white checks, there will be 
four different sizes offered, while iin 
blues, reds and browns, etc., there will 
be at least three selections to choose 
from. The favorite size is said to be 
the inch check. For skirts especially, 
these taffetas are promised a wide 

Pongees in Demand 
Pongees are both scarce and high and 
supplies .on hand in Montreal wholesale 
houses are not plentiful. There is still 
a small quantity available in the 33-in. 
width at 85 cents, but buyers are warn- 
ed not to delay placing orders much 
later. Qualities in pongees are improv- 
ing however, which a little offsets the 
matter of price increases, which are now 
fully 45 per cent, above six months ago. 
Buyers are waiting for the Japanese 
market to come down and are delaying 
orders to effect this. 

According to reliable authorities one 
of the reasons for the difficulty in de- 
liveries this season is due to the fact 
that so much millinery is being made of 
silk this season. Formerly much straw 
was employed in the manufacture of 
spring hats but now the contrary holds 
true. Miladi must have a hat of "Gros 
de Lbndres" or faille silk to be in the 
fashion and in the brighter shades there 
is not a yard to be had. Bluet or peri- 
winkle blue is simply sold out every- 
where, it is said. Spring millinery calls 
for "intense" shades and few are strong 
enough to measure up to the demand. 
The leading colors wanted are rubellite, 
flame and canna, pumpkin, Copenhagen 
blue and apple green. 

(Continued on page 45) 



Dry Goods Review 

Few Woollen Novelties in Paris 

Manufacturers Are Reducing Prices on Some of Last Year's Nov- 
elties — Customers Cannot Pay Above Certain Price — Serge to be 
Popular and Revival Talked Of in Broadcloths — Many Plain 
Silks Being Offered — Fabrics for The Seaside 

Written specially for Dry Goods Review by JEANNE GSELL, of Paris, France 

PARIS, January,1922 

THIS letter, announced in my prev- 
ious mail as relating- to Summer 
woollens, will not be such a long- 
one as I anticipated for the following 

On seeing- various collections and talk- 
ing with the salesmen of the leading cloth 
houses here, I came to the conclusion that 
there would not be many regular novel- 
ties in the woollen line this season. 

Last year was not a very profitable 
one for them, because the prices they 
were compelled to ask for novelties was 
too hig-h; here, the customers are willing 
to buy but they cannot and will not pay 
more than a certain price; they will rath- 
er do without the things, this from the 
wholesaler to the retailer, and to the 
latter's customer. 

Lowering Prices 

Under such circumstances, the whole- 
salers, rather than spend a lot of money 
to create new designs, which they were 
not sure to sell, thought it would be 
better to lower the price of last year's 
collections (which, by the way, will still 
be novelties, since they were not sold 
extensively,) and bear the loss. 

This does not mean that there will not 
be any variety in the stuffs ordered, for, 
you will remember by my letter of a 
year ago on the same subject, that any 
amount of striped, checked, fancy-woven 
materials wer e offered then. The lat- 
est style proposed was a "fil a fil," viz: 
a nice pure wool fabric woven in white 
and black, so as to give a grey effect, 
one white thread and one black both 
ways. Although it was extensively seen 
in the full Summer, it is likely to be 
still largely demanded for suits this 
Summer, as it was very stylish indeed. 

Serge Patterns 

Serge is sure to be asked for, as it 
makes delightful Spring dresses, either 
plain or trimmed with braiding, and 
even embroidered. Some houses have, 
now, ready-made, some embroidered 
serge, which may be papular, although 
it may become too common, at it gener- 
ally happens with machine embroidery. 
Still, in many cases, it may be found 
useful to make suits effective, and not 
too expensive. 

I have also seen a few different pat- 
terns of serge, navy or black, with silk or 
satin looking motifs woven in the stuff. 
This, too, was rather nice, and suitable 
either for whole garments or as trim- 

The revival of broadcloth, which start- 
ed last year, is sure to be continued 

Above — Gingham patterned dress cretonne which is much in demand for summer 
frocks, shown in a range of dainty color contrasts and designs. In this 
sample blue and yellow checks are combined with conventional roses and 
violets in the nosegay motif. 

Below — "Bouvelle Velours" — The newest drapery fabric is printed iti corduroy 
velvet, a 36 inch fabric shown in three different patterns and varied 
grounds. This is well spoken of for upholstery for wicker furniture. — 
Shown by W. R. Brock & Co., Ltd., Montreal. 

In that respect, it is most likely, the 
warm travelling and motoring coats will 

this season, especially with longer skirts, 
and more elaborate dresses. Broad- 
cloth, in black especially, is very becom- 
ing, and has a good many adepts in the 
middle-age class of ladies. It is not yet 
extensively seen in colors, although 
there are cases when it is striped or 
checked in the bright shades at present 
in favour, green, red, saxe, etc. 
Fancy Flannelettes 
Although it is rather late in the sea- 
son for such materials. I must point out 
some very pretty reversible flannelettes, 
suitable for saut de lits, peignoirs, which 
has just come out: it is generally in light 
shades with dots, plain or fancy, some 
checks, plaits, etc.: the shades mostly 
seen are white and light blue or pink, 
mauve of two shades, mole and blue, etc. 
Some more fanciful patterns are khaki 
with bright green patches, which, at a 
distance looks very much like the velours 
de laine we made our Winter coats of. 

not vary much, as far as the material 
is concerned, and I may say that we 
shall have to choose between the usual 
velours de laine, or ratine, or bure, that 
I have mentioned many times already. 

New Silks 

In the silk department, much is said 
about the plain silk fabrics known as 
"crepe morocain," a thick creipe de chine 
that was already seen last season, crepe 
georgette, crepe satin, a thick fabric 
still, and foulard. 

The latter, especially if the fashion 
for black and white still prevails, will be 
seen in a great many instances, with 
fancy printing-s of a most irregular 
shape, motifs in length being favoured 
by the manufacturers. 

As a rule, all kinds of stuffs will be 
(Continued on page 45) 

Dry (roods Review- 




(Continued from page 42) 
American materials. Comment was 
made also on the habit common on this 
side of the Atlantic of following styles 
closely and almost universally. In Bri- 
tain, it was said, that there are much 
greater divergences due to individual 
tastes than here, which accounts for the 
fact that Scottish manufacturers gen- 
erally make up a greater number of 
patterns' than is the case with American 
makers. The main point emphasized by 
the visiting members of this delegation 
was the fact that they are not trying to 
compete with Canadian trade but to in- 
troduce essentially individual fabrics to 
this country, which could not be produc- 
ed outside of Scotland on account of at- 
mospheric conditions. 

Although not shown among the collec- 
tion of samples, white fabrics lare expect- 
ed to be very much in demand next 
summer for skirts and costumes. 
Serges are being sold in large quantities 
as well as soft flannels of the better 
grades. The new French fabric called 
Kasha is already being called for by 
certain stores. 

French Broadcloth Arrives 

In conversation with a leading Ot- 
tawa wholesale firm this month, Dry 
Goods Review was informed that east- 
ern Ontario retailers are demanding 
large quantities of the new sport flan- 
nels in high colors in plain or fancy de- 
signs. Of all shades, American Beauty 
is proving most popular. White and 
cream serges are also exceedingly popu- 
lar with this Ottawa firm as are t 
better qualities of cream flannels. The 
Same house reports a recent shipment of 
fine French chiffon broadcloth, the first 
received since before the war, and 
states that in brown shades particularly 
this fabric is finding quick buyers. 

Cross bred serges in 40 inch widths 
for popular priced trade have long been 
scarce but large shipments are expected 
by the middle of February which will in 
some measure satisfy the great demand. 
Staple tricotines and Scotch tweeds are 
exceptionally good with Ottawa trade 
this month, heather mixtures selling 

Owing to the large purchases in Eu- 
ropean markets stocks in Ottawa ware- 
houses are now well assorted land moder- 
ate in price. No falling off in the de- 
mand for yardage goods is being felt 
but a remarkable increase in novelty 
fabrics is already noticeable. 


(Continued from page 43) 
There is not much demand for plain 
colored taffeta this spring, the reason 
being given that once the Easter dress 
trade is over, the consumer wants sports 
clothes and to feature these effectively 
only the rough textured fabrics are suc- 
cessful. This also hampers the vogue 
for silk to a greater degree. 

Speaking of georgette, a buyer stated 
that this is likely to be revived to a 
great extent this summer but under an- 
other name. Already a considerable 

quantity of what is called "triple crepe" 
is being called for to make dressy hats, 
and this fabric is really a heavy Geor- 
gette with a lit.le stiffening in it. 


Supplies of heavy Roshanara crepe in 
bordered effects suitable for forming a 
handsome trimming are now received at 
Montreal. This crepe is especially ef- 
fective in navy blue but is featured in 
all colors. Silk ratine in white or bright 
colors is likewise a big seller already, 
while honeycomb cloth, which is a mix- 
ture of wool and artificial silk with a 
crinkly or rippled surface, almost cired 
in effect and quite uncrushable, is an- 
other popular novelty. 

Jacquard designs on heavy baronet 
satins are coming in now daily, and 
many large and unusual patterns are in- 
cluded among the all-white range. 


(Continued from page 44) 
printed, even cotton crepe, some samples 
of which are most extraordinary: huge 

Japanese designs, mostly for kimonos, 

Taffeta is sure to be proposed many 
times, for, although it was favoured to 
a fairly large extent already, its vogue 
has not yet been complete, and it won't 
go out of fashion so soon. 

It seems that silk jersey, and all kinds 
of silk hosiery are still favoured, and 
yet it took them years to come out! 

For the Seaside 

Sponge cloth is also sure to be very 
much in favour for the seaside, and even, 
if the shades are pretty, in plain, and 
the stripes effective, some Summer 
dresses may be seen in various instances 
in town. In the country, this material, 
together with all light cotton fabrics, is 
sure to be very much in favour. 

Ail these hints are suggestions; next 
month, the first collections of the sea- 
son will be out, and I shall be able to 
tell you in a more precise way what will 
be favoured, and what will the new 
shapes and styles be. 

Yours very truly, 

Jeanne Gsell 

Upper Left — 

Chiffon taffetas in large block checks for pleated skirts are to be in 
demand for summer wear to accompany silk sweaters. Four sizes of 
checks are offered in black, scarlet or blue with white. 
Upper Right — 

Novelty oriental crepe de chine featuring the familiar Persian pattern 
on a blue around. For linings, scarves and dress trimmings. 
Lower — 

New honeycomb silk just arrived from England, which is guaranteed 
uncrushable. This silk is made of wool and silk fibre and comes in 
various plain shades with a high finish. The surface has the new blis- 
tered or rippled finish. 

All Fabrics Imported and Shown by Courtesy of Greenshields 

of Montreal. 


Dry Goods Review 



New Lines for the New Season 




Your mail orders given prompt attention. Salesmen are now on the road with our 
complete lines. Buyers while in the city are asked to call and see our splendid 

range of merchandise. 




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Fashion Sponsors 

Followers of Fashion demand 


Dynamo Maline never becomes sticky 
and is guaranteed rain-proof, moisture- 
proof, perspiration-proof, sun-proof, and 
will not fade. 

The "DYNAMO BRAND" stamp pro- 
tects you when you buy malines. 


{United Makers) 


Room 705 

Read Bldg. 

Tel. Main 6524 

80 Wellington 

St. West 
Tel. Adel. 4184 


Dry Goods Review DRESSFABRICS 47 



It is an established fact that Homespuns are the keynote for Spring 1922 
and repeat orders coming in from every Province confirms the fact that 
the women of Canada are calling for and buying Homespuns. 

Our range contains four outstanding numbers and Dressgoods Buyers 
should make a point of seeing each of the following qualities before 
making final purchases. 

The "PENTLAND" 56-inch wool dyed, shown in nine solid and seven 

two-tone effects, closely resembles the Hand-made 
Homespun. Shades, Nile, Rose, Fawn, Tan and Blue, 
and in combinations of these colors. 

The "WESTERDALE" 54-inch Homespun having a beautiful soft finish — 

the eighteen colorings include all of the Season's popu- 
lar mixtures. Unexcelled for Sport Suits. 

The "HARPSDALE" A cloth having a soft flannel touch, 54 inches wide, 

in nine different combinations from Light Grey to Olive 
and Brown tints. 

The "STROMA" A cloth specially adapted in weight and finish for 

the smart tailored suit in six mixture shades of darker 

Our Department of Novelty Skirtings has on display the latest productions in 
Striped and Checked Effects in Worsteds, Flannels, Tweeds and Homespuns. 

Buyers visiting the warehouse while in the City will find the call a profitable 
one and we shall appreciate the visit. 

Samples to the Trade on Request. 


Wholesale Textile Fabrics 




Dry Goods Be view 

Large Hats for Spring and Summer 

Buying From Maritime Provinces Has Been Up To Last Year — 
Trimmings Used in Paris This Season Will be Seen Here — Jute 
to Feature Strongly for Spring — Hats for Younger Girls — Some 

of the Models Described 

BUYERS from the Maritime pro- 
vinces and the west have almost 
completed their shopping in Tor- 
onto. The wholesale houses are more 
than pleased with the volume and kind 
of business done by these visitors. They 
say it compares favorably with that of 
this time last year. Quebec and Ontario 
have shown little interest as yet but 
there is every reason for faith in these 
provinces when business is good in the 
extremities. One millinery manufactur- 
er and importer says that he will have 
his eastern and western orders all out 
before February 25, in good time for 
late buyers. 

The early prophecy in regard to flow- 
ers and fruits can now be corroborated, 
designers declare. In fact all of the 
trimmings which Paris is using this sea- 
son will be seen here. It is a peculiar 
thing, that while shapes take one or two 
seasons to find their way here, trim- 

mings usually come over in their first 
season. Large hats which took Paris 
by storm last summer did not appear 
even in New York last Fall to any ex- 
tent. There is every reason to believe, 
however, that they will be strong in the 
late Spring and all Summer. 

Though early indications pointed to 
bright shades with black the last two 
weeks have found a good demand for the 
all-black ones. This may have followed 
in the wake of the sudden vogue for 
contrasting colors on the Spring frocks, 
which are shown so far. 

Jute the Newest Thing for Spring 

Jute is nothing but the old-fashioned 
hemp in various shades. This all-over 
material is especially favored because 
of its flexibility and it is not as expen- 
sive as the cellophane and other straws 
which are good this year. 

Angora braids are being talked of in 

millinery circles. They form the basis 
for splendid midseason chapeaux and in 
fact rival the haircloth in some houses. 
The latter will of course be very good 
for black hats while the braids will be 
seen in most of the pastel shades. 

One or two millinery firms are stress- 
ing hats which have tweed-like straw for 
wear with tweed suits. These are very 
chic and give a tailored effect ho neces- 
sary with the new suits. They fill, 
moreover, a real need. The ordinary 
bright colored dress hat has no place 
with the homespun and tweed costume, 
while the all-black is a trifle severe with 

Floppy Garden Hats Expected 

That the floppy shape so becoming to 
many women, will be worn, is almost 
certain, several designers who have just 
returned from New York, declare. They 
have been talking with Paris buyers on 
(Continued on page 62) 

Millinery trimmings this Spring have a decided oriental character. Most unusual are the shapes and colors em- 
ployed, especially in the devising of novelty effects. The accompanying sketch reproduces some of the best liked 
trims of the month, including the nuitchstick, which is he^e shown in a rosette effect, as well as used in flat 
embroidery. — Trimmings Shown by Courtesy of Debenhams (Canada) Ltd., Montreal. 

Dry Goods Review 



In Readiness for Millinery Openings 

Montreal Display to Open on February 27th — Handmade Hat of 
Novelty Allover of Braid Dominates — Parrots Among the Late 
Novelties — Fruits in Realistic Effects — Circular Veils of Sheer 


FEBRUARY finds the Montreal 
wholesale millinery houses in 
readiness for the openings which 
take place upon the 27th according to 
custom. Already buyers are coming in 
and many of the choicest models appear 
in the show rooms only to take wings, 
so to speak, and are quickly dispatched 
to eager purchasers throughout Canada. 
Business is opening up briskly and on 
all sides the comment is being made 
that models were never smarter nor 
more varied and individual in type than 
this spring's showing. 

There is of course a similarity in the 
general trend of style as observed dur- 
ing visits to the leading wholesalers 
this month. The handmade hat of nov- 
elty allover or braid dominates the 
scene in a bewildering variety of types. 
French models are now among those 
prerent also, and give distinction to all 
the showings by reason of their daring 
originality and superb workmanship. 
New York is also liberally represented, 
but it is whispered that insofar as style 
is concerned Canadian made models 
have nothing to fear by way of compar- 
ison with imported effects this Spring. 

A designer in a leading store stated 
to Dry Goods Review that part of the 
present rush for new millinery is at- 
tributable to the fact (hat Easter comes 
later than usual and women must have 
something now for immediate wear but 
they will require hats of more summery 
character for May. Provided the weath- 
er man sends a warm sunny month in 
April, there is no reason why Summer 
millinery should not be launched earlier 
than usual, with immense success. 

Unconventional Brims 
Hats for immediate wear therefore 
favor both small turbans and rather 
larger brimmed shapes, both of whi~h 
may be characterized as more youth 
ful and even dashing as has been the 
case with spring hats in several seasons 
past. Brims are anything but conven- 
tional and crowns are scarcely ever of 
the same material as their brims. Flow- 
ers appear everywhere in colorings that 
never were beheld in nature, yet which 
are charming withal. 

Mention was made in last month's is- 
sue of the vogue for the novel "match- 
stick trimming" upon hats. This Ir- 
is decidedly the smartest, apart from 
the floral type, of any shown and buyers 
can seldom resist these models which 
are trimmed with cabochons or a fence- 
like border of this realistic bead-work. 
As the trade is now familiar with this 
type of trimming, it is not necessary to 
dila'e upon "match sticks" other than 

to say that they can be utilized in a 
great variety of ways, including pom- 
pons, facings, edgings, etc. Mon.real 
milliners are using a large quantity of 
white sticks with a black bead tip, or 
else the high shades, such as emerald, 
sealing wax red or bright blue tipped 
by a bead of black or white. The mat-h 
sticks carry out the idea of shiny, stiff 
effects admirably and are closely allied 
to the theme of lacquered and cire novel- 
ties, which is tV dominent key note of 
the entire spring showing. 

"Birds of a Feather" 

Another amusing novelty is the vogue 
for parrots, either imitations, made of 
feathers lacquered, or merely etched up- 
on celluloid plaques. Other tiny bi c< 
which appear 10 be dipped in silver 
paint, or entirely made of beads and 
mother of pearl spangles with a topaz 
eye, or even cleverly devised of past 
feathers of various color contrasts. The 
bird idea is well brought out although 
its composition may be something en- 
tirely foreign to nature! 

Composition quills with painted sur- 
face, continue to be displayed, while 
plume-like effects cut out of galilith or 
celluloid are exceedingly smart in the 
brighter shades. So-called "lightning 
rods," studded with brilliants are very 
effectively used on the front of blac'- 
cloth turbans, adding distinction with 
their brilliancy. 

Berries and Fruit Clusters 

Fruits — such as would tempt the 
most case-hardened Adam — are offered 
in realistic effects, mostly all glazed 
and highly polished. Such are raspber- 
ries, cherries, grapes, currants and even 
blackberries. Leaves are not much us? 1 
except to surround soft cockades of 
flowers. Flowers form, an inexhaust- 
ible topic of interest to all millinery de- 
signers, who are enthusiastic over the 
new flat effects of taffeta and velvet 
wi.h pinked edges, usually centred by a 
speck of hand embroidery to complete 
the realism. A flower of any size is 
seldom made completely of one color 
but is often composed of several .shaded 
tones blending from deep to palest tints. 
Thus are made many charming flower 
turbans which are colorful near the face 
but shade off to a pastel tone towards 
the crown. Flowers are usually adapt- 
able to all sorts of crushed effects and 
are frequently caught into odd corners 
betwixt brim and crown to fill out an 
awkward hiatus. 

Great enthusiasm is shown for bioux 
or duck feathers, whether they are em- 
ployed as a fringe, pompon or imitation 

bird effect. Ribbons also, particularly 
trie lacquered varieties of a supple 
drapy quality, are favored to form smart 
outstanding wing effects at either side 
around the crown of small milan tur- 
bans. Ribbons are much used also as 
bindings. Padded effects, which are 
composed of massed appliques of tubu- 
lar crepe are a very smart brim finish 
on small hats. 

Small Round Veils 

Small circular veils of the sheerest 
quality are lavishly used on ce 
shapes merely as a softening effect. 
Veils in general do not descend over the 
eyes at all, but are arranged to hang 
to the back or to frame the hair softly 
all round. 

A prominent milliner informed Dry 
Goods Review that there would not be 
as much of the fuchsia or periwinkle 
colorings shown in Canada as in New 
York for the reason tha„ they are rather 
trying to any one without much color. 
New York women, she pointed out, are 
careful to seleci millinery colorings to 
bring out their individual type of com- 
plexion and they do not hesitate to im- 
prove on nature if they are deficient in 
natural coloring. Canadian women, as 
a rule, are not blessed with pronounced 
complexions and should select the new 
spring shades with extreme care. Even 
bright blue is trying to anyone but the 

The same authority spoke enthusias- 
tically of the extensive variety of sports 
hats which she has originated for 
spring. Wool braid mixtures are used 
for the most part, blended in such a way 
that the hats are practically umcrush- 
able and can be turned inside out if so 
wanted, either to show another color 
contrast or to give an added lease of 
life to the hat. The new spring costume 
of homespun or tweed calls for a hat 
of this type with soft roll brim and 
plenty of dash and character. But wool 
braids are by no means all. There are 
also chenille, hemp, timbo, etc., which 
are all appropriate to wear with severe- 
ly plain clo hes on the links or for boat- 
ing, etc. 

W. C. Bland, president of the Bland 
Manufac uring Co., representing the 
Merchants Bank of Canada and Aaron 
Rabinovich, head of the firm of A. Rab- 
inovich & Co., Winnipeg, have closed 
a deal involving over $300000. The 
transaction concerns the Standard Fac- 
tory and the Exchjsive Ladies' Wear 
Company, both of Montreal, which have 
been taken over by Mr. Rabinovich. 
John Harwitz is associa f ed with Mr. 
Rabinovich in the deal. 



Dry Goods Review 

New York is Showing the Bell Crown 

Fully Fifty Per Cent, of The New Shapes Are Blocked — In Spite 
of Bright Colors Belief Is That Canadian Trade Will Stick To 
Black and White or Grey — Some of The Montreal Models Are 


MILLINERS returning from New 
York speak enthusiastically of 
the new bell crowns which char- 
acterize the latest shapes. Shapes vary 
in size but the crown is the sign which 
indicates that the hat dates from this 
Spring. According to one buyer, the 
lines of the new hats require much more 
study than has been necessary for many 
seasons. "Lines do not suit everyone," 
she remarked, "and it must be remem- 
bered this season that we no longer have 
to deal with the soft crushable effects 
which can be given a touch here and a 
pat there to make them becoming to any 
profile. Another thing which is mcst im- 
portant to remember is that trimming has 
become a very significant factor in mil- 
linery nowadays, and where a milliner 
used to be able to get away with any 
sort of trimming, she must now give the 
matter her closest attention, otherwise 
Spring hats will be utterly spoiled. The 
new trimmings are unusual this season, 
and are well worth devoting time to 
study. There are many novelties which 
are somewhat stiff and difficult to 
handle in order to achieve a smart re- 
sult. In my opinion, the trimming of the 
new hats is going to be the most im- 
portant phase of millinery this season, 
and I should recommend that every mil- 
liner give careful attention to manipulat- 
ing all the varied forms of beadwork, 
feathers, flowers and ribbon so as to 
make millinery more distinctive and less 
imitative in general." 

50 Per Cent. Blocked 

Fully 50 per cent, of the new shapes 
shown in New York this month we>e 
blocked, it was said by this authority, 
who also predicts that in spite of the 
much talked of vogue for bright colors, 
the most exclusive trade will still con- 
tinue to wear black and white or grey. 
It has often happened that when vivid 
shades were most widely spoken of for 
millinery, black and white effects were 
demanded by the highest class of trade. 
Grey is likewise to be very popular 
with smart women this Spring, 
especially when made of black and white 
closely intermingled. Practically every 
shape is fashionable this Spring but 
the sides must have width whether the 
hat be small or large. The bandeau is 
reappearing and is used to elaborate 
some charmingly quaint models on which 
flowers are lavishly used. 

The wanted materials for dress and 
general purpose millinery as indicated 
this month comprise real French horse- 
hair braid in combination with taffeta; 
flower appliques in shaded tones; 
French timbo handmade of finely woven 

straw closely resembling the Bankok of 
last year; fine Swiss mthair in combin- 
ation with cire Chantilly lace and beads; 
Yaak lace; hand sewn Milan straws; 
Kandy cloths, all kinds of *visca, both 
plain and iridescent; lisere braids. Soft 
woolen fabric braids and Yedda straws 
are much used for sports models, which 
this season are being developed in 
shapes which approximate the dress 
types of last year. Triple crepe softly 
arranged over a French willow shape 
makes dress hats of very effective 

The trimmings on better hats include 
hackle breasts, long ostrich flues, Bioux 
feathers, wide moire ribbons, huge fab- 
ric roses, ospreys, lace veils over 
flowers and bead outlines, cut jet cab- 
ochons, wing effects in all colors, glazed 
and transparent fruits, swathed os- 
trich, and a multitude of celluloid pins, 
mounts and fancies. 

Montreal Models 

The show rooms of the leading Mcnt- 
real houses are now filled with late 
Spring models, mention of which indi- 
cate the trend of style. 

The new "shredded wheat" straw in a 
pale onion color was effectively illus- 
trated in a smart turban in draped ef- 
fect. Glazed leaves of the same shade 
were caught oetween the folds. 

A small hat of shiny haircloth in 
black was brightened by the use of a 
bird developed in black and pearl 

spangles placed on the side brim. 

A dashing model of black haircloth 
with sharply upturned brim off the face, 
was faced with an upstanding edge of 
match-sticks in white and black. A very 
narrow back was a feature of this shape. 

A snug little visor front model was de- 
veloped in glazed braid in black with a 
white beaded motif as the sole trim- 
ming placed on the top of the crown. 

A black tricorne in the new small 
shape had its back section faced with a 
handmade applique of taffeta flowers, 
the edges of which were pinked out ir- 
regularly. The tones of the flowers were 
in the new periwinkle shades, varying 
from a deep fuchsia to a pastel pink. A 
small circular veil fell softly over this 
shape extending about an inch below 
the hat all round. 

A Vasselin-Villetard model seen re- 
cently was of fine hand sewn milan com- 
bined with a brim of soft satin, broader 
at the sides. The entire brim was veil- 
ed in Yaak lace which extended over 
the edge and lace wings were wired to 
stand out at either side. Two cut jet 
cabochons finished the trimming. 

A superb model matron's hat from 
Hyland was developed in soft white 
hackle breasts which formed the high 
crown and a narrow rolled side-brim 
slightly shaded the face. Long black 
ostrich flues gave the necessary sweep 
to this toque which was admirably suit- 
ed to a woman of mature years. 

Colored facings upon leghorn hats 
are spoken of already for summer wear, 
and it is expected that English sports 
hats will be in large demand for the 
entire season. 

Draped sash-end turban made of fancy 
navy straw allover, fringed off into ends 
over each ear. A novelty ornament of 
white celluloid is upstanding in front. — 
Imported by Debenhams Limited, of 

A Chicago retail firm, the Fair, 
has adopted an interesting new 
method of merchandising its base- 
ment goods. The entire basement 
is now given the status of a sep- 
arate store, with its own selling 
and buying forces, which are ab- 
solutely independent of any up- 
stairs department. Instead of hav- 
ing one buyer for an upstairs de- 
partment who can dispose of odds 
and ends as well as goods below 
the standard, in the basement, 
there is now one buyer for each 
upstairs department and one for 
each basement department. Each 
basement man is absolutely in- 
dependent and is not required to 
buy any stock from the upstairs 
buyers unless he sees fit to do so. 
This, it is claimed, will soon lead 
to better merchandising methods 
and mtore cereful buying in the 
various upstairs departments. 

Dry Goods Review 



Millinery Department can Cater Successfully 

To Exclusive and Medium Priced Trade 

Well Known Expert in Promoting Sales in Millinery Depart- 
ment Explains How This Can be Done — Requires Skill and Ex- 
perience — Price Not The Most Important Consideration — Things 
to Avoid in Selling Hats — Service of Specialized Nature Really 


THE retailing of millinery has un- 
dergone many subtle changes of 
late seasons, according to those 
who have studied the subject closely for 
many years. Where once a store consid- 
ered it necessary to boast of its large 
workroom with a staff of employees num- 
bering above a score, its heavy stocks of 
trimmings and materials, and its well 
assorted range of shapes becoming to 
all faces, the contrary now rules. 
Whereas it was once considered more 
correct to purchase an untrimmed hat 
for economy's sake, selecting the trim- 
ming according to the heaviness of 
Miladi's purse, nowadays, it is the most 
exclusive trade which desires its hats 
made to order and the rank and file are 
more than content with the enormous 
selection of trimmed models which are 
continually on display in all the millin- 
ery salons. 

Passing of Workroom 

According to the merchandise mana- 
ger of a large store in Ottawa the work- 
room today is passing from our midst, 
and is no longer essential. It is practic- 
ally impossible for the average store to 
make profit on a workroom since the 
loss on materials which are not used 
is greatly increased since the old days 
when workrooms were the rule rather 
than the exception. To keep an aver- 
age workroom supplied with even a 
moderate quantity of the usual wanted 
materials including satins, silks, nets, 
ribbons, wire, buckram, velvet, etc., not 
to speak of the no less considerable 
range of expensive trimmings, would re- 
quire an investment of far more money 
than the actual return would warrant. 
Whether the woman of today has learned 
to prefer the ready trimmed hat because 
she must take it, 'faut de mieux,' or 
whether because hat manufacturers have 
succeeded in turning cut millinery which 
is smarter and more individual than the 
average modiste's product, who can 
say? The fact remains, — the store 
workroom is passing. 

Pursuing data upon the subject, a 
staff member of Dry Goods Review re- 
cently interviewed the manager of the 
millinery department in the A. J. Frie- 
man store of Ottawa, Mr. Kirtley, who 
is well known throughout Canada as an 
expert in promoting sales in this de- 
partment. Mr. Kirtley has had wide ex- 
perience in all the leading cities of Can- 
ada, and speaks of conditions generally, 
not as they appear locally in Ottawa. 

'"Can a millinery department cater 
successfully to both the medium priced 

trade and to the exclusive customer?" 
was the question asked. 

"It can," was Mr. Kirtley's reply, "but 
it requires considerable skill and experi- 
ence. It must never be forgotten that 
it is the label on the hat that enhances 
its real worth in the eyes of its possess- 
or. If a woman is wearing a French 
model which is signed across the inside of 
the crown by a world famous name, she 
feels such a sense of pride that she can 
scarcely resist the temptation of show- 
ing it to her friends. If alongside of 
Maria Guy or Reboux there is also 
attached a little tag bearing the name 
of the local store, the glamour of the 
imported model and its reputation for 
style is cast over the department which 
sold the hat. French hats are commonly 
supposed to be expensive luxuries but 
they undoubtedly give distinction to the 
department which features them even if 
they have to be sacrificed later on in the 
season. At the same time they help to 
build up a reputation for style and ex- 
clusiveness which can do no harm to the 
regular trade. 

"We are finding out," continued Mr. 
Kirtley, "that price is not so tremen- 
dously important after all as we used 
to think it was. I believe that price is 
of secondary importance to the vast ma- 
jority of women, notwithstanding their 
own declarations to the contrary. Style 
and becomingness are far more import- 
ant factors in encouraging women to 
buy, and granted that the department 
can offer a good variety to select from, 
it should never be necessary to base its 
reputation upon prices alone. After all, 
a hat makes or mars a woman's appear- 
ance more quickly than any other item 
of apparel, and the wrong type of hat 
can actually change and alter a person- 
ality to an extraordinary degree. I 
should insist that hats be shown to a 
customer entirely with regard to their 
suitability to her type rather than be- 
cause she does not care to pay more 
than $4.98. 

Service Really Counts 

"When it comes down to a fine point," 
explained Mr. Kirtley, "it is really the 
kind of service which the department 
renders to the customer which deter- 
mines the sort of clientele it will attract. 
Cheap service brings only cheap trade. 
Specialized service attracts particular 
customers who appreciate extra effort 
made on their behalf. They are willing to 
pay for this additional courtesy and su- 
perior knowledge on the part of the 
staff, who in many cases are specialists 

in the subject. To my own staff I usual- 
ly recommend the following rules with 
regard to selling. First, never ask the 
customer how much she wants to pay 
She would invariably tell the saleslady 
less than the actual amount she had in 
mind, yet she would feel uncomfortable 
at having to disclose the fact that she 
is unprepared to purchase an expensive 
model. Rather show a good style first 
and judge from the customer's remarks 
whether to show her more expensive or 
less costly millinery. Second, do not 
show too many models at once If th" 
saleslady i s at all expert she will know 
instinctively the type of hat the custom- 
er requires, whether lines or soft ef- 
fects, and by dint of tactful questioning- 
she can elicit information regarding the 
suitable colors to accompany costumes 
A mistake commonly made by customers 
is to try on a dress hat when wearing 
an old blouse or frock which is totally 
different in style to the gown which will 
be worn with the hat in question. It is 
in most cases well nigh impossible to 
achieve the right effect with a hat when 
it is tried on with the wrong sort of 
dress. Few hats are suitable to wear 
with several costumes. Third, be pleas- 
ant to the customer and secure her con- 
fidence and good-will at all costs, but do 
not determine to sell her a hat if you die 
in the attempt. She may take a hat but 
it will probably be the last one she will 
ever select in the store." 

Early Spring Season 

Mr. Kirtley inclines to the belief that 
the Spring millinery season should be 
started as early as possible. As early as 
the last of January this year his own 
department blossomed forth with vividly 
colored spring models, due to the far 
that winter stocks were disposed of 
earlier than usual. It should not be 
necessary to wait for the calendar to 
show new millinery, far better to keep 
an eye on the weather and begin to at- 
tract customers by interesting advertis- 
ing and pretty window displays. 

The millinery department in the Frie- 
man store is located upon the first floor 
up and occupies more than 5,000 square 
feet or practically half the entire floor 
space. It is placed well to the front 
where the lighting is excellent, while 
overhead quantities of incandescent 
lights swing from chains, shaded in in- 
direct globes. Small compartments are 
railed off here and there to display the 
more exclusive models which are shown 
upon gilded strands in a French pattern, 
(Continued on page 63) 



Dry Goods Review 

The Fisk Spring showings 

of millinery are now in progress 

If you cannot visit 


you will find a Complete . Display at 

NEW YORK— 411 Fifth Avenue 

SAINT PAUL— Saint Paul Hotel 

The Fiskhat reputation for "Style and 
Quality Assured" — Fiskhat national ad- 
vertising — and prompt deliveries, com- 
bine to make a wonderful proposition 
for the dealer. 

D. B. FISK & CO., Creators of Correct SMiMnery 

225 N. Wabash Avenue, Chicago : : 411 Fifth Avenue, New York 

"Fiskhat" national advertising for 19Z2 starts in March issues of leading women's publications 

Spring Styles are Ready 

Millinery Frames 

Always the Newest in Stock 

From Best Makers at Best Prices 

Milliners everywhere are 
making up Spring stock. 
We have an assortment of 
hat frames that will permit 
milliners to make the most 
stunning of hats. 
Also the newest in trim- 
mings and materials in stock. 
Letter orders promptly filled 
and poods sent on approval. 


Wholesale Millinery 

Adelaide 3439 

We're Ready 

with the best and most complete showing 
of millinery merchandise we have ever had 
in our showrooms. 


of Cellophane 

Baronet Satin 

Iridescent effects in combination with 

Lacquered Flowers 

Smart designs in new calcamined 


Glycerined Ostrich 

Select Range of Pattern Hats 

Bright Colors Attractive Prices 

'gffif* 1 Order Early 



78 Wellington St. West - Toronto 

Representatives : 

H. B. Taylor, Mappin Bldg., Montreal. 

J. G. Martin, Hammond Bldg-., Winnipeg. 

Geo. Strachan, Welton Block. Vancouver. 

Dry Goods Review 





feg lCa ^ i, ^^faa 0JS2A 





continuing throughout Feb- 
ruary, features a line of Model 
Hats that are the crowning ef- 
fort of our designers. 

There is just that note of indi- 
viduality and finish to these 
creations that attracts you and 
satisfies your customer. 

We invite your inspection 


55 Wellington St. West, Toronto 

66 King Street 

236-237 Jackson BlJg. 

2Sy 2 Jokn St. N. 







More Circulation 

■No Increase in Rates! 

BY UNDERTAKING to fill, for their unexpired terms, all paid-up subscrip- 
tions to FARMERS' MAGAZINE— which ceased publication with its issue 
of February 2nd— MACLEAN'S MAGAZINE has thus added to its list at one 
stroke approximately 20,000 paid-in-advance subscribers. 

Through the general use of the automobile, the 
farmer has become to-day practically a sub- 
urbanite. Canadian farmers of the class who 
have been subscribing to FARMERS' MAGA- 
ZINE are in a position to buy automobiles, 
pianos, phonographs, and all other articles or 
conveniences that make for comfort and a higher 
standard of living. 

Besides being consumers of the best grades of 
merchandise, they are to-day taking the keenest 
interest in politics and all public and economic 

MAGAZINE have been the outstanding mediums 
in Canada, serving separately the rural and urban 
fields. The decision to discontinue FARMERS' 
MAGAZINE and to fill the subscriptions with 
MACLEAN'S, is the result of the maturity of 
a conviction that the subscribers to our farm 
magazine are ready now to demand and appre- 
ciate a general national magazine like MAC- 
LEAN'S in order to have the information and 
entertainment which they desire — a magazine 
that will furnish them with good fiction, political 
articles and Canadian national news of a char- 
acter not found in the farm papers or news- 
papers. No change is being made in the physical 
make-up of MACLEAN'S MAGAZINE, or in the 
character of its editorial contents. 

95,000 Gross Circulation 

Rate Based on 70,000 A.B.C. 

The addition of FARMERS' MAGAZINE subscription list to MACLEAN'S circulation, after all 
arrears and duplications are eliminated, commencing with February 15th issue, gives MACLEAN'S 
MAGAZINE at once a total circulation of more than Ninety-Five Thousand copies each issue. 

This gives a big general covering of town and city circulation, plus a highly selected farm circulation. 
It provides the tremendous influence of the "leadership" families in every city, town and village right 
across the Dominion, together with the most prosperous and progressive farmers in each trading 
territory; and constitutes a service which is not equalled or even approximated by any other general 
publication in Canada. 

95,000 National magazine circulation in Canada, on a per capita basis, is equal to at least 1,500,000 
in the United States. 

MACLEAN'S is the outstanding, 
big, covering medium in Canada. 

The line rate, for the present, remains at 70 cents 

First and 
Fifteenth of 
Entry Month 


Most Talked of 
In Canada 

'CANADAS national magazine 

The MacLean Publishing Company, Limited, 143 University Avenue, Toronto, Ont. 

Dry Goods Review 



% _yor Style, Quality and Value 



MONARCH-KNIT products have attained a reputation for quality which 
we take great care to preserve. 

It is a point of settled policy with us to use only the best quality of mater- 
ial, and to maintain a system of rigid inspection throughout each process of 

Watch for the new 

Monarch Style Book 

We are now completing Book No. 8 of "Art in Knitting Monarch Yarns." 
Monarch style books have always been in great demand and No. 8 will be 
no exception. It is full of the very newest styles, attractively illustrated, 
and with full and clear instructions for knitting with our new yarns, as 
well as with Floss, Dove, Down and Butterfly. Send us your reservation 
order now. 

The Monarch Knitting Co., Limited 

Head Office: Dunnville, Ont. 

Factories: Dunnville, St. Catharines and St. Thomas, Ontario 



Dnj Goods Review 

Refinement of Style and Finish Feature 

Models of Montreal Knit Goods Manufacturers 

Do Not Believe That Canadian Trade Wants the Embellishments 
Shown by American Houses in Bathing Suits — The New Square 
Neck Line a Good Feature — The Roll Top Hosiery — Some of The 

Children's Models 

MONTREAL manufacturers are 
not in favour of embroidering 
women's bathing suits of knit- 
ted fabrics, which is now being talked 
of in the United States. On the con- 
trary, although one of the biggest sea- 
sons in the history of the knit goods 
trade is anticipated, little effort will be 
directed towards such embellishment, 
the reason given being that embroidery 
is unsuitable upon knitted cotton or 
woolen materials unless the bathing suit 
is destined merely for beach wear, in 
which case, it will be made in all prob- 
ability of satin or crepe fabrics. As 
there are no ultra-fashionable beach 
resorts in Canada similar to Palm 
Beach or the California resorts in the 
States, Canadian makers will continue 
to confine their efforts to staple lines. 

Many refinements of style and finish 
are, however, to be found in the differ- 
ent ranges of bathing suits for women 
and children as typified by the showing 
of Spring models in Montreal show 
rooms. For example, the one-piece 
model suit is now featured exclusively, 
in colors which will not attract attention 
to the fair bather but that will be serv- 
iceable and becoming. There is extra 
roominess in the legs of the new suits, 
reinforcements at the crotch give great- 
er strength for swimming and armholes 
are finished with a new "crescent" sleeve 
or shield which stretches in any direc- 
tion by reason of being cut upon a bias 
strip and set on in a curve left open at 
the upper end. 

New Neck Fastening 

Another good feature is the new 
square neck-line, the lower front corners 
of which are slashed and fastened 
down with snap fasteners. The slash- 
es give plenty of extra room in slipping 
the suit over the head and prevent the 
stretching or tearing of the opening as 
is the case with ordinary suits. Besides 
the square or Dutch neck is a be- 
coming outline and is rather unusual in 
bathing suits. A scarlet knitted isuit 
was piped in black braid, little V-shap- 
ed insets of the black being introduced 
at the sides of the short skirt. Navy 
blue was effectively used in the same 
way with the red, while black and 
white formed still another smart con- 
trast. With these suits should be 
featured the new roll-top hose, which, 
while primarily intended for wear by 
youngsters up to 14 years of age, are 
made up to size 9*£ and are thus ex- 
tremely smart as a bathing accessory 
for grown-ups. 

Faahion'a latest demand is for fringe on sweaters. This one is adapted for 
sports wear as it is light in weight and comes just to the hips. The hose in 
this illustration should be very much appreciated by women who like to wear 
golf stockings and to have their knees covered at the same time. These fold 
back showing the stripe in the regular way and come several inches above 
the knee. Sweater and hose are in olive green and white. — Shown by Lavoib 
Knitters. Peterboro, Ontario. 

Dry Goods Review 



The "Rollette" is the latest thing in 
rolled top hosiery, this being merely a 
three quarter length hose with a cuffed 
top, permanently turned down. These 
are shown in all the leading staple col- 
ors and bright shades. In wool hose 
they are particularly good for early 
spring wear. 

Juvenile Styles Plentiful 

Knitted goods for children are quite 
plentiful this season insofar as novel- 
ties are concerned. One of the most 
charming novelties noticed for some 
time was a new style of knitted jumper 
dress for kiddies of three upwards. For 
either boys or girls there is shown the 
Oliver Twist or regulation overall effect 
in either bloomers or straight skirts to 
be worn with a little white sweater 
shirt finished with pearl buttons. The 
jumper effect is cleverly copied from the 
garments of older people and is both 
smart and effective for little boys and 
girls. Bright blues and browns, etc., 
are the colors favoured in conjunction 
with white for the upper part. 

In children's lines one notices that the 
apparel of grown-ups is reproduced in 
miniature for the younger generation, 
and the same attention to details in 
making fabric, design and trimming is 
given to these little garmants as to 
those of their elders. Dear little slip- 
over frocks of sensible coloring, just 
right for playtime or school days are 
shown by one Montreal firm, the trim- 
ming of which consists of delicate pin- 
stripes of contrasting wool. A cord 
girdle generally finishes the waist and 
the neck is round, but not too low, 
while the sleeves may be either long or 
short as desired. 

A middy dress for a little girl of 
four was developed in jade green wool 
finished with a sailor collar and laced 
up at the front. Shell pink was also 
a favoured style designed after the 
middy pattern. Older children can wear 
tarns to match their frocks and later it 
is expected that capes will be offered as 
is the case with the grown ups. 
Children's Suits 

Bathing suits for children mow more 
diversity of treatment than lmial, this 
spring. It is now recognized that the 
knitted suit is better for them than is 
the fancy affair made of silk or mohair, 
and to this end the Montreal makers 
are showing a pretty style for young 
girls of ten or so, made of tangerine 
knitted fabric or sky blue, trimmed with 
bands around the neck, sleeves and 
knees of black, while a braided wool 
girdle encircles the waist. 

For the larger children the bright 
colors are used more for trimmings, the 
body of the suits being of navy blue or 
black. A smart leaf-green suit of 
knitted cotton showed white inserts of 
the same fabric on the skirt and round 
the sleeve caps. This combination is 
said to be very strong for next summer. 

In men's styles the all wool suit in 
black trimmed with a very narrow 
banding of purple and gold is consider- 
ed good. 

As regards the possible vogue for 

artificial silk sweaters or other gar- 
ments next summer, opinions are vari- 
ed. One firm stated to Dry Goods Re- 
view that they were now working on 
orders for these silk sweators similar to 
those worn last season but which can be 

retailed at less than $15. which it is 
thought will appeal to the popular pric- 
ed trade. These will show a pretty open- 
work pattern and a fringe edge, though 
not as extreme as was .leatured last 


Novelty homespun is one of the most popular fabrics for skirtings. Th<>, 

skirt shown here is checked in black and white. The fringe is also a big 

feature for sports wear. — Shown by Hawthorne Mills, Limttko, 

Carleton Place, Ontario. 



Dry Goods Review 

A Year of Knit Goods Novelties? 

Manufacturer States That Former Policy of Showing Samples 
Twice a Year Will be Discontinued and he Will Show Every 
Month — Knitted Dress in Feather Weight Mohair Yarn to be 
Leader — Prices Will Compete With Ready-to-Wear — Some of 

The Novelties Described 


E ARE THROUGH with staple 
knit goods," remarked a 
prominent knit goods man to 
Dry Goods Review this mjonth. "Wie 
believe the coming season is going to be 
the biggest sports summer yet, and the 
public will want novelties of every kind 
in order to be correct. Where the 
greater part of our output used to be on 
sweaters and plain staple lines of bath- 
ing suits, etc, now we feature nothing 
but new ideas every month. We have 
discontinued our past policy of showing 
samples twice a year, and we shall now 
bring out something new each month, 
working ahead of time and only showing 
samples when the entire output is prac- 
tically ready. Then we can be in a posi- 
tion to ship goods at a minute's notice 
in larger quantities than would be poss- 
ible under the former method." 

This man emphasized the fact that 
the retail trade, especially the larger 
stores in the more important Canadian 
cities, are anticipating a big season in 
fancy knit outerwear, and are bending 
every nerve to clearing out present 
stocks of staples and last season's goods 
in order to be in a position to feature 
a good assortment of novelties as the 
Spring season opens. It should not be 
assumed, however, that the Canadian 
trade will accept the more bizarre nov- 
elties and designs which are now being 
offered in New York. Far from it. On 
the contrary, the smart Canadian wom- 
an will continue to demand quieter ef- 
fects always in good taste, both in color 
combinations, designs and style. 

Then again, another remarkable change 
is recorded in the matter of price, both 
retail and wholesale. The makers of 
smart knitted' outerwear recognize the 
fact that the knitted dress, costume, or 
coat has to compete to a certain extent 
with the ready-to-wear garment put 
forth by the cloak and suit and the dress 
trades. Therefore it has been their aim 
to perfect their knitted wear in such a 
manner as to make it more attractive in 
appearance and less expensive than the 
ordinary garment, and this ambition has 
been fully realized at the present time. 
When it is remembered that a smart 
knitted outfit including frock, cape or 
scarf and hat can be purchased by the 
consumer for less than $35 it can readi- 
ly be understood that the ready-to-wear 
department stands in keen competition 
with the knit goods section as has really 
never been the case previously. 

Knitted Frocks 

In discussing new goods with various 
leading Quebec manufacturers, Dry 
Goods Review is informed that the knit- 

ted dress in feather weight mohair 
yarns is to be a leader. This type of 
frock is offered in a wide diversity of 
charming effects and colors, including 
all white, all black, navy blue, fawn, 
brown, etc., in nearly every case, the el- 
aboration being an overcheck in one or 
more color contrasts. An all-white 
frock of chiffon-weight mohair was 
shown developed in a plain ribbed finish 
with pin stripes of black wool set on 
about four inches apart vertically, while 
contrasting cross stripes were applied in 
three rows from the knee downwards. 
The neckline is cut on the bateau or 
Jenny effect with a hign standing ex- 
tension in contrast. Occasionally the 
neckline is cut in deep V shape, which 
undoubtedly is more becoming to wear, 
if not as new. The waist line is not 
fitted to any extent but is retained by a 
loose string girdle of knitted mohair, 
fastened in front with a pearl slide. The 
sleeves are elbow length in general, an 
occasional long sleeve being found. 

The frocks of heavier yarn are also 
exceedingly attractive in navy blue with 
the same over-check stripings of pillar 
box red and fawn superimposed. The 
same effect is carried out in separate 
skirts with short box coats exactly like 
the prevailing style in "chicken's" gar- 
ments for spring. The necks are fin- 
ished with the small turn-down collar 
and a jaunty little bow of scarlet wool. 

An all-black frock of medium weight 
yarn was relieved by deep inset portions 
upon sleeves of white mohair, while the 
bateau collar was also of the same. 
This chiffon weight mohair is success- 
fully used to develop dainty little pull- 
over blouses with all kinds of novel col- 
lar effects, ranging from a simple little 
scarf, knotted carefully about the V 
shaped outline, and finished with a pearl 
slide, to the smart Peter Pan or Puritan 
collar, which together with the turn-up 
cuffs, is piped with black braid or edged 
with black wool. These blouses are 
finished either as plain pullovers, fitting 
the figure somewhat, or as Balkan 
middies, the lower edge being finished by 
a broad band or turned up after the 
same effect. Such a blouse as this is 
delightfully appropriate for wear with 
the sleeveless type of jumper dress 
which is predicted a successful Spring 
season. A scarlet jumper design of 
knitted jersey was designed with an ob- 
long front opening and deeply cut arm- 
holes through which the white wool 
blouse showed to the best effect. These 
jumpers will continue to be worn with 
capes and tarn o'shanters to match, or 
else with a wide scarf when the snow 
goes and Spring is really here. 

Far from being defunct from a style 
standpoint, the cape is to be revived in 
all sorts of novel ways for next summer, 
although no samples are ready as yet. 
By March it is expected that the cape 
will be shown to the trade in its smart- 
est forms and no knitted dress will be 
really complete without its accompany- 
ing cape wrap. These capes will be en- 

A clever bathing suit sititable for both 
the beach-comber and the genuine swim- 
mer. The trunks and upper part are in 
one piece and the skirt fastens on the 
three buttons shown in the illustration, 
giving a neat short-waisted appearance. 
The skirt is black and the rest, rose em- 
broidered in black. The pocket is far the 
key to the bath-house. This ansu'ers 
the call for something which will not 
give way at the waist, as some do wh°n 
the parts are sewn together. — Shown 
by the Monarch Knitting Co., Dunn- 
ville, Ontario. 

Dry Goods Review 



tirely different from those which receiv- 
ed such an apathetic welcome from the 
trade last season. Developed out of 
feather-weight yarns, such as the mo- 
hair, and lacy in the extreme, they will 
offer the last word of lightness and 
smartness. They will constitute the 
universal costume for country and in- 
formal city wear next summer and are 
assured of instant approval already. 

Tuxedo to Have Competitor 

Insofar as the regulation sweater is 
concerned, the more exclusive designers 
of knit goods declare that the tuxedo is 
on the wane, that is to say, that buyers 
are on the lookout for novelty goods 
and are no longer interested in the ultra 
conservative line sweater. To begin with, 
the Canadian silhouette has now fully 
fallen in with that which has prevailed 
in the United States for the past year, 
and where formerly the Canadian 
women looked askance upon the pull- 
over style as being too extreme for her 
type or too unbecoming in line, now 
fully three-quarters of the demand is 
for the "over-the-head" garment. It is 
true that many new varieties have been 
evolved which camouflage the slip-over 
into a very becoming garment even to 
the stout figure, and with the tendency 
to feature narrow pinstripes in vertical 
effect, in contrasting color upon all the 
newer models, every figure does appear 
more slender than it is in reality. The 
only model shown which in any manner 
resembled the tuxedo style was short in 
length, loose in fit, and had a vestee of 
the same yarn set at the opening. A 
jaunty turn-down collar however, was 
used at the neck and there was no turn- 
back effect whatever to face the front. 
Crocheted buttons or a string tie at the 
neck were the sole elaborations. 

Where the tuxedo reigned supreme 
the cape will now be in demand, it is 
thought, and the pullover will be the 
ideal garment for golfing, tennis or all 
other sports of an active nature which 
require snugly fitting garments per- 
mitting much freedom of action. 

Sleeveless Sports Coats 

Many more novelties are shown by 
other Montreal manufacturers, which in- 
clude a smart sleeveless style of pillar- 
box red yarn striped with white arti- 
ficial silk in wide barred effect. A 
plain sash of the red yarn finished the 
waist. When worn over white the effect 
is extremely smart. Another very ef- 
fective little sweater was of cardinal 
wool cut very short but with the lower 
edge Van Dyked into deep points all 
round. The short sleeves and tuxedo 
front were of pearl gray brushed wool 
in a furry finish. 

Other Novelties 

Silk and wool mixed combined to form 
a very striking model in American 
Beauty shade knitted in a loose fancy 
stitch. The collar was of white and the 
edges all round were buttonholed as 
though by hand. Another very unusual 
novelty was in a "Peggy O'Neill" coatee 
of black and white wool, knitted in a 

curious twisted effect combining the 
two colors in a mottled finish. This 
model was hip length and finished with 
a tuxedo front and short sleeves. A 
Balkan middy sweater in pullover style 

of fawn wool had its collar developed out 
of white brushed wool which closely re- 
sembles the new Krepe-Knit fabric, most 
unusual and smart. This was a child's 

Complete srdt of jersey cloth made for children up to seven years. It is 
light in weight and washable. Made in navy, brown, green and heather mix- 
tures. — Shown by the Albion Knitting Co., Petekboro, Ontario. 



Dry Goods Review 

Is Tuxedo to Have Rival in Pullover 

Question Raised by Action of American Makers in Promoting 

Pullover — Knitted Goods Have Had Unusual Advertising by 

Consumer Press — Some of The New Bathing Models — Silk and 

Wool Combinations in Outer Garments 

THKKE is reason to believe that the 
Tuxedo will have as a rival the pull- 
>ver or slip-on sweater this Spring 
and Summer. American makers of knitted 
goods are stressing the pullover again. 
One prominent Canadian manufacturer 
believes that the heavy stocks of these 
garments which some mills have held 
over from last year and even from the 
year before, is responsible for the stress 
which is being placed on this style now. 
The trade 'would not buy anything but 
Tuxedos last Spring at any price and 
many manufacturers had not prepared 
for such a heavy season in these and 
were consequently left with thousands 
of pullovers. 

The best sweater in the pullover 
style for this Summer will be one with 
the very deep V neck. This is more be- 
coming than the old style and more 
easily worn with a lace yoke. The> j 
will not be as many sweaters of one 
color as in other seasons, designers de- 
clare. Women want combinations of 
colors this year, not only in sweaters 
but in sports sui's, bathing suits, hose 
and wraps. 

Unusual Publicity for Knitted Goods 

Two manufactuers of worsted yarns, 
one in Peterborough and one in Toron- 
to, say that the great publicity which 
consumer papers, not interested except 
in a general way, have been giving to 
knitted^ goods, has already been felt. 
The Ladies' Home Journal, the Pictorial 
Review and one or two Canadian papers 
have stressed them considerably this 
year. Sentiment is better than it ever 
was. The consumer and the trade are 
looking for their Spring and Summer 
supplies in knitted wear, just as they 
are for ready-to-wear and millinery. A 
year ago, travellers said that retailers 
were very much afraid that the vogue 
was only transient and that last year 
was not the time to take a chance. They 
do not discuss the possible dangers this 
Spring. Most buyers are very partic- 
ular as to quality and workmanship. 
They are on the lookout for something 
new and are not looking for the cheap- 
est lines. 

One manufacturer who has built m> a 
splendid business in a little more than 
a year by his steady attempt to give 
service, says that the trade is ordering 
all the time but that their policy of 
buying from hand to mouth last year 
was found to have so many merits that 
many continued i* without any mone- 
tary reason. He thinks that manufac- 
turers should not be discouraged with 
small orders, for, in the long run. mer- 
chants are buying just as much or more 

than they did by '.he old system. He 
believes that manufacturers should pre- 
pare for a season of this by stocking 
enough ahead to ship immediately on 
receipt of orders. The trade have be- 
come so discouraged with the months 
of waiting which have inevitably follow- 
ed orders during the last few years, 
that they are ready to notice a man 
who can ship immediately. 

The demand for yarns tends toward 
the vivid hues t'.iis Spring. There is 
less call for black and white than there 
was last year though these may come 
back lateo- on. At present the trade 
want hand-knit ing in burnt orange, 
Harding b'ue and peacock bliie. 

A sweater designed for warmth as well 
as appearance. The checks in black and 
white on the reverse and at bottom of 
sweater have been made on a special 
machine. Dome fasteners fasten the rev- 
eres down when worn in the tuxedo style 
and loops and buttons allow the sweater 
to be buttoned up at the throat for win- 
ter sports.' — Shown by the Cornell 
Knitting Company, Peterboro, Ont. . 

One manufacturer is doing a splendid 
business in brush wools These he sells 
by the yard and in different widths. He 
has them as narrow as two inches and 
as wide as twenty-four inches. There 
has been a splendid demand for these 
for collars and cuffs in suits and sweat-, 
ers. Not only garment manufacturers 
but the public are glad to find a knitted 
material which may be cut and sewn 
on, like ordinary piece goods. 
New Bathing Suits 

All the knitting mills say that they do 
not intend to lose business this Summer 
as they did last year, by not having 
bathing suits. They say that those who 
had them feel no reason to be grateful 
.0 the trade for clearing them out but 
1o the public who forced the sale of 

Most of the bathing suits are made 
up in two color combinations, the con- 
trast being shown not only with trim- 
mings but by making the parts in dif- 
ferent colors. For example, one suit 
has a black skirt and upper part with 
green trunks and sleeves. Thei strap 
is being used in bathing suits for this 
year also although it does not seem as 
serviceable a garment as the one with 
the surplice shoulder. 

Trade Not Buying Locally 

One manufactrurer who is doing a 
splendid business in ladies' and chil- 
dren's wear, says that he can sell every- 
where in Canada but in the towns with- 
in a radius of twenty-five miles where 
his mill is. Not long ago he picked up 
a sweater in a retail store in his vic- 
inity. He asked where it was bought 
and was told in Monteral. It was one 
of a lot which he had sent to a whole- 
sale house in Montreal. The retailer 
had told him some weeks previously 
that he liked the garments he was ob- 
taining from Toronto and Montreal 
better than the ones this manufacturer 
had to offer. He says that the mer- 
chants who fail to buy at home, are 
losing excellent opportunities of help- 
ing themselves by giving work to their 
customers. They should try and forget 
the old buying: policy that the best 
sroods are obtained! farthest from home. 
Moreover the additional expenses caus- 
ed by handling and shipping should be 
taken into account. 

Silk and Wool Good 

There is a call for silk and wool com- 
binations in outer apparel. At the mo- 
ment it is very good in almost every 
line. The effect of silk on wool ans- 
wers the appeal for combinations of 
colors and there is very little expense 
(Continued on page 63) 

Dru Goods Revieiv 



Believe. Wool Hose Strong for Fall 

Manufacturers Have Faith That Sports Styles Will Be Popular 
For Next Season — Salespeople Should Study Manufacture So 
They Can Sell Better— Soft Tones Are Favored For Fall Wear- 
New Hose For The Lumberman 

"Nowadays, knitted wool hose plays 
such a prominent part in the sale of 
knitted goods, that salespeople should 
be conversant with the salient points in 
regard to their care," declares a man 
who is making a splendid line of all- 
wool hose. "Ten or fifteen years ago," 
he says, "when wool was worn much 
more extensively in underwear and in 
stockings than it is now, women under- 
stood how to prevent shrinking. Their 
mothers taught them. To-day they know 
a great deal about silks but very little 
about wools. Clerks who understand 
something about them, can do much to 
help both the retailer and the manufac- 
turer in promoting their use." 

Wool fibre consists of a hollow cyl- 
inder, which is filled with oil. When one 
considers that there are 500 corusca- 
tions to the square inch of material, 
some idea may be obtained of the num- 
ber of these hollow fibres in an ordin- 
ary wool stocking. These cylinders are 
filled with animal oil, which gives 
warmth and elasticity to the wool. When 
the oil dries out, the cylinders collapse 
and this collapse causes the shrinkage 
of the article. 

There are two principal causes of the 
drying up of this oil. One is hot water. 
Water hotter than the hands can stand, 
is too hot for wool. The other is alkali. 
Cheap, alkaline soaps, break down the 
molecules in the oil and cause the col- 
lapse of the fibre." 

Hosiery for Fall 

Nearly all the manufacturers of knit- 
ted goods in Canada, are laying special 
emphasis on wool hose for next fall and 
winter. They have faith in the duration 
of sports lines and of hose in particular. 
It is not probable that heavy buying will 
begin this month however, as buyers 
seem in doubt as to the stability of 
prices. There is a great deal of shopping 
being done and low-priced goods are 
getting a certain amount of prominence 
in most centres. 

There is a general feeling of confi- 
dence in wool and silk mixtures and in 
cotton and silk mixtures. With raw silk 
at a price which is still considered high, 
there is every reason to believe that the 
public will be satisfied with mixtures. 
The lightweight mixture hose will be 
very much better than the heavy lines. 
The bulkiness of the latter is very much 
against them and of course they are 
much higher in price. 

For women's sport hose, manufactur- 
ers are favoring the soft tones, especial- 
ly the dull blues, grays, light-fawn, 

sand and tan. Some are em- 
broidered in such a way that 
while they enhance the value of the 
whole costume they do not clash. Sales- 
women who are interested, have splen- 
did opportunities these days of instruct- 
ing customers in the importance of 
hosiery in the general color schemes. 
Many women seen on the golf links and 
on the ice these days ruin their outfits 
with the hosiery they wear. A traveler 
who has made a study of costuming the 
sportwoman declares that she should 
wear hose that contain both the color of 
the suit worn and of the shoes as well. 
If her shoes are tan, her hose should 
have brown or tan stripes, and if they 
are black, she should select stockings 
which have at least a black clock. 

One Canadian mill, at any rate, is try- 
ing to give Canadians the same hose as 
may be obtained in the old country. 
These are made of long-fibred English 
wools. They are fashioned and fit the 
ankle like silk hose, although they are 
of heavy weight. The top of the hose has 
85 s'^chP 1 -'- these drop to 58 at the nar- 
rowest point. 

Footlets for Lumbermen 

The salesman for an Ontario mill is 
carrying a footlet to be worn with socks 

by lumbermen who need additional 
warmth. The trade have not yet seen 
them but the large lumber companies 
have placed splendid orders for them. 
This footlet idea is one which originat- 
ed with a desire to prevent bulk around 
the ankle, which is always the case when 
several pair are worn. These come just 
to the boot-top. They are only about 
two-thirds the price of the whole sock. 

Underwear Lines Not So Active 

Retailers and wholesalers agree that 
there is no time like the present to make 
a study of underwear needs. The revival; 
of business should bring with it the ap- 
plication of all the lessons which manu- 
facturers have learned about the mak- 
ing of undergarments. The public want 
first of all comfort, which means fit, 
then price, and finally decoration. Man- 
ufacturers who are working along these 
lines cannot go far astray because they 
are offering merchants saleable gar- 
ments. : . I 1] 

The Phoenix Novelty Co., has moved 
to larger quar.iers at the corner of Dun- 
can & Adelaide St., Toronto. The new 
factory is bright and airy and well 
adapted for the fine neckwear made by 
this company. 

Two lovely scavfs for sports wear. They are of silk on one side and brushed' 
ivool on the other. The scarf on the left has a bright red ground with 
stripes of black and white. The other is black and white. The lustre of the 
silk is very effective. — Shown by the Monarch Knitting Company, 

Dunnville, Ontario. 



Dry Goods Review 

Featuring Fancy Hosiery for Easter 

Will Be Important Accessory For Spring Wear — New Colors 
And Fancy Embroideries Shown By Montreal Importers — The 
"Nothing At All" Shade— Embroidered Anklets Is One Of The 
Newest Things On The Market. 

«TTTE BELIEVE that Easter 1922 
V/V/ is going- to see the biggest 
fancy hosiery seasons ever ex- 
perienced in the trade," said a Montreal 
hosiery and fancy goods importer to 
Dry Goods Review this month. "Every- 
thing points to a tremendous demand for 
fancy goods of this description, includ- 
ing heathers, colored hose in silks and 
mixtures, clocked effects and openwox'k 
novelties. The demand just now is for 
either heavy wool or ribbed silk sports 
hose or the finest of sheer thread silks 
elaborated in unusual ways. There is no 
other line of accessories to feminine 
dress, with the possible exception of 
gloves, which is so completely confined 
to fancy numbers to the exclusion of the 
regular staple lines." 

This authority believes that we shall 
continue to see heather mixtures worn 
until next fall at least, and that once the 
vogue for woolen stockings wanes with 
the advent of spring days, the heavy 
ribbed silk varieties will replace them for 
sports wear and for accompanying the 
homespun suits decreed by the mode. 
These wide ribbed stockings are partic- 
ularly attractive in neutral shades and 
come in ribs varying from 4 to 1, and 6 
and 2, to 11 and 3. Silk and wool in shot 
effect can be counted upon to remain in 
favor for some months at least. 

Beaded Hose For Formal Wear 

In hosiery for formal wear, sheer 
weights in thread silk seem to be in 
greatest demand, especially in the new 
pointed heel effect which lends the ankle 
such a slender appearance. This partic- 
ular type of stocking is now being offer- 
ed to the trade in a seamed back or 
fashioned effect leg and can be obtained 
in fancy dropped stitch in addition. The 
leading colors in silk hosiery for spring 
will include seal and cordovan browns 
and beige, but a strong bid for favor is 
being made by all white hosiery and 
since innumerable smart novelties are 
shown in both Italian and thread silk, 
featuring lacy effects and clocking, quite 
different from ordinary elaboration. 
Beads, of th,e tiny crystal variety, are 
being lavishly employed on dressy 
hosiery for evening wear with quite 
charming results. One smart chestnut 
brown pair seen in a Montreal showroom 
this month had a three inch motif in 
floral design done entirely in beads just 
over the instep. The manufacturers 
claim that the beads will in no way in- 
terfere with the washing properties of 
the hose, and the richness of the beading 
upon the silk is unusually smart, esp?ci- 
ally when worn with beaded slippers. 
These new stockings may be obtained 

in the fashionable shades as well as in 
white and black. 

Embroidery Reproduces Gems 

Embroidered anklets are the latest 
word from some Canadian silk hosiery 
makers, one of whom is planning to put 
out an exclusive range this month, which 
will be more unusual than any style yet 
created. The effect, it is said, will by that 
of a jewelled bracelet, developed in vivid 
silks, to reproduce the effect of a bit of 
barbaric or antique jewellery worn 
around one ankle. Practically every 
wanted color combination will be obtain- 
able when this line is placed on the mar- 
ket, and the workmanship will be of su- 
perlative quality, being entirely hand 
done by experienced embroiderers. 

"Nothing at All" — New Evening Shade 

A few striking imported hose are on 
view in a leading Montreal showroom for 
immediate selling and include such start- ' 
ling effects as the "nothing at all" or 
nude shades, which are unrecognizable 
from flesh itself. Then there are some 
striking novelties in lace clocks which are 
sufficiently open work in effect to ap- 
pear in good contrast to the darker 
shade of stocking. Open work clocks are 
said to promise well for Easter selling 
as well as the solid embroidered type in 
either single or triple stripe effect. 

For the Sportswoman 
Heavy angora hose in a smart camel's 
hair shade, clocked in brilliant blue or 
brown are considered very smart at pres- 
ent for winter sports and are frequently 
sold with gauntlets to match or with a 
voluminous scarf of the same shade. Men 
are enquiring for vests in camel's hair 
effect as well, it is said. 

Several leading importers of hosiery 
in Montreal state that no more full- 
fashioned hosiery can be obtained till 
June next from the manufacturers, des- 
pite rumors that there will be a plenti- 
ful supply. Canadian mills are booked 
with orders till August next and in cer- 
tain lines of hosiery, notably children's 
fancy socks and three-quarter length 
hosiery, it is impossible to get merchan- 
dise of any description. There is an 
enormous demand for striped socks for 
children, especially with brightly colored 
fibre silk bands inset in the cuffs, and 
no further deliveries can be got' on this 
line for many months to come. It is an- 
ticipated that the demand for three- 
quarter and "roll-top" hosiery will be 
greater than ever, despite the decrees 
of the censors, and the trade is advis- 
ed to look for its stocks as early as pos- 
sible lest a shortage take them unawares. 


(Continued from page 48) 
this subject. These people say that 
there will be very little trimming used 
except lace or one large flower. This 
large hat trims itself by its effective 

Appliqued flowers will be favored on 
the allover straw hats. Flat, pale pink 
ones and the deeper tones of rose pink 
flowers are best. There will, however, 
not be a great many of the allover straw 
shown for the first few months. Solid 
straws have no place in public favor 
either in New York or here. 

With each day the turban shape be- 
comes more prominent. Three and 
four-cornered toques are best of all. 
Before the Summer is over only the very 
large and the very small shapes will be 
prominent. The in-between sizes of this 
winter will scarcely be seen. 

The soft pull-on type of hat is largely 
favored for the younger set. Even the 
sailors lack the stiffness usually asso- 
ciated with them. Some sailors have a 
soft scarf draped on the side. Tile blue 
is the favored shade in these youthful 
hats but lemon is in demand also. 

In all the houses there is a distinct 
absence of the black and white combin- 
ation. Many of them still keep to 
brown, there is some henna, and as men- 
tioned before, black is good but never 
black and white. 

A short-brimmed mushroom sailor has 
a folded crown of tile blue Milan and is 
faced with blue and white novelty rib- 

Tricorne, with crown and brim top of 
black cire serge ribbon and facing of 
taffeta flowers in tile blue. 

A very smart chapeau of beige and 
brown hemp combined with haircloth, 
the draped crown having a circle of 
large daisies. 

One hat of black tagel has its brim 
rolling very softly upwards in front and 
is faced with black grosgrain ribbon. 
The ribbon is looped at the back and 
there are long quills at either side of the 

An allover lace hat of large propor- 
tions with jet pin and ornaments. 

Semi-sports model is a satin pull-on 
of nigger-brown with the brim faced 
with terra-coitta georgette. Both the 
satin and the georgette are quilted in 
diamond shape. 

A mushroom hat of satin finely tuck- 
ed on the bias, has a novelty brim edged 
with a stiff row and covered with a 
corded ribbon of cinnamon brown. The 
hat itself is mole color. 

One draped turban in the new Sahara 
shade has a bird for trimming along 
with hair-braid. 

Dry Goods Review 



Sales Staff in Underwear Dept. 

Important Factor in Larger Sales — Can Use Dozen 
Suits of Underwear a Year — Three Distinct Seas- 
ons — Merits of Knitted Underwear 

((TTTHY is it that all the sales 
l/y/ girls with personality and sell- 
" " ing ability are put in the de- 
partments that do not require stimulus?" 
asked a customer in a Montreal store 
the other day. "I can tell for myself 
whether or not a frock or a hat is go- 
ing to be suitable for my purposes, but 
I never seem to be able to get accurate 
information about underwear for my- 
self or my husband, for some reason or 

This opinion, overheard in the eleva- 
tor of a department store, suggested ar. 
idea which when put to practical test 
proved that the lady was nearly right. 
In one case, a sales girl at the under- 
wear counter seemed to have plenty of 
information at her command regarding 
what was in stock and the various quali- 
ties of the merchandise but she never 
seemed to grasp the fact that she could 
have sold more garments than the cus- 
tomer intended buying or a better grade 
than she asked for. 

Three Seasons for Underwear 
Underwear nowadays is possessed of 
almost as many advantages to use as 
talking points as is ready to wear, and 
certainly the style element is no longer 
absent. With three different seasons to 
look after, and their varying weights 
and styles peculiar to each, and the fad 
for colors and different textiles, not to 
mention the hundred and one styles of 
neck and sleeves which are now on the 
market, it would seem as though only 
sales girls possessed of much more than 
average ability were needed to merchan- 
dise goods of so varied a type. 

Another case investigated proved that 
the sales girl in question was over-anx- 
ious to sell only high-priced garments 
and continually embarrassed the custom- 
er by remarking, "Of course we have 
cheaper lines than these, but you would 
not want to see those, would you?" 
Still another sales clerk proved to be so 
bored with her work that she could not 
summon up enough energy to look for 
the different lines enquired for by the 

Of course, it is recognized that all 
sales girls cannot be possessed of the 
kind of wide-awake personality which 
stands for success in business life, but 
at least it is the store's duty to see that 
the departments which are deficient in 
color and attractiveness shall at least be 
provided with a selling force of more 
than usual ability. For knit underwear 
is one of the few lines in a store which 
has little or no personality of its own 
and depends upon that which is given 
it by the sales clerk. 

Formerly the average store had the 
idea that no more suits of underwear 
could be sold than could be worn out by 
a customer in a year. Now that is all 
changed. The average woman can find 

a use for a dozen different kinds of un- 
derwear each season, depending upon the 
purpose she wishes to wear it for. But 
first of all, there must be the right kind 
of sales staff, each member of which 
knows the secret of investing her mer- 
chandise with the magic of personality, 
maybe by the inflection of her voice or 
the manner in which she holds up a vest 
for examination, and most of all in the 
knowledge she imparts to her customer 
regarding the character of the goods. 
Which is Better? 

What are some of the properties of 
cotton and wool underwear which should 
be thoroughly understood by the selling- 
force? For example, which are best, 
the knit or woven varieties of under- 

According to a manufacturer who has 
given the question considerable thought, 
there is no definite advantage in one 
type over another. Woven underwear is 
made of yarn tightly twisted in spinning 
and it is a fact that moisture will eva- 
porate from it more slowly than from 
the knitted yarn. The looseness of 
knitter parn means that this type of un- 
derwear will absorb more moisture than 
woven fabric underwear in the long run, 
and it will also permit its moisture to 
pass rff more quickly into the air. 
Knitted light weight underwear is the 
ideal raiment for a hot day, for not 
only does it take a good deal more pers- 
piration to make it cling but even when 
thoroughly wet, it has a certain amount 
of elasticity which prevents the clammy, 
sticky feeling of the woven fabric. This 
point of comparison is employed because 
the chief competition between knitted 
and woven underwear comes in hot 


(Continued from page 60) 
in running the two together in the dye- 
ing, as the silk will not take the same 
color as wool. 

Manufacturers are taking peculiar 
care this year in the matter of cut. 
Most of the best grades are knitted in- 
to shape instead of stitched and all he 
edges are selvaged to prevent stretch- 
ing. Some very attractive models are 
going out to the trade during the next 
few weeks. Three piece outfits, which 
have found favor for skating and sports 
this Winter will be stressed more than 
ever for Fall buyinig. Peter Pan collars 
are shown on both tuxedos and slip- 
ons. Roman borders are favored but 
they will be shown mostly in the nigh- 
priced goods. One desie-ner believes 
that by next Fall, both the slip-on and 
the tuxedo will give way to the suit- 
coat and sweater of the Russian Mouse 
style, buttoning up at the neck and 
oDening at the side. 

Here is a choker which should take 
with the little ones. It is modelled like 
the grown-up's fur choker. Comes in all 
the heather shades and is made of brush- 
ed wool. It is very neat in appearance 
and inexpensive. — Shown by the Mon- 
arch Knitting Co., Dunnville, Ont. 


(Continued from page 51) 
and plenty of mirrors are provided both 
on the walls and upon the display tables, 
as well as innumerable easy chairs of 
wicker, cushioned in gay cretonnes. Over 
head, canary birds sing continually in 
quaint wicker cages, and create an 
illusion of summertime amid this 
garden of flowery millinery. According 
to Mr. Kirtley, it is essential that the de- 
partmert be accessible from all sides, 
otherwise women are not so likely to 
pass through or to be impelled to pur- 
chase. Fullv three out of every five 
sales of millinery are what are called 
"impulse" sales, bought because the hat 
attracted the buyer's fancy, not because 
it was really necessary. 

The Salesladies 

The salesladies in the millinery de- 
partment should be of varied types, 
young and mature, blonde and dark, 
slim and plump. The reasons for this 
dictum according to Mr. Kirtley, are 
rational. Customers like to be wa ; tcJ 
on by girls who approximate them in 
appearance, and they can be more read- 
ily persuaded to buy when they see how 
a hat looks upon someone else of their 
own type. 

Never under any circumstances should 
a "spiff" or "P. M." be placed upon mil- 
linery to push it out quickly. Vanity 
goods must never be sold upon this basis. 
Far better put the hats on sale at a price 
which will move them than to resort to 
this means. 

Above all other things get the people 
into the department. Do not attempt to 
sell millinery over the telephone or en- 
courage customers to ask for goods in 
this manner. 



Dry Goods Review 

LAST Spring and Fall were good seasons for 
Knitted Fabrics. But every indication 
points to the conclusion that the coming Spring 
will surpass all others in this branch of the 
trade — that Knitted Fabrics and Homespuns 
will come first and foremost in sports suits, 
cloaks and coats. The above page from the 
Dry Goods Economist is ample proof of this 

Hawthorn Fabrics have long since proved their 
worth. They have even invaded the style centres 
of New York, while in Canada they will be 
demanded more than ever this Spring. They 
will be made up in some delightfully novel styles 
for the Spring trade by Canada's leading manu- 
facturers. And every garment will bear the 
Hawthorn label. 

Hawthorn Mills Limited 

Carleton Place, Ont. 


Dry Goods Review: 




. 2&*+* 

A similar machine 
condenses the fibres 
into this soft wool 
rope called 
roving! 1 


The spinning mule, 
by twisting the 
strand, compresses 
the roving into fine 
wear resisting yarn. 

Qreaf looms wave 
the tasted yam 
into Jblankets 
WO inches wife 

r/ <?<? 

ONI/Ycfeni.iiev wool 

and NEW wool only 

is used in 


The ■wool is dyed 
Tyfalein this state. 


V% V*" -.S*^^^"* 


It is not too late 

to profit 

from the sale of 


l&ed buns called teazles 
revotano'dgajjist Uie unfin 
ished iabric raise the sur- 
face into the soft wool down 
that so closely resembles 
fur in feel and warmth. 



A window of these attractive bed blankets 
with the interesting display material pictured 
above will quickly demonstrate its efficiency 
in building sales and profits. 

These Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets are 
the attractively patterned, delightfully col- 
ored, Canadian made bed blankets which have 
won the attention of so many of our best 
stores the past year. 

The display material is furnished free on 

request to dealers who purchase 24 pairs or 

Order a case to-day, make the display, and 

test for yourself the profit possibilities of 

this quick turning line. 

The solid colors with worsted edging can be 

profitably featured throughout the summer 

for camp and cottage use. 

Please specify the finish desired — whether 

whipped all around with worsted or bound 

across ends with 3-inch satin ribbon. 


Arnprior, Ontario 



Sizes— 72 x 84 and 60 x 84. 
Weight erf larger size — Approximately 4 pounds each 

blanket, 8 pounds the pair. 
Stock — Pure new wool only. 

Shrinkage — Woven 100 inches wide, shrunk to 72 inches 
at the mill. 

Patterns — Solids and Kenwood checks. 

Colors — Unfading dyes. 

Solids of Checks of 

43-C Rose-white 
43-D Blue-white 
43-E Tan-white 

43-N Tan 
43-B Grey 
43-A White 

Bindings — Either embroidered with worsted 
edging, or finished across ends with 3- 
inch satin ribbon. 


fEN WOO p 




Dry Goods Review 


The Underwear 
ikat Overyears 




E. H. Walsh & Company 
Montreal & Toronto 

Selling Agents for .< 

Quebec, Ontario and Western Provinces 

A Burritt Creation 

Something New in a 
Knitted Suit 

Fashioned from the choicest of 
yarn in the most popular of 
color combinations, this strik- 
ing sports model is bound to 
create a demand. 

Travellers now on the road 
with newest samples. 

A. Burritt & Co. 

Mitchell, Ont. 

Established 1875 

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair 
Men's Seamless Gloves, Pullovers, Toques, 
Boys' and Men's Ribbed Worsted Hosiery. 

Dry Goods Review 



Sturdy Stockings- 
Rapid Sellers 

"LJ ERE'S a line of youngsters' stockings specially suit- 
able for cold weather sales — Rock Rib and Hercules. 

These strong, durable stockings are closely knit from ex- 
tra long yarn, with a double-ply leg and three-ply heel and 
toe. They'll keep youngsters warm on the coldest day. 
And just as important — they'll save mother mending. 

Sizes 5 to IO14. In boxes of one dozen pairs. 

Your wholesaler can supply you with these fine stockings. 
Check over your stock and fill your incomplete sizes now. 

The Chipman-Holton Knitting Company, Limited 
Hamilton, Ontario 

Mills at Hamilton and Wetland, Ontario 


Ifos£&r*j/ For* 
Bays and Girls 

Buster Brown 
Three Eighties 
Little Darling 
Little Daisy 
Rock Rib 


~ ~¥ -:' 


Princess stockings are ex- 
cellent for the girls. Made 
from two-ply English Lisle 
yarn. These stockings are 
hard wearing, and have 
a most attractive appear- 
ance. Sizes 4 1-2 to .10. 




Dry Goods Revieu 




They Sell the Mothers 

Link-and-link purl stitched kiddie garments of 
finest Australian botany yarn are now made 
possible by special machinery which we have in- 
stalled to meet the wide demand among mothers 
for this class of goods. 


Knit Goods for Kiddies 

in this style have the attractiveness and closely- 
knit strength of the best hand-made woollens, 
which are the ideal of all mothers. They sell 
the mothers and make them your steady cus- 

We know that you will be interested in the 
exceptionally attractive prices we are able to 
give you eta this high class of goods. 


259 Spadina Avenue 



Supreme in Value, Quality and Demand 

The continual demand for Peerless Underwear is 
born of a Dominion-wide recognition of its value — its 
supreme Quality and long lasting merit. 

Peerless Underwear, too, offers a good profit to 
the retailer. 

For Women — Children — Infants 


Peerless Underwear 
Company, Limited 

Controlled by 

J. R. Moodie & Sons, Limited 
Hamilton, Ont. 

ik^Am^MmitfcitMfc^ liu. iui ini uii rnTrnr^TTvjnrfrrrir^iftt^ 

Dry Goods Reviexo 




2/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children 

I / 1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children 

Thomson Knitting Co. Limited 





20 Wellington St. West 

Hammond Block 
Winnipeg, Man. 

J. B. TROW & CO. 

Old Birks Building 




Dry Goods Review 

Your Patrons Are 


They Will Appreciate 

Circle-Bar Hosiery 

They want hosiery that fits perfectly and is of superior quality — the unobtrusive 
hosiery that harmonizes with well-cut clothes. Circle Bar Hosiery provides for 
perfect fit and comfort with its tapering toe, extra heel depth and narrowed 
ankle. And using only the pure silk, the finest wool and long fibre cotton, 
quality is guaranteed. 

All styles in silk, wool, mercerized, lisle and cotton. 

The Circle-Bar Knitting Co., Limited 

Head Office 

Kincardine, Ont. 




Buy British Goods 

Deliveries can be given from stock or 
for import — 

HORROCKSES: Cottons, Nainsooks, Sheet- 
ings, etc. • 

Draperies, Comforters, etc. 

JAFFE BROS., LTD.: Fancy Irish Linens, 
and Handkerchiefs. 

Scotch blankets. 

WM. HOLT & SONS: Towels and quilts. 


Dry Goods Commission Agent 
591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal 


64 Wellington St. W.. 615 Pender St. W 

Toronto Vancouver, B.C. 

29 Minshull St., Manchester. Enp. 


The newest shades for Men, 

Women, Boys and 


Send us your requirements. We 
will submit samples and prices. 

Lavoie Knitting Co. 

Peterborough - Ontario 

You Can Endorse 
Mitchell All-wool Plaids 

to the limit and know that the material will live 
up to your every endorsement. 
The Spring demand is brisk. Order in time to 

Mitchell Woollen Co., 


Mitchell . . . Ontario 

Men's & 






Sport Crps 

Heather Sox 

Black and 






Dry Goods Review KNITTED GOODS 71 




Now is The Normal Placing Season 



Pure Wool Products 

Get Back to Normal ! 

When the mills work, the workman buys 


"Weight and warmth for the outdoor man" 
Combinations that fit, and two-piece garments for Men and Boys 


Quality goods that rank with the world's best 

In whites and fancy. Special — Attractive line of pure wool bed covers 

and nursery blankets 


Dyed in the wool fast colors. Write for shade card 

Our guarantee backs every sale 
Sold through the wholesale trade 

Agents : 

H. J. FOX. 



152 Bar St., 

44 Aiken Bldg., 

807 Mercantile Bldxr 




General Sales Office : 35 St. Nicholas St., Montreal 

Manufactured by 


Carleton Place - Ontario 




Dry Goods Review 

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ViU-ssT*! VsksBM \.*!2i^s?>i, I V*l2^5rit. I V* k, ' ,,o *'-i,l V*"*! flgu, 1 u* i "u«o <> u.I \*""Ltf* , j,l V'Ssjs?'* 

There is only one make of 
knitted underwear made in 
Canada that is reinforced 
at all wearing parts. 

That is 





Our travellers 
are now on 
the road 
with new 
samples and 
prices — 
with a full 
line of 
and Turn- 
and Infants' 

Don't place 
your order 
until you 
have seen 
our lines. 

Made only by £fa 

of Gait, Canada 

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°7/ie G lo ves and Jiosio zy 7/ou&e <g / Ganadg 

This is a 




"Made-in-Canada by 
Canadian Workers" 

A beautiful material of soft texture and rich finish that washes 
perfectly. The Chamo Suede lends itself to some of the most 
pleasing effects possible in gloves. 


Travellers now on the road 

Griffin Gloves Limited 




Is the keynote of the London knit range of women's, boys' and 
girls' hosiery. Whether it be the lower priced lines in cotton or 
the finer silk lisle or cashmere, the quality is always of that 
standard that builds confidence through satisfaction. 

Now Showing for Fall 1922 

|^ i ijSEBmMSBSBSw 


London Hosiery Mills 


Sol© Sellina Agents ^ ===::: ^^ 

Richard L.Baker^Ca W 


84WellingtonStUfest ^JP 



°Jhe Glov&s and 'Tiosioo^ Hou&e &/ Ganada 


The "Buyword" 

Silk gloves, glove silk lingerie, glove silk hosiery 

Originality of design adds ioo per 
cent, to the selling value of Queen 
Quality products. New numbers 
are showing now. 

See them now for Fall 1922 and 



St. Catharines, Ontario 


There is no matter connected with 
silk hosiery too small or too great tor 
us to willingly look after. That 
single pair of hose in an odd shade 
to match a gown that means your 
rputation for service with the cus- 
tomer, the delivery of orders as 
specified and when specified, so that 
you can fulfil your promises, are but 
items in a service that backs up 
Venus quality at every turn. 

Venus Silk Hosiery Mills 



Selling Agents 

d L. Baker LCo 
Wellington Si. West 

Dry Goods Review • 





Dry Goods Review 

Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece 

For Men, Women and Children 

See this Trade Mark on 
every garment 

Selling Agents 

Ontario and Western 

R. Reade Davis, 

Manchester Building, 

33 Melinda Street, 

Toronto, Ontario. 

Quebec and Maritime 
Provinces : 

William C. Forster, 

128 Bleury St. 

Montreal, Quebec 

AS A RESULT of many suggestions 
from the trade, that we extend our 
Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece lines, we 
are pleased to announce that our selling 
agents are out in their territories, with a 
full line of Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece, 
which includes — vests, drawers, combin- 
ations and bloomers for ladies, and 
waists, bloomers, vests, drawers, combin- 
ations and sleepers for children. 

The samples being shown also include 
the usual Beaver Fleece quality lines in 
two-piece and combinations for boys and 

Our representatives are also showing 
very fine samples of Dods Scotch and 



Elastic Knit, guaranteed 
wool, and Dods Merino. 

You would do well to see them. Every 
garment will cany the new trade-mark — 
our guarantee that the quality is there 
as always. 

(Sold Wholesale Only) 

The Dods Knitting Co. Limited 



Dry Goods Review 








Bring down the H. C. of L. by 
selling High Grade Hosiery at 
greatly reduced prices. 

See our line in Heather, Lovat, 
solid colors, black and white, be- 
fore placing your Spring or Fall 

Our agent will call on you 
with samples. Wait for him. 

The Goderich Knitting Co. 

Goderich, Ontario 

i Miiiiiiiiiiiiiimimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiii iiiiiiii.iimimi: iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiMMiini 



Our representatives are now on the road with 
our new line of CELTIC SILK HOSIERY, in 
attractive, embroidered novelties of undeniable 
originality, highest quality and careful finish. 

You will find it worth your while to inspect this 
latest "CELTIC" showing. 

Selling Agents ; 


224 Empire Bldg. 313 Fort St. 325 Howe St. 



14 Turgeon St. Montreal 

Knitted Sweaters 

for the Stout Woman 

Do you realize that one-third cf the 
women are in the "stout" class? It's 
up to you to capture this large portion 
of the Sweater Trade. 

The quality of Fainer Sweaters is de- 
pendable and the prices are advantage- 
ous to you. 

Sizes 41-43-45. 

$48.00 dc3en 

Made in Navy, Fawn, Cadet and 

The Fainer Knitting 
Mills Limited 

399 St. Lawrence Blvd. 




Dry Goods RevUw 

■***i" : 

Range, Quality and Price 

These are the three features which distinguish 
Mercury products in 1922 — 

And we are going to tell this to the public in 
all the leading daily newspapers and magazines 
from coast to coast. 

Advertisements distinctively Mercury will 
begin to appear in the papers early in March 
and should be of very material help to your sales- 
manship in marketing Mercury Underwear and 

We want our goods behind the counters of 
every good retail store in Canada because people 
are asking for Mercury products by name. 

Write us for full particulars of all our lines. 

Underwear and Hosiery 

Mercury Mills Limited 

Hamilton, Ontario 


Oru Goods Review 


Created by Canadian Handkerchiefs, Ltd. 
Executed by British & Colonial Press. 

For the Wholesale Trade only, by 
Selling Agents: 
Western Canada Eastern Canada 

E. H. Walsh & Co., Winnipeg and Province of Quebec and Maritime 

Vancouver Provinces, 

W. R. Beggs & Co., Toronto W. F. Macoun, Montreal 



Dry Goods Review 

Smart Novelties for Easter Trade 

Montreal Houses Have New Things in Accessories, Gloves, Hos- 
iery and Neckwear — Revival of Jabot Frill — Arrival of Waist- 
coats — Silk and Wool Hose Blended to Wear With Black and 
Tan Shoes to be Strong for Fall Trade — Loose Gloves 

EASTER 1922 will witness a mark- 
ed revival of smart novelty neck- 
wear, according to a leading Mon- 
treal manufacturer whose designers are 
busily engaged at present in evolving 
charming conceits of colored handker- 
chief linen of sheer texture which will 
ultimately be placed upon the market in 
the form of vestees and collar and cuff 
sets along the line of the Bramley ef- 
fect, now firmly established in popular 

Insofar as Canadian trade is concern- 
ed, simplicity will prevail in neckwear. 
Since fashion decrees that sports ef- 
fects shall reign supreme, simple and 
tailored styles will naturally receive 
the most attention. The vogue for sports 
attire has of necessity had an important 
bearing upon the choice of materials 
utilized in the making of the newest 
neckwear, since for accompanying se- 
vere tweeds or strictly tailored home- 
spuns, the fluffy and lace trimmed ac- 
cessories of yester year would be en- 
tirely out of place. 

Jabot Frill Revived 

One Montreal designer whose pro- 
ducts are exceedingly smart and indi- 
vidual slated this month that she ex- 
pected the jaibot frill to be revived 
somewhat on account of the fact that 
many suits are so severe in line that 
some sort of softening effect is imper- 
ative. However, she expects that real 
linen sets in either natural or colorful 
effects will be the rage as soon as furs 
are left off and the new suits are don- 
ned. She is showing a smart flat vestee 
of real linen, pleated in flat unstitched 
folds vertically, finished at the neck by 
a shallow Bramley collar which fastens 
at the back only. A small bow of black 
ribbon edged with white is the sole dec- 
oration. The same vestee is also shown 
trimmed with tiny bullet buttons, self 
covered, placed in clusters upon the 
fronts of the collar and down the front. 
The favorite colors are shell pink, tan, 
natural, and delft blue while grass green 
and rose are also shown. 

Linen BramJey sets inset with real 
filet ]aoe are another popular fad. These 
are also shown in the same range of 
colors as those above. The filet lace 
takes the form of corner motifs. 

The sleeveless fi-ock still demands a 
sheer guimpe, and to satisfy the insist- 
ent call for something new and differ- 
ent this designer is creating a smart 
guimpe of fine ecru net featuring a tux- 
edo collar of real filet lace and inset 
motifs of emjbroidered net. The sleeves 
are rather different from those featur- 
ed last fall and altogether this new var- 

iation should take the fancy of the pub- 
lic without delay. 

Flat vestees of lace and net are again 
offered, but are now composed of many 
rows of fine val lace, row upon row, 
stitched toge her quite flat. This ef- 
fect is exquisite and quite unusual, since 
ihe lace is kept entirely smooth and un- 
ruffled, creating an appearance of an 
allover rather than the fluffy effect of 
last season. 

Other collar sets are finished by a 
folded bias edge with no s itching show- 
ing at all, while others are piped in pa- 
tent leather or black ( ire. 

Among the novel neckwear accessor- 
ies imported this month by a Montreal 
house, were some dainty checked ging- 
ham vests combined with natural linen. 
These vests or "gilets," are spoken of 


With jabot attached trimmed with fine 

Duchess lace. — Shown by the A. B. 

Minnie Company o? Montreal. 

as the newest thing in New York and 
come in many different: styles including 
plain white linen finished with filet 
lace, gingham edged with organdy ruffr 
les, natural linen edged with checked 
gingham and also checked pique. The 
last named group of vests are made in 
slip-on style finished with a roll collar 
and two button closing, the bottom edge 
being finished with pointed tabs or 
some other novel manner which will be 
suiable for wearing with a tweed or 
jersey suit. Cire organdie is said to ' 
very popular for edging the new vestees 
and collar sets. 

Hosiery Notes 

A leading Montreal firm states that 
silk and wool hose blended to wear with 
black and tan shoes will be strong for 
fall wear, while for spring there is 
quite a call for medium grey and beige 
as leading colors in silk hosiery. Prices 
on silk gloves, hose and underwear are 
expected to advance if the present stif- 
fening in the raw silk market continues. 
Raw silk having jumped to $8.65 within 
the past three months, past prices figur- 
ed on the $6 basis can only hold as long 
as present stocks exist. Orders for fu- 
ture delivery cannot be accepted for silk 
goods of any kind until prices on raw 
silk are known. 

A hosiery buyer in an Ottawa store 
commented to Dry Goods Review on the 
fact that patent leather footwear is rap- 
idly becoming the rage both in New 
York and here. Patent leather brogues 
are spoken of as being the latest to ac- 
company the tailored suit and in conse- 
quence stocks of black silk hosiery, or 
anv colors which will look smart with 
black footwear, are being watched care- 
fully. Store buyers say that it is to be 
a big season for silk hosiery again, with 
heavy wool varieties quiet so far r~ 
general wear is concerned. 

There is a new sock or rolled top 
hose offered which features an elastic 
gartered top concealed under the cuff 
of the ton. In black, in short lengths, 
this noveltv will be especially popular 
for bathing hose as the elastic will keep 
it up unwrinkled. 

LooFe Gloves Favored 

In leather gloves there is a distinct 
call for the new "slip-on gloves" for 
both men and women. These are not 
in the least bulky about the wrist and 
have the appearance of gauntlets with- 
out the strap or elastic gusset. Devel- 
oped in mocha, cape, kid or chamois 
these gloves are rapidly becoming pop- 
ular with exclusive trade. 

Dry Goods Review 



Radium Still Very Strong For Fall 

Importers Say It Has Had a Phenomenal Run for a Lace — Popu- 
larity of Spanish Laces and Shawls — Paris Promotes Greater Use 
of Girdles — Some of the New Things in Earrings and Necklaces — 
Jeweler Says Dry Goods Store The Place For Novelties 


¥ REALLY believe tha; radium 
laces will be good until fall and 
even last all during- the fall 
months," declared a manufacturer) of 
laces in Toronto. "Never since I have 
been m business has one lace lasted as 
long as radium," says an importer. A 
third man who has just returned from 
Paris remarked on ;he way that radiums 
are still being featured over there. "If 
radium lace has any rival next season, 
it will be the Spanish. Spanish has 
really been used a li.tle longer, but it 
was not quite so universally taken up 
as the other and for that reason, 1 
think Paris will promote it again." In 
the meantime, wholesale houses are do- 
ing a record business in radiums. One im- 
porter has already sold 300 of the 900 
pieces he is expecting from France dur- 
ing the next three weeks. 

The representative of a Swiss house 

A Bramley collar and vestee which is 
of linen crash. The embroidery and 
drawn-work are hand-done. — Shown by 
Dress Essentials, Limited, Toronto. 

informed our> nepreslentla'uive that all- 
over materials will not be as s.rong 
next season. Flouncings will take their 
place. He says that in the laces and 
other materials used for veiling over 
silks and satlins, chenille will be seen. 
This chenille work is usually of a con- 
trasting material and is hand-done. 

It is used in combination with se- 
quins and sometimes with metal and 
metallic bead.s. Our informant believes 
that chenille will replace t|he all-sequin 
materials but another importer has just 
received a shipment of the latter for fall 
orders and says that he is not afraid 
of being unable to dispose of it. 

Canadian taste for staples is the sav_ 
ing grace for many dress accessory 
houses. Though most of them are 
anxious to feature whatever is new in 
Paris or New York, they usually carry 
as well a quantity of the things which 
those ci ies have relegated to the for- 
gottjen past, because, as one whole- 
saler says, "things die harder here." In 
that way, they are not so often caught 
wth lines which they cannot dispose of 
and which would be the downfall of 
novel »y houses in the big American 

Frills and Furbelows in Lace 

That Spanish laces and Spanish 
shawls will have even a stronger run 
than last year is evident from the way 
that designers and artists are taking 
them up. For the "Wild Cat," a produc- 
tion which is running in the Park The-- 
atre, New York, a drop-curtain has been 
made of a Spanish shawl. It is 35 feet 
high and 40 feet long and there is a 
fringe of six inches depth running along 
sides and bottom. 

Lace is also finding i s way into the 
realm of fans. While the feather fan 
still holds its own, the enormously largo 
ones have given way to the small and 
medium size ones. The French train 
which toured ibis country last fall, 
showed real lace and handpalnting on 
the fans exhibited. It is expected that 
these will be very strong in America 
next winter. The sticks are of tlortoise 
shell or amber inlaid with gold leaf. 
In small fans, spangles and ne's will be 
good to. All the bright colors are 
favored as usual, the pastel shades not 
finding favor in these ornaments. 

Headdresses have been popular 
enough this season to warrant a splen- 
did run for them next year. Rhinestone, 
foliage, silver and gold are probably 
the strongest sellers in these bandeaux. 
The wholesale houses in Toronto did not 
stock very heavily in them this year be- 
cause they were not cer'ain of them but 
several are now placing orders for next 

Girdles, girdles, girdles, says Paris. 
Some are elaborate and some are most 
simple, some are of ribbon and more are 
of metal. Anything is good as long as 
it goes around the waist and hangs 
down. Yes, it must hang down, either 
at one side or at both or in the front. 
It is the vogue for the straight line, 
which is straighter if possible than ever, 
on all the Paris gowns and suits, which 
has simply forced importers to get in 
large supplies of these girdles. Were it 
not for these, the mere male observer 
would wonder whether the female form 
divine possesses a waist line any longer. 

Probably the newest thing in girdles 
is the one of beads. These beads are 
rounded on the sides and flat on the top 
like the old-fashioned ones. They are 
usually fairly large in size and are 
strung firmly in conventional patterns. 
Beads of wood are also used. The color 
scheme follows that of the old West 
(Continued on page 84) 


Novelty English leather belts just re- 
ceived in Montreal which feature unusual 
lacings and cut work effects d°v?loped 
in black patent leather and white kid. 
Tan and blue are also featured in heavier 
leathers. — Shown by G. A. O'Dell of 



Dry Goods Review 

Accessories in Montreal Houses 

Yardage Veils Said To Be in The Lead in Large Spot Patterns— 

The Leather Bag Preferred For Spring With Brisk Demand For 

Moire Silk for Summer Use — Silk and Chamoisette Varieties in 

Washable Gloves— Return of The Belt 


"ONTREAL importers of veilings 
state that yardage veils are 
distinctly in the lead in spot 
patterns of considerable size. The 
newest veilings indeed are quite unusual 
on account of the size of the patterns 
employed. Fuchsia tones, navies and 
browns are good in addition to the 
staple black. The tendency is to get 
away entirely from the small effects 
and to feature instead the large "cherry 
spots" in sizes approximating 1% 

Likewise, the retail buyers are getting 
away from the Chantilly effects in veil- 
ings but are retaining a partiality for 
Shetland veilings for spring. Although 
various sized meshes are demanded, only 
the hexagon pattern is preferred by 
smarter women, it is said. 

The draped veil is being largely 
featured in conjunction with the spring 
millinery openings and many smart hats 
owe their distinction to the use of a 
beautifully embroidered veil draped in 
long points over the back. 

It is recognized that no country can 
excel France in point of veilings and the 
latest importations received in Canada 
bear out this view. Although it may 

Dainty net guimpes are still decreed t > 
accompany Spring frocks. This out is of 
icru trimmed with real filet lace — Show.v 


take time to accustom the conservative 
Canadian women to adopt the veil coL 
orings and somewhat startling border 
effects sponsored by Paris this year, yet 
ultimately they will be adopted, the im- 
porters feel sure. One such veil noticed 
had a scroll design of brilliant berries 
and grapes in clusters worked on it. A 
spider web veil radiating from a center 
where the mesh is more closely woven 
than at the edges was another novelty. 

The Spring Hand Bag 

Leather is once more fashion's favor- 
ite as regards the development of smart 
hand bags for spring. Although there 
is a good demand for more silk bags for 
summer use, leather is nevertheless be- 
coming more and more strongly en- 
trenched in favor. Possibly this is 
accounted for by the fact that the vari- 
ations on leather products are now al- 
most numberless in quantity, permitting 
great latitude in designing novelties of 
this description. 

Among the best liked shapes selected 
for the coming season are the "melon" 
styles in various sizes, the majority of 
which are somewhat larger than the 
average in past seasons. One very 
striking example was developed in 
Hippo leather tending more toward an 
oblong effect. It was lined with tan- 
gerine faille silk and fastened with a 
novelty clasp reproducing a plaster 
plaque in effect. This bag, as well as 
others of the same maker, are finished 
with flat straps crushed at either end 
to give the desired spring without the 
use of metal rings. 

Bordered India leather is effectively 
used for bags which show an embossed 
motif on the flap. These are shown in 
party bags as well as in flat purses and 
handbags. All shades are popular in- 
cluding black, brown, navy and grey. 

Brocaded Leather for Novelties 

Brocaded leather is becoming increas- 
ingly popular as Spring advances, es- 
pecially where novelty goods are con- 
cerned. This satiny and luxurious fab- 
ric develops most successfully into flat 
hand purses, memo pads, etc. It comes 
in many delicate shades resembling rich 
silk. Spider grain leather was used to 
make a large and unusually clever party 
box, designed in such a way that the two 
sides could be unfastened and the con- 
tents reached with ease. Monte Carlo 
grain was still another new leather em- 
ployed to develop these novelties which 
are all the rage at present in New York. 
Lambskin makes a charming party case 
with purse attached in dull grey. The 
fittings in this, as well as the models al- 
readv described are more luxurious than 

for many seasons past, the mirrors, 
vanity cases and perfume bottles, etc., 
being manufactured out of the best 
materials, in many cases sterling or en- 
amel finished. Miladi need no longer 
carry a miscellaneous assortment of 
toilet accessories in her bag, with dis- 
astrous results to the other contents, 
for the reason that in the newest spring 
bags all the fittings are placed in pro- 
tected sections of the interior, and the 
mirror is very often cleverly concealed 
in the outside of the bag so that it is 
not even necessary to lift it out for use. 

Many unusual bags were noticed in 
Florentine finished brocaded leather 
while others were in process of manu- 
facture out of Elite grain, in new tones 
which are heightened by a metallic finish. 
Boarskin will likewise be much used in 
rich plain shades of blue, red, green and 

Genuine Morocco appears in several 
distinguished models which are superbly 
finished in shot silk effects. One such 
bag was unusual by reason of the fact 
that it contained no fewer than eight 
different sections, each of which was 
roomy and easily accessible, yet the bag 
had the fashionable flat appearance. 
(Continued on page 84) 

Embroidered anklets are a novelty shown 
this season in silk hosiery. This model is 
entirely hand embro'dered to reproduce 
the effect of jewels in rich colors. — 
Hosiery Designed and Shown by Cour- 
tesy of the Celtic Knitting Company, 

Dnj Goods Review 



Sport Collar Has 

Big Innings 

Bramley Is Popular Because It Suits 
Sports Clothes— Called "The Col- 
legian" in U. S. 
Ohe might almost say that in some 
circles the Bramley collar is being pro- 
moted to the exclusion of every other 
type. A buyer who has just returned 
from New York reports that this is true 
in that city too. Most stores there call 
it the Collegian. The reason for the 
impetus that is given this spring to 
the Bramley or Collegian is that it is 
particularly suited to the sport type of 
suit which is being made of homespun 
or tweed and looks well with both the 
Tuxedo and the sMp-on sweater. Many 
manufacturers are featuring vestees 
with the collar. There is a great deal 
of variety in the way of ornament and 
material in fact nearly every maker has 
something which is his own in the way 
of design. One importer is stressing 
suede and others are making theirs of 
linen, fancy cotton and piques, because 
they believe they are particularly suited 
to this season of the year. The bright 
shades are shown because it is expected 
that many of the sweaters worn will be 
made of dark wools. Jade, orchid, cin- 
namon, rose, canna and yellow are prob- 
ably seen most of all. One collar in the 
natural shade has inserts of filet and 
another shows a motif of Irish lace. 

Jabot Coming Back 

A Toronto manufacturer who makes 
a special point of introducing every- 

A novelty in the Bramley collar. Shoe 
eyelets have been used to make a very 
effective design. They are rust-proof. — 
Shown by Phoenix Novelry Company, 

thing new in neckwear at the first pos- 
sible moment, has made up a net guimpe 

Two of a French collection of girdles just arrived in Toronto. The one 
on the left is made of the new "square round" beads in black and white. 
It hooks in front, the ends extending from the waist almost to the knees. 
The girdle on the right is of black jet and wood beads, with a relieving 
design in yellow, red, green and white ones. The flat portion at the front 
is a very new feature. — Shown by Sterling Lace and Novelty Co., 


with a jabot, which he believes will be 
good this summer and fall. The day 
that this type of collar returns, will be 
a gala one for the neckwear man, as 
there was never a time when neckwear 
was so universal as when these were in 
before. If Paris decides against the 
boat-shaped neck and the large round 
one, there is every reason to think that 
neckwear will come back into its own. 
And, after all, nothing is as feminine as 
the V neck with the pretty collar and 
many wome.n are complaining against 
the wide neck which is often uncomfort- 
able and becoming to very few. Manu- 
facturers did try to make collars which 
would fit on these wide necks but it was 
found almost impossible because they 
vary so much in size and shape. 

The Peter Pan collar is selling well 
particularly to manufacturers of misses' 
and children's clotthes. It is featured in 
sports flannel in most of the popular 
bright shades. 

For wear with the jumper dresses, 
guimpes with sleeves are shown. Some 
are of organdy and others of Georgette 
and net. One manufacturer is making 
up quantities of cotton loop which is 
narrow braid'-like banding, usually of 
organdy and in all colors. It is used 
very effectively in, one or two colors on 
these guimpes and the few retailers who 
have seen it like it very well. 

Salesmen who are out with spring 
neckwear, report excellent business in 
the larger places. Montreal and Ottawa 
are taking particular notice of the lines 

A Novelty Lace of Wool 

A Toronto importer has just brought 
back with him from France a sample 
of lace made of wool. It is done on a ma- 
chine in the same way as silk or cot- 
ton. The sample he has is of an, all- 
over piece but he is expecting this lace 
in flouncings and in laces of various 
widths. The colors are ivorv, cham- 
pagne, white and grey. Another piece 
has a wool ground relieved by occasional 
touches of silk thread, in a flower de- 
sign. On coarse filet mesh this wool 
lace is very effective. New York is fav- 
oring it very highly as a pleasant re- 
lief from the brilliant laces used this 


Colored handkerchiefs are even 
stronger than they were last fall, a re- 
presentative of a dress accessory house 
informed Dry Goods Review. Openwork 
in almost every type is more popular 
than the solid work. Applique squares 
of a contrasting shade in the corners 
of handkerchiefs are very good and the 
basket designs and gay flowers are still 
being asked for. The broad hem with 
the double hemstitching is used more 
than the narrow rolled hem, because it 
gives handkerchiefs a more finished and 
durable effect than the other. 

J. C. McConnachie of New Glasgow, 
Nova Scotia, has bee» appointed Mari- 
time representative for Ham & Riley 
Silk Co. of Toronto. 



Dry Goods Review 


(Continued from page 82) 
Other soft effects were achieved in 
India leather, in which the share was 
achieved by clever handling of the 
leather to imitate fabric. 

The large leather shopping bag equip- 
ped with car-ticket flap on the outside 
and safety fastener is proving to be a 
good seller already. These bags are 
developed in smart tan or brown shades 
in fancy leathers including the spiders. 
Bags for Formal Use 

For more formal use and to accompany 
the summer costume of silk, etc., there 
are many delightful little bags shown, 
developed in rich moire faille and lined 
in tangerine, ivory, etc. Also many 
smart melon shaped bags are shown, 
made of combinations of silk fabrics, 
including - panel shaped protions of met- 
allic brocade upon plain sections of har- 
monizing satin. The frames which are 
used with such bags are inconspicuous 
and conform to the melon outline, being 
finished merely by slender cords and 
small silk tassels, but no large or heavy 
tassels are now found upon the bottoms 
of the bags. The bags are designed to 
do away with the hard bottom effect en- 
tirely. The silver of the frames is us- 
ually chased or oxidized but the finish is 
kept as quiet and inconspicuous as poss- 

Washable Gloves 

The new spring samples of washable 
gloves from Paris have just arrived in 
Montreal and are decidedly interesting 
in point of novelty and originality. Both 
silk and chamoisette varieties are rep- 
resented in some half a dozen different 
shades. The vogue for the flare cuff 
seems to be definitely established, and 
such a finish on the longer gauntlet is 
very smart, especially when the flaring 
section is attached to the glove proper 
by means of a tiny tubular piping of 
contrasting color. Some doubt is ex- 
pressed here that this type of glove will 
be appropriate with the prevailing styles 
in sleeves for spring, but the coining 
season will be very little different in 
this respect than former years, when 
Paris said one thing and New York an- 
other. The gauntlet will be "the thing" 
insofar as Canada is concerned. 

The majority of the new gloves show 
a tendency to follow the straight cuff 
gauntlet effect with applique work and 



cut work used as decorative features. 
For example, on a smart pair of putty 
colored gloves, a pattern resembling the 
"sawtooth" was appliqued in black 
silk to the edges of the glove all round. 
This trimming was left free at the top, 
being sewn at the edge only. 

A considerable amount of chain stich- 
ing was shown on other gloves, which 
was carried right up the cuff to the 
back of the hand. Other styles which 
featured the turnback cuff were decor- 
ated with small triangles, diamonds or 
circles of dark fabric showing through 
cutwork. Pearl domes were exclusively 
employed as fasteners and in most 
cases the duplex finger tip was featured. 
Belts Return 

On account of the almost universal 
acceptance of the sweater or scarf for 
sports wear belts have found favour 
once more. A Montreal importer of 
British leather goods has just received 
a shipment of novelty belts especially 
suitable for wearing on jumper dresses 
or with scarves, etc. These are for the 
most part of patent leather with lacings 
or threaded effects of white kid which 
are rather like hand embroidery in ef- 
fect. Some belts of tan leather are 
shown also, trimmed with blue contrasts 
showing through cut work such as 
triangles or circles. Plain buckles are 
used. Th; prices on these new belts 
show a surprising decline and the finest 
specimens are obtainable for less than 
sixty cents apiece. 


(Continued from page 81) 
Indian necklaces, red being probably 
most prominent of all. Some of these 
girdles hook neatly around the waist. 
One collection of imported girdles 
shows a tendency to utilize ribbon with 
beads and metal. Faille ribbon is hand- 
embroidered in a pattern of steel beads. 
Streamers ending in heavy cut-steel 
tassels hang from each side. Another 
girdle in black and red has the long cas- 
cade fringe and still another has huge 
knobs of wood covered with tiny beads. 
Crystal and Jade Earrings and Neck- 
Crystal and jade are the favorites in 
ornaments a New York buyer declares. 
Sometimes these are combined with 
other semi-precious stones such as jet, 

and onyx. Girdle, ear.inss, ring, neck- 
lace, and comb are made to match. These 
are worn wLh the simple j. of frocks, 
otherwise the effect of the ornaments 
will be completely lost. Earrings may 
be in any way desirable as long as they 
are large and have drops. 

Combs may be of jet or jade as de- 
scribed above and they may be of brill- 
iants. They must above all give an ir- 
idescent effect if Dame Fashion is to 
smile upon them. They too, should be 
large. The necklaces which are attract- 
ing most attention are the combination 
ones of pearl and crystal. Black silk 
cords are used also finished with an 
onyx oblong or a fringe of pearls. One 
noticeable necklace was a silver chain 
set with onyx. 

Bags for fall are shown in the pouch 
shape. Many flat bead envelopes are used 
as well and some string bags are among 
the best collections. Moire and faille 
silk are promised to have a vogue and 
there are many lovely bags being shown 
already in these materials. 

Where Should Novelties Sell Best? 

A Toronto jeweller is of the opinion 
that the place for novelties is not, as 
many retailers and indeed manufactur- 
ers .hink, the jewellry store. He savs 
that last Christmas he made particular 
note of the number of inexpensive nov- 
elties he disposed of. They were few in 
number as compared with those sold in 
some of the small dry goods stores up- 
town. For example, he ordered two 
dozen ivory perfume novelties for holi- 
day business and disposed of onlv eleven 
of them while a friend of his who has a 
general store on the outskirts of the 
city sold more than three dozen. He be- 
lieves that the same applies to lines like 
necklaces, earrings and other ornaments. 
People come into a jeweller's only when 
they are prepared to buy expensive 
things and to a department store or gen- 
eral dry goods or accessory house when 
they want the cheaper ornaments. 

In connection with this, he said that 
he believes many stores, especially in 
smaller places, lose many opportunities 
for sales in these things. Inexpensive 
ornaments are usually picked up by 
chance and who is better able to give 
that chance than the man who supplies 
the necessities like thread and shoes 
and dress goods ? 

New design in Peasant lace for making collars which conform to uvumal necklines, such as pointed, oval or square. 
This is a new American pattern just imported by the John M. Garland Son and Co., of Ottawa. 

Dry Goods Review 



Buy Direct from the Maker 

















Made in Canada 



None Better Made 


144 FRONT STREET WEST ••ppmteun.c/w.on TORONTO 



Dry Goods Review 



Our affiliation with Hall, Acme, 
Canada Limited, London, Ont., 
enables us to put before the trade 
our own line — merchandise that 
for material, style, finish and val- 
ue, cannot be surpassed. Further, 
it assures our customers of prompt 
deliveries and an efficient sorting 

Staple and Fancy Lines 
are now in Stock. 

Acme Glove Works 



Drv Goods Review > « AC CESSORIES 87 


Made in England. 

Lisle Thread 

For fit and finish there is no 
popular-priced line to 
equal these gloves for 
ladies and children. 

We are now taking orders 

Spring Delivery 

Acme Glove Works 



Sole Selling Agents for Canada 



Dry Goods Review 

Three Designs Featured for Spring 

The Regulation Elastic-topped Corset, Another Design for Slight 

Figures, And New Models for Heavy Figures — A Number of 

Variations Offered — New Surgical Corsets — Some Changes Made 

In Brassieres— Manufacturers Are Busy. 

THE Province of Quebec is becom- 
ing justly famed for its many 
ranges of fine corsetry which are 
now accepted by the trade as fully equal 
if not superior to corresponding styles 
put out in the United States. Spring 
samples for 1922 are now ready and are 
being shown to the trade, among which 
are quite a few decided novelties. 

The watchword continues to be "the 
uncorseted effect" but as one le.ading de- 
signer pointed out to Dry Goods Review, 
not more than one woman out of ten in 
Canada actually discarded corsets even 
during the hot weather last summer. 
Practically all who did give up boned 
corsets adopted the corselette style, of 
garment for the sake of the hose su 
porlers and the brassiere effect. At 
any rate, he concluded by emphasizing 
the fact that business has been greater 
than ever with his firm. This point is 
corroborated by corset makers in Quebec, 
Montreal and St. Hyacin'he, all of 
whom are now working at full ca" 
and turning out new models in greater 
number than formerly. 

Three General Styles 

"We are making few changes in our 
styles this Spring," said one of these 
manufacturers, "'and I believe the same 
is true of our competitors. We shall 
continue to work on lines which con- 
form to the natural lines of the body in 
our different models. Generally speak- 
ing I consider that there are three out- 
standing models for next Spring which 
represent distinct types, each giving the 
desired s'raight lines. First, there is 
the regulation elastic-topped corset in 
either front or back laced effect, shown 
in figured brocade, or plain fabric in 
fairly long length skirt effect. This 
corset features a comfortably low bust 
and comes in either flesh or white. 

"Another leader is designed for very 
slight figures, which is a dainty girdle 
model developed in rich silk brocade 
edged with imported silk lace. The fea- 
ture of this new model is the fact that 
it closes at the left side by snap fasten- 
ers set underneath self covered buttons 
and has the usual 1 back lacing. Across the 
front of the corset, there is inset a wide 
panel of rubber webbing which prevents 
any uncomfortable 'digging in' of the 
boning, which is thus entirely eliminat- 
ed. The garters are covered in heavy 
corded ribbon which is shirred on and 
finished with tiny bows. This^ model is 
an exact copy of a Paris model import- 
ed lately, and will probably rank as the 
most beautiful style ever created in 
Canada. It can be retailed for about 
$7 a model, which is about half the 
price of a similar design made in an- 
other country. 

"Then we are also showing new mo- 
dels fcr the heavy figure as well," con- 
tinued this authority. "In these styles 
we are offering several variations among 

The side closing is a new feature in cor- 
sets, especially tvhen snap fasteners are 
used. This model was developed in white 
silk brocade with a wide front Insert of 
webbing which prevents any discom- 
fort. Silk torchon lace edges this model 
and the suspenders are shirred with col- 
ored ribbon — Designed and Fhown by 
the E. T. Corset Company, St. Hyac- 
inthe, Que. 

which a reducing model is proving popu- 
lar with the trade. It is full at the 
bust and is cut higher above the waist 
than the ordinary styles for Spring. This 
model is skilfully cut so as to ensure 
support and great strength against 
strain, and in addition to being equipped 
with 6 reinforced hose supporters is 
finished with a wide abdominal belt of 
surgical elastic about 3 inches wide 
which hooks easily in front without any 
difficulty and which gives a flat effect 
very desirable for present styles." 

Novelty Girdles 

In addition to these three leading mo- 
dels there are many other striking vari- 
ations offered, differing here and there 
from those described above. A girdle 
of flesh brocade, for example, was 
shown which featured two inserts of 
webbing 'at either side of the front. 
This model was scarcely boned at all 
and was lightness personified. Another 
girdle, also of pink brocade, had its 
sides and hip portions made of wide 
webbing. The brocade was employed 
only at the back and front to ensure 
flatness and better form. This model 
laced in the back. Another front lace 
model of flesh colored fibre silk brocade 
featured three spiral bonings at each 
side. Triangular sections of heavy 
webbing were inserted on either side to 
give the necessary stretch for bending 
over. This corset is finished with 6 
hose supporters, and while it may be 
worn by a slender type it is ideal for the 
more mature figure since the spiral bon- 
ing, the elastic and the extra hose sup- 
porters are decidedly good features. 
The use of fibre brocade is growing in 
popularity with Canadian women, since 
it ensures a showy and luxurious finish 
with no extra expense. Many women 
are unwilling to pay for a satin corset 
because it is difficult to launder proper- 
ly, but with the art or fibre silk variety, 
f v equent tubbings can be administered 
with no detriment to the garment. 

Surgical Corsets 

The trade will be interested to hear 
that it is now possible to obtain a ma- 
ternity corset of very superior design 
and quality, made by a leading Quebec 
firm who have spent much time in per- 
fecting their models. These are advis- 
able in all cases of surgical operations 
and are equipped with an underneath 
adjustable band. 

The use of elastic webbing is growing 
in demand according to one corset manu- 
facturer, while another is of the opinion 
that ordinary models without elastic in- 
serts are wanted. In the case of front 
lace corsets it is now the rule rather 
(Continued on page 89) 

Dry Goods Review 



Increasing Sales in Notions Dept. 

Manageress of Notions Department Outlines Rules Enforced That 
Make For Bigger Sales and Better Salespersons— Difference Be- 
tween "Waiter" and Salesperson — Customers Come Into Store by 
Invitation and Should So Be Treated 

A TORONTO retailer declares that 
the day of white muslin and cotton 
underwear for everyday use, is 
over. The whitewear sales of this year 
have proved this to some extent. Even 
older women like to wear silk under- 
things. As a matter of fact they are 
more economical than the cotton. Silk 
underwear may be worn without ironing- 
Moreover selections of very plain pat- 
terns may be made in these without giv- 
ing too much severity to an outfit. One 
manufacturer says he sells two dozen 
hemstitched garments to every dozen 
of the lace-trimmed. Cotton underwear 
on the other hand must have some trim- 
ming or it is decidedly unattractive. Yet 
this very trimming shortens the life of 
the cotton garment which is very durable 
in itself. A salesgirl who has catered to 
women's requirements in underwear, for 
many years in a store in Toronto, says 
that even the old ladies nowadays like 
the silk and give as their excuse that it 
is softer. Of course the dye question 
plays a prominent part in the promotion 
of the sale of silk. The dyes on the mar- 
ket now will renew the life of silk many 
times, while they do not behave nearly so 
well with cotton materials. 

Novelties Sell Underwear 

There are few departments of women's 
wear which depend on display as much 
as the silk lingerie department. The 
manager of the undergarment branch of 
a Toronto house, informed Dry Goods Re- 
view that a display case for novelties 
was almost necessary in a store which 
sells any quantities. At the time, he had 
on display a smoking set, which was little 
different from a two piece pyjama out- 
fit. Not ten women in Toronto he be- 
lieved would buy this smoking set in a 
month, yet it attracted the necessary 
attention to his department. Women like 
to be shocked and many a woman active 
in the Women's Christian Temperance 
Association, would stop to view open- 
mouthed, another evidence of the un- 
Christianlike tendencies of to-day and 
then turn to the purchase of a white 
muslin nightgown with high neck and 
long sleeves. He makes it a point' to find 
a novelty at least every ten days for a 
special case which is placed just at the 
head of a main staircase and near the 
rest room. 

What Are They Wearing? 

To the question, "which is the latest 
color in silk lingerie?" all the manufac- 
turers are answering "black." Canadian 
women, however, are too conservative for 
black to take a very strong hold this sum- 
mer, they declare, so they are making it 
up in high-priced novelty garments and 

the big stores are featuring these. The 
colors that are really being worn are 
orchid, jade green, taupe and lemon. For 
the first time in many years, pink has 
to work for its laurels, although it can 
by no means be said to have disappear- 

Colored pongee is getting stronger as 
the Spring approaches. This is not only 


(Continued from page 88) 
than the exception to find the models 
equipped with a front shield to protect 
the laces from scoring the flesh when 
tied. These shields are sewn right to 
the corset and no longer attached by 
means of snaps. 

Speaking of the enormous vogue for 
girdle corsets, even by quite stout wo- 
men, this manufacturer pointed out that 
the coming spring and summer are ex- 
pected to be great sports seasons and it 
is felt that the girdle is especia'ly 
adapted to accompany the new knicker 
suits or regulation sports attire. Then 
again it was stated that the demand for 
light corsets from women who hitherto 
have worn no corsets at all, or else have 
been wearing models which are too hea- 
vy for comfort, is steadily increasing, 
and both these classes prefer the girdle 
because it is light during warm weather 
yet is now designed to give real support. 

Brassieres Show Changes 
Brassieres are also showing certain 
modifications this Spring designed to 
still further accentuate the flat front 
effect so essential to the proper appear- 
ance of sports clothes. Realization of 
the tremendous market potentialities of 
a brassiere designed to appeal to the 
slender figure is another factor which is 
stimulating business unexpectedly. The 
bandeau is practically supreme as re- 
gards style and an interesting number 
introduced by a Quebec firm features an 
elastic waist line which is made to fit 
over the new topless corsets. This 
number is attractively developed in bro- 
cades and satin, in some cases lace- 
trimmed. Another new bandeau re- 
sembles a modified corset brassiere and 
has an extra section fitting over the 
diaphragm and well down over the hips. 
It is not boned or inset with webbing 
but it is finished with suspenders and an 
adjustable shoulder strap, the latter a 
very practical feature. This can be 
worn without a corset and is recom- 
mended for sports, negligee or bathing 

That business in corsets and 1 bras- 
sieres will be extremely good this spring 
is the unanimous opinion of several 

seen in the natural shades but in almost 
all the high colors. The pongee lines are, 
for the most part, tailored, as they seem 
to take the place of the cotton garment 
for everyday use, while the wash silk 
and crepe de chine is more elaborate. 

Philippine and French Lingerie 

It is a strange thing that while both of 
these lines have always a steady mar- 
ket, the public will not pay as high a 
price a s they do for the best silk gar- 
ments. The average customer wants to 
buy them from the merchant for $2.50 
or at the most $5.00. 

As to petticoats, one manufacturer 
says that the combination camisole- 
petticoat, or as it used to be called, the 
Princess slip, will be stronger than the 
single petticoat. This will be a pleasant 
thing for both manufacturer and retail- 
er as it demands a higher price than the 
one piece garment does. 

Built-up Shoulder in Everything 
The surplice shoulder or as the under- 
wear manufacturers call it, the built-up 
shoulder in camisoles, has proven itself 
so well with the trade, that manufactur- 
ers are trying it in everything — chenises, 
nightdresses, pyjamas and princess slips. 
The vogue for "boat-shaped" necks in 
dresses, is no doubt mostly responsible 
for this. The strap always showed be- 
cause it came too far in from the should- 
er. This was of course, necessary, in or- 
der to hold up the garment. With the 
surplice shoulder, however, the upper 
part, coming as it does from the middle 
of the garment and reaching to the very 
point of the shoulder there is a fair 
amount of security and at the same time 
everything is hidden. 

Pyjamas are selling even beyond ex- 
pectations of last month. The demand 
is for the trouser cuffs especially in the 
black and bright shades. 
Elastic Girdles Stronger This Summer 
Corset makers are looking for a de- 
mand for girdles this year far beyond 
that of last season. It was mostly Ameri- 
can tourists who bought them then and 
Canadian women did not show any lean- 
ing toward them until rather late in 
August. Propaganda in the United States 
by leading manufacturers may have stop- 
ped the spread of the girdle there for 
this year, but as there has been little 
talk against them on this side, it is be- 
lieved they will go in Canada. 

Measuring the Uncorseted Figure 

A woman who has made a study of 

corset fitting for many years, says that 

clerks will never attain any degree of 

perfection in fitting, unless they measure 

(Continued on page 108) 

90 CORSETS AND LINGERIE • Dry Goods Review 

"The Diamond Gore" 

A Warner patent, brought out 
this season, and found only in 



For many years the problem in long skirted corsets has been 
to keep them snug around the lower hips. Elastic has been 
used extensively, but up until a few months ago, when the 
Warner designers worked out a method of cutting and shap- 
ing the elastic inserts to perfectly hug the figure at all times 
and in all positions, the secret had not been found. 

This feature, "The Diamond Gore," is being shown this 
season in both our Canadian and United States lines, and has 
met with instant popularity. 

It is used in back-lace, front-lace, and elastic girdles in our 
Canadian made line as follows: — 

Style 364, Pink Coutil, Back lace, sizes 20-28, $24 doz. 
0985, Pink Brocade, Back lace, sizes 20-28, $42 doz. 
547, Pink Coutil, Front lace, sizes 22-30, $36 doz. 
E-932, Elastic Girdle, Pink, sizes 22-30, $36 doz. 

The Warner Brothers Company 

356 St. Antoine St. Montreal, P.Q. 

Dry Goods Review 



* 1 5^^feJ^^^^<t--^^ , %_-^^t^^^ ' tl jfS 

A glance at this picture will show you why merchants collectively are so enthusiastic about 




It is an established fact that whenever you find a store or specialty shop building a corset 
business of the lasting kind, you are likely to find Gossards the featured corset of the 

The majority of corset buyers consider these original front lacing corsets the backbone of 
their business because of the frequent turnovers they are able to accomplish with them. 
This is due to the universal demand that exists for Gossard Corsets and the complete satisfaction 
that goes with every sale. 

The Canadian f-f.W (n lossard (p. umra 

366-37i West Adelaide St., Toronto, Canada 



Dry Goods Review 

Boosting Spring Business 

np HE RE'S every promise that this 
Spring's sales will show a decided 
improvement over those of past 
months, but you can't do a big business 
unless you've got the goods. 

There are two things about P. C. Cor- 
sets that will recommend them to your 
customers, — they fit the form and 
they fit the pocketbook. 

Women haven't got out of the habit of 
looking for value in the goods they buy 
and they are realizing more and more 
that in P. C. Corsets they do get value. 

This factor combined with the abso- 
lute wearing satisfaction which P.C.'s 
afford should make them one of the 
biggest sales builders in your store. 

Mail your orders to 

Montreal, Quebec 



Parisian Corset 
Mfg. Co., Limited 


Montreal Toronto 

Style No. 970 




Bankrupt Stocks 


Standard Factories of Canada 


Exclusive Ladies Wear Ltd. 

held by 

The Merchants Bank 
of Canada 

have been turned over to us for disposal. 
These stocks consist of: 













We are unable to send samples or accspt any mail 

order. It will be to your advantage to come to 

Montreal and inspect these stocks. 

Merchants Liquidators 




Are the newest creations of the 
season at prices that mean im- 
mediate business for the buyer. 
We are particularly attentive to 
quality and workmanship. 

We can suit you with furs for 
every season of the year. 

Visit us or send us your inquiries. 

Our representative will call — See Samples 

It will pay you. 


59-61 Wellington St. W. 



Canadian Made" 

The higher grades of 
snow-white Cotton Bat- 
ting are being demanded 
by retail customers 


Small Size Batts. 


Comforter Size Batts 
are superior to the finest 
imported Batts and the 
price to the merchant is 
especially attractive in 

Your wholesaler will supply 

you with these lines, also 

the following 




K. P. 

Small Sty'e 

Style Batting 






Dry Goods Review 

Canadian Women Will Still Wear Soft Furs; 

f^ Lamb for Older Women, Soft Furs for Younger 

Adapt Themselves Very Readily to Styles Desired by Canadian 
Women — Toronto Designer Believes Dolman Type has Limita- 
tions in Canada — Increasing Demand for Muskrat and Coon — 
Some Furriers Say Cheap Prices Are Not Good Custom-getters. 

A DESIGNER for a Toronto fur 
manufacturer says, that while 
lamb will without doubt replace 
seal for the nv'ddle-aged and older 
woman's coat next winter, it will not be 
worn by the "flapper," who, after all, is 
the leading lady nowadays in the world 
of fashion. He believes that lamb will be 
considered too severe for the younger 
set, particularly as it is not as well 
suited to the extreme styles which many 
women demand. The sale of 'amb, he ad- 
mits, will eclipse any one of the other 
furs in this country at any rate. Amer- 
ican women, particularly those of New 
York, Chicago and the other large cities, 
are more inclined to favor the wrap than 
Canadian women are, and for that rea- 
son will buy the soft furs again next 

He explains the fact that while the 
wrap style has been in vogue on the other 
side for more than two seasons, almost 
to the exclusion of the coat, without be- 
ing adopted here, in the following way: 
the fur garment, whether it be wrap or 
coat, is worn by the wealthy women who 
frequent Fifth Ave. and Michigan 
Plvd , and not by the middle c^ss which 
wears them here. There is, therefore, not 
as much reason that fur garments be 
nractical in those cities as there is in 
Canada. Th ; s seems a very reasonable 
explanation. Outside of those seen on the 
fashionable thoroughfares, not many 
women wear all-fur garments in New 
York. It would be almost safe to say that 

four girls in Toronto, who are earning 
ordinary salaries, wear fur coats for 
every one in New York. Dry Goods Re- 
view made the same observation while 
on a recent visit to Detroit. This is the 
reason also, why the seal imitations so 
very common in the United States were 
not so noticeable here. Over there one can 
either afford an extravagant f arment or 
a very cheap one; in Canada, few of us 
are very wealthy and poverty is less 
common also, because the average woman 
can live fairly comfortably on the salary 
she earns. 

This designer is of the opinion that 
the dolman type will never become real- 
ly popular here. Our Anglo-Saxon an- 
cestors have given us a desire for utility 
and service in everything we prize, which 
finds expression in the things we wear. 

Coon and Muskrat Better Than Ever 
Muskrat has by no means reached the 
zenith of its popularity, Dry Goods Re- 
view was told. For the younger girls it 
will be better than ever next year, be- 
cause of the high price of seal and the 
fact that lamb will not be used as a sub- 
stitute altogether for seal. 

Coon is the coming fur for coats that 
are higher-priced than muskrat. The 
blends and the matching of the coo l to- 
day are far superior to that which was 
on the market a year ago and there is no 
longer the complaint made that it is cum- 
bersome. Designers are taking particu- 
lar care that coon be cut as carefully as 

lamb or seal and the results are worth 

Mink will be used again in coats. There 
has been a general advance of ten per 
cent, in the price of this fur but furriers 
believe that there will be many women 
in the next few years buying it because 
they are tired of the cheaper ones and 
the other better grade skins such as mole 
and squirrel are unserviceable. There is 
an increase in the call for some of the 
expensive furs for trimming. Ermine is 
being used and so is Russian sable. 

High Prices Attract m Furs 

Whatever the feeling is among retail 
ers in general as to the popular price fot 
their merchandise, furriers agree tha 1 
women who buy their line, particularly 
those who want good ones are often de- 
terred from buying by substantial reduc- 
tions. During the usual clearance sales 
of January and February, price is prob- 
ably the big feature but for all the year 
round business, many merchants declare 
that women are not attracted by bar- 
gains. One furrier told of a woman who 
refused to buy two Russian sable skins 
from him for $1,100 and purchased two 
others from another store for $1,500. The 
first two skins were, if anything, a little 
better than the ones she bought because 
this merchant had examined the four 
very carefully at the wholesale house 
from which they came, but his low valu- 
ation had hurt them in her estimation. 
(Continued on page 109) 

To provide a fitting background in honor of the liand-.cme silver trophu shown in the foreground of the above 
picture, the Freiman Company of Ottctica. staged this nalistic snow storm. The cup was awarded to the Freiman 
-Snow Shoe Club for making the best showing on na'adc.The central figure is wearing the Snoiv Shoe Club uni- 
form of blue and while. Windoiv dressed by Mr. Griest, Display Manager. 

Dry Goods Review 



Quebec Trappers for Quarter Century 

Have Sold Furs to Lanoix Co. St. Hyacinthe 

Fur Specialists and Large Retailers of Headwear — Sold 10,000 
Straw Hats During 1921 — Use the Movies as Medium of Ad- 
vertising — Very Careful Selection of Furs — The Home of Many 


THE habitant trappers of Quebec 
who depend to a great extent up- 
on the money they receive for 
their furs, have for the past quarter of 
a century brought the best of thei^- 
pelts to a certain small store located 
in St. Hyacinthe which is about an 
hour's train journey from Montreal. 
This store, which is Known by the name 
of Lanoix Company Ltd., is familiar 
to both the trapper and the wearer of 
furs as one of the best places to obtain 
fair and generous treatment, and as a 
consequence, it is not surprising to hear 
that practically every fur coat, every 
scarf or neckpiece worn by men or wo- 
men some twenty miles around comes 
from this 'store. "We are known for 
just two things," remarked the proprie- 
tor of this successful business tD Dry 
Goods Review. "First of all we are fur 
specialists and we also lay claim to be 
the largest retailers of headwear for 

men and children in this part of the 
country. We find that these two 
branches of business work in together 
splendidly both summer and winter, so 
that there is never a slack season with 
us at any time." 

"Value Plus" in Service 
The present owner of the store, J. B. 
Durocher, took over the business seve:*al 
years ago with the intention of carrying 
only these two lines. "After analysing 
carefully the purchasing power in this 
locality I realized that we must under- 
sell the big city stores 'and also provide 
equally good service. The business is 
therefore conducted along the policy of 
'value plus' which means that we are not 
content with merely selling one hund- 
red cents worth of goods for a dollar; 
we make sure that the custcmer's goo;! 
will is ours for all time, and also, what- 
ever she wants she shall have." 

This sounds like a big contract to 
carry out, especially when it is remem- 
bered that the store is comparatively 
small in size. The front part is practically 
all devoted to the display of fine felt 
hats for men, together with caps and 
children's headwear. This is, however, a 
minor display during the winter months 
as furs play the important role, but in 
summer the store blossoms out into a 
veritable garden of straw hats for men 
and last year all records were broken 
when the sales of these hats surpassed 
the ten thousand mark. This figure, 
by the way, was the equivalent of all 
the other hat sales in the town put to- 
gether, and proved that where hats 
were concerned also the townspeople of 
St. Hyacinthe prefer to purchase at 
one store only. 

To touch on the selling methods of 
the Lanoix store, it might be mentioned 
(Continued on page 109) 

Interior of the Lanoix Regd. store of St. Hyacinthe, Que., showing how the stock is displayed openly for the con- 
venience of purchasers. This small store does an enormous business in furs and men's hats, all business being 

iiansacted in the space here shown. 



Dry Goods Review 

Important Facts About Perfumes 

Knowledge The Only Road to Effective Salesmanship — How the 

Sale of Perfumes and Toilet Accessories is Increasing — The Cost 

of Oils — Difference Between Toilet Water and Florida Water — 

Some Helpful Hints For Salespeople 

THE manager of a large firm in 
Canada engaged in making toilet 
accessories, informs Dry Goods 
Review that his sales in perfumes and 
toilet waters, have increased from $8,000 
in 1913 to $500,000 last year. This 
gives some idea of the amount used by 
Canadian women to-day. It shows as 
well, the field which merchants have in 
this class of merchandise. There is 
every reason to believe that dry goods 
stores and department stores are not 
the least to have profited by this de- 
mand of recent years. Outside of the 
toilet goods sold by druggists, dry 
goods merchants are the only cnes 
handling them to any extent. Though 
this increase is so marked during the 
last eight years because in the first 
place, makers and retailers are push- 
ing this class of merchandise and in the 
second place, the better grades are the 
only ones that women will buy. 

A man who has carried these lines for 
several years and increased his turn- 
over by one half every year since he 
went into business, says that he be- 
lieves that a fair amount of technical 
knowledge is very necessary on the part 
of the saleswoman behind the toilet 
counter. Customers like to ask about 
perfumes^, powders and creams, because 
there is so much mystery connected with 
them and because women are always 
ready to hear of things which will en- 
hance their appearance. 

Cheap Perfumes and Good Ones 

There are many clerks who have very 
little idea of the difference between per- 
fumes. This is easily understood since 
few have the opportunity of seeing how 
they are made. A representative from 
Dry Goods Review made a visit the 
other day to a manufacturer of toilet 
accessories. He asked for information 
in regard to several* lines, which he 
considered would be of value to sales- 
people who do not pretend to be drug- 
gists but are cnly attempting to help 
increase the sales of toilet goods in their 


Lustre Beads 

Bugle Beads Wood Beads 

Pearl Beads 

Latest Novelties in 

Bead Necklaces And 


Send your requirements to us 

Prices Right 



77 York Street, Toronto, Ont. 

stores by knowing some important facts 
in regard to them. 

What constitutes the real difference 
between perfumes which retail for 50 
cents an ounce and those which sell fcr 
three dollars? was one of the questions 
asked. There are two things respon- 
sible. These are the quality of the 
flower oils used and the degree of pop- 
ularity which an odor attains. The first 
reason seems to the casual observer by 
far the more important but every manu- 
facturer knows that sometimes the most 
expensive odors will not command a 
good price because they do not meet with 
favor. Moreover, perfumes come and 
go just like every other thing. Odors 
which sold strongly two years ago are 
very often not heard of to-day. 

Of course the flower oils are the 
standard by which the original price is 
determined As the alcohol used is net 
very different in different perfumes and 
as alcohol constitutes 90 per cent of the 
quantity of perfume made, it can be 
readily seen how important that little 
10 per cent, of oil is. The cost of gath- 
ering natural flowers varies .consider- 
ably. For example, two tens of violets 
are; needed to make one pound of oil. 
Then the refining process is very ex- 
pensive. Some of the very cheap oils 
undergo only one process while the best 
grades are passed through five or six 

Artificial Oils Dear as Natural Ones 

Many people are under the impres- 
sion that the better grades of perfumes 
contain the natural essence and that ar- 
tificial oil is used altogether in cheap 
perfumes. This is not always the case. 
While the natural oils may be just as 
dear and foir that reason, are sometimes 
found in the very best perfumes, the 
process of refining is mostly responsible 
for the^ final cost of the artificial oil. 

While popularity has a great influ- 
ence on the price of a perfume, manu- 
facturers have found that only those 
grades made from the best materials, 
whether they be natural or artificial, are 
liked. Some idea may be obtained of 
the cost of oils, when one considers that 
containers holding 1 one pound of the 
better oils are valued by the manufact- 
urer at $350. One room measuring 
about twelve feet by seven, contained, 
Dry Goods Review was informed, $60,- 
000 worth of oils. These were both 
natural and artificial. 

Natural oils are obtained from flowers, 
fruits and animals, scattered all over 
the world. Our informant says that 
Greenland is the only country he knows 
of, which does not produce something of 
value to the perfumer. The average 

perfume contains from twenty to twenty- 
five, different odors. There are three in- 
gredients which are common to all ex- 
cept probably some of the very lowest 
grades. These are musk, civet and 
ambergris. Chemists declare that one 
grain of musk will not lose its odor in 
a hundred years. Moreover it gives 
that sticking quality which is needed in 
perfume. In the days of early Greece 
and Rome, musk played an important 
part in the making of precious oils and 
perfumes and modern science has been 
able to find nothing which will take its 
place. Musk is obtained from the plant 
of that name which grows in northern 

Civet is taken from the civet cat of 
South America and ambergris comes 
from the oil glands of the whale cap- 
tured off the coast of Iceland and North- 
ern Norway. 

Flower oils are distilled in Grasse, 
France. They are then shipped to the 
manufacturer who removes two unneces- 
sary ingredients. These are wax, which 
is useless because it is odorless and resin 
which stains and is greasy. Wax is 
removed by freezing; some manufact- 
urers nowadays use lime in freezing the 

Many of the fruits used in making 
perfumes come from Italy. These are 
distilled in Messina. 

Toilet Water and Florida Water 

What are the chief differences be- 
tween perfume, toilet water and Florida 
water? Toilet water is perfume with 
a small percentage of alcohol and a 
large proportion of water. Florida 
water is a special toilet water containing 
eight or nine essential oils. The pro- 
portion of alcohol and water is about 
the same in toilet water as in Florida 
water. The fact that these are diluted 
of course, makes them much weaker than 
perfume but the small percentage of al- 
cohol used is also responsible for the 
weaker odor. 

Travellers Now Out with 
Complete Lines 

French Ivory. 

Greeting: Cards and Post Cards for all 

Purses and Wallets. 

Pennants, Cushions and Textile Nov- 

Supplies for Celebrations, Old Boys' 
Reunions, etc. 

Souvenir Novelties (a tremendous 

Christmas Stockings. 

Conservo Lunch Sets, Splashers, Table 
Sets, Infants' Bibs and Sets. 
The product of five factories we own 
or control \ 

Pugh Specialty Co., Ltd. 

38 to 42 Clifford St., Toronto, Canada 

Dm Goods Review 



All Aboard Across Canada 

Canadian toymakers closed their ex- 
hibition of "Made in Canada" toys on 
February 15. This marks the first at- 
tempt by manufacturers in this country 
in the way of a joint effort to show the 
retail trade and the public what has 
been accomplished. It shows as well, the 
extent to Which Canada has grown away 
from dependence on German, Japanese 
and American sources for her toys. 
There were nearly twenty firms repre- 
sented in the exhibition, which occupied 
the whole ground floor of the Queen's 
Hotel, Toronto. 

There was shown every manner of 
toys and like novelties which might be 
classed as fancy goods and china. Glass- 
ware, pottery, lamps and silverware 
were displayed. Buyers from all over 
this country and from the United States 
and Great! Britain, expressed their sur- 
prise at the quality and variety of the 
goods manufactured in Canada. One 
retailer from Moncton, N. B., said that 
he had had no idea of the extent! to 
which manufacturers were making these 
lines. When salesmen came to him in- 
dividually, he had never been able to 
form a complete opinion as to Canadian 
toys and fancy goods but displayed as 
they were at this exhibiiiion, to the very 
best advantage and at one time, he dis- 
covered exactly where certain lines he 
wants, are to be obtained. 

In games especially there are several 
points worthy of note. When children 
in this country were dependent on for- 
eign games, they found little which cor- 
responded to their everyday amuse- 
ments. Now that Canadian designers 
are working on these, games which 
every fullblooded boy and girl likes in 
the outdoors are being made in minia- 
ture. For example baseball. One de 
signer has a baseball game which is 
even being taken up by veterans of the 
professional league. 

Canadian dolls are becoming better 
looking every day; and they are just as 
clever as any French, German or Amer- 
ican dolls. One firm displayed a doll 
which walked as well as a three year 
old child if held by the hand. There 
were several talking and crying dolls 
too, which were the peers of any im- 
ported ones. 

Vetcraft Work of Special Merit 

The display by this firm whose work- 
ers are veterans of the Great War, de- 
serves special mention. The copper and 
brasswork were remarkably well done 
and the variety offered bo ih in price 
and articles were suited to the needs of 
every type of store dealing in fancy 

Another firm is making a child's tray 
which attracted the attention of visit- 
ors. It has- a little trough which pre- 
vents tlhe spoiling of the tablecloth if 
something is spilt on the tray and it 
fastens to the edge of the table. 

A firm in London, Ont., is specializ- 
ing in Wedgewood china in the Mikado 
pat/tern and in the original rich blue 

wi.h which this china was associated 
before so many imitations came on the 
market. Several other lines of porce- 
lain and china in beautiful- colors were 
exhibited by the same company. 

The boudoir lamps shown by one ex- 
hibitor deserve special mention. They 
are about eighteen inches high and have 
a parasol held open above the figure. 

Building For The Future 

While several manufacturers express- 
ed disappointment in the number of r0 
tailers who visited them, they were 
agreed that this was ;he only real meth- 
od of educating Carfadians to look here 
before asking for foreign goods. That 
the public appreciated the opportunity, 
was evident from the number of visit- 
ors on the nights the exhibition was 
ihrown open to them. 

Not this year or probably next year, 
will ihe effect be felt but as one manu- 
facturer expressed it, "in ten years this 
exhibi.ion will pay for tlhe cost and 
trouble, a hundred fold." There wasi 
not one exhibitor to whom Dry Goods 
Review was speaking, who did not in- 
tend to exhibit next year. In fact it 
is believed thatt the number of those 
coming into the show in 1923 will be 

Cire Ribbons In Paris 

Straw Embroidery as Trimming — 

Conditions Regaining Normal 

"Paris is sponsoring cire ribbons of 

all colors and widths," declared Mr. 

Zabler of Muser Brothers of Montreal 

to Dry Goods Review this month, on his 

return from an extended trip to Europe 
which included v.s.ts to London, Paris, 
Brussels and St. Gall. 

The vogue for fancy ribbons of all 
sorts was an outstanding fe.uaie, ac- 
cording to Mr. Zabler, whb commented 
upon the fact that picot edged ribbons 
and wide moire effects are selling as 
well as ever. The demand for millinery 
ribbons seems inexhaustible, and in this 
connection, the novelty cire effects are 
exceedingly beautiful. 

Laces are still another feminine ac- 
cessory which is enjoying a wide vogue 
on the other side, he said. Practically 
every smart Parisienne was wearing 
black radium lace or one of the numer- 
ous cire laces in some form or other. 
Beaded effects were also very good in 
Paris and it is thought that ihese will 
continue in popularity another y< - 

One of the newest trimming effects, 
observed Mr. Zabler, which seem to be 
used in a bewildering variety of forms 
was that of straw embroidery. This 
was employed with good effect upon 
millinery, frocks, etc., in bright colors, 
and seemed capable of infinite variety 
in treatment. 

Every smart woman wears silk hos- 
iery in Europe, according to Mr. Zabler,. 
who commented on the fact that woollen 
hose are. not nearly so often seen there 
as on this side. Heavy ribbed silk hose 
are popular although somewhat costly 
and are now coming into this country. 
The present fad in footwear calls for 
very elaborate slippers, many of which 
have jewelled heels, studded wi h bril- 
liants or other precious stones. Color- 
ed leather heels are another pretty 
(Continued on page 102) 

These handkerchiefs represent some of a new collection which should please 
the trade. 
Top Row — 1. White with pattern along four sides of border, in three colors. 

2. Periwinkle hkie with Nottingham lace edge. 

3. White with point lace edge and insert of filet. 

4. Spring beauty shade with Nottingham lace edae- 
Bottom Row — 5. Mauve with hand-crocheted floral design in while. 

6. White with colored flowers and hand-drawn work. 
7. Orange with blue basket design and blue thread running 

8. White with rose motif hemstitched on corner. 



Dry Goods Review 



Every child expects to receive an Easter Toy or basket of candy. 
Do not be without this popular and profitable line. 
We have a very complete assortment of Easter Novelties ready for 
early shipment. 

Our illustrated Spring circular 
contains: — 

Easter Chickens, Rabbits 

Candy Boxes, Baskets 

Artificial Flowers 

Marbles and Allies 

Skipping Ropes 


146-148 Front St. W. 
(Opposite Union Depot) 


Dry Goods Review 



Buy the "Julian Sale" Line 

For Fine Goods 

Big Assortments 

Attractive Values 

Bags & Purses 

And other lines of Leather Goods and Novelties 

Note the dollar bill 
pocket on the flap. 

The Newest in Swagger Bags 

Useful, practical, novel, dressy. A very unusual line in 
shapes, styles, colors. The leathers include octopus, frog, 
Monte Carlo and grained leathers in blue, brown, grey and 
black. See this line. 

Monte Carlo Bags 

An attractive novelty — 
the newest. Octopus, Al- 
ligator and Spicier Web 

Beautiful Silk Bags 

Handsome Effects — in new 
shapes and patterns; Black, 
Brown, Blue, and Taupe. 
No tassels. 

See our Travellers, or write, phone or wire. 

The Julian Sale Leather Goods Company, Limited 

600 King Street, West, Toronto 



Dry Goods Review 

Neckwear Wants of the Moment 

Bramley Sets 

Many new innovations in colored linens and 
colored organdies. 


In net and effective colorings of organdy. 


Specially adapted for the Spring suit in net 
and organdy.> 

Dress Sets 

To relieve the scmbreness of Spring colors, 
in wide variety of color and style. 

See our Salesman or Write for Assortment 

Phoenix Novelry Company 

New Address 
22 Duncan Street at Adelaide TORONTO 



2 Cours des Chartreux, Lyons 


Manufacturers of 


For Men, Women and Children 

CHAMOISETTE— for Ladies and Men only, 
in all sizes. The reinforced finger-tips 
are an added sales attraction. 

SILK — made in all sizes and also with re- 
inforced finger-tips. The quality of 
these gloves, the workmanship and the 
finish, are all that could be desired. 

LISLE THREAD— for Children, in all sizes. 
Durable and well able to stand the 
wear and tear to which children's gloves 
are subject. 

Sole Agents for Canada : 


45 St. Alexander Street 




Canada's Oldest and Orig- 
inal Trimming House 

Cords, Fringes, Girdles, Fancy Braids, 
Tassels, Ornaments and Yard Trim- 
mings in Wool, Tinsel and Silk Effects. 

Our Policy has always been "Honest 
Goods at Honest Prices." We intend to 
continue this Policy. 

There is a special finish about the 
Moulton Line of Trimmings that gives 

The Moulton 

4 Inspector St., Montreal 

Dry Goods Review 





Buyers come to us for the latest fan- 
cies as well as for regular staples. 
They know we can cater to every de- 
mand with our wide range of these 
important accessories. 

Let us help you round out your stock. 

Button Sales Limited 

66 Wellington St. W. Toronto 

Manufacturers and Importers of 
Ivory, Pearl, Celluloid and Composition Buttons 

CfjattHon, jWoulp,&ous#eU c*e. 

Silk Manufacturers 

Factories at: LYONS, TARARE, 










Newtst Creations 

Canadian Representative: M. AUBIN 
46 St. Alexander St., MONTREAL 


Ladies' Dress 

We have in stock a 
splendid line of Girdles 
at popular prices, and 
in the wanted colors. 

They are in demand now 
and will 'be good all 

We will be pleased to 
send you a sample 
assortment on approval. 

wrinch, McLaren 


120 Wellington Street W., 

Sole Agents for 

Lady Dainty Hair Nets 



Dry Goods Review 

Spring Brings Activity in Notions 

Some Factories Have Work to Keep Them Busy Till August — 
Corset Trimmings Are Becoming Big Factor in Trade — Manu- 
facturer Explains Reason for Few Cotton Novelties in White Wear 
— Revival of Laces Comes With The Spring 

SPRING is the time of the year the 
potions counter gets its deserved 
inning-s in most stores. This season 
will be no exception. A manufacturer 
informed Dry Goods Review the other 
day that he has enough work ahead of 
him to last until August. Moreover 
he says that at no time since the buyers' 
strike began last yeai - , has he had less 
than sixty per cent, of his factory help 
working- a 'l the time. Each season there 
are new developments in things used in 
dressmaking and fancy work. One of 
his best lines is name labels. These are 
of silk and of cotton and go, for the 
most part, to cloak, suit, fur and under- 
wear manufacturers. The wholesale mil- 
linery houses of course order a great 
many, both for themselves and for their 
clients. In this connection, he empha- 
sized the fact that Canadian milliners 
ars using labels much mors than they 
did a year ago. There is no reason why 
milliners in small towns, carrying hats 
which they have made themselves, should 
not use these on every hat they sell. 
They are not expensive and the advertis- 
ing obtained by this simple method ia 
enormous. The wholesale houses and the 
large retail ones, never send out a hat 
without a label in the crown of some 
kind. French exporters are very careful 
about this matter. There is, moreover, 
a certain air of luxury about a hat with 
a label. 

Corset Trimmings Keep Canadian 
Factory Busy 

One factory which our representative 
called upon recently, has been very busy 
making corset trimmings, which include 
lace," embroidery, hemstitching and tape 
strings. The manager declared that 
manufacturers in this country are giv- 
ing him more business every year. In 
fact there are very few corsetmakers in 
this country, who import their trim- 

The same firm makes tapes for men's 
shoes but were it not for the corset 
trimming business, Dry Goods Review 
was told that they would have gone out 
of business long ago. Men's shoes, like 
so many other lines carried by men, have 
been a dead issue so long that the tapes 
sold have been very limited. There are 
very few manufacturers who made 
things for men a year ago, that have 
not added one or more lines for women. 
Notions houses are no exception. 
Cotton Underwear Has Few Novelties 
The representative of a large white 
wear manufacturer, says that to the 
complaint sometimes made that cheap 
whitewear and cotton lines usually fol- 
low the same style too carefully, his 
answer is that makers of these things 

would go out of business in a few months 
if they attempted novelties. All the cot- 
ton materials dropped so considerably 
during the last year, that production on 
a large scale is the only way to get 
profit. This man makes five or six lines 
of women's cotton drawers for ex- 
ample. Before any of these styles 
were attempted it was necessary to get 
the approval of a large retailer or 
wholesaler. Chance orders, such as are 
taken on knitted wear lines or acces- 
sories, would never pay. This factory 
turns out 68 dozen drawers alone of one 

Aprons for nurses, maids and cooks, 
come under the same category. Flan- 
nelette nightgowns, which follow so 
rigidly two or three styles, must also 
be turned out in great quantities. Be- 
cause of the drop in flannelette a few 
weeks ago, from 37 cents to 16 cents, 
there is even more need to speed up pro- 

In most of notions and staple white- 
wear lines, it is price which counts first. 
A woman will debate with a clerk as 
to whether she should pay 5 or 7 cents 
for a yard of elastic and then move to 
the veiling counter, where she will buy 
the most expensive veil on the counter. 

Cannot Make Cheap Pajamas 

Many women ar e inquiring these days 
for pajamas which can be bought as 
cheap as nightdresses. Just now, only 
women who are willing to pay about 
half as much again as they do for the 
ordinary nightgown, can wear pajamas. 
Again, the reason was given that pro- 
duction could never be made to such an 

extent that the profit would be worth 
while. There is nearly three times as 
much work involved in making pajamas 
as there is in nightdresses and in cotton 
material, manufacturers would not at- 
tempt these garments. 


(Continued from page 97) 
fashion used on sandals of patent leath- 
er which are strapped in different novel 
ways. The favored colors in silk hos 
iery are sand and nude, both of which 
form a striking contrast when worn 
with patent slippers. 

Conditions are quickly regaining nor- 
mal insofar as living is concerned in 
Europe. Hotel accommodation is still 
somewhat costly but travel is back to 
pre-war volume. So great is the traffic 
between London and Paris that travel- 
ers are obliged to secure seats in the 
1st class compartments at least two 
days before setting forth; otherwise they 
must stand throughout the entire jour- 
nev. This was a sate of affairs never 
before experienced by visitors from th's 
side before the war. 

The Swiss franc being so unusually 
. valuable, it has been difficult to secure 
products which can be sold on this side 
at the usual price, nevertheless, large 
shipments of embroidered voiles and or- 
gandies are expected to arrive soon 
which will be exceptionally good values. 
Embroidered organdies in the Swiss 
permanent finish are considered newer 
and more unusual for summer wear 
than the staple plain effects, in Mr. 
Zabler's opinion. 

Here arc a few of the newest buttons in solid celluloid and carved ivory, 
which have been designed for the spring cloak and suit trade.— From the 
Button Sales Limited, Toronto. 

Dry Goods Review' 



Plan to Meet Big Competition 

Method Followed by Toronto Merchant to Combat ,..<« 

Downtown Competition — A Convenient Way of 
Handling Patterns and Making Bigger Sales — Ad- 
vertising by Electric Signs 

HERE is a scheme which a Toronto 
merchant doing business on a 
smale scale used very effectively. 

His name is H. A. Smith. He opened 
a small dry goods' store on Danforth 
Avenue, the centre of the new business 
district of that city only a few months 
ago. On that street as in most sections 
uptown, there was a general feeling 
among the merchants, that people go 
downtown to buy without giving the 
small retailer the benefit of the doubt. 
It is a fact that some customers are 
convinced, if they see things for a low 
price in their own neighborhood that 
they must be cheaper still in the large 
stores. Mr. Smith realized at the outset 
that he would have to go after business 
in a very live manner in order to keep 
customers in their own territory. He 
therefore made it a point to offer one 
or more articles at a price which was 
even lower than those advertised by the 
big stores. By getting customers into 
the shop in this way he could then show 
them his merchandise and the price and 
quality of it as compared with the 
downtown stores. 

A sample of the card which appeared 
each day in his window is shown on this 

Customers soon learned to stop before 
his window and see what Mr. Smith had 
to offer. That this must have been ef- 
fective is proven by the fact that he has 
been forced to move from the premises 
he took over eight months ago and rent 
one which is very much larger. 

Handling Patterns 

Mr. Smith had twenty years' experi- 
ence with one of the largest pattern 
houses in America before going into 
business. As a salesman for this firm 
he had held many pet theories on the 
best way to sell patterns. He used his 
present opportunity to prove them. He 
built four 20-drawer sections of cabinets 
to hold the patterns. There is no pigeon- 
holing done so that not a minute is lost 
in finding the exact pattern asked for. 
Besides these cabinets Mr. Smith had a 
special counter made. It is ten feet long 
and forty inches high. There is no 
strain involved in standing to look at 
patterns placed at this height. It also 
prevents the scattering of pattern books 
to other counters. Patterns are record- 
ed constantly by the salesgirls. If at 
all possible a size is not allowed to go 
longer than one day without being re- 

Lights and Signs Below Windows 

Besides the four lights in each of his 
three windows Mr. Smith has used the 
space below for additional display. In 
these spaces he has placed glass and 
high-powered lights, behind signs which 
change every week. He believes that 

Buy at Home 

Downtown Store 
Advertises :- 

Tumday» Big Spmial.' 32-inch Gingham 

Many »re the new pattern* now in this gmu\. 
—nev« before abbwn. These are tlte fine smooth I 
J texture Gingbama so desirable for the i>etter | 
dcewee Forty or more checked patterns are shown I 
id fetching color schemes, guaranteed to be abso- 
| lutely fart. We will replace any of these ginc 
[ hams jf they fade. Yard 

Smiths Dry Goods 
682 Danforth Ave. 

On Danforth 
or Downtown 

you should buy 

Qua! ity . 

he receives a great deal of night adver- 
tising in this way, because situated as 
he is where there is a steady flew of 
traffic to and from motion picture houses 
he attracts many leisurely walking ped- 
estrians. As a matter of fact, the pub- 
lic will notice lights near the street 
level far more quickly than they will 
those overhead because they are more 
unusual. He changes the signs every 
week so there is always a new reason 
to look in passing. His name, moreover, 
is kept prominently in view not only 
here but above the door. 

J. P. Donald, of Toronto, has accepted 
an important position witih the Lindsay 
Woollen Mills, in Lindsay, Ont. 

Isaac V. Williams, who was on tihe 
office staff of Nerlich & Co., Toronto, 
for more than seventeen years, died in 
Vancouver recently. He had been suf- 
fering from gland trouble for eig-h 
months. He is survived by six daught- 
ers and one fon. 



Spring Brings Revival /fn Lace> 

That this winter has brten a season 
for laces beyond all expectation^ one 
cannot deny; but it has been a season 
for he importer and not for the home- 
grown brand of lace maker. The French 
laces, particularly radium, have practic- 
ally dominated the marketi. Spring 
gowns on .he other hand show a ten- 
dency toward favoring flouncings, filet 
and Cluny laces, so manufacturers are 
feeling very much encouraged. 

Embroidery is also coming back to 
its own. There are some very attract- 
ive designs on the market just now and 
one salesman believes that it will be 
used for trimmings and flounces as 
much as lace is. 

Nearly all the embroidery seen these 
days, is made by machinery and most 
of it by the shuttle embroidery machine. 
This machine is a Swiss invention dat- 
ing back fifty years. Nottingham, 
Eng. was the first emibroidery making 
centre in the world and it was to this 
city that the shuttle machine was intro- 
duced in 1883. The original machine 
made only 40 stitches a minute and pro- 
duced embroidery in lengths of four 
and a half yards. Nowadays, the im- 
proved machines make 120 stitches a 
minute, do all manner of pieced open- 
work and produce any length required. 

In the early days, these machines 
were operated by pantograph, which is 
an adaptation of an ingenious invention 
by a Jesuit priest in the 17th century. 
The general scheme is to permit a de- 
sign existing in one scale to be copied 
large and smaller. The movable arm 
in some embroidery machines is a sur- 
vival of the pantograph. The hand of 
the workman manipulates it in such a 
way that it traces the original design, 
allowing the embroidery needle to ma'e 
the pattern like the original but in the 
desired size. Great accuracy is" neces- 
sary in guiding this arm, imperfections 
being made very easily because of the 
high rate of speed at which the machine 

The Jacquard machine used mostly 
nowadays is quite different. One skill- 
ed card puncher punches the pattern, 
there being plenty of time to study each 
stitch The machine reproduces the 
work as frequently as is required and 
with unfailing accuracy. Jacquard ma- 
chines are used in one form or another, 
in various branches of the fabric mak- 
ing industry. 


Professor Maitland C. Boswell, of the 
Universitv of Toronto, has discovered a 
new chemical reaction which can be em- 
ployed in making dyesitaffs from coal- 
tar products. Two colors, a blue and a 
beautiful shade of rose, have been pro- 
duced. Thev can be applied to cotton, 
wool and silk and are fast to light and 



Dry Goods Review 


"This month we are opening a new factory 
for WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes in Orange, New 
Jersey. It is a very unusual factory and we 
feel justified in being proud of it. 

"To begin with, it is not in a factory district 
— it didn't have to be. The manufacture of 
our bias tapes is so cleanly, so orderly, so 
attractive a process, that we were permitted 
to build in a restricted quarter where there 
are no other industries. 

"The building of steel and tapestry brick is 
architecturally meritorious and contains ample 
space for many new units of the patented 
machinery with which we sew, cut, wind and 
pack WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes. With all these 
new facilities at our disposal we hope to be 
able to keep up with 1922 orders as they 
come in. 

"This new factory is the expression of our 
firm belief that women are doing more and 
more home sewing every year, and that they 
are going to buy more and more of all those 
helps and conveniences which make the labor 
of sewing easier and improve the quality of 
the work." 

Send for Color Card of 

Showing our full line of fast colored percales, also Wright's 

E-Z-Trim. You will find this card to be a great convenience 

in making up your orders. It shows our 12 plain and 6 

si lipid colors of Tape and 6 colors of E-Z-Trim. 


Something new and useful for the Notion Department. 
Sample card showing colors sent on request. 



350-370 Scotland 

Orange, N.J. 


It turns itself 


InU. S.Pat. Off 

Now as Never Before — 

You Need Sound 
Financial Information 

THERE never was a time when 
business merchants needed sound, 
sane, financial knowledge of com- 
mercial happenings on which to base 
present and future investments as they 
do right now. 

For your business profits are not real 
profits until you have them safely in- 
vested in reliable securities. 

Why not invest profits from your 
shop and the coupons from your Vic- 
tory Bonds in genuine securities, news 
of which you will find every week in 
Enquiry Service, a feature for sub- 
scribers which will give you the benefit 
of investigators in all the big financial 
centres? This service is just as if you 
paid a man $10,000 a year to be your 
own personal investigator in Toronto, 
Montreal, Winnipeg — in fact, every 
city in the Dominion. 

But you cannot hire the services of 
this staff — you get them free with a 
subscription to THE FINANCIAL 
POST, through this splendid Investors' 
Enquiry Service, which is free to all 

But that is not the only thing — this 
commercial newspaper gives you the 
financial, industrial, banking news of 
the country in convenient readable 
form — just the data you need for your 
business — just the facts you need for 
your investments — in fact, a splendid 
partner of the ambitious merchant. 

When 8,425 merchants, business 
executives, bankers, lawyers find in 
facts which will help them in their 
business, will you not find a weekly 
reading of its pages very beneficial? 


143-153 University Ave., Toronto, Ont. 



143-153 University Ave., Toronto. 
On the understanding that THE FINAN- 
CIAL POST contains just the facts I need for 
safe investment of profit, you may send me a 
recent issue. 

Name . . 


Dry Goods Review 



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Canadian Wax Mannequin 

Why Not Have a Double 
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All kinds of Wire Cash and 
Parcel Carriers and Pneu- 
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Co., Limited 

113 Sumach St., Toronto. 

The merits of our Cash Carrier System should warrant your 
careful consideration. We believe they will, and, too, that you 
will agree with us after making an examination of them. As 
a beginning we would suggest that you send for our illustrated 
catalogue which shows alll kinds of wire carriers for conveying 
cash, or cash and parcels. It will be better, for you to be pre- 
pared at this time when the season is right, than it will to be 
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be prepared? 

1^^ When Answering Advertisements Kindly Mention This Magazine lilt 



Dry Goods Review 

Swinging Pendulum of the Ad. Man 

Unusual Methods Will Bring Home The Bacon in 1922 — Adver- 
tising Must Follow A New Track Without Being Yellow — Some 
Methods Tried by F. R. MacMillan's of Saskatoon— Plan That 

Brought Good Results 

Written By James Burt Malette, Advertising Manager for F. 'R. MacMillan Ltd., Saskatoon, Western 
Canada Member International Board ABA 

THROUGHOUT the thoroughfares 
of the commercial world the word 
has been flashed, "Unusual meth- 
ods will bring home the bacon in 1922." 
We see business men reaching out for 
new ways and means to secure the usu- 
al slice of progress, bank and financial 
experts cudgelling their brains for new 
thoughts. New methods are being adopt- 
ed in factories, warehouses and ex- 
porting establishments, merchandise 
buyers are adopting new ideas in pur- 
chasing, the entire buying and merchan- 
dising fraternity 'has suddenly awaken- 
ed from a deep slumber of easy money, 
high prices and passive indifference to 
costs and with the advent of the New 
Year has gone to work on a brand new 
plane involving methods that are as dis- 
tinctly different from those followed in 
1920 and for the past five preceding 
years as midnight from midday! 

Advertising Methods Behind 

And while this transition is taking 
place what is advertising doing? Stand- 
ing as still as the Rock of Gibraltar! 
Advertising, the much vaunted "live 
wire" of business, "The life of the 
Trade" has failed to change its colors 
to suit the surroundings. I venture to 
state that it is the one arm of commer- 
cial service that has failed to keep time 
with the pendulum. For instance, 
glance over the large daily papers of the 
day — The New York Times, Philadel- 
phia Public Ledger, Boston Transcript, 
Chicago Tribune, Indianapolis Star, Los 
Angeles Times, Montreal Star, any Tor- 
onto or Winnipeg paper that you will, 
and fire your imagination to fever heat, 
you will fail to find any radical change 
in the clothing of the advertising of any 
firm using the columns of any of these 
periodicals! Strange, is it not, when 
other features and branches of service 
have altered so materially to meet the 
changing conditions. 

An old college dhum of mine in Chi- 
cago, advertising manager of one of the 
Lake City's largest stores, does not agree 
entirely with me in what I am- about to 
set forth in this article. There may be 
others who will take another view than 
mine but the fact remains that this 
policy I enunciate and which I put in 
force in the store I am at present asso- 
ciated with has brought generous re- 
turns from every dollar expended in its 

A Brand New Style 

Let sis take F. R. MacMillan's as an 

example. This store was doing the 

largest business in Central or Northe n 

Saskatchewan in the Spring of 1920 and 

indicaticns pointed to a bumper crop, 
liberal credits and easV money in the 

September arrived and with it the sad 
tidings that Northern Saskatchewan's 
crop would fall far sho:-t of expecta- 
tions. We held a council and after re- 
viewing market reports and special in- 
formation that we fortunately had at 
our disposal agreed that the time had 
come when strenuous measures must be 
adopted to meet a condition that as yet 
we had never been called upon to face. 
The first thing was to pare buying ap- 
propriations as much as possible, giving 
due regard for "wanted" lines, sizes, 
etc., in staples. In some instances or- 
ders for goods totalling some $80,000 
were cut 33 1-3 %. We made sure we 
could do this and still lose no business. 
The next thing in order was to adopt 
methods that would be noticed by the 
public and the first two things to be 
called up on the carpet were advertising 
and windows. Formerly our windows 
and advertising had been conducted 
along lines calculated to raise the pres- 
tige of the establishment and the pres- 
tige had been secured by such methods 
but the point then was how to alter our 
scheme of things so that we might re- 
tain this good standing and in addition 
force business frcm exhausted purses! 

A New Plan 

I held a special consultation with our 
display manager and he agreed with the 
principle of "Reverse English," that is 
to say, place quantity in the windows 
and the reverse in the press. To illus- 
trate. We had a great sale of towels, 
5,000 pairs of various sorts. In the win- 
dow he showed a complete bathroom, bowl, seat, bathtub, towel racks, 
etc. And the window was literally alive 
wtih towels hundreds of them, not 
thrown in, but tastefully arranged. It 
would be impossible for anyone even 
across the street to pass the building 
without gaining the knowledge that 
there was a huge sale of towels on foot. 
In the advertisement, (we use two pages 
each day) was a half page devoted to 
nothing save towels. The display used 
was liberal, type large and plenty of 
towel illustrations were employed and 
although jt created a sensation it did 
not smack of the spectacular in any 
sense. But it did allow the public the 
impression that we were doing some- 
thing out of the ordinary. Results from 
this initial move were immensely grati- 
fying to all of us. The balance of the 
page was taken up by two departments 
and each used but two items. Here we 
have a total of five sales on one page 

that produced results fully 50% in ex- 
cess of any previous sale day of a simi- 
lar character in our history! 

Must Have Features 

I am decidedly opposed to crowding 
newspaper advertising irrespective of 
what reputation the firm enjoys. A 
page devoid of features from day to day 
will never gain adherents to the firm's 
line of patronage and, after all, this is 
one of the purposes of every advertise- 
ment. Net merely to secure "repeat" 
orders, but to sell in new fields, to catch 
the eye of the occasional "ad" reader as 
well as the woman or the man who 
make a business of studying your store's 
publicity. It is new friends we want as 
well as the continued business of old 

Another Plan that Worked 
Along in the earlier portion of 1921 
we tried another tack. We began ex- 
ploiting one department per day. That 
is to say give up a full page to the offer- 
ings of one department. But the de- 
partment securing the day's space must 
find enough "meat" to feed the readers 
else the page was "auctioned off" to the 
highest department bidder. We found 
this method just as successful as the 
first and before long became aware of 
the fact that the general public were 
beginning to ask, "What will MacMillans 
do next?" The element of surprise was 
apparent. We knew that we had the 
confidence of the public begotten by 
years of real honest dealing (not fan- 
cied) and in each case when some sen- 
sational happening was on the tapis, the 
public came to know that the particular 
sale was a real event offering intrinsic 
worth. And never once did we fail 

The next move for publicity (note that 
we were getting a large share of general 
publicity as well as immense direct re- 
sults) was in the form of a "Value Quar- 
tette" — I dub this such, though we did 
not use the term in our advertising. 
This consisted in giving up the page on 
alternate days to four departments 
and these departments could use 
but two items in a given space. 
This occurred on Monday night, Wednes- 
day night and Friday night. On Tues- 
days, Thursdays and Saturdays compos- 
ite advertisements appeared. This went 
over pust as large as life. , 

Don't Neglect Departments 

There are many merchants who will 

interrupt here with the exclamation — 

"The other depts. do not get a chance in 

any of these plans." But they do! We 

(Continued on page 107) 

Dry Goods Review 



Unique Method of Cutting Overhead 

Problem Of Overhead Is Problem Of Maintaining Efficiency And 

Morale Of Sales' Organizations — Present Conditions Survival Of 

Salesmanship As It Is Survival Of Individual Businesses — An 

Extra Week Of Holidays A Month Without Pay 

PUTTING down overhead expenses 
without striking at the effective- 
ness of the sales' organization or 
interfering with their morale is one of 
the problems being faced by the retailer 
during this year. It is not the easiest 
thing in the world to do; yet most deal- 
ers recognize that it is a year when 
overhead has to be reduced if the bal- 
ance sheet at the end of the year is to 
show a fair percentage of profit on the 
year's business. There are many ways 
of reducing this overhead. Not a few 
dea'ers are scanning their premises to 
see if there are not some waste spots 
here and there that might be turned to 
useful purpose, such as adding a couple 
of new lines that will bring profit with- 
out any additional, or much additional 
expense in the way of a sales' staff. 
Some are cutting down the salaries of 
their staffs, explaining! to them that 
the surest way ito get back to normal 
times is to reduce the costs of produc- 
tion so that the selling price may be more 
appea'ing to the customer and he will 
come into the market to purchase his 
legitimate requirements. One way of 
doing this, they say, is to reduce salar- 
ies commensurate with the lowering 
cost of living. Again, dealers who have 
been giving bonuses are discontinuing 
them; or others who have been granting 
commissions on sales are either reduc- 
ing the commission percentage or cut- 
ting them off altogether. Some are re- 
ducing the cost of an extravagant r<" 
livery service that developed during the 
very prosperous years of 1919 and 1920; 
others are making the fatal mistake of 
cutting down their advertising to such 
an extent that it is almost extinct. It 
is safe to say that this prob'em of over- 
head will be one of the outstanding, if 
not the outstanding problem of the year 

Extra Holidays 
With the first of the year, a certain 
dealer known to us decided to confront 
this problem, keeping in view the desir- 
ability of maintaining the efficiency of 
his sales' force as well as the personnel. 
He did not want to cut salaries; he did 
not care to dismiss any of the members 
of his organization because, natural' y. 
he believed h to be a good one, built up 
with extreme care. At the same time, 
he felt that something had to be done 
to cut down overhead and he knew that 
the members of the sales' force would 
listen to reasonable propositions and 
would assist in every possible way to 
meet an outstanding problem of the 

The head of this firm believes that the 
most successful way to get a f a proVem 
is to come to close grips with it. 

He, therefore, called the members of 
the sales' force together in conference. 
He talked to them. He told them he 
had always felt kindly disposed toward 
every member of the staff. He said it 
was obvious to all of them that business 
was much harder to get at the present 
time than it had been during the pros- 
perous years of a coup'e of years ago. 
Reducing overhead, he said, was one of 
the big problems and, naturally, they 
were looking to him to meet this res- 
ponsibility and wondering in what way 
he would meet it. 

They Must Share It 

He wanted to make the point a strong 
one, however, that they must help face 
this responsibility as well as he. Busi- 
ness could not be conducted as it had 
been during the years 1918-19-20. If it 
were, they must go under. Such meth- 
ods had to be gotten away from. Busi- 
ness to-day was the survival of the fit- 
test. It was not only the survival of 
the fittest for firms but for salesmen 
as well. He told the members of the 
staff that he received frequent tele- 
phone calls from people who wanted 
their jobs and who would take them at 
a smaller salary than he was giving 
them. This, he did not want to do; but 
he still pointed out that overhead had 
to be reduced. It was either a case of 
reducing the staff by dismissals or com- 
ing to some arrangement whereby the 
present staff could be maintained on the 
same standard of wages. 

How it Was Done 

Not only the head of the firm, but 
every member of the staff was anxious 
to maintain the personnel of the sales' 
organization. Dismissals are disorgan- 
izing and demoralizing. An atmosphere 
of uncertainty, of "what's coming next." 
is created. A nervousness creeps into 
the work of the organization that is 
harmful and may lead to disaster. This 
must be avoided. 

The arrangement arrived at satisfied 
all the members of the staff. It was 
arranged that every member of the staff 
should have a week's ho'nday for each 
of the three months of January, Feb- 
ruary and March. The schedule was ar- 
ranged in such a way that seasonal de- 
partments were not handicapped by an 
inadequate staff. Of course, these holi- 
days — unlike the regular summer holi- 
days — were without pay. 

By this method, the firm is able to 
cut down its overhead expenses on sal- 
aries a good deal during the year. It 
represents a considerable saving where 
there is a store with many departments 

in it. At the same time, the sales' or- 
ganization is entirely satisfied with 
this method. And that is a good deal 
to be thought of these days. They not 
only feel that they are doing something 
to help their employer meet a perplex- 
ing problem, but they feel that they are 
making a slight sacrifice that helps 
another keep his or her job during the 
twelve months of the year. They are 
getting a rest that does not hurt them. 
They put extra "ginger" into their ef- 
forts when they come back from their 
week's rest. The plan seems to be a 
good one because it does all that it is 
intended to do — cuts down overhead and 
maintains the efficiency and morale of 
the entire sales' organization. 



Bellevike, Jan. 12— Thomas Rit- 
chie, a Belleville merchant, who died 
some weeks ago, left an estate valued 
at $126,547, from which he made un- 
usual.y large bequests to charity. 

The sum of $40,000 is given to the 
Women's Christian Association to erect 
a nurses' home in connection with the 
local hospital, and $20,000 to extend the 
work of the hospital; $15,000 to the 
Children's Aid Society; $10,000 to Al- 
bert College; $12,000 to the city for 
playgrounds; and $100 each to 
employes, and part of the residue to the 
aforementioned charities. 


(Continued from page 106.) 

have proven beyond doubt that these 
big special days draw the crowds! We 
have proven that when a sale is in pro- 
gress in the china shop that the hard- 
ware store gets a large share of the pat- 
ronage, and that a goodly portion sifts 
right through the store. Then again 
under all these schemes each department 
is represented in the soiling plan at var- 
ious periods. It is plainly up to a de- 
partment manager to make his space 

For the greater portion of my adver- 
tising career, I have been accustomed to 
publishing, writing and editing copy 
that smacked very strongly of the con- 
servative. I am now certain of this 
fact. That the average store of today 
must adopt the most strenuous type of 
advertising coupled with more aggressive 
merchandising in order to tread water 
until normal times arrive. The mere 
circus type of display will not suffice. 
It is possible to have an advertisement 
striking without resource to the yellow 
paint pot! In this case it is plainly a 
problem for the writer. 



Dry Goods Review 

Firm Starts Educational Department 

Manchester Robertson Allison Co. of St. John Inaugurated New 

Policy Few Months Ago — A Year's Course of Weekly Lectures 

on Salesmanship — No Interference With Internal Management — 

An Additional Feature — A Forward Step 

ONE way of cutting down overhead 
expenses in connection with the 
cost of selling is to De saxs cnat 
salesmen are throughly equipped sales- 
men and saleswomen. And one very ef- 
fective way to throughly equip the mem- 
bers of the sales staff is to train them 
in the art of salesmanship. Salesman- 
ship today is a science; it is no longer 
the simple act of wrapping up a parcel, 
making out a bill and taking the custo- 
mer's money. Those days have gone. 

And since their passing, a number of 
progressive firms, realizing the first im- 
portance of expert salesmanship, have 
undertaken to provide their sales staff 
with courses in salesmanship. Nothing 
but the highest praise can be spoken for 
this action on the part of a number of 
Canadian firms. Experience shows that 
the returns from such a venture are 
well worth while from many angles. It 
makes for better, happier, more profi- 
cient salespeople and it creates a team- 
spirit in the organization that works out 
to the decided benefit of the firm and 
all who work for it. 

M. R. A. of St. John, N. B. 

One of the latest firms to fall in 
line in this respect is Manchester Rob- 
ertson Allison, Limited, of St. John, N.B., 
one of the progressive firms of the east- 
ern section of this country. Referring 
to it to a staff member of Dry Goods 
Review, Walter Allison Stated that 
they had formed an educational depart- 
ment a few months ago for the purpose 
of giving better service to their patrons 
through a better sales staff. "We in- 
augurated a course of lessons in sales- 
manship," he said, "which includes in- 
struction in the better knowledge of 
goods which we sell, treatment of cus- 
tomers, general deportment, and every- 
thing else that goes to make for better 
service to our customers and more effi- 
cient salesmanship on the part of our 
sales people. 

A One Year's Course 

"This particular method," he contin- 
ued, "adopted by the company, consists 
of a year's course of weekly lectures and 
for the carrying out of the scheme 
the staff has been divided intj four 
groups having two leaders who are 
generally department heads. The groups 
are selected in such a way from the var- 
ious departments so that, while they are 
absent from the department taking 
the half-hourlv weekly lessons, there is 
the least possible weakness felt by their 
respective departments. The whole 

scheme is under the direction of Mr. 
Morrison, the store superintendent. 

"These lessons are held once a week 
from nine to nine-thiirty in the Lunch 
and Recreation rooms. Four and five 
days previous to the date on which a 
special group is to meet the lesson to 
be discussed is handed on mimeographed 
sheets to each member of that group, 
which gives each member of the group 
an opportunity for study for several 
days before the meeting for the dis- 
cussion of it. 

"Saturday morning from nine to 
nine-thirty is reserved f^.r a meeting of 
the group leaders, eight in all, for mu- 
tual exchange of ideas tending to mak- 
ing them more efficient as leaders. 

Regular Meeting Days 

"The regular meeting days for the 
groups are Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 
and Thursday mornings from nine to 
nine-thirty. So far, all of those partici- 
pating in these lessons are very much 
pleased. The scheme has produced in- 
creased interest in their work and both 
employees and the management are well 
satisfied with the progress made. 

Additional Features 

"In addition to this course of lectur- 
es, there are four bulletin boards posted 
in conspicuous places throughout the 
store on which is posted each week some 
photos of actual scenes of incidents 
in store selling, which are very much 
more illuminating in pressing home an 
effective point in salesmanship than any 
printed matter would be. 

"This bulletin board also contains a 
hint sometimes as to deportment such 
as 'Smile and keep smiling' and such 
trite phrases. Also a space on the 
board is devoted to a description of some 
popular textile showing a sample of it 
and a brief history of its origin, name, 
uses and probable weakness and strong- 
points. Also another paragraph describ- 
ing the photo incident. 

Public May See Them 

"These are on view to the public as 
well as to the staff and tend towards a 
better mutual understanding on the part 
of the salespeople and customers by 
creating a more sympathetic feeling 
between these two very important fact- 
ors in the selling of merchandise, an 1 
incidentally, by being in plain view of 
the public, generally suggest to our cus- 
tomers that we are striving always to 
give them better service, the moral effect 
of which is more far-reaching than is 
generally realized. 

"There is no doubt in our minds but 
that this is a decided forward step of 
great benefit and will make for effici- 
ency in the future which will be greatly 
appreciated as the time goes on." 


Continued from page 89 
the figure without corsets. This is a step 
further than most fitters have taken so 
far. The general rule is to allow two 
inches more than the tape measures over 
the corsets. This woman declares that ?f 
the corset which the customer is wear- 
ing does not fit, :t hardly can be expect- 
ed that measurement taken ovor such a 
corset will be correct. Probably the 
diaphragm or the hips arc drawn in out 
of all proportion in the corset which the 
customer is wearing and in that case 
it is very hard to convinc;: some people 
that a measurement allowing - for such is 

Many stores in Canada have not as 
yet placed fitting rooms in their corset 
departments and in these stores it would 
be almost impossible to fit in the way de- 
scribed. It is surprising, however, to see 
the number of stores which are adding 
fitting rooms and are taking particular 
pride in the fact that one or more of 
their salesgirls are trained fitters. 

The Turnbull store of Peterboro has 
a scheme which might be tried out in 
smaller stores, where there is not suf- 
ficient room or business to go to the ex- 
pense of a special fitting room. This 
store has placed its corset department 
next to its ready-to-wear. The same fit- 
ting rooms are used for both. This 
sometimes gives an unexpected corset 
sale as well, because when women realize 
that a prospective gcwn doesn't look its 
best over the corset which they are wear- 
ing, they often decide to be fitted for a 
new corset at the same time. 

No less a personage than Miss Cecil 
Leitch, English golf champion, has paid 
a tribute 'o the sports costumes of Can- 
adian women. "It' was a most attract- 
ive Sight to see dozens of women in 
white skirts and thin sweaters (or 
jumpers, as we call them) with the turn- 
ed down collar and turned back cuffs of 
a light blouse and a narrow waist belt 
completing a truly becoming outfit," 
was her comment. Miss Leitch is of 
the opinion that there is a golden op- 
portunity awaiting a "woman golfers" 
outfitter in America, since the game i* 
becoming so popular with women. 

Dry Goods Review 




(Continued from page 95.) 
that the headwear for girls is stocked 
to age 15 only, while that for boys is 
carried right through to adult sizes. An 
effort is made to specialize in a few good 
lines only and the tastes of customers 
are consulted when each season's stocks 
are being ordered, so that no dead stock 
accumulates. The country people pre- 
fer conservative headwe'ar which will not 
go out of style rapidly, and they firmly 
believe that the best merchandise is the 
cheapest in the long run. Usually when 
this store has sold a hat to a customer, 
whether for a b:y or girl or grown 
member of the family, it can always 
count upon getting the trade of the 
rest of the household. Care is taken to 
show real interest in the purchase, to sell 
just the right hat at the right price, en- 
suring satisfaction to the customer be- 
fore clinching the sale. This policy ap- 
peals strongly to the thrifty habitant 
and in consequence every man, woman 
and child for twenty-five miles around 
the town has at some time or other worn 
a Lanoix hat. 

There is no call whatever for inferior 
qualities in either hats or furs in the 
Lanoix business and customers seem to 
examine goods for their quality alone. 
It is an established rule to tell the cus- 
tomer exactly what they are getting, 
and in the case of dyed pelts infinite 
pains are taken to explain the exact 
difference between electric Chapel-dyed 
or French seal as compared with Hud- 
son seal. Likewise an effort is made to 
reproduce all the smart and new styles 
in garments and neckpieces each sea- 
son and no attempt is nvade to foist off 
old stuff just because the purchaser is 
a country woman who is not informed 
as to what styles are correct. 

Fine Furs Chosen Personally 

According to Mr. Durocher the big- 
gest demand is for Hudson seal, Per- 
sian lamb and raccoon coats this sea- 
son and owing to the fact that he pur- 
chases the pelts from the trapper per- 
sonally in most eases and has the rats 
dyed to his own order, he can turn out 
a smart coat at a considerably lower 
price than it would command in a city 
store. Similarly he obtains his other 
pelts at the Montreal auctions by per- 
sonal selection and although the busi- 
ness is strictly retail, the customers get 
the benefit of expert manufacturing. 

No old furs are ever accepted and the 
repair work done in slack seasons is still 
another branch of the splendid service 
rendered by this small but highly effi- 
cient store. During the spring months 
customers bring back their garments to 
be stored until the fall and thus the 
store keeps in touch with them all the 
year round. 

Uses the Movies 

The best method of publicity tried out 
by the store is that of running an artis- 
tic colored slide at the local movie thea- 
tre, illustrating a magnificent mink 
wrap, plentifully elaborated with tails 
and heads. This garment which is ac- 
tually reproduced in the store's range 

of styles, proves a good inducement 
round holiday times to customers. At 
other times of the year, slides showing- 
new felt or straw hats are shown over 
the firm's name. 

A Rendez-Vous for Tourists 

Of late years tourist trade has be- 
come quite a specialized line with the 
Lanoix store,, and it is by no means un- 
usual to have a dusty motor draw up on 
a hot July day, at the front door, while 
an American voice enquires if this is the 
store where they make fur coats right 
on the premises. Motorists passing- 
through St. Hyacinthe from Quebec to 
Montreal rarely omit a visit to this 
busy establishment and still less rarely 
forget to leave an order for some fur 
which is peculiarly Canadian in nature. 

Thus the native pelts including musk- 
rat, beaver, fox, etc., are handed over 
to the visitor who is able to take a con- 
siderable quantity of raw skins through 
to the United States without paying- 

Although the equipment of the little 
siore is modern in appearance and a If 
quate for the needs and character of the 
business, yet there is, nevertheless, a 
quaint old-world atmosphere about it, 
possibly due to the fact that there is 
scarcely an inch of empty space over- 
head or along the walls where pelts or 
furs are not hung. The chief thing no- 
ticeable to the stranger in connection 
with the store is the fact that this very 
atmosphere or character is not striven 
after, not affected, but is essentially a 
part of the very genuine and honest 
foundation upon which the business has 
been built up. 


(Continued from page 94.) 
Chokers Will Ba Doub e-furred 

Most of the chokers being made for 
the Spring, are not lined on the inside 
as they were last year. The brown furs 
will be used for the most part. Mink will 
be good but copper sable or stone marten 
will be better still. When the latter fur 
is dyed it looks so unlike the natural 
fur that few people realize the close con- 
nection between the Canadian Marten and 
the Russian one. There is such a differ- 
ence between the cost of the little ani- 
mal commercially called the copper sable 
or the Hudson sable and the extravagant 
Russian sable, that they do not realize 
they are both of the marten family only 
brought up in different countries. The 
two animals are about the same shade 
of brown and their dark marking is very 
similar. The Russian one has light grey 
hairs sprinkled throughout, which is the 
only real mark of distinction to the am- 
ateur. They are very nearly of a size. 
The fur of the Canadian marten is not 
always as silky in quality as the other 
but there are some skins just as soft as 
the genuine ones from Russia. 

Seal Dyed in Canada 

When the first vogue for Hudson seal 
reached Canada, furriers used to* ship 
the real skins to Europe to be dyed. 
Many of them were done in England. 
Then the United States received most of 
them. For the last three years, much of 
the dyeing has been done here. One 
furrier is willing to go so far as to say 
that those dyed in Canada are even bet- 
ter than those which come from Europe 
or the United States. 

Corsets and underwear of -pastel colorings formed a dainty display in one 

of the smaller windows of the Bryson-Graham store of Ottawa recently. 

Window arranged by Fred Ashfield, Display Manager. 



Dry Goods Review 


Display Forms and Fixtures 


Illustrated herewith — enamel and White Jersey 
Cloth. New Narrow shoulder, mounted on 
heavy round metal base, highly polished and 
finished in any color desired. 

Our goods are guaranteed and are being used 
by stores from Coast to Coast. 

Prepare NOW to dress up for Easter 

Dale Wax Figure Co., Limited 

Canada's Leading Manufacturers of 

Store Display Fixtures and Form Rac\s and 


86 York Street, -:- TORONTO 

Made in Canada 


AGENTS P. R. Munro O'Brien, Allen & Company 

259 Bleary St. Phoenix Block 

VANCOUVER E. R. Bollert & Son 501 Mercantile Bldg. 


No. 70 D-2 



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No. 70 Shelf 

Combination of 50" long, 26" wide, 7' high sections. Center units for Shirts, Underwear, Skirts, 

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Show Cases, 

Wall Cases, 





Are your fixtures worthy of the 
wares you display? Our name 
in fixtures means durability and 
attractiveness with moderate ex- 

Your Store 
Attracts or 
Detracts by 
the Quality 
of its 



Dry Goods Review 






e users can now 

benefit by automatic desk advantages 

THE new cable desk pictured above is a worthy companion of 
the automatic tube desk, which is making such records for 
lower expenses and better service. 

Consecutive handling and even distribution of carriers is 
the secret of the new desk. Cash and charge carriers come to 
the cashiers and authorizers on a swiftly moving belt, the charge 
carriers being distinguished by their color. Every operator 
picks up the carriers in the order in which they arrive in the desk. 

Under this new plan every customer is served in turn and all 
receive prompt service regardless of the kind of sale or the section 
where the purchase is made. 

The work is made easier for the operators, as the cash or 
charge boxes are always within reach and are conveniently 
despatched over the return tracks which are grouped in the center 
of the station. This ease of operation together with the equal dis- 
tribution of work among the operators enables the business of a 
store to be handled with fewer cashiers and authorizers than 
where the older types of central desk are used. 

It will pay you to investigate. Upon request we shall be glad 
to show you how this new desk will benefit you. 


oronto — 

136 Simcoe Street 

Vancouver, B.C. 

603 Hastings St 

Lamson »»aS> Service 

Flexibility Economy 



Dry Goods Review 

Plan Easter 

Improvements NOW 

"Do Appearances Count" 

Our catalogue will help you 
with your display problems. 

Send for copy. 

g w 



London, England 

Established 1896 

Toronto, Canada 

Incorporated 1908 


Vancouver. B. C. — J. S. Maxwell & Co., Mercantile Bldg. Halifax, N. S.— D. A Gorrie Box 273 
Montreal. Que.- E. O. Barette & Co., 301 St. James St. Quebec^Nap. Debigare 205 Rue des" Fosses 
Travelling Western Representative — S. J. Barley. 

Our Latest 


In Wax 

No. 3 

We now have at 
our show rooms 
an ex-position of 
wax. We invite 
all to inspect it. 

J. R. Palmenberg's Sons Inc. 

63-65 West 36th Street, New York 


Could you retire in 20 years? 

Perhaps you don't want to — but all the same it is 
a very pleasant feeling to have enough gilt-edged 
securities tucked away that if business does get 
troublesome you haven't the slightest worry. 

The big point is this — profit is not profit until it 
is safely invested and bearing interest. There is so 
much of the average merchant's earnings that are 
frittered away in non-essentials, when he might 
create an estate separate from his business load. 

THE FINANCIAL POST points the way to »afe, 
sane investment in sound securities. Through the- 
Investors' Enquiry Service you get the bed-rock 
facts behind any and all investments. Before you 
buy — write. 

The $5.00 invested in THE FINANCIAL POST 
service for a year will mean hundreds of dollars to 
you, if you follow the hints, tips and suggestions in 
the investment of your profits. When so many mer- 
chants have found its pages valuable to them, will 
you not fill in the coupon and find out for yourself 
just how valuable THE FINANCIAL POST can be 
to you? 


143 University Ave., 

Toronto, Ont. 

On the understanding that THE FINANCIAL POST holds 
just the facts I need for safe investment, you may send 
me a recent issue. If I decide not to take it, I will write 
you within five days — otherwise you may bill me for $6, 
subscription price for one year. 



Dni Goods Review 




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Linoleum Rugs' 

Put Your Stock in Order Early 

EACH year brings an increased demand for Linoleum Rugs. 
They appeal to women as a most sensible, clean, attrac- 
tive floor-covering, and new buyers are in the market whom you 
can easily secure if you solicit their trade. 


and You Will Make Them 

Order a good supply of DOMINION LINOLEUM RUGS NOW, 

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Think of what our full page color advertisements mean to you 
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#^7 ^Hpf \&l plete. 

J0I Order while Stocks are Unbroken 

'•Jijjjg 'ris&r NOTE: Write us for window display material, newspaper 
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Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co. 




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Dry Goods Review 

Helping Sale of Floor Coverings 

Promise of Good Year for Those Who Specialize on This Trade — 

National Advertising Stressing Sanitary Features Has Helped — 

Extensive Assortment — Attractive Display — Choosing Customers 

— Marking of Goods — Advertising Merchandise 

AT THE REQUEST of Dry Goods 
Review a representative of one of 
the foremost Canadian companies 
manufacturing oilcloth and allied pro- 
ducts has very kindly furnished the fol- 
lowing; statement regarding; conditions 
in this industry, for the benefit of the 
readers of this journal. 

"1922 Promises to be a Good 

Year for Linoleums ' / 

That the present year will be an ex- 
cellent one for merchants who special- \ 
ize in the sale of linoleum, oilcloth and ' 
similar floor coverings is assured for 
several definite reasons: — First, prices 
are much more attractive now, having 
been reduced materially within the past 
twelve months; in some instances the 
reductions amount to 35% and even 
more, and the declines are marked all 
round. Argument regarding the value 
of price reduction would be idle, so that 
the trade may here seize upon one of 
the very best arguments in planning 
forward sales. 

Second, the array of new designs for 
the coming season is very extensive in 
both linoleums and floor oilcloth, and in 
rugs of both materials there are changes 
and additions which permit every mer- 
chant and firm to add to their selections 
goods that will appeal to customers' 
tastes. These new creations come at no 
advance in price and are subject to the 
same reduced costs applying to the 
standardized patterns. 

National Advertising Helps 

A decidedly increased demand for 
these sanitary floor coverings has been 
manifested in recent years, and partic- 
ularly within the last few, owing to ed- 
ucational advertising which is being ex- 
tensively conducted in national cam- 
paigns. The good sense of the modern 
housewife has been appealed to by the 
logical arguments used in outlining the 
advantages of linoleum and oilcloth. 
Modern homes, to be healthful, must be 
fitted with sanitary, cleanable floor 
coverings and no floors are more ideal 
in this respect than those of these mat- 
erials, and few can claim as much. 
In addition to this, as every person 
knows, these coverings are attractive, in 
good taste for all rooms, durable and 
easily cleaned. 

Enough has therefore been said in the 
outline above to afford the studious mer- 
chant several excellent selling points. 
But matters are made easier for him by 
the manufacturer who issues sales helps 
which are invaluable even to the most 
expert salesman. Furthermore the 
makers will forward to any merchant 


Homespun coverlets of the honeycomb 
weave. They are made in Hue and tan, 
and in black, brown, rose, tan and blue 
combined with white. — Shown nY Ken- 
wood Mills, Arnprior, Ontario. 

who is handling such floor coverings the 
new paper patterns for window and in- 
terior display; very attractive four- 
color process cards which illustrate the 
coverings in use; laying instructions for 
attaching the products to the floor; pat- 
tern books showing all designs; news- 
paper electros, etc. The wide-awake 
dealer must nowadays avail himself of 
all such material helps in going after 
new business as Spring house renova- 
tions approach. 

But after all, even when advertising is 
conducted to impress the consumer fav- 
orably, results depend very largely upon 
the energy and initiative o fthe individual 
merchant and his salesmen. Success in 
selling these products is, therefore, a 
matter of pre-determined programme, 
coupled with a determination to carry 
the program through. Here is a speci- 
men programme which has been worked 
out by a former retailer and should also 
be of service to many others. 

"Plan for Developing a Floor Covering 
1. Carry an extensive assortment. 

What would be extensive for one man 
would be inadequate for another, so 

that each merchant would have to de- 
termine for himself what his stock 
should be, keeping this in mind, how- 
ever, that most people trade where 
there is ample variety of what they re- 
quire, for there they feel surest or get- 
ting the proper selection. 

2. Make much of display. When prop- 
erly planned, a linoleum or oilcloth dis- 
play is one of the best attractions in 
any store; often it looks anything but 
attractive owing to lack of thought and 
continuous effort. Keep the department 
in the best of order and arrangement 
during all seasons. 

3. Choose your customers. Something 
new and novel ? No. Just the careful 
compiling of a good mailing list — one 
of the most important business sources 
in every store. Then write these pros- 
pects personal letters, giving them mer- 
chandise news that they will be glad to 
have, even if they do not buy until 
later. Better still, take a book of de- 
signs in your pocket and "go get the or- 

3. Mark Goods Carefully. "I sail 
Blank's floor covering for $1 a yard, 
and it costs me 45 cents," is the sub- 
stance of a remark made to the writer 
by an Ontario merchant last year. That 
is a wrong principle and will fail sooner 
or later. Mark your goods at a fair 
advance, for people will pay a fair price, 
but do not rob your customers. When 
they learn that they have been over- 
charged, they will resent and cut you 

5. Show your goods and advertise 
them. This embodies a great deal, but 
only what a 20th century merchant 
would expect in his effort to lead his 
business community. Make straight 
displays of linoleum or rugs or oilcloth 
and send for selling helps, for manufac- 
turers will gladly send these to enquir- 
ers. Link up the window displays with 
your newspaper advertising and illus- 
trate your ads with attractive actual 
pictures. Let your town or city know 
that you sell these sanitary floor cover- 
ings, so that, whether they buy to-day or 
to-morrow they win surely come to you 
when they do buy. 

Now — right now — is not too early to 
plan. It takes time, and well-laid plans 
are the kind that succeed. Will your 
sales be twice, three or four times what 
they were last year? The results are 
in your own hands, Mr. Merchant. 

The Silk Voile Mfg., Co... at Bridge- 
burg, Orot., has been forced to double 
the number of machines used in the op- 
eration of silk garments. Fifty ad- 
ditional girls have been employed dur- 
ing the last few weeks. 

Dry Goods Review 



Carpet industry Feels Cutting off of Orders 
From United States Which Came During Strike 

Received Some Big Orders During The Eight Weeks' Strike 
Across The Border — Coming Vogue of Wall to Wall Carpet — 
Few Ssamless Looms in Canada — Some Fine New Curtainings 
Being Shown To Trade — Canadian Tapestries of Good Quality 

THE CARPET industry in this 
country is a little quiet fends last 
few wests, which is all the more 
noticeable because of the cutting off of 
American orders. During the eight 
and a half months' strike of the carpet 
factories in the United States, Canadian 
factories received some splendid orders 
from the large retail firms on the oth- 
er side. The cessation of the strike has 
stopped these and manufacturers are 
now forced to rely on Canada for busi- 

One of the largest manufacturers in 
this country says that he thinks carpet 
makers have reason to register a com- 
plaint against one little difficulty which 
lies in the path of travellers who sell in 
Canada. He says that this was brought 
to light more than ever while orders 
were coming in from the United States. 
It is a commonly accepted policy not to 
sell one pattern to more than one house 
in our ci'.ies and towns. It is actually 
a fact that as ,a result of this, there are 
seldom more than one hundred and fifty 
rugs in one pattern of a fair grade Ax- 
minster or Wilton, sold in this country 
in a season. 

When the four or five colors in which 
each pattern is made, are taken into 
consideration, it is easily seen that not 
more than five hundred rugs are sold 
from coast to coast' 

In the United States, manufacturers 
may sell to as many retail houses or 
wholesalers as they care to. It is there- 
fore, not out of the ordinary to see 10,- 
000 rugs in one design and one size 
and color sold in a year. Leaving the 
comparison of the respective fields out 
of the question, there is no reason why 
fifteen hundred or more rugs of one de- 
sign should not be sold in this country, 
if every store in each town of more than 
four or five thousand, were offered sam- 
ples from one range. This is one of the 
reasons why Canadian manufacturers 
cannot get their costs down to a level of 
those in the United States. 

Names Mean Little in Carpets 

Dry Goods Review was informed that 
names such as Axminster or Wilton 
should not be given to customers as 
more or less certain guarantees of qual- 
ities in carpets and rugs. There was a 
time when Brussels carpet had the same 
standard in the mind of the general pub- 
Ik as the others still have. It was 
cheap imitation of the original weave 
which injured it. Wiltons and Axmin- 
sters are coming very fast to the same 
basis. So many manufacturers are turn- 
ing out very cheap lines, that many 

One of the new Verdure tapestries. The design is copied from a French 
tapestry and resembles it so closely that it is difficult to distinguish it 
from the original. The colors are shaded to give a rich and subdued effect. 
This piece has a black ground and the motif is worked out in mulberr •, 
greens and blues, of the very softest shades. — Shown by C eorge H. 
Hees and Son, Toronto. 

people realize the name means very lit- 
tle. Salesmen should learn something 
of the real reasons for values in these 
and sell according to the degree in which 
carpets live up to those requirements. 

Wall-to-Wall Carpets in U. S. 

The vogue has not yet reached here 
of carpeting floors instead of using 
rugs. In the large American cities, this 
has taken a firm hold. People are car- 
peting floors which they went to con- 
siderable expense a few years ago to 
have specially laid down. These people 
who are still using rugs, are asking for 
much larger ones than formerly. The 
popular size, that is the one which 80 
per cent, of the orders showed in the last 
three months, was for rugs 9 ft. x 12 ft. 
In this country, 45 per cent, of the rugs 
ordered are 6 ft. x 12 ft. 

The vogue for larger rugs and for 
wall-to-wall carpets is expected to stim- 
ulate business. It may not reach here 
to any extent before the fall but it will 

Seamless Looms Not Common 

It is estimated that there are only 
twelve seamless looms in the whole of 

Canada. They are very expensive and 
require careful handling which no doubt 
accounts for their scarcity. Manufac-" 
turens who have installed them find 
them very much to their advantage 
since they can obtain about twenty per- 
cent, more for the seamless rugs than 
they can for the seamed ones. 

One manufacturer has just finished 
an Axminsteir rug which carries the pat- 
tern all the way through. This and the 
fact that the pattern is Oriental, gives it 
more of the appearance of a Persian rug 
than anything that has been turned out 
•n Canada for some time. 

New Curtainings 

The latest fad in white curtains is 
for frills. They are seen in grenadines 
and in voiles and manufacturers are 
showing them in the piece and made up 
into curtains. Retailers claim that 
these will take with home makers, par- 
ticularly for bedroom use as they will 
obviate the necessity of heavy curtains. 
When a white curtain is hung plain, 
there is a severity which necessitates >a 
valance of cretonne and often side cur- 
(Continued on page 116) 



Dry Goods Review 

Radical Departure from Established Designs 

BeingjShown by Many of the British Houses 

Some Importations Shown in Five Colors — Wide Variety Also 
Shown by Domestic Manufacturers — A New Corduroy Drapery 
— A Woman's Dress to Match Her Cushions? — A Cretonne 


AVERY healthy condition is re- 
corded in the carpet and rug de- 
^^ partments of the Montreal whole- 
sale houses. According to a prominent 
buyer recently interviewed by Dry 
Goods Review prospects for Spring 
business are exceedingly favorable and 
augur well for both wholesale and re- 
tail trade. The mills are now sold up 
for the entire spring season, their out- 
put being contracted for in all grades 
and lines manufactured. Prices on 
British floor coverings were cut on 
January first last, about 25 per cent., 
with no set guarantee as to future 
fluctuations. Nevertheless it is consid- 
ered that the regular selling season 
will prevail undisturbed. 

The chief characteristic of British 
rugs this spring is their radical depart- 
ure from established designs and color- 
ings. It is a season of novelties which 
are offered in greater quantity than 
perhaps »eve>r before. British manu- 
facturers of high grade Wilton rugs 
have discarded the former range of 
patterns in preference for beautiful re- 
productions of Chinese effects or two- 
toned color schemes combining a solid 
ground centre of one shade, bordered 
by a lighter tone of the same, with a 
central motif of decidedly small size 
repeated on the border six times. 

Shown in Five Colors 

One Montreal warehouse is showing 
a new importation of these wonderful 
rugs in as many as five colors., The 
rugs are linen-backed, fullnpitched, and 
full 13 wire — the finest that can be 
woven. In this particular range, which 
is confined to one Montreal house, blue 
is prominently featured, and it is said 
that the demand for blue shades is to 
be particularly strong for 1922. A very 
new shade is called "Attar of Rose" 
and is a peculiarly soft, dull tone, ad- 
mirably suited to reproduce a Japanese 
design of flowing line with a border 
quaintly symbolic of a river. Little 
fish are shown swimming in water 
while foliage overhangs above. But all 
thiis^ isyjmbofljijsm li(s more apparent to 
the trained eye which can appreciate 
artistic values — to the casual observer 
this' rug is not at all out of the ordin- 
ary. These rugs come in all sizes, 
ranging from 27 inch mats up to 11 
feet 3 inches by 13 reeti, 6 inches, with 
still larger sizes available on special 

Domestic rugs likewise show a good 
variety of new designs in two toned 

effects or plain colors. The vogue for 
soft rich shades in greys, browns, 
blues or rose is decidedly stronger at 
present than for the elaborately pat- 
terned oriental designs. Several domes- 
tic rugs are showing a single motif in 
one corner only, which is rather novel 
and not at all unpleasing. The opinion 
was expressed that so long as uphols- 
tered furniture is demanded which 
shows a pronounced pattern in the fab- 
ric, rugs will tend towards quieter pat- 
terns and colors. Wall papers also are 
Showing more elaboration of late, 
which necessitates neutral effects in 
fjloor coverings. 

New Draperies of Corduroy 

Printed corduroy is the latest comer 
to the ranks of draperies and has been 
well received by the trade, according to 
.Montreal importers. It is known by 
the title of Bouvelle Velours and is of- 
fered in three different patterns which 
include the ever popular bird of para- 
dise and foliage designs. The manu- 
facturers of this novel fabric have been 
experimenting for the past three years, 
it was said, in order to bring this drap- 
ery to the highest pitch of perfection. 
No little difficulty was experienced 
in printing, especially with regard to 
the reversible corduroys, but the show- 
ing for Spring, 1922, is beyond all criti- 
cism in point of excellence. Many dif- 
ferent grounds are offered, upon which 
warm tones of tan, rose, blue and black 
are intermingled. These new fabrics 
are all 36 inches wide and are ideally 
suited for the upholstering of cushions 
and coverings of wicker furniture for 
the country house, since they are dur- 
able, washable and practical. 

Cretonnes for Summer Frocks 

Touching on the demand for ging- 
ham patterned cretonnes, the same 
wholesaler characterized it as stupen- 
dous). "We sold our first large shipment 
inside three days last month," he ex- 
plained, "and we have it on order in 
double quantity. It is impossible to 
say whether it is more wanted by house 
furnishing departments or for the dress 
trade, both are eager to get hold of it, 
and I foresee a summer when it will be 
fashionable for a woman to dress to 
match her curtains and cushions!" 
Cretonne Applique is the Latest 

The aforesaid dress cretonnes are of- 
fered in many charming colorings and 
designs which are simply irresistible to 
buyers. Smart little checks overlaid 
with prim sprigged effects, are especial- 

ly strong in two tone color combina- 
tions. Also, there is a strong demand 
for cretonnes which feature gigantic 
floral patterns, because single blossoms 
can be cut out and appliqued upon 
dresses, skirts, aprons, curtains, hats, 
bags and practically everything used in 
the home. 

It is thought that the fashion of ap- 
lying these cut-out motifs from cre- 
tonne to plain fabrics such as un- 
bleached cottons, voiles, chamibrays or 
gingham will be one of the biggest 
fads of the Summer season, and already 
considerable difficulty is being exper- 
ienced in securing sufficient supplies of 
the larger patterns suitable for this 
purpose. Mustard, pumpkin and burnt 
orange are the favorite colors for 
grounds in cretonnes and other draper- 
ies this season, and the more uncon- 
ventional and original the pattern, the 
quicker it sells. 

Similar reports on the demand for 
dress cretonnes and other fabrics were 
made to Dry Goods Review by a lead- 
ing Ottawa wholesale house this month, 
stating that buyers in Ottawa and the 
surrounding towns were confident of a 
big Summer in these novelty goods. 

This Ottawa firm has just received a 
large shipment of English casement 
cloth and art muslins, the first in three 
years, which are once more obtainable 
in the old original fast colors and artis- 
tic patterns. 

The regular trade in Ottawa and vic- 
inity is demanding more and more floor 
coverings of late, especially the new 
designs in congoleum rugs which are 
now the accepted fashion in country 
homes and others where the floors are 
not of hardwood. With the recent re- 
duction in price on these goods, of 
some 20 per cent, the prospects for 
spring business were never brighter. 



(Continued from page 115) 
tains. This frilling helps fill up the hol- 
lows of the window frame and gives a 
cozy appearance in the room. 

Lace and insertion is better than ever 
in combination with net, voile, marqui- 
sette and grenadine. One department 
store in Toronto sold thousands of these 
during January for $3.50 and $3.95 a 
pair. Many of them had drop-stitched 
motifs in the corners. It seems strange 
that these materials cannot be purchas- 
ed by the yard at a price which com- 
pares with the made-up curtains. 

Dry Ooods Review 




We have received from Nottinglmm some very fine ally made so that lengths of so many panels can be cut 
samples of lace curtains 'specially made for the Canadian off to fit any sized window. 


Made on the Fi'et ground, a very popular weave, they 
range from gauges of 8 to 16 points, a really fine gauge 
for a Lace Curtain. 

The sectional pa el is obtaining enormous popularity 
owing to the fact that it is a yardage line which is speci- 

The three novelty single border Filet curtains which are 
ultra-fashionable in Car.ada just now are made with hem- 
med edges and little lace edgings. 

These goods are manufactured by Dobsons and M. 
Browne and Co., Ltd., of Nottingham, England. 



Dry Goods Review 


Now showing in our new range of 
Christmas Handkerchiefs — a most var- 
ied and complete assortment, embrac- 
ing many new styles and creations that 
will prove top-notch sellers for your 
next Christmas business: 

or three in a box — many styles — full range of prices, and 
attractive holiday boxes. 

SPECIAL ASSORTED LO TS— These have met with 
a very special success in past Seasons. See the New Num- 
bers at the New Prices. 

Good range of plain and H. S. Lawn and Linen Hand- 
kerchiefs, Children's Novelty Handkerchiefs, and Men's 
Handkerchiefs in White H. S. Lawn or Linen, and Colored 

Our Handkerchiefs are all 1922 STYLES. It will pay you to 
see these when our Salesman calls. 

House Furnishing Department 

We have complete stocks of Nets — Madras 
— Scrims and Marquisettes — Sateens-Cre- 
tonnes and Shadow Cloths. Samples now in 
our travellers' hands. 


Weekday Cross 

Nottingham, England 

74 York Street 



Dri/ Goods Review 










\s .-■■ 


consists of Lace Curtains, Cream and Colored Scotch 
Madras, Curtain Nets, Sectional Panels, Lace Bed 
Spreads (as illustrated), Brise Bise, Vitrage, Poplin 
Repps, Fast Dyed Casement Cloth, Hand-Blocked 
Printed Cretonnes. 

We have on hand in our warehouse at 55 Bay 
Street, Toronto, ready for immediate shipment, the 
most complete lines of NEW goods in Canada to-day 
— direct from our mills at Darvel, Scotland. All prices 
are at to-day's mill quotations. 

Give us a call — or write us. We render a prompt 
service on all orders, large or small. 

Alexander Jamieson & Co. 

(Wholesale Only) 

55 Bay Street, TORONTO 

Telephone : Adelaide 861 


[T' v ^^ ~> r s '■' 









Dry Goods Review 

Some Late Models in Ready to Wear 

Popular Bramley Frock for Girls in Teens — Three Piece Golf 
Suit in Knitted Jersey Cloth — Sport and Box Suits — Fabrics in 
Dresses Show Marked Difference From Last Year — Tailored Ef- 
fects in BlouseS'in Demand 

THE girl who is in her teens can- 
not wear anything more charming 
and youthful than the ever popu- 
lar Bramley frock. Canadian manufac- 
turers have designed a new version for 
Spring which is decidedly more becom- 
ing than last Fall's style. This model, 
developed in knitted fabric in a wide 
range of colors, has a skirt closely knife 
pleated all round, set on a slip of batiste. 
Over this is worn a pullover blouse on 
the middy type, that is to say, instead 
of the lower edge hanging loose under a 
belt as was the fashion before, this full- 
ness is now shirred into a deep band 
which encircles the hips, in which elastic 
is run. Thus the wasit and hip line is 
smooth, slender, and stays down all the 
time. Even figures wbich are somewhat 
plump can wear the new Bramley frojk 
with good effect. The collars and cuffs 
are of white or color contrast and may 
be either of jersey or kid, piped with 
black. Heather mixtures are in great 
demand for these frocks, particularly in 
the lovat shades. 

The three-piece golf suit again crops 
up in knitted jersey cloth of quite un- 
usual effectiveness. Seen this month in 
a Montreal show room, one such suit was 

developed in tan tweed jersey showing 
a fleck of blue and red. The skirt was 
smartly plain, buttoned from waist to 
hem, while the knickers were of the 
usual style with buttons set close to- 
gether on each side closing. Slashed 
pockets were set in, on the slant, on 
both skirt and knickers. The coat was 
tailored, with notched collar, patch 
pockets and inverted pleats designed on 
the "swivel" type favoured by men's 
sports clothes. Pussy willow silk lined 
the coat throughout. 

Sport Suits 

Another typical spring sports suit was 
of emerald green cassimere cloth which 
closely resembles flannel. This was se- 
verely plain in type, being relieved mere- 
ly by black bone buttons of the 4 hole 
variety. Twilled homespun suits are 
proving to be enormously popular, it is 
said, in Montreal. The twilled effect 
however is not any more in demand than 
the staple weaves, for the latter, espe- 
cially that which reproduces the uneven 
threads of the real Habitant homespun, 
made on hand-looms, are selling better 
than ever before. 

A composite costume, which might 'be 
called a sports outfit, for want of a bet- 





This model which comprises 
coat, knickers and skirt is 
made of soft tan knitted 
cloth flecked in red and blue 
tweed effects. The new swiv- 
el pleats give plenty of free- 
dom for golfing or riding and 
the patch pockets are both 
smart and useful. — COSTUME 
Developed in Hawthorne 
Fabric a'nd Shown by Cour- 
tesy of the Hawthorne 
Mills of Carleton Place, 

ter term, was noticed in a show room in 
Montreal. This was composed of a long 
smock of rose homespun worn over 
knickers of the same. The smock was 
belted with a narrow white belt, and 
cuffs and collar were of unbleached lin- 
en piped in black. A flowing Windsor 
tie finshed the throat. 

In the same collection also was noticed 
a number of plain tailored homespun 
suits, the coats of which featured three 
inverted box pleats in the back. The 
proportion of homespun suits shown, 
slightly outnumbered those of jersey, 
which, however, are more tailored in 
style than they were last year. Heather 
cloths were represented more than the 
plain kinds. 

The Box Suit 

Tricotine box suits of dressy appear- 
ance are quite .as. much in demand as 
was first expected. The newest type 
seen this month featured a wide crush- 
ed sash of pearl grey crepe de chine 

Dry Goods Review 



about the skirt, which ended in two deep 
tassels. Wide black silk military braid 
was used to trim the coat, running up 
and down vertically over each shoulder, 
and again down the sleeves. The coat 
of another suit of a cool sand shade of 
tricotine had a vestee of black silk in- 
set in the opening which showed be- 
neath a little turn-down collar, gradu- 
ally widening where the coat flared at 
the waist. 

Separate skirts showed such variety 
of design, color and style that it is not 
possible to say as yet which models are 
to prove most popular for late Spring 
wear. Much is said of a novel home- 
spun model which is wrapped about the 
figure instead of being closed by a 
stitched seam. A wide stitched fold of 
the fabric comes in the back. The waist 
line is fitted with elastic in order that it 
may be used by various sizes. 


While there is not much change in the 
lines of the frocks for formal wear now 
being shown for Easter and Spring wear, 
the fabrics and colors are distinctly dif- 
ferent from last season's line-up. The 
great bulk of the trade done appears to 
be on colorful effects and not a few en- 
tirely scarlet models or models of jade 
green and white, etc, are selling. 

Crepe-Knit cloth seems to have taken 
Canada by storm insofar as frocks are 
concerned, and innumerable smart but 
simple dresses featuring the Jenny neck, 
lowered waist line and peasant sleeve are 
shown. Such contrasts of color as ger- 
anium red with oyster grey, rust with 
peacock blue, fuchsia and cocoa brown, 
jade and black, pumpkin and mag-pie 
combinations, etc, are not in the least 

The aeroplane frock, designed in a 
straight line from neck to hem with un- 
usual sleeve effects, and the handker- 
chief sleeve- which can be unfastened to 
fall free in mandarin style are some of 
the novel features of frocks offered by 
Montreal houses. Most of the crepe- 
knit frocks are simple in design as be- 
fits the character of the fabric, and it is 
rumored that smart women are not par- 
tial to over elaboration this season, in 
the matter of trimming. Lattice-work 
of the fabric composes a clever banding 
to edge necks or sleeves, showing open- 
work of course, and thus imparting an 
air of daintiness to the otherwise severe 
silhouette. Panels are still featured and 
tunic effects which begin below the low- 
ered sash about the hips. 

Canton crepe in a heavy rich quality 
is effectively used in a striking black 
gown heavily beaded all over with 
wooden beads in several colors. The de- 
sign carried out is one of solid motifs in 
floral pattern. Although this type of 
trimming is bizarre and somewhat heavy, 
it is undoubtedly unusual and artistic. 

Taffeta reappears in delicate shades in 
models designed to suit the young girl. 
Quaint bouffant styles are prominent ?.s 
befits the crispness of this material. A 
frock of fuchsia pink taffeta had its el- 
bow sleeves and round neck edgei with 
narrow black lace, while a huge black 

velvet flower was crushed at the waist 
line to lie flatly at one side. 

Another bouffant gown of chocolate 
brown taffeta had the new full sleeves 
which ended just below the elbow. Be- 
low these sleeves appeared puffs of bon- 
fire tinted georgette, tied in at the 

A straight tunic frock of henna can- 
ton crepe was draped over the biscuit 
tinted crepe de chine, falling in flat box 
pleats both front and back, and showing 
the lighter shade combined with the 
darker, side by side. 

Bordered Roshanara crepe in a very 
heavy quality was effectively developed 
in tobacco brown, the banding being in 
paisley tones ranging from dull blue to 
cream. Chain girdles or heavily tassell- 
ed draped effects seemed to be most 
wanted, according to the designers, as 
finishes upon spring frocks. 
Designers of blouses are feeling very 
much encouraged over the outlook for 
spring. Tailored effects hold the su- 
preme place, both in lines known as tail- 
ormade and in so called costume offer- 
ings. There is no radically abrupt 
change from last year's styles but the 
insistent demand for types suitable to 
wear with knicker suits or other sports 
outfits of distinctive character has had 
the effect of giving a really satisfactory 
impetus to the trade. 

The simply cut blouse will probably 
be the choice of the smart woman, no 
matter whether it be of dimity, crepe de 
chine, voile or knitted fabric. Insofar 
as the choice of laces for trimming is 
concerned, an authority states that Irish 
edges, filets and the better grade vals 
are all certain of popularity for 1922. 
Applique work is spoken of as being cer- 
tain to "take hold" and embroideries 
will be used on crepe de chine blouses 
which are inspired by peasant origin. 
Cross stitchings and smockings are ex- 
pected to take well here in Canada on 
these types. Generally speaking the 
smartest blouses will feature self-trim- 
ming or the merest touch of some vivid 
contrast. Owing to the fad for brocad 
ed crepe skirts for next summer it is 
felt that there will be a sudden call for 
fine quality crepe de chine or georgette 
blouses in all white to wear under the 
new style of sweaters in bright colors. 
With millinery and sweaters favoring 
bright shades, skirts and blouses must 
of necessity remain white. Buyers are 
paying more attention to stout sizes 
than ever before, it was said, and it 
should no longer be necessary for the 
stout figure to have clothes made to or- 
der in order to look well. The present 
simple styles are both becoming and 
slenderizing to heavy figures. 


A. C. Beaton, North Sydney, N. S. 

Mr. A. C. Beaton, of North Sydney, N.S., 
has recently installed new silent salesmen 
of the "Republic" design in rich % cut 
Oak. "Republic" silent salesmen are a 
product of Kent-McClain Limited (Toron- 
to Show Case Company). 

Still reappears in new variations; this 
one is of scarlet jersey with the new 
square front opening. It is worn over a 
knitted blouse of chiffon mohair wool, 
piped in black. This blouse may be worn 
over a separate skirt as it is fitted with 
a becoming band at the waist line. — 
Shown by Courtesy of the Knit to 
Fit Company of Montreal. 


Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., of Orange, 
N.J., are opening this month a new fac- 
tory for the manufacturing of bias tapes. 
On account of the clean and orderly pro- 
cess of manufacturing this article, their 
new factory is in a very restricted dis- 
trict where no other factories are locat- 
ed. In a statement with regard to the 
opening of this new factory, Mr. Wright 
says that the increased demand for this 
article is due to the fact that women are 
doing more home sewing than they have 
ever done before. 

The Gardner Fair store, of Walker- 
ville, has sold out its premises to a pur- 
chaser whose name is at present with- 
held, for $50,000. 


McDermott & Suilivan. Cobalt, Ontario. 

Messrs. McDermott & Sullivan, of Cobalt, 
Ontario, have recently added to their dis- 
play facilities by the installation of new 
silent salesmen. They have selected the 
"Imperial" case in V4 cut Oak as being 
best suited for their needs. The "Im- 
ner ; al" silent salesmen are built by Kent- 
McClain Limited, (Toronto Show Case 



Dry Goods Review 

Links Up Opening 
With Shoe Store 

Linking up with another local store 
was responsible for one of the best 
ready-to-wear openings, the Turnbull 
store, Peterborough, Ont., has ever had. 
A shoe merchant who was planning to 
sell natural tread shoes, needed models to 
wear his shoes and garments to attract 
attention to his display. The J. C. Turn- 
bull Company, had just at that time re- 
ceived a splendid line of afternoon and 
evening dresses for their fall showing. 
Arrangement was made between the two 
stores, by which the Grand Opera house 
was taken over for the evening of Thurs- 
day, October 27. Only natural tread 
shoes were worn by the models. The ob- 
ject was to show how these shoes may 
be worn with any type of dress, even 
for evening wear. 

All the garments displayed by the 
Turnbull Company at this fashion par- 
ade were taken from the regular stock, 
so that every woman who saw them kn ■»• 
that they could be purchased at the 
store. The advertising manager, who 
was responsible for the show, declares 
that it is never advisable to have gar- 
ments brought 'in for an occasion such 
as this and obtainable only on special 
order from the maker. Customers lose 
faith in a store if this method is used, 
because they always dread ordering 
clothes which are promised to be exact- 
ly like something they have seen. More- 
over, there is no prestige gained by 
showing gowns which are not actually 
carried. This store advertised in the 
daily papers that all the garments were 
bought for women in Peterborough, so 
that no one had the impression that they 
were models suited to ultra-fashionable 
New York. Accessories were also includ- 
ed in the showing, including millinery, 
dresses, suits, coats, skirts, blouses, 
hosiery, and gloves. 

House Filled 

It is estimated that five hundred 
people were turned away from the 
Fashion parade. It is difficult to say 
Which part of the event was mostly re- 
sponsible for the great success that 
•night and for weeks later. No doubt the 
lecturer who explained the advantages 
of natural tread shoes and who told his 
story very well, brought in his wake the 
great vogue for these shoes which took 
Peterborough by storm. It is estimated 
that sixty per cent, of the best-dressed 
women in that city are now wearing 
them. It was not the shoes but the 
fashion parade however, which first at- 
tracted them. Displays outside the store 
were unusual in that city and the nov- 
elty of the thing had its effect also. 

The admission was of course free but 
there was a voluntary collection taken 
up by workers for the Children's Aid 
Society and the local orphanage. The 
audience was very ready to give to these 
charities and the charities in turn, were 
most grateful to the stores, for the op- 
portunity given them to collect. 

The Turnbull firm believes that the in- 
terest aroused not only in the garments 
shown but in their merchandise in gener- 
al, more than repaid them for the time 
and money expended in the style show. 


New York Believes in A'l Suit Types 

Although New York stores are also 
talking and featuring tweeds and the 
so-called sports type of apparel for 
spring and resorc wear ati the present 
time, together with devoting window 
display space and attention toward their 
final clearance sales, buyers agree that 
the demand for tailored and semi-dress 
suits just as soon as they are shown will 
be on a par with that for the other type. 

"No matter what the material, tweed, 
trelaine, kasha, spongeen, or home- 
spun," one buyer remarked, "if the gar- 
ment is in a high or isports shade, it is 
not the type of suit a business woman 
can wear on an informal occasion at 
night without making a change. For 
this reason, I believe that with the 
vogue for suits coming back, all types 
of suits will sell well at the right time," 
she added. 

There are other buyers also who be- 
lieve that the time has come when girls 
and women will want more than one 
kind of suit in their wardrobe, espec- 
ially with the attractive treatments of 
three-piece costumes being offered in 
combinations of Canton crepe and the 
varied new twill cloths. 

Charles G. David & Co., Inc., New 
York, have removed to .he Victoria 
r..; fi ; n- 2T1 Fifth Avenue, Room 1303, 
New York. They are now in possession of 
more commodious quarters for the dis- 
play of dress goods, woollens and worst- 

Runciman's of Annapolis Royal, N. S., 
are celebrating their hundredth anniver- 
sary by the opening of a new store on 
the corner of S\ George and St. An- 
thony streets. The late George Runci- 
man was the founder of this popular 
dry goods house. 

J. D. Flavelle of the firm of Dundas 
& Flavelle, Lindsay, Ont., was presented 
with a lovine evn bv the curlers of 
Pe'erboro. Mr. Flavelle is the veter- 
curler of Lindsay, this' being the fiftieth 
year in which he has been playing the 

The Canadian Fur Auction Sales 
Company, Limited, announces that the 
1922 spring sale will be held in Mon- 
treal, Que., on May 9, 1922, and follow, 
ing days. 

The newest version of the Spriyig sui 
should be of navy blue tricotine embroid 
ered and braided in black silk. This smar 
costume comprises three pieces, namely 
coat, skirt and sleeveless guimpe of olive 
green printed chiffon ivith black ovzr 
pattern. A wide sash is tied loosely a 
the left side. The hat is of navy blue 
Italian hemp trimmed with innumerable 
little cones of corded ribbon round the 
brim, and a tin quill thrtist through the 
side. — Costume by Courtesy of the 
National Garment Company of Mon 
treal. Hat by Courtesy of Debenhams 
Limited, Montreal. 

Dry Goads Review 



New Styles In 

Outer Garments 

Capes Take Conspicuous Place — Black 
Wraps for Conservative Models 

Between the sports suit and the suit 
for street and more dressy wear, there 
lies but uncertain distinction, particular- 
ly when the tendency is to attach the 
name of "sports" to any kind of cos- 
tume developed on fairly simple lines in 
bright colors, provided only that it is not 
an evening type. 

It has become a problem this season to 
decide just where the line should be 
drawn in this connection, for fashion 
nowadays decrees that informal dress is 
permissible at times when it would have 
been decidedly out of place a year or so 


Tweeds stand on the cross-roads be- 
tween sports and street types, and cos- 
tumes of silk eponge and such lightweight 
fabrics are undecided as to whether they 
shall appear as sports or afternoon 
styles. Knitted garments have been uni- 
versally accepted as a distinct sports 
group, and whether they are of the 
plainest wool in neutral shades, or heavi- 
ly embroidered in elaborate patterns and 
rich colors, they are still indisputably 
sports clothes. 

Capes Conspicuous 

Capes have now taken a conspicuous 
place in sports showings and even the 
trained eye finds it hard to detect where 
capes begin and coats leave off. Sleeves 
in many new coats are so cleverly ar- 
ranged that by merely unfastening a few 
fancy buttons an effective panel falls 
free over the slit of the armhole. Thus 
the coat which is effective for afternoon 
wear becomes a wrap of distinctive 
character for evening requirements. 
Such capes as these are developed in the 
new supple pile fabrics, such as "Sapho." 
While navy blue is most generally fav- 
oured by the retail trade, there are a 
number of novelty color combinations 
which find ready buyers. Steel grey and 
blue are often seen in wraps, the lining 
being often of grey crepe de chine, which 
by the way, is the lining par excellence 
this season. Rust colored Velette lined 
throughout with peacock blue formed 
the basis of another loose cape-coat 
which has slits for armholes, over which 
extension wings can b e caught together 
by means of an oxidised silver chain. 
Chocolate Normandy cloth is effective- 
ly combined with apricot velours on an- 
other, with wool chain stitching used in 
touches here and there. Navy blue pile 
velours formed the body of another cape 
coat which was smartly relieved by 
bandings or scarlet duvet de laine 
strapped in silver braid. 

Conservative Models 

In the more conservative models, black 
wraps were conspicuous, one of which, a 
long clinging model of crepe-knit fabric 
was trimmed by a deep fringe of black 

Tf.nnhjxnara Crepe in plain grounds bordered in rich oriental patterns i$ 
decidedly new for Spring frocks. This model is wearing a simple frock 
entirely untrimmed save by the border of the material. Note the nev> sleeve 
and uneven hem line. Roshayiara Crepe comes in a ivide range of colors in- 
cluding staple and pastel shades. — Shown by Courtesy of Greenshields 

of Montreal. 

silk extending from the shoulder line to 
the knees. Heavy charmeuse satin, al- 
so of black, lined this garment through- 

Another wrap designed on loose lines, 
yet conserving the coat outline, was of 
navy blue twilled pile fabric, lined 
throughout with rust colored crepe which 
showed sufficiently to lend distinction to 
an otherwise simple effect. A tubular 
collar was a new point noticed. 

Buyers are interested mainly in coats 
of widely different character, it was said, 
realizing that women will not buy more 
than one coat in a season if the design 
is suitable for an all-purpose garment. 
Thus wraps and coats this spring are 
shown in both severely tailored or sports 
types and in the category above describ- 
ed, in which handsome fabrics, superb 
color contrasts, and original designs are 



Dry Goods Review 

Hargrave Garments for Spring are 
now receiving their first showing. 
You will be greatly surprised with 
the refreshing smartness and in- 
dividual character of the models. 
Important, too, is the fact that 
Hargrave Garments are priced in a 
manner to insure your approval and 
win the patronage of the younger 
set to your store. 

Misses' and Children's styles, at- 
tractive but not extreme, moderate- 
ly priced to ensure quick selling. 

Hargrave Dress Company 

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto 

REPRESENTATIVES: Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell. Western and Southern Ontario, 
R. Kennedy. Toronto, R. 0. Hargrave. Western Canada, J. Howard. Mari- 
time Provinces, W. A. Tall mire. Montreal and Quebec, J. A. Michaud. 

The McElroy Mfg. Co., yd. 


Fit, Cut, Style, 

Hang and Finish. 
47 Simcoe St. - Toronto 





Dry Good* 

Committioncrt and Importer* 

52 Victoria Square MONTREAL 


Specialists in Stamped and Made-up 
Ladies' Undergarments, Infants' & Children's Dresses 
49-53 East 21st Street New York City 

No. 900 — Nainsook Gown. Made up in 

three designs, a doz $6.50 

64-60 count, ta\\ length, full width, two- 
inch hem Sizes 15, 16, 17, 18. 

No. 145-146-147— Short Baby Dress, a 

doz $5.50 — Gross $60.00 

No. 0145-0146-0147— Long Infants Dress, 
a doz $6.00 — Gross . . . $66.00 

Stamped Three Designs. Three Shaped 

Yokes. Set-in Sleeves. 

Terms 3% 10 Day* 


230 McGill St., Montreal 

Royal Garter Company 

Garters and Armbands 

The American Jewelry Co. 

Jewelry for the Smallware and Notion Trade 

The National Leather Goods Co. 

Ladies' Handbags. Men's Leather Purses, Noveltir 

Complete Lines at Keen Values in 






Miller Men's Wear Limited 

Miller Bldf. 

44-48 York St., - TORONTO 

"Everything in Men'* Furniihingt" 

Washable Clothing 








The Miller Mfg. Co., Limited 

44-46 York Street, - TORONTO 

The Oldest and Largest Specialty 

Clothing Bouse in Canada. 

Dry Goods Revieu 



Founded on style, quality and sin- 
cerity, ours is a reputation, to sus- 
tain which, we must achieve much. 

Our early Spring collection is now 
being shown by our representatives 
on the road and also in our show- 

Correspondence is also invited from 
those stores catering to an exacting 
clientele interested in striking a new 
note in the selling of exclusive 
misses' apparel. 


The Counter Costume Co., Ltd. 

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto 

REPRESENTATIVES: Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell. Western and Southern Ontario, 
R. Kennedy. Toronto, R. O. Hargrave. Western Canada, J. Howard. Mari- 
time Provinces, W. A. Tall mire. Montreal and Quebec, J. A. Michaud. 


Are You Able to Turn 

Your Spare Hours 

Into Dollars ? 

If not — and you are really trying to cash in 
on the spare moments you have during the 
day or after working hours — if you have 
made up your mind to take hold of some 
proposition and sail right in and actually 
increase your monthly income without hin- 
dering your regular work — surely you will 
want to know about MACLEAN'S plan for 
making each spare moment count. And 
even if you are already making money 
during your spare time — still you can add 
to your income with very little additional 
efforts. For you can have full particulars 
of MACLEAN'S plan absolutely free. If 
you will merely drop us a card we will send 
you the complete details of this plan. It 
will cost you nothing to find out exactly 
how others with spare time have materially 
increased their monthly earnings. For full 
information or the agency in your locality, 
write and right now, 

Dept. WB 


143-153 University Ave., Toronto. 


Let our travellers show you our line. 
You'll be surprised 


We Manufacture 

Gingham Street, Porch and Apron 
Dresses, Girls' Dresses from 3 to 14, 
from print and gingham. Also print 
house and apron dresses. 

Rompers, Creepers, etc. 


513-515 College St., Toronto 


Art Needlework and Fancy Goods 

"Peri-Lusta" "Crystal" 

Mercerized Cottons Artificial Silk 

Embroidery Materials 

Fancy Linens and Piece Goods 


Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson 

932-938 Broadway New York Cor. 22nd St. 

Canadian Showroom and Factory : 

Bay and Wellington Sts., - Toronto, Canada 



Dry Goods Review 

Ontario Dry Goods Merchants Hold Their 

Second Annual Convention at Toronto 

Held In Conjunction With Textile Products Show and Sister Con- 
ventions — Dr. McMillan Outlines The Award of Minimum Wage 
Beard and Says No Attempt Made To Fix Wages But To Establish 
Lines Below Which They Must Not Fall — Address by Sir James 
Woods — Matter of Trade Discounts 

WITH a fair representation of out- 
of-town merchants and a large 
number from Toronto, the sec- 
ond annual convention of the Dry 
Goods section of the Ontario Retail 
Merchants Association was held in the 
King Edward Hotel, Toronto, on Febru- 
ary 13th. This convention was held in 
conjunction with the Textile Products 
Exhibition in which some eighty-five 
manufacturers participated, and with 
sister conventions which were held all 
during that week. The president, C. 
Umphries of Petrolia, was unable to be 
present through illness. J. P. Tweddell, 
president of the Toronto branch of the 
R.M.A., presided over the convention. 

Minimum Wage Board Findings 

The first address of the afternoon was 
given by Dr. J. W. McMillan, chairman 
of the Minimum Wage Board. He ex- 
plained the recent award of the Board 
with regard to the minimum wages to 
be paid to female help in retail stores 
in Ontario. At the outset he wished it 
to be understood, he said, that the Mini- 
mum Wage Board did not make any at- 
tempt to fix wages; it merely drew the 
line below which wages must not fall 
and this line was determined by the cost 
of living at the time of the judgment. 
The minds of the people of Ontario had 
accepted the social principle that the 
same right of living that is applied to 
alms houses, houses of Industry and 
Homes for Incurables should also apply 
to the women and girls employed in in- 
dustrial concerns. Dr. McMillan stated 
that in trying to bring about better con- 
ditions amongst the female help in re- 
tail and industrial concerns, the Board 
had had both the sympathy and co-opera- 
tion of the employers throughout the 
province. Any decent employer wanted 
to pay his female help a living wage. 

The Chairman was emphatic in his 
statement that the award of the Board 
or the intent of the Board was not to 
interfere with promotion at all, with 
bonuses or any other internal economy 
of an organization. They were not try- 
ing to interfere with the war of prizes 
that was part of the great game of com- 
petition, but with the war of sustenance. 
The only thing that they would inter- 
fere with would be the employer who 
wanted to do this unsocial thing — make 
his help work for a wage that was not 
a fair living wage. He stated that the 
awards made in the cases of Toronto 
Hamilton, London, and Ottawa were as 
much the awards of the merchants of 
those cities as the Beard itself. 

"Facts vs. Faith" 

Sir James Woods, president of the 
Gordon McKay Co. Ltd., of Toronto, was 
the speaker of the afternoon session, his 
subject being "Facts vs. Faith." His 
definition of the true optimist was the 
man with cheerful yesterdays and con- 
fident to-morrows. While he believed 
there were innumerable things to justi- 
fy our faith in the future of this* coun- 
try he warned against an optimism that 
did not have a great deal to justify it- 
self, or that was temporary and ficti- 
tious. He instanced the national debt 
of Canada which in 1914 was 40 millions 
and was now 130 millions. He referred 
to the orgy of money that had been 
spent in this country on railroads and 
quoted the general manager of the Bank 
of Montreal as saying "you could create 
prosperity on the desert of Sahara if 
you spent as much money there as we 
are spending in Canada." 

After referring to the amount of im- 
ports from the United States as. show- 
ing our spending in that country much 
greater than in the United Kingdom, Sir 
James made an appeal for Made-in-Can- 
ada buying and selling. If that were 
impossible, the United Kingdom should 
be our second customer, not the United 

The solution of the present difficulty, 
said Sir James was work, hard work, 
honest work, intelligent work. It would 
do no good that half the people worked 
at a high wage; until employment was 
general we would not see any return 
to prosperity that came near the pre-war 

World Willing to Work 

"I have a list in my hand," said Sir 
James, "of the names of 25 Toronto 
wholesale dry goods houses that failed 
during the period 1880-1905. We can- 
not equal that nowadays. The Wiorld is 
full of people willing to work; the world 
is full of wonderful resources. Why, 
then, the unemployment? Why the de- 
pression and stagnation of trade? Not 
solely, of course, but largely, because 
of lack ,of faith. By faith we won the 
war and kept up production and creat- 
ed prosperity and got up such an im- 
petus that things kept booming for 
two years after the war ended. Then 
we became timid, lost our nerve, lost 
our faith; people stopped buying, 
wheels ceased moving and general un- 
employment followed." 

Then Sir James took a crack at the 
idle rich. "These are, of course," said 
he, "too many drones. The rich, par- 

ticularly, do not work hard enough. Too 
many motors, too much golf, too much 
pleasure, and until this is changed there 
is no use criticizing the working man 
for not giving a fair day's work for a 
fair day's pay. 

"We are at a stage when it is the 
plain duty of every trader and manufac- 
turer to operate wisely and economical: 
and be satisfied with a reasonable pro- 
fit," declared Sir James, advocating such 
a course for helping reduce the cost of 
living and getting back to bedrock busi- 
ness conditions. "Character, not com- 
merce, is the fundamental principle in- 

R. Smallpiece 
R. Smallpiece, of the W. R. Brock Co., 
Ltd., of Toronto, gave a brief talk, sug- 
gesting several points that would be use- 
ful to the retail merchants in conducting 
their business, and to salespersons be- 
hind the counter. Industry, intelligence, 
integrity — these were three words he 
emphasized as ones that might well be 
the guiding principles of the retail mer- 
chants or the salesperson. The day of 
small things should not be despised; it 
was frequently the most modest people 
who made big successes in life and Mr. 
Smallpiece gave some illustrations to his 
point. He referred to the E. & S. Cur- 
rie Co., Ltd., of Toronto, which, he said, 
had been started by Edward Currie 
years ago in a cellar. Mr. Currie took 
his noon hours to sell the ties he made 
in this cellar; to-day their organization 
was a credit to the city. If people would 
put their whole heart and energy into 
their work, it would be successful. Al- 
ways be courteous and obliging and, 
when successful, don't get a swelled 
head, was the advice of Mr. Smallpiece. 
He also stressed the desirability of team 
work in any sales' organization. 

Fixing Re-sale Price 

Some discussion arose over the prac- 
tice of manufacturers in fixing the re- 
sale price of merchandise to the retailer 
wihout considering the overhead of the 
retailer. The case of silk thread was 
cited and one retailer stated that this 
had lately been fixed at 8 cents, while 
the merchant had to pay 6Y2 cents for 
it. This with an overhead of 24 or 
25 per cent, made it necessary for the 
retailer to sell at an actual loss. 


Out of this matter arose another 
which was the subject of a strong reso- 
lution moved by Mr. Anderson, of St. 
(Continued on next page) 

Dry Goods Review) 




House Furnishing Men Have Big 
Opportunity for Business 

"This is the biggest house-building 
year in Canada," stated Rotarian A. R. 
Whittemore, in speaking to the Rotary 
Club, Toronto. "Fourteen thousand 
houses have been built so far this year 
and 11,000 last year, but with 70,000 
marriages and the coming of 117,000 
immigrants, who will themselves require 
at least 20,000 houses, Canada is short 
165,000 homes. In a growing country a 
corresponding growth of building is re- 
quired. At the present time no industry 
is so well fortified. And its effect on un- 
employment is an important one, be- 
cause for every 200 men set to work on 
a building 500 are employed in the allied 

Mr. Whittemore, in touching on the 
point as to whether low cost of labor 
decreased the amount of building, in- 
stanced the Province of Quebec, and stat- 
ed that the building increase there last 
year was 17 per cent, and the cost of 
labor 21 per cent, less than in Ontario, 


For formal occasions this season may be 
developed in navy blue tricotine with 
elaborate trimming of black silk fiinge. 
A roll collar of oriental brocade relieve-; 
the severity of the neckline. — Wrap by 
Courtesy of the National Garment 
Company of Montreal. 

Buyers' Guide 

About twenty million pounds is 
a conservative estimate of Cana- 
da's yearly wool production. The 
estimated value of the sheep in 
this country in 1920 was $37,263,- 
000. A new Canadian industry 
will be begun in June when a 
wool combing plant will be com- 
pleted. The machinery for it is 
being imported from Bradford, 
Eng., the world centre for the 
combing industry. 

Ralph Grossman, a Canadian 
from Montreal, dropped a bomb 
into the recent convention of the 
International Association of Cloth- 
ing Designers by introducing a 
novelty called the "Sweep Pleat" 
coat. Here is how one New York 
paper describes the innovation in 
masculine attire: 

"The 'Sweep Pleat' is a sport- 
coat basically, but it is more than 
that, much more, and then some, 
consisting of pleats under the 
arms, which allow a luxuriously 
easy swing of the arm to the golf- 
er, the cop, or the rider. The 
pleats moreover, look like an ac- 
cordion of such modest dimen- 
sions, and for so brief a flashing 
moment as the arm is swung, that 
they may, with fairish accuracy be 
called 'invisible.' It is these arm- 
pit insertions which name the nov- 
el coat the 'sweep pleat.' " 

The introduction of this garment 
at the Designers' Convention, by 
Mr. Grossman occasioned the only 
excitement of the meeting. "A 
dent as deep as the Sweep Pleat's 
armpits was put in the con- 
vention audience by the Cana- 
dian brother's invention," one ac- 
count declares. "The Sweep Pleat 
was donned by a dozen volunteer 
living 'forms' and the air of the 
blue room of the McAlpine hotel 
punctured with picturesque gest- 
ures symbolizing golf, the police 
force in action, and Tod Sloan at 
the Derby. So great was the de- 
mand for the tests of the Sweep 
Pleat that the audience had to be 
called to order and finally quiet 
was restored." 

The homespun bag, called also 
the 'habitant,' the 'Murray Bay' and 
the 'French-Canadian' bag, was or- 
iginated in Charlotte County, New 
Brunswick, by Charlotte County 
Cottage Craft and not by women 
of Quebec as is popularly suppos- 
ed. Miss Grace Helen Mowat is 
president of this association. 

More than 75 distinct varieties 
of furs were contained in the col- 
lection sold in New York on Feb- 
ruary 6. Fur men declared that 
the Canadian skins shown were 
notable for their quality, the mar- 
tens receiving particular mention. 

compared with a 9 per cent, decrease in 
building in this Province. 

Building costs reached their peak in 
May, 1920, when the increase was 184 
per cent, over 1913. In October, 1921, 
the cost was only 98 per cent, over 1913, 
or 47 per cent, lower than the peak. 


(Continued from page 126) 

Thomas and seconded by Mr. Fair of 
Brockville. It was the question of dis- 
counts and it was claimed by merchants 
that the large mail-order house and de- 
partment stores were given larger dis- 
counts than the smaller ones which en- 
abled them to under-sell the merchant 
right in his own town or city. A reso- 
lution was passed calling the attention 
of the Dominion Board at Ottawa to this 
matter and asking them to bring it to 
the attention of the manufacturers to 
see if some remedy could be made. 

Full Report Next Issue 

More with regard to this convention 
and the Textile Exhibit will be given in 
the next issue of Dry Goods Review. 

News of the Trade 

John Ogilvy, one of the outstanding 
figures in trade in Montreal, celebrated 
his 97th birthday on January 18. 

Hon. Geo. E. Amyot, the new presi- 
dent of the Banque National?, is pre- 
sident of the Dominion Corset Co. 

Of the two new directors for the Stan- 
dard Bank of Canada, appointed recent- 
ly, one is A. R. Auld, managing direc- 
tor of Nisbet & Auld, Limited, Toronto. 

Mr. L. Blumberg now heads the Silk 
fabric department of Belding-GortL 
celli, Limited, at their Montreal Branch. 
The main feature of this change is the 
added faciility for taking care of out- 
of-town buyers. 

On Friday evening, February 3, De- 
laney's store, Belleville, Ont., was tihe 
scene of a most enjoyable dinner and 
dance given by Mr. and Mrs. Delaney. 
Dancing and select entertainment fol- 
lowed the dinner, and guests pronounced 
it the "best ever." 

Messrs. Woodhouse and Co., whose 
head office is in London, Eng., and who 
have stores in various parts of the 
world, including the city of Montreal, 
have opened up for business on Yonge 
St., Toronto. The carpets, rugs and 
linoleums they carry come direct from 
the British Isles but the furniture is 

The dry goods firm of Claxton and 
Co., has purchased the Simpson house 
property in Lindsay, Ont., and intends to 
fit it up into an up Ito-date store. Ow- 
ing to the steady growth of business, 
conditions are too congested in the pres- 
ent site. The manager promises that 
the new store will be one of the finest 
of its kind in the country. 



Dry Goods Review 

ROBERT iyiriwte(CW'SS.ex\%X 


With Hardaker's 



It makes them more attractive. 
Economical, Fast, Practical, Neat. 


45 St. Alexander St. MONTREAL 

Canadian Linoleums 
& Oilcloths, Limited 

Cornwall, Ont. 

SPRING, 1922 

New range of patterns 

now ready for delivery. 
Send for small sample 
book and price list. 




All mail orders carefully attended to 
Write for samples and quotations 



Wholesale Milliners 
17 St. Helen St. Montreal 

Brantford Felt 
Novelty Co. 

Brantford, - Canada 

Manufacturers of 

High Grade Pennants, Cushion Tops, 

Felt Emblems, Paper Hats, Advertising 





7.50 PER DOZ. 

There are some terms used in 
the hosiery trade, with which 
salespeople are not often as fam- 
iliar as they should be. The fol- 
lowing are a few of the more im- 

Seamless stockings are knitted 
in tubular form, instead of being 
made up in the piece and then 
sewn together. They are shap- 
ed in the knitting, then stretched 
and pressed. 

Full-fashioned hose are knitted 
flat and shaped by controlling the 
number of stitches in legs, heels, 
instep and toe. They are then 
seamed; the full length of the 

Although most of the big cities 
in South America are generally 
classed with London, Paris and 
New York in the annals of fashion, 
it is interesting to note that there 
are no corset factories in Brazil. 
Instead, corsets are made by hand 
in small shops either for stock or 
to customer's order. Machinery is 
seldom used, although one shop is 
reported to have adopted an eye- 
leting machine. Fairly inexpens- 
ive grades of pink or blue cloth 
are used, the more expensive kinds 
together with lacings, eyelets and 
boning materials being imported 
from abroad. 

The importance of the much- 
maligned skunk as a fur-bearing 
animal is emphasized by the fact 
that its pelt brings to trappers 
on this continent $3,000,000 an- 
nually, the output a year being 
about 2,000,000 skins. So prom- 
ising is the skunk fur industry, 
that within the last few years, 
skunk-breeding has been under- 
taken on scientific principles. It 
was started in 1914 near Chicago 
by the Skunk Development Bur- 
eau, and two years later the stock 
was removed to the Illinois Agri- 
cultural Experiment Station, 
where experiments are still being 
continued. The breeders are work- 
ing to produce a pure black skunk 
since the market demands a black 
pelt or as near .it as possible. 
Skunks thrive best in cool lati- 
tudes, so that Canada offers the 
best conditions for breeding them 
for fur. Feeding is a minor con- 
sideration because they will eat 
most anything. Their chief diet at 
the Illinois Experiment Station 
consisted of mice, sour milk, pea- 
nuts, dried prunes, stale bread and 
table scraps. 


well known to whole of the hosiery man- 
ufacturing trade and in constant touch with 
same is willing to represent merchants desir- 
ous of being kept alive to the latest fashions 
and productions. Kindly write Mr. Henry 
Straw, No. 2. William Road, West BridKford. 
Nntting-ham, England. 

class connection open to represent on com- 
mission Manufacturers of Fleece Underwear 
and Ladies' Artificial Silk Hose. Reply Esox 
980 Dry Goods Review, 143 University Ave., 
Toronto, Ont. 


Plain and Fancy Pearls 

We are making a very 

complete line of all Kinds 

Write for Samples and Prices 


Brantford, Ont. 


Every description of Haberdashery and 

Smallwares for Drapery, Dressmaking, 

Millinery, Fancy Needlework, Outfitting 

and Tailoring Trades. 


8&9 Hamsell Street, London, E.C I. 

Established 1871 




Conveniently and attractively packed; half 
dozen and dozen cartons ; individual transparent 
envelopes; and compressed in individual boxes. 

Write for interesting prices. 
200 Broadway New York City 

Red Seal Zephyr Ginghams 

Everett Classics 
Eden Cloth-Pe^y Cloth-Blankets 

115 Worth St., NY 


"J-C" Ribbons have peculiar 
charm. Widely advertised to 
the consumer under tbelr 
trade-mark names for tba 
protection of the dealer. 
l\«#'\ Ln 1 "TRODSSEAD" 

\fy>\ -»ST-V "LADY FAIR" 

JOHNSON, COWDIN & CO., 40 E. 90th St, 
New York. N.Y. Made In U.S.A. 


In Silver, Gun Metal and Green 
Gold Finish, Metal Frames for 
Ladies' Hand Bags. 

Made in Canada for the Canadian Trade 


0PD B. Rsk&Co. 

Afre Chicago 


New York Salesroom : 
Open Throughout the Year 
411 Fifth Avenue 


137 McGiU Street 

Head Office: 

65 Simcoe St. 

Manufacturers' Agents and Distributor* 
Textile and Smallwares Specialities. 
Wholesale and Manufacturers Only Supplied. 

Yarn Merchants in Glasgow, anxious to open 
up business in Canada, wish to get into touch 
with a reliable firm who deal with Manufac- 
turers in that country. We can supply nil 
kinds of varns, cotton, linen, woollen, jute, 
silk, also artificial silk and shall be glad to 
snte'r into communication with any firm in a 
position to open up a business connection for 
us. In reply, please furnish full particulars 
and trive trade references to J. M. SYMING- 
TON. S5 Miller Street. Glasgow. 

Dry Goods Review 




Men's and Boys' Caps 

Children's Tarns; Boys' Etons 

Also caps made from your 

own materials 

Universal Hat & Cap Co. 

London, Ont. 



Walter Williams & Co. 



Popular Priced 
Flowers and Feathers 

670-674 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY 


The best 36-inch brown 
domestic in America 

Buy it by the bale; 
tell it by the bolt 

Indiana Cotton Mills 


T. H. Birmingham & Co. 

533 College St., TORONTO 

Makers of 

Women's High Grade 
•The Exclusive Neckwear House" 




Blanket Manufacturers 

Teltgnmj and Cablet, "Blankets" Halifax 
Codec, A.B.C. 5th, and Benlley's 


Artificial Flowers. Plants and Vines, 
Window Decorations, Japanese and 
Chinese Decorations, Papier Mache 
Novelties, Electric Lighted Flower 
Bushes. Write for our Catalogue. It's 
free for the asking. 

The Botanical Decorating Company 


208 W. Adams St., Chicago, 111. 


Popular-Priced Ladies' and Misses' 






The Robert Hyslop Co umuip 


February 10th marked the de- 
mise of winter headgear in New 
York and the opening of the straw 
hat season, at the annual Fashion 
Show of the Retail Milliners' As- 
sociation of America. New hat 
creations were presented with an 
eye to the latest hairdressing 
modes. Accordingly the new 
season's hat will become the high, 
fan-shaped coiffure, at the same 
time allowing for the moderate 
amount of waves and curls which 
will lie rather flat to the head. The 
display ushered in the new Spring 
color "Dandelion," a yellow vary- 
ing from a dull sunlight shade to a 
high orange. Perwinkle, brilliant 
red, and combinations of black and 
white were more prominent in the 
straws, while old blue led in the 
homespun and tweed sports mod- 
els. Small close-fitting shapes 
were in evidence, but the n.sw type 
showed a broad rim with width 
running to the sides with a soft 
crown of irregular lines and sim- 
ple trimming. 

Any details of Princess Mary's 
wedding on the 28th of February 
are of particular interest now, and 
nothing so delights the imagina- 
tion as the description of her fin- 
ery. Foremost of course stands 
her wedding robe. The bridal gown 
will be of cloth of silver, veiled 
with an overdress of silver lace, 
and embroidered pearls. The 
court train, four yards long and 
fifty inches wide, has been made 
specially of magnificent silver 
shot duchesse satin .embroidered in 
Indian silver and silk, with a shawl 
collar of real lace cascading down 
the sides. The bridal veil will be 
the one worn by Queen Mary at 
her own wedding. The brides- 
maids' dresses will be of silver tis- 
sue and lace, and they will wear 
wreaths of silver rosebuds. 

Fashioned stockings are knitted 
on a machine which shapes them 
by controlling the needles. They 
have a dart or gusset in the calf 
of the leg. 

(LTljc Canadian |£ai»jj Press (fo., 

Kitchener, Ont. 
Manufacturers of 

"The Canadian Lady dress" 

Ginghams, Crepes, Chambrays, Prints 
Write us for catalogue and Prices 

oring, ready made and millinery in city of 
twenty thousand. 1st class, long established, 
good location for energetic man or woman. 
Write. Box 779, care Dry Goods Review, i43 
University Avenue, Toronto, Ont. 

up-to-date and rightly priced lines for 
Pacific Coast territory. Dresses, Hosiery, 
Gloves, Corsets, Neckwear, Novelties, 

Leather bags. At once. Address manufac- 
turers' Agency, 501 Carter-Cotton Bldg., 

Bias Tapes and 
Mending Yarn 

We specialize in these necessary, 
every-day lines. Write for sam- 
ples and quotations. 




The Toronto Feather & Down Co. Ltd. 

2154-56-58 Dundas St. W., Toronto 



232 McGill St. Montreal 


'Turn* Watte 

into Profit" 
Send for Catalog 

Hamilton, Ont. 


Largest Makers of 

Cotton Flags 

Write for Pricet 


517 Wellington St. West Toronto 


I represent In this country some of the 
most reliable Manufacturers of Hlgh- 
Grade SILKS, in plain, fancy weaves. 

Quality and Novelty Is my motto. 


108 Dandurand Bldg. Montreal 
J. F. Carnall & Co., England 

Men's, Women's & Children's 

Heather Hose 
Complete Stock Carried in Toronto by 

A. M. Duncan 

39 Adelaide St. W.. - TORONTO 

Fred Jones & Company 

Manufacturer* and Importers 

Babies' Hand Crochet Coodt Notion* 

Babies' Hand Knit Goods Novelties 

Art Needlework Materials 

Room 712 Empire Building 


Fraser's Women's Wear Directory, pocket size, 
issued each July, 

Fraser's Men's Wear Directory, pocket size. Is- 
sued each September, and 

Fraser's Textile Products Directory, each Janu- 
ary, a combination of the above two books. 
Subscription in Canada $2.00 a year. Sample 
copy on request. 

Fraser Publishing Company 

H. O. 128 Bleury Street, Montreal 
Br. Office, 122 Wellington W., Toronto. 




Acme Glove Works, Ltd 86-87 

Albion Knitting- Co., Ltd 75 

Allen Bros. Co., Ltd G 

Allen Silk Mills, Ltd 6 

Anderson & Thomson 24 

Atlantic Underwear, Ltd 66 


Baker, Richard L., & Co 7,1-74 

Bastard, J. & W 20 

Bates & Innes, Ltd 71 

Bates & Keir 129 

Belding Corticelli, Ltd Back Cover 

Birmingham, T. H., Co., Ltd 129 

Botanical Decorating Co., Inc., The. 129 

Brantford Felt & Novelty Co 128 

Brock Co., W. R. (Montreal) 27 

Brock Co., W. R. (Toronto) 

Front Cover and 29 

Burritt, A., & Co 66 

Button Sales, Ltd 101 

Butterfield, Fred, & Co., Inc 40 

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson 125 

Canadian Handkerchiefs, Ltd 79 

Canadian Linoleums & Oilcloths, 

Ltd 128 

Canadian Lady Dress Co., Ltd., The 129 

Canadian Leather Products, Ltd.... 85 

Canadian Perfect Garment Co 125 

Carnall, J. F., & Co t 129 

Carr, James, & Sons, Ltd 21 

Chatillon, Mouly, Rousell & Cie 101 

Celtic Knitting Co., Ltd., The 77 

Chassagne, M., Ltd 100 

Clatworthy & Son, Ltd 112 

Climax Baler Co 129 

Chipman Holton Knitting Co., Ltd.. 67 

Circle-Bar Knitting Co., Ltd 70 

Colonial Fastener Co., Ltd 8 

Counter Costume Co 125 

Congoleum Cp. of Canada, Ltd 

Inside Back Cover 

Copp-Clark Co 129 

Craftana 24 


Dale Wax Figure Co., Ltd 110 

Davis, Henry, & Co., Ltd 68 

Delfosse & Co., Ltd 105 

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co., 

Ltd 113 

Dods Knitting Co., The 76 

Dominion Textile Co., Ltd 41 

Dominion Ostrich Feather Co., Ltd. 52 

Dominion Wadding Co 93 

European Novelty Co 101 

Fainer Knitting Mills, Ltd., The. . . . 77 

Fisk, D. B., & Co 52, 128 

Ford Motor Co. of Can., Ltd 28 

Fogelin & Cie 24 

Fraser Publishing Co 129 


Garland, John M., Son & Co., Ltd... 3 

Gagnon, J. H 129 

Gerstenzang Brcs 129 

Gipe-Hazard Store Service Co., Ltd. 105 

Gibson, Wm., & Son, Ltd 18 

Goderich Knittinp; Co., Ltd., The... 77 

Greenshields, Ltd 1 

Godde Albert Bed : n & Cie 40 

Gossard, Can. H. W., Co., The 91 

Goulding, G., & Sens 53 


Hargrave Dress Co 124 

Hawley, A. E., & Co., Ltd 30 

Hawthorn Mills, Ltd 64 

Heron & Taylor 11 

Hollins, Wm., & Co., Ltd 21 

Hodges & Lettau 129 

Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., The 19 

Hodgson, Sumner & Co., Ltd 10 

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd.. . 16 
Hoover Suction Sweeper of Canada, 

Ltd 7 

Hoyle, Joseph, & Son, Ltd 25 

Hyslop Co., Robert, Ltd 129 

Hygienic Fibre Co 128 

Infants' Footwear, Ltd 24 

Indiana Cotton Mills 129 

International Import Co 124 

International Textile Exhibitions, 

Ltd 26 

Island Spinning Co 21 

Jamieson, Alex., & Co 119 

Jauffred & Gariel 18 

Jennens, Welsh & Co.. Ltd 22 

Johnston, Cowdin & Co 128 

Jones & Co., Fred 129 


Kent McClain, Ltd 

Inside Front Cover, 121 

Kenwood Mills, Ltd 65 

King Silk Co., A. S., Ltd 2 

King, John, & Son 16 

Lace Goods Co., Ltd 

Lamson Co., The Ill 

Lavoie Knitting Co 70 

Lazare & Novak 

Leone & Co 128 


McElroy Mfg. Co., Ltd 124 

McMartin, E. W 128 

Mercury Mills, Ltd 78 

Merchants Liquidators. Regd 93 

Miller Mfg. Co., Ltd 124 

Miller Men's Wear, Lt.l 124 

Mitchell Woollen Co 70 

Morton, Robert, & Sons 16 

Monarch Knitting Co., Ltd 55 

Morton Sundour Fabrics, Ltd 4 

Moyer, A. W., & Co 11 

Moulton Mfg. Co., Ltd 100 

Mouterde, Chas 46 

Muser Bros. (Canada), Ltd 9 


Nerlich & Co 98 

Newton, Frederick, & Co 128 

Newton & Carpenter 11 

Palmenberg's Sons, Inc., J. R 112 

Parisian Corset Mfg. Co., Ltd ' 92 

Peerless Underwear Co., Ltd 68 

Phillips, R. A 96 

Phoenix Novelry Co 100 

Priestly Bros 129 

Prime & Rankin, Ltd 118 

Pug-h Specialty Co., Ltd 96 


Racine, Alphonse, Ltd 12 

Rigg Bros., Ltd 23 

Ritchie, H. P., & Co 13 

Ritchie, John E 70 

Rodden, F. A., & Co 124 

Robertson, J. M., Knitting Co 75 

Ross, David W 47 

Sale, Julian, Leather Goods Co., 

Ltd., The 99 

Sandham Co., The 93 

Shuler Button Co 128 

Silks, Ltd 46 

Scott, Peter, & Co., Ltd ' 17 

Smith, Hogg & Co 128 

Starr, C. H 52 

Sterling Dress Co 129 

Stoffell & Co 11 

Thomson Knitting Co., Ltd 69 

Toronto Feather & Down Co., Ltd.. 129 

Turnbull, C, Co., Ltd 72 

Trainor Mfg. Co 124 



Universal Hat & Cap Co 


Viegelmenn, Robert 128 


Walker Bin & Store Fixture Co.... 110 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 5 

Watson, John 22 

Warner Bros. Co.,- The 90 

Western Leather Goods Co., Ltd... 

Whiting & Davis Co 128 

White, Will P., Ltd 128 

Williams, Walter, & Co., Ltd.... 22, 129 

Wilson & Co IS 

Wright Sons, Wm. E., Co 104 

Wrinch, McLaren, Ltd 101 


X'M<sc «««««;:;>:« «««««» «»«««» ««« w «« «» ^ « ««x « n:; ««•«»« 


Try to Tear it 

Silk is the quality test of your 
ribbon stock. 

And the tear test is the proof of 
the quantity of silk in your ribbons 
which makes the quality. 

This test proves whether your ribbons 
are mostly silk or mostly weighting. 

Weighted ribbons tear easily, they rot 
quickly, deteriorate and cause loss. 

Beldings ribbons are strong because 
made with less weighting — they stand 
up to every test of ribbon quality — they 
make friends for your store by making 
satisfied customers. 

Made in Canada, you save heavy import duties 
— make a better profit. 

Plain and fancy weaves in all seasonable shades. 






Vol. XXXIV. No. 3 



MARCH, 1922 

F^ ^iL-:' 


CanrvbTves, Lo»>$tloti\s,CiTcul3T PilUw 

CotUm. Plaifv v HtwstiJcteA Slips, 

SveettA&PfeihV Me»»«tV.UKti Sliet&> 

VicUrria Lswr\vPiauei, Midiy Twills. 

&Ti.(Ui (^nstttrfKtGowRTwiTlsVbilei 


^ TMRce rivers 1 -"" Teo P.Q. 

-=H r-r- 

Sign of 



_ V/kbasso 
Trade TIaTK rveg'i 



The Priceless 

Value of Your 

"Store -Appeal" 

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Begin the creation of a better store 
with one or more "Inter-place-able 
Units" which permit you to build as 
your business grows. Write for the cata- 
logue especially prepared for Dry Goods 
Stores. It will enlighten you on your 
store's possibilities. 

The general attractiveness and selling 
appeal of your store as a whole, will 
determine your volume of spontaneous 
sales — the articles people leave your store 
with that they had no intention of buying 
on entering. Strive to have your store 
make buying an irresistible pleasure, as 
well as a necessity, and you will reap re- 
turns in far greater abundance than ever 

Antiquated fixtures and obsolete show- 
cases that outgrew their real usefulness 
many years ago, are clouds that obscure 
the real worth of your store, handicap 
your salespeople, and keep sales at the 

Kent-McClain Show-cases and Store-equip- 
ment make every possible use of your store's 
"display possibilities," enhance the quality of 
your offerings; assist, not impede your sales- 
people; and increase sales volume and profit 
to the' maximum. 

(Joronto ShowCase Co) Limited 





Your Mail Orders 

deserve the very best attention. The same prompt and 
courteous service rendered through our salesmen, or to 
the buyer who visits our warehouse, is available to every 
merchant through our mail order department. 

We specialize in handling orders sent in by mail. Our 
splendid facilities for handling this business assure you 
that your order will be promptly looked after, and will 
receive the same careful attention that your personal 
supervision would ensure. 

Mail your order to — 


"The Hub of the Dry Goods trade in Canada" 

Salesrooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific 


Hum ii 1 1 1 ii i it i in i it j i it i iiiiiiiiiin iirniiiif im i tti i in i tin iiittiii iiitni imii 




l d 





n i 

A Chinese Flapper 

Georgette Canton Crepe 

Taffeta Duchesse Paillette 

Crepe Charmeuse 



in great variety for 


Crepe de Chine, 
Satins Habutai, 

Crepe Satin 


& &. Etng g>tlk Company 


Zurich, Switzerland 
Lyons, France 

"ttye g>tlfe J|ouse of Canaba" 

59-61 Wellington St. West, Toronto 

Foreign Offices: 

Yokohama, Japan 
Chefoo, China 

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Cheer Up Your Stock for Easter ! 

For immediate delivery, we offer you the newest and 
brightest designs and colorings in the following: — 





Costume Ducks & Drills, 

Cotton Crepes and Seer- 

Plain and Fancy Repscords suckers, 



Fancy or Plain Colored Skirtings. The latest shades in 
Sport Flannels. A special range of small designs in the 
New Cretonne Dress Material. 

John M. Garland, Son 
& Co., Ltd. 



Wholesale Dry Goods 









For Summer Selling 


An European Novelty 

Cretonne Effects on Dress Materials 


Printed, Embroidered 
Rice Crepe 
Sheenore, Silk Stripe 

Novelty Organdies 
Printed Foulards 
Ginghams & Chambrays 

buy merchandise from our 


A.C. — Cotton Staples 

D. — Dress Goods and Silks 

F. — Fancy Goods 

H. — Hosiery 

L. — Linens, Handkerchiefs 

M. — Laces, Ribbons, House Fur- 

R. — Ready-to-Wear 
S. — Smallwares 
U. — Underwear 
W. — Woollens 


83-91 St. Paul St., West 

21 St. Sulpice St. 

84-92 LeRoyer St. 

Sample Rooms : 

7 Charest St., QUEBEC Windsor Hotel, OTTAWA 

Carlaw Bldg., 28-30 Wellington St. West, TORONTO 

Can. Bank of Commerce Bldg., THREE RIVERS New Sherbrooke House, SHERBROOKE 

Empire Bldg., HAMILTON Grigg House, LONDON 

503 Mercantile Bldg., VANCOUVER 50 Bon Accord St., MONCTON, N.B. 

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 : 1 1 1 1 1 in 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 11 1 1:1 1 11 11 1 111 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 in 1 1 in 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 












According to the old adage, 


If users of wrapping paper and paper bags always insist on 
being supplied with 


many dollars a year can be saved, for the simple reason that 
it gives fifty per cent, more service than wrapping papers of 
an inferior grade and consequently costs less. 

Any paper wholesaler will Prove the truth of this statement 
by a practical demonstration. It is unrivalled as a paper 
for the manufacture of envelopes, notion bags and paper con- 
tainers of all descriptions. 

Wayagamack Pure Kraft Which Means 

Strength and Security 

can be obtained from all paper wholesalers from Halifax to 


For Spring 

OUR new, two-tone silk, heather mixture 
Winsome Maid Hosiery is absolutely 
the correct thing to wear with the fash- 
ionable homespuns. We have recently 
added several new, attractive color com- 
binations to this line, which is sure to be 
one of the most profitable for dealers to 
feature this season. 

Winsome Maid pure silk lines are 
unusually attractive this Spring. 
They come in a wide variety of 
lovely colors and smart weaves. 

Write for Prices. 

Allen Silk Mills Limited 



The Finest Trade buys " Winsome Maid " 




easonable Lines 


A. B. C. Hosiery 

These are profitable lines for Spring selling — 

three-quarter length heather mixture sock with roll 
top — for children. 

heather mixture in regular lengths 1 and 1 rib — 
for children. 

pure silk 1 and 1 rib (beautiful quality), and A.B.C. 
silk and wool mixture, 1 and 1 rib — for children, 
silk and wool mixtures, many combinations of col- 
ors — for men and women. 

cashmere, plain weave, new heather mixtures for 
Spring — for men and women. 

All seamless weave, reinforced heels and toes. 

B. C. 

B. C. 

B. C. 

B. C. 

B. C. 

Allen Bros. Co., Limited 


A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee 



Different and Exclusive 

A clever re- production of composition dotted voile, with all its 
attractiveness plus this advantage; easily ironed, no spots to 
break- 60 cents. Colors: Black, Brown, Navy and Copen. 


A silk an d cotton mixture, small designs, light colorings. 
Very new and attractive. Worth inspection. 

Full Line of 

Stoffel s Organdy and Dotted Swiss 

jDroft us a line to make sure of seeing this Range. 

Buy at Headquarters 


84-86 Wellington Street West 



Spring Time is Veil Time 

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••• •«* *-• 

Here are some strong numbers. 

41517 Dotted Veiling 

17597- $9.00 Doz. 
Black, Brown, Navy. 

17603 — $15.00 Doz. 
Black, Brown, Navy. 


17598- $10.80 Doz. 

Black, Brown, Navy. 

6469 - $24.00 Doz. 

Black-White, Black-Henna, 


41550 - $15.00 Doz. 

Black, Brown, Navy. 

6457 — $24.00 Doz. 

Black-White, Black-Henna, 


1 hese are winners in any company 

'Mona Lisa Veil 

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ynamo manne 

\v e want to Serve You 


84-86 Wellington Street West - - Toronto 













_ v - ■ - •■ - 

It's all in 
the Spring 

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: | RUST $ 

;♦ ♦ 



Zi£ Hi*...,-. _-i ■ - ■ * 

Strong — 
Made of 

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper 

Colonial Maid 

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners 

Made in 

D j. ■ • MADE 




will not 

WHITE AND BLACK .-. ,\ SIZES: 00-0-1 

To he had of all leading wholesalers. 

Manufactured by 

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited 

Montreal, Que. 





The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics in 


Fine Muslins 








The finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie or Dotted Swiss 


To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only 


Sole Agents for Canada 

77 York Street, 235 Coristine Bldg., 

20 St. Nicholas Street, 
Montreal, Que. 

Tel. Adel. 2253 Tel. Main 6248 



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*Tne Handkerchief House of Canada 

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The Above Represents No. 50 Assortment 15 Patterns 1.67 1/2 per doz. 

The many compliments we receive from our customers and the trade generally all 
over Canada spur us on to make more strenuous efforts than ever before, because 
we intend to maintain our position in this department of